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Imperial Fists model - now with added Deathguard


chaplain mortis

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Hey again guys!

 

Once again thanks for you kind comments!

 

@Armond..the brass is very simple to achieve..its a coat of vallejo model air bright brass, followed by a wash of agrax earthshade, heavy round rivets, then simply pick out the rivets and sharp/raised edges in the original bright brass..thats it

 

@Steelpaladin..was it the above metal recipe you wanted or the white armour? As regards to the metal trim color on the model, I was trying to match the metal to the picture of worldeater termie in the forgeworld book..thought I nailed it ( damn colour blindness)..

 

@koriel..cheers for your comments, and yes its my bad photography skills that is making the legs look darker

 

@daemonclaw..I will take what I can get frm you haha..thanks for the reply

 

@niteowl and Infyrana..im pretty new to weathering myself, most of what I know comes frm watching youtubers and just having a bash on bits of space marines I had lying around..

The techniques I have used on these models are "sponging" and weathering powders. .for sponging simply take a thumbnail sized piece of sponge and get a little bit of paint on it, then dab the sponge on a bit of kitchen roll to take the excess paint off, then lightly "jab" at the model concentrating on the hard edges first then work inwards..

 

With the powders..take a small drybrush and a very small amount of powder and simply brush it on lightly, using small amounts allows you to build up the colour fade to what you want to achieve. .

Got some pics of the products I use to hopefully help..

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140206_141431.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140206_181413.jpg

 

Thanks again guys

@

"Eh, you want some?  ...Bolter of Fist... your choice.. if you feel lucky...!"

 

Love it, everywhere where you have weathered that marine looks perfect !  It really shines a complete different spectrum wherever you've chosen not to weather - chest, backpack - if I had your skills I would do the slightest tiny bit of weathering just on these untouched parts to blend them in very softly.

 

Thank you for the quickfire guide, that will be a great help when I finally get around to painting white for the first time with my DG :)

Thanks again guys,

Think I will be ordering a load of mk4 marines now..and chainaxes..and Khârn haha

 

Glad some of you liked the 1920's fisticuffs pose of the worldeater haha, :-D

 

Thanks alot for the comments once again

Thanks for your comments brother molokai and nebuchandnezzar..appreciated:-)

 

One last thing before this thread can die its death, I have had a few pm's asking for tips or suggestions on painting deathguard white using techniques like on the above imperial fist and world eater. .

So with my last spare terminator and some free time I thought I would have a go to better answer there questions

 

Here he is..quite rushed and once again not a fully painted mini

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_084610.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_084457.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_084444.jpg

 

Think he looks suitably deathguard!

I did try and photo this as I did each stage so if enough interest I could do a simple stage by stage for this termie

 

Once again guys thanks for taking the time to look

Once again you prove your weathering techniques are simply awesome.

 

A cracking model, suitably battle dirty for his efforts, you could easily have gone overboard considering he is death guard.  I'm not so sure if the green fits with your weathered look, under the lighting it looks very vibrant - but I have seen so many green variations, I am sure there is a different personal green for every person, myself included!  I'm really glad you didn't opt for red tassel drapes, have you used some sort of leathery copper colour there?

haha you know threads dont really die they just get left in the back of the cupboard for ages gathering dust until someone is looking for it and it reappearswhistling.gif

on to the figures i think you have your work cut out for you now deciding which to do as all three look great,i personnally think you should do the impyfist as you have made a difficult colour to master look awesome

Hey again guys..thanks once again for your comments

@infyrana..your definitely right about the multitude shades of green used for the deathguard. .I never really thought forgeworlds painting guide matched there pictures all that well..and the tassles are explained below..thanks again for your comments

 

@demonclaw...I am rather tempted by a yellow army..but what of the world eaters or the deathguard or the......haha

 

@capt semper..thanks so much for your kind comments. .just ashamed I did so bad In your last painting campaign. .look forward to seeing more of your emperors children though! !!

 

Bit late but here is a simple stage by stage for the deathguard. ..hope your sitting comfortably haha

 

Stage 1: basecoat mini in off white and interior green

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_155125.jpg

 

Stage 2: using a mix of 50/50 leadbelcher and chainmail, basecoat metal areas then wash with nuln oil..heavy round rivets..basecoat tassles in model air mud brown..was with nuln oil then when dry agrax earthshade

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_171623.jpg

 

Stage 3: pick out rivets and hard/raised edges with chainmail..wash the white armour with a 70/30 mix of thinner and seraphim sepia (now wondering if the wash is necessary after later stage)

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_180300.jpg

 

Stage 4: create a white wash of 1 drop off white and 5 drops thinner and build up the white again to your desired effect..it dries really quick and by doing thin layers you can really build up the fade to white...sponge model with desired colour then gloss varnish the entire model.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_190233.jpg

 

Stage 5: oil wash. .ok dont stop reading as this is quite a simple technique. .take about 10-15 drops of low odour thinner and mix in about half a pea sized amount of burnt umber oil paint and mix together. ..using a 000 SYNTHETIC brush just hold the loaded brush point to the area you want to shade, the wash will do the rest...any mistakes can easily be cleaned either by drying your brush and pulling the oil wash back out of the recess or after about an hour taking a clean brush slightly dampened with thinner and simply clean the oil wash off the model

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_220914.jpg

 

Stage 6: apply pure white to armour rivets

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140208_224237.jpg

 

Stage 7: apply weathering pigment small amounts at a time and seal with testors dullcote

Finished

 

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_084433.jpg

 

Hope this helps some of you..any questions lemme know. .thanks for looking

Ooh great guide thank you.  With your Testors Dullcote (didn't realise they now do a UK legal version), did you use spray for a level thin finish, or do you use the paint on lacquer?

 

I was surprised that your first varnish seal was done after you did some weathering, I'd be too scared to mess it up and apply the varnish before weathering so I could adjust if needed :)

Cool to see someone else making use of burnt umber oil paint. Looks great on the DG scheme. 

 

M2C and myself have been using the same technique. It tints the armor just enough and really helps add another layer of dimension and grime to the model. It's a very understated step, one that is surprisingly instrumental to completing the finished look. 

@infyrana..they sure do testors in the uk now mate, bugger to get hold of but usually some going on ebay..the spray that is..although uk legal you might wanna wear a mask as reading some of the side effects is quite disturbing! And regards to some weathering before glossing, just a personal thing really..like to get as much done before the oil wash..thanks again for replying.

 

@darth potato..agree with everything you said..I thought I spied burnt umber on your minis haha..which by the way, cracking thread and work you have got going on!

 

@thunors hammer..thanks for the comment..really appreciate!

 

@ brother molokai...depends I suppose on what manufacturer of gloss you are using...rule of thumb I would say leave for half hour before starting with oils..and if glossing by brush, always handy to mix a few drops of thinner into the gloss to help it go on real smooth.

 

@ WoT.. replied to you in another thread bbefore reading this one..still, hope it helps

Ok..so the sepia wash and white wash stage has been bugging me..is it necessary and does it make the mini to dark?..so for the sake of my own sanity I have painted another deathguard missing out those stages to see if there is much in it?

On this model, as well as leaving the above mentioned stages out I have also used enamel instead of oil, all this speeds up painting time aswell (yay)

 

Lemme know what you think and if there is much difference from this one to the last deathguard termie I posted

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140214_230446.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140214_230414.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140214_230626.jpg

 

Thanks for looking

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140214_230336.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/chaplainmortis/Mobile%20Uploads/20140214_230301.jpg

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