muggs Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Won't the springs strip any paint off the tubes? Or will it be hidden? Looking good - a very inspiring project (as are all of yours!) I look forward to continuing to enjoy this throughout the coming year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 To answer Togusa-san's question straight forward in a prosaic manner as apposed to the inferred jocular vein of his(?) Query; a generalized answer would be Evergreen Styrene Products and Ambroid Plastic Cement primarily and the steps employed clearly delineated in the previous pages of posts. I can coach you on the details but clearly you would have to ask specifics and have photos of your work performed thus far so I would know where your difficulty lies. Muggs, the entire mechanism lies in the well on the underside of the Pod completely hidden from view until the pod is deployed and elevated. Once the carapace is detailed and the pods recesses finished with 40K esoterica I'm hoping the mechanism won't show that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 The Exterior Surface of the Carapace: Up until now all that I have represented of the carapace is the inner surface, the exterior surface has yet to be applied. In the four projections presented below we see the APOC pod resting retracted in it's niche on the right shoulder of the Reaver. http://i.imgur.com/e8fbAMf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/e8fbAMfl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/g8gMaPm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/g8gMaPml.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9Om6g4w.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9Om6g4wl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/PKMjKKN.jpg http://i.imgur.com/PKMjKKNl.jpg The APOC missile array on the Praetor tank has only the angled side of the array exposed above its well and I think the same should show above the top surface skin of the Reaver Carapace. Now that I have established the lateral orientation of the pod I can build up the interior bracing for the upper surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Studio Silvernale Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 To answer Togusa-san's question straight forward in a prosaic manner as apposed to the inferred jocular vein of his(?) Query; a generalized answer would be Evergreen Styrene Products and Ambroid Plastic Cement primarily and the steps employed clearly delineated in the previous pages of posts. I can coach you on the details but clearly you would have to ask specifics and have photos of your work performed thus far so I would know where your difficulty lies. I guess I set myself up for that one. What sizes of tubes and thicknesses of the plasticard did you use? What are the overall dimensions of the launchers and the individual tubes? What are you using for the missiles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 I used 2,0 MM styrene for the outer armour and 1,0 MM to frame the tubes. The tubes themselves are 6.3 MM outside diameter but need only be about a centimeter long as the rest of the box is empty. The overall length including diagonals is 8,5 CM and the overall width is 42.5 MM funny how that worked out 2:1 because I didn't plan or measure the length or width until just now. You needn't follow my measurement precisely, I just guessed at the size and ratio of the Praetor Tank array; make yours what ever size fits your model. I would consider making your armour appreciably heavier than shown in your Baneblade scratchbuilt photo because while the shape and proportions are good the armour looked a bit thin but that's just to my taste. As for the missiles I probably will file the nose cones by hand, they needn't be more than 7,0 MM in length 'cause all that will be seen is the tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Side by Side Comparison: Here we have a side by side comparison of the hull and carapace of the Mars vis a vis Lucius configuration. (As I perceive it anyway.) It is with a great deal of relief that I find I haven't exceeded to any great degree the overall height of the Lucius superstructure when compared to the Mars. Without the finishing detail my rocket pods seem a bit small compared to the massive Mars array even thought the rocket diameter is the same. Once the upper skin is applied I'm hoping this perception will be corrected. http://i.imgur.com/htk2kP8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/htk2kP8l.jpg Bulk-wise the Lucius at this point has a leaner businesslike appearance. http://i.imgur.com/gROkqXG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gROkqXGl.jpg With the center APOC in the stowed position it has the clean low front elevation I was hoping for. http://i.imgur.com/VeacuHn.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VeacuHnl.jpg View from above seems okay as well. http://i.imgur.com/jUOAjM3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jUOAjM3l.jpg This is the view I am most concerned about. I need to fair the shoulder carapace into the generators and still not appear clumsy in the rear carapace skirting. I also had this trouble with my Warlord where the rear view looked too blocky squared off straight. At that instance I angled the rear lower edge of the skirting up toward the outboard edge of the skirting which gave a better appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Studio Silvernale Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I used 2,0 MM styrene for the outer armour and 1,0 MM to frame the tubes. The tubes themselves are 6.3 MM outside diameter but need only be about a centimeter long as the rest of the box is empty. The overall length including diagonals is 8,5 CM and the overall width is 42.5 MM funny how that worked out 2:1 because I didn't plan or measure the length or width until just now. You needn't follow my measurement precisely, I just guessed at the size and ratio of the Praetor Tank array; make yours what ever size fits your model. I would consider making your armour appreciably heavier than shown in your Baneblade scratchbuilt photo because while the shape and proportions are good the armour looked a bit thin but that's just to my taste. As for the missiles I probably will file the nose cones by hand, they needn't be more than 7,0 MM in length 'cause all that will be seen is the tips. Yeah my baneblade was just 1mm structure with 0.5mm details (my first attempt at it) and any superheavy stuff I build hereafter will be considerably bulked up. The baneblade and stormsword I am so careful picking up because I don't want to crush the structure in. On a side note, I have seen some plasticard structures reinforced with Lego blocks so I may try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 Time to do a Little Dressing; I spent a good portion of my modeling time today painting Tyranids but I also managed to put some detail on the flimsy looking lift platform under the Pod. Yeah I know it interferes with the rocket tubes but with the typical cursory glance no one will notice that if not pointed out and the platform looks better for it. It took a bit of time to make the first girder but with a template the rest are produced rapidly. http://i.imgur.com/HvUiDyl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HvUiDyll.