moivin Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you The White Templars Tactical Centurion Squad.....Hammerstorm. "As a Space Marine of the White Templars cycles through the various companies of the chapter he will re-visit his training in the Centurion Battlesuit twice, first when moving through the Devastator Company and then again during deployment in the Assault Company. After his second rotation he is given the choice of continuing into the ranks of the Tactical Squads in the remaining companies or to stay attached to a small group of elite Centurion drivers known as Tactical Centurion units. Having Been immersed in both the ranged and close combat warfare doctrines within the Assault and Devastator companies the Marine will fully devote his skills to mastering and perfecting the art of every form of warfare from within the armoured shell of a Centurion Warsuit. Each Marine will stay with the suit he trained in and will be tasked with its maintanance and repair under the supervision of a dedicated Techmarine. This close tie with the Adeptus Mechanicus often breeds new and quite individual suits of armour, each tailored to suit each individuals style of attack and defense. Being that these suits are so unique to each of their pilots they will stay with the marine even after their death, being sealed inside the suit and left to the stars is a White Templar Centurion commanders final wish." Ok, crappy fluff dealt with, here they are!! http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140106-WA0000_zpsb9f44f89.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140106-WA0002_zps8547ff13.jpg And some WIP shots of the 3rd guy, sorry I skipped a load but i basically cranked out the final bits on this guy in one sitting! http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140105-WA0004_zps55dd8a0d.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140105-WA0002_zps2792f32a.jpg And Finished http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140106_111806_zps3aa9d74b.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140106_111901_zps14078231.jpg So there is a little filling and polishing to do on these guys but this is the look I have been going for from the start, and I think the fluff I've come up with rightly explains why they look the way they do and why the are armed the way they are. I hope to get some paint on them by the end of the week, by which time I will be deep in the belly of my next project. With the conversion of these guys complete it seems only fit to change the name of the thread so keep following for more White Templar updates!! Below is a taster of what I have in the pipeline for the foreseeable future..... A Kitbashed Techmarine to run around with these guys http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140104-WA0004_zpsb67e98a6.jpg And a whole heap of vanguard. http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/IMG-20140104-WA0000_zps81c316ea.jpg In the box still is my new land speeder storm + scouts which will be converted to not look ridiculous on normal bases. C&C still advocated by the FDA and the NHS and newly endorsed by the NSA!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Great job on the Cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxyogi Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 With Deathspeccy on that!! Nice work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Christopher Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 To start with something: great conversions. The final result is great. And I just want to ask this: are your White Templars related in any way to Black Templars? Would you happen to use BT rules for your army? (if it's a dumb question, or there's an answer to it somewhere and I missed it then sorry! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infyrana Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Looking great ! It looks as though you lowered the shied on the forearm a bit, with the shoulder guards now added it fits very well. Lovin' that hammer pose - smashing down onto a target blocked by the shield - totally approved. Finished off by a slung grav gun... Excellent conversions! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Hey Guys, Thanks for all the great feedback, I always worry about going a little too mental with my conversions so I'm glad you all share my enthusiasm :-) @Brother Christopher, when I was younger and starting my marines I had always liked the imagery and attitude of the Templars, the crusade based fighting mainly, however I never liked the rules that much. I also really liked the look of the White Scars so I decided to create myself an army combining the look of both. The trouble there was painting a white army, I think I painted a Predator and 10 Marines and decided it was a terrible idea so I wrote into my fluff a massacre on armageddon meaning on their various crusades the White Templars get some help from various chapters they meet on their travels. To whit I've got a Salamanders Whirlwind painted, A squad of Blood Raven Assault Marines and Crimson Fist Devestators. I have now nailed my white paintjob so I will try to get a fully white army painted by they end of the year. With regards to chapter rules I've never really settled on one, i guess in my fluff the army is from an Imperial Fist line however I enjoy playing all of the different chapters way too much, I've got converted proxy models for Vulcan, Kantor, Lysander and Calgar so I can field pretty much any army I like! @Infyrana I did take the shield off and curve it a little for a better fit, it had to drop in the end also because the shoulder pad wouldn't fit in its original position! Thanks again brothers, really appreciate the feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 So I went ahead and undercoated my centurions today and was gifted with one of the worst white spray jobs if my life, it came out so thick and has cracked like a mother over all the flat surfaces. it was a new can and I shook the thing for 5 bloody minutes! My painting method does include quite a heavy wash and drybrush so hopefully that will cover up a few evils.