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Carapace Shoulder Structures: Finally figured out how to set the shoulder carapace upper surface in relation to the shoulder pods. There will be a slight taper on the leading edge of the shoulder and a small skirt similar to the Warhound for the sake of titan pattern continuity much as the Mars Reaver resembles the Mars Warhound. What also has to be taken into account is the Reaver resemblance to my Lucius Warlord But not so much given the disparity of their respective sizes. http://i.imgur.com/MVx2lhj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MVx2lhjl.jpg Back to the carapace, the taper will carry into the extreme side of the shoulder where the pod well will be surrounded by a sloping edge here shown as over built with 2,0 MM styrene strips which will be sanded down to the proper height front side and rear. A bit of a word of caution if anyone is intending to duplicate this work, the FW Mars Reaver does not sit level on a flat surface; note on the front view with out shimming there is an almost 5° discrepancy from level built into the FW model This wouldn't be noticed ordinarily if the model has a dynamic pose but is a problem for this conversion as the wings gotta match. http://i.imgur.com/vyyquNM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vyyquNMl.jpg They match pretty good TG. Nothing remarkable with the top and side view so far but later fairing the carapace into the generators should prove interesting. http://i.imgur.com/DYK4Aj3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/DYK4Aj3l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v5u6P9Z.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v5u6P9Zl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Set Up For a Fall: I hate when things go so well because I'm setting myself up for a fall of Class 5 Kaiju proportions............... But I had to take pictures of this mornings work because everything fitted just perfectly. http://i.imgur.com/dS8GJR4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dS8GJR4l.jpg You know when you cut a piece of plastic with angles and a specific length and get ready to cut the mirror piece for the other side and you try the piece you just cut to see how much you have to adjust the mirror piece to make it fit............... and you find it fits perfectly on both sides. Then you think that much overused G. Lucas phrase in 'Star Wars,' "I got a bad feeling about this." Anyway this is an excuse to show the underside work before I box it in http://i.imgur.com/otZqLpJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/otZqLpJl.jpg As I described the other day I decided to angle the rear skirt of the carapace armour because I think it looks better but I can't drop the edge too low because it might interfere with the swing of the arm weapons. http://i.imgur.com/l5O4FNL.jpg http://i.imgur.com/l5O4FNLl.jpg This rear quarter view shows the shape of the inner skin and gives an inkling of the exterior carapace shape to come............ http://i.imgur.com/0wG2a4z.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0wG2a4zl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Fantastic stuff as always. Keep the faith I'm sure it'll all go together just fibe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Thanks, Repetition is the Soul of Ennui: Time to play catch up; I gotten so far ahead of the other Reaver I need to catch it up. Man I hate to repeat work but every thing can serve a good purpose in that of course there is a better way to assemble the shoulder structure and as usual for me I did it bass ackwards the first time so profiting from my original effort this time the work should line up perfectly with out the previous hassles I experienced. http://i.imgur.com/8F5Bus1.jpg http://i.imgur.com/8F5Bus1l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hkHC7Ai.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hkHC7Ail.jpg Wanna bet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Cannot wait to see these pair completed. Where are the war hounds to make this a proper Titan maniple? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Alas I went to my personal "content" file to see if I ever posted a scratchbuilt Warhound thread on this forum and found that I did: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283244-blackadders-lucius-pattern-warhound-lucie/ Blackadder, on 13 Nov 2013 - 11:33, said: Its come to my attention That I have never posted a WIP thread for my Lucius Pattern Warhound. Since the Model was completed years ago This is technically not a WIP but more of a building log of a finished work. Since I am totally incapacitated regarding cutting and fabricating plasticard components for the next four weeks I feel this will serve to occupy my time to keep me from going stir-crazy. The following scratch-built model was my first attempt at a relatively accurate Lucius Warhound that midway in the construction I dubbed "Lucie". The posts I shall be making were from the real-time construction log I did on another forum. Just so you know that the model is more or less completed and you won't be following an overly ambitious "Dead End Thread" here is an image of the completed model as she is today more or less as even this image was taken three years ago and Lucie has seen a few modifications since then: http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2010/12/19/eb0f706de39f9e32daae820cccd766b0_6825.jpg In Flash http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2010/12/19/92ca6e6484630b4b2a03738f33977560_6825.jpg and natural indoor lighting. But due to a lack of interest I allowed the thread to stagnate. There are full threads featuring the entire build of "Lucie" (Short for 'Lucius' as in Pattern Warhound BTW)on other forums DAKKADAKKA for one; I could resume the thread in answer to replies on it from interested parties. Since Lucie was completed I have also aquired a genuine FW Wolf Warhound which is slightly less robust therefore when it is assembled it will be designated a Mark I and Lucie will be designated a Mark II Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 That's great bud. Excellent work. So the forgeworld war hound is more fragile? Do you ever get the chance to field them in battle? Warlord next then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Warlord, the Warlord Luteus Vexant is finished: well except for the interior and the electronics................ Take your comments to the general thread looking forward to hearing your opinion. http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/248599-blackadders-warlord-wip/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Apoc Superstructure Continues: A bit of an update on the progress of the Reaver superstructure showing the center pod mount: http://i.imgur.com/0XiJg5G.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0XiJg5Gl.jpg then with the pod in place stowed: http://i.imgur.com/g7r6NUh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/g7r6NUhl.jpg and raised position: http://i.imgur.com/f3Xni6B.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f3Xni6Bl.jpg All of it seems relatively neat and compact and the arrangement doesn't defy credibility yet. I'd like to take the time to assemble a set of legs just to see how it looks with the legs attached because my big concern now is the top hamper may be ungainly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Looking forward to seeing the legs. That apoc launcher reminds me of the Praetor/Crassus heavy tank from FW. Intentional? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Totally intentional that's what I modeled them after. actually if I had seen this version I would have used this for the center pod instead: http://www.dw.su/uploads/production/praetor-armoured-assault-launcher_19981_1_5.jpg But no, that way madness lies................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Impasse: I have reached a minor impasse regarding how to proceed with where the rear of the carapace intersects with the void generator housings. Here you see the two hulls in pretty much the same state of completion note the 1/2 pound weights in the generator housings. http://i.imgur.com/ERoJsMe.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ERoJsMel.jpg The clean crisp lines of the structure excepting the intersection seems to fill the requirements of a Lucius design so aside from minor alterations this will be the look of the hull with which I shall be moving forward. http://i.imgur.com/V546qwp.jpg http://i.imgur.com/V546qwpl.jpg Filing down the pod wells fludh with the inner and outer edge of the shoulders really brought the design home; pity I did not realize that weeks ago. Thats why the FW designer command the big bucks. http://i.imgur.com/faH2YZH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/faH2YZHl.jpg The ceiling panels of the shoulders are installed and ready for thickening the armour and the detail. http://i.imgur.com/9LRUU7f.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9LRUU7fl.jpg I still need to give some thought to how the hood overhang and head will look. http://i.imgur.com/NMFyHjQ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NMFyHjQl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Keep up the amazing work my friend, Hope you manage to get the void generators sorted. I am in awe of the amount of work you achieve. I struggle to get my regular marines painted, let alone something of this scale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 The void generators will work themselves out, I just have to think on it for a bit, I just hit on how to revamp of the pod wells yesterday after bashing my head against the problem........ X Marks the Spot: I wouldn't be the 'Blackadder' if I didn't try to make something more of the FW Reaver than is the usual static presentation. It has been in my mind to try to make this model pose-able as in the vein of my scratchbuilt titans. Starting with the simplest axis namely the waist to hip block joint I drilled a 1/8th inch pivot hole through the entire assembly. http://i.imgur.com/nlUa2Cv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nlUa2Cvl.jpg With unerring good luck I managed to hit the exit cross dead center (not bad for not having a drill press) I then proceeded to drill the rest of the shafts with dumb luck accuracy as well as witnessed by the bit protruding for the center hole of the pelvic block; Whew! http://i.imgur.com/kwBnYhd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kwBnYhdl.jpg I have to admit I had a good deal of trepidation attempting this but Dame Fortune smiled on me yet again. Again I caution that this is better to be accomplished with a 'drill press.' Now what remains to be done is tap an 8-32 (machine screw) thread through the three pieces to join them temporarily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Waist and Pelvic Block Assembly: After the holes are drilled threads were tapped into the two lower pieces and a slightly enlarged hole was reamed into the waist block which later on will be enlarged further so the model can be bent at the waist. http://i.imgur.com/TsTvsXE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TsTvsXEl.jpg Next, attaching the upper legs................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodEmperorOfMankind Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 You've some serious balls to attempt all this on such an expensive model my friend! Cannot wait to see more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks, although nothing I've done so far cannot be undone. all the screws and tapped holes are hidden in the structure and even if the articulation doesn't pan out the screws and threaded studs will serve to make the static model stronger and easily disassembled if needs be. I hate gluing and love screwing... Hip Joints: No not college hangouts but its time to temporarily mount the hip joints and for these static tests I'm going to adopt the classic Reaver pose 'legs spraddled' funny I've never seen a Reaver posed 'stepping out' although there is the flexibility to display it in that pose. http://i.imgur.com/mXLVMl2.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mXLVMl2l.jpg I'm using wood screws to attach the joints as I am not sure of the degree the legs can be spread. The feet must contact the floor flatly and the index pins seem a bit small in diameter. http://i.imgur.com/32QtYhc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/32QtYhcl.jpg Okay definitely the joints can be mount spread too far not a problem I'll just drill deeper holes and thread them for the static test pose: http://i.imgur.com/xEb1ReO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/xEb1ReOl.jpg Meanwhile since I've come this far I might as well check out the top hamper scale in relation to the legs: http://i.imgur.com/uFuhWgp.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uFuhWgpl.jpg It doesn't look bad.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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