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Considering how much effort you have put into the centurions, I would propose that you dunk them in Simple Green and do a restart on the base coat. I think you've created too significant an image to let something like a crappy base coat to spoil. If you are on your own schedule, stop, strip and spray*. You'll be much happier at the end of this work if you don't have to make excuses about the paint. Do them right, you've earned this. * Not you, the centurions silly ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Nothing like dettol will melt superglue or greenstuff will it? I've never stripped plastic models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helterskelter Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Fairy power spray does the ticket, old toothbrush too, spray 'em leave the models 20 mins, scrubadubdub, relatively clean stripped minis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Ok....I'll be gentle with them, those wires in the back are ridiculously unstable. Thanks for the tips guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infyrana Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Dettol will make your miniatures smell, a lot, and I believe it softens them up from my own experiences. I'm sure it will also disturb the integrity of the glue bonding, so it's not as simple as dipping and going. Last time I used that stuff, I dipped, stayed dipped for over 48 hours, finally able to strip them, and voila. But I wouldn't do it again if I had the choice, I would test try other approaches like the fairy power spray. helterskelter - Speaking of which - can you link or provide an image with which spray to get please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I always use Simple Green. Very forgiving and you can leave the models in there forever without them coming to harm. It will attack glue, so in your case (if you go this route), I think a few hour soak will show you how much work you have ahead of you. The upside is that you just primed them, that seems to come off easier than stuff that's been on there for ages. I had one land raider reclamation project from eBay that was base coated in black, then red (BAs I'm guessing), then white (scars), then gold (GKs) and finally over coated with flat black and passed off as Tempalrs. Now that was a thrill, but eventually it all came off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Christopher Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I'll put my 2 pence, too. I can recommend DOT 3 (or 4) break fluid. It's very cheap and removes paint decently. It doesn't affect green stuff too. You can bathe your models for days and nothing happens (I once left mine for 2 months!), most paint comes off like a snakes skin after 3-4 hours. The rest comes off after a bit of scrubbing. I imagine it works the same way as Simple Green, but I'm not sure exactly what it is and couldn't find an equivalent of it that I was sure of in Poland. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helterskelter Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Dettol will make your miniatures smell, a lot, and I believe it softens them up from my own experiences. I'm sure it will also disturb the integrity of the glue bonding, so it's not as simple as dipping and going. Last time I used that stuff, I dipped, stayed dipped for over 48 hours, finally able to strip them, and voila. But I wouldn't do it again if I had the choice, I would test try other approaches like the fairy power spray. helterskelter - Speaking of which - can you link or provide an image with which spray to get please? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fairy+power+spray&client=tablet-android-samsung&hl=en-GB&source=android-browser-suggest&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ZIXMUp-2Damq0QXIs4DgBg&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=600&bih=1024 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Also, this is just a suggestion and probably seems obvious, but whenever you're doing something for the first time, do one figure first and evaluate the results. Don't take a chance on messing up the whole project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Thanks again for all the input guys, I've got a few primed plastic models knocking about that i don't mind playing with first to see what works, if I can get the majority of the paint off ill be happy, I can cover up the stuff hidden behind arms or in crevices quite easily. Ill let you all know how I get on, going to do some test pieces tomorrow @Honda It being a new can and all I totally didn't expect it to go south like it did, normally I would be very careful with an older can of spray with special projects. Scared to spray anything else with this can now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy Matt Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I've wanted to see Centurions with proper melee weapons since the models first came out so these are pretty exciting. Your conversions are very cool. I'm looking forward to seeing them painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infyrana Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 As for the can, try testing the difference in cold and warm temps, especially considering the weather at the moment. Keep it at a good positive room temperature too, and make sure when you do spray, you don't let the environment of the can, or the models drying, change in temperature too much. Maybe a shed with a portable heater etc, might be an idea :) GL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 ok, I may have got somewhere with my cents, using various cleaners I see to have taken the worst of the surface paint off still leaving the undercoat mostly intact. I'll update you guys once I begin my painting process, I'll try to keep up regular updates so you can see how I achieve my effects. So My question to you today is why is my white spray screwing up so bad. I tried undercoating my techmarine today and below are the results. I kept the can at room temperature, shook for a full 5 minutes beforehand and also even sprayed the model indoors so there wasn't a huge temperature difference or particularly fast drying on the undercoat. http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140113_104744_zps5c21400b.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140113_104800_zps5cec6ae4.jpg So I hope you can see what looks like little oil/water droplets in paint on the scabbard and generally all over, what could be causing this? is it a dud can of spray? As I said before, brand new can, optimal conditions and this keeps happening, I've sprayed 100's of minis in the past (been collecting since i was 13) so it shouldn't be down to technique. Just so you know I managed to save this model from disaster, I got him under a hot tap immediately with a toothbrush and some soap and got it all off, with the added bonus of dragging some of the old paint with it :-) Anyway, Updates tomorrow on 1st stages of paint on the cents and if you are lucky some updates on my vanguard, depends how much time I get before work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infyrana Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Ouch, that really was a sucky can... I can only hope you were saved from worse by having held the can a good distance away from the model to provide a dust coating? That can is either a very bad example, or just wow, something went very unlucky. Definitely test the can on something thoroughly before hand in the future now! Glad you managed to get it off straight away and able to try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 yeah, like I said, no technique problems, held the can a good foot away, just seems to be really gluey and horrible, I'll try discharging a load of the can and see if it makes any difference. I did have a question about preferences on the Centurions. I've come to loathe painting Templar symbols freehand, I know my units should have markings but I just hate it, would hazard stripes look silly over a whole shoulder pad? I managed quite a good faded look to them on my Lysander conversion so it certainly wouldn't be bright glaring yellow, just wanted to put it out there. weathering is as such, probably not as extreme, like down to the metal, but something like this. http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20130720_173728_zpsed2009e2.jpg I pick out accents like purity seals, lenses and anything like the ridges on a plasma gun out in bright green if that makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 OK, first phase of painting on my cents this morning. I started with a decent drybrush of white to start to fill in the texture from the spray paint and then to do some block base colours. http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_091447_zpsbc044a75.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_091451_zps49697e3a.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_091458_zps2d46f559.jpg Then its as simple as a fairly heavy wash with Nuln oil, What follows from this will be a few coats of thinned down white to help smooth out the armour, leaving the recesses for a nice shade and to keep them looking kinda dirty. Then its on to the battle damage, details and faces. http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_092551_zpscec391bb.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_092557_zps0cdccc77.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20140114_092601_zps0ffc6966.jpg As you can probably see the double handed guy got the worst of it from the spray can so hopefully some clever painting can remedy that, the tin bitz will be worked up to a nearly golden/brass colour and will have some verdigris wash thrown over it. I've had this as a theme running through a few of my characters recently and I quite like it against the white. The final effect should look like the hammers on my Calgar conversion below.... http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20121029_102135_zpse7273fab.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20121029_102155_zpsd2f3685d.jpg http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac106/dean_mervin/20121029_102223_zps7bb91411.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Dual Hammers that looks cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moivin Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Cheers man, he always gets a lot of attention when I pull him out in stores, my only regret is using the metal Sicarius head, the metal got a bit battered in my bits box and he looks like he's got a seriously broken nose :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.