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My Sisters (Order of the Vermilion Veil)


tvih

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Logically the gloves are indeed part of the power armour, so likely it is intended as a layer of another material over the gauntlet itself, for whatever reason. But metal certainly doesn't have folds like that. Now of course they could still be left painted silver since the surface material can be color-matched to their armor of course, but it'd be interesting to try something else for the color contrast thing.

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Pondering my vehicle paint scheme again. I think my silver spray is too light. It becomes just about right on the infantry models when the black wash is applied. But I've always found that applying washes on even surfaces is very tricky, it usually ends up looking uneven and bad. I wonder if the Leadbelcher spray would do the trick. Though I'm still not sure if a metallic base color will even look good on a vehicle :unsure.: Most of the nice-looking GK vehicles I've seen have had some other stuff done in addition, something I most likely I don't have the skill for.

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Liked reading though your plog. My sisters are done the same way (army painter chainmail, wash black armour). Simple and great way to do power armour. I did my robes purple and guns black though.

 

Had the same issue when it came to the vehicles, ended up doing them black with purple/silver/gold accents, blue windows. I think staying away from the full silver for vehicles is a good idea. Have you thought about painting them red? Red would match the argeant shroud inner robes, and could use white/silver as an accent colour for vehicle weapons/insignia.

 

Strongly recommend clearcoating the models after. For mine I spray with tremclad gloss, then spray with Testors dullcote. Never had any issues with the clearcoats affecting layers underneath. Cheers!

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Well, just yesterday and today tried both Leadbelcher as well as the silver for the vehicle base. I think it looks alright, but silver appears the more "accurate" option after all. Which is "nice to know" after buying the expensive leadbelcher spray and painting almost a full vehicle with it :P Ah well, my own bad.

 

Now the problem is the same old - getting an even primer coat. I wish that one magic can of black had lasted forever, since it is the only one that hid the flaws in the plastic surface in one go. Sigh.

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Finally getting around to assembling this lil' thing too:

 

15219510_10207290418317460_8615728773087

 

Not the most pleasant assembly for sure, but yet not much more than shrug-worthy either after the disaster that is the Forgeworld Spartan... :dry.:

 

If the plastic rumor pans out, it'll be interesting to see if we finally get a new Exorcist too, not gonna get another metal one before we find out, and if don't get a new one... meh, dunno, might just make do with one :tongue.: It'll be a bit of a mess to fit into my carrying case, might have to leave the Immolator top + metals as a separate detachable section to make it easier.

Edited by tvih
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The weight wouldn't otherwise be a problem, but if I'm gonna have the Immolator top removable for transport, I'm not sure how I'll make sure the roof won't topple off the tank - or, I guess the entire tank could topple - in uneven gaming terrain :wacko.: For the latter case I'm thinking some counterweight inside the tank on the floor to lower the point of balance, but not sure if I have anything suitable and heavy enough.

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The exorcist is a pain in the ass. The cast for the base of the pipes is always badly warped. You literally have to pull, twist and squeeze that thing until it's the right shape and sits flush(ish)  on the vehicle top plate, but once it sits flat it's actually surprisingly stable.

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Im going to give a go at my next exorcist assembly of just mounting the organ directly to the top og a regular rhino with the organ player mounted ahead of it. Bling out the rhino with the armor bits and some FW doors and it should be good enough. Will leave a full immolator kit on the side, which is good.

 

I mounted all of my completed exorcists directly over the immolator canopy, and its a brutal fit. Not sure how others have gotten them to fit without mangling the canopy.

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If you haven't glued all the metal in yet, I strongly suggest to fill the gap beneath the organ 'chassis' (the metal 'base' where the servant robot will be and upon which the remaining components stand) with sprue or a plastic pipe crossbeam under it to support the weight, one of my exos has lost its glue over the years and I have an organ with all the mechanical chassis swinging around inside the rhino body :/ I'll require a surgeon :(

 

I'm eager to see the finished model, love your color schemes !

Edited by Isolia
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I didn't have too much trouble with the organ base - mostly the issue was with the organ pipes. I guess it's acceptable like it is now (and was in the pic). Will see once I start painting it at some point. As for the "structural support"... well, I don't glue the rear door so access to the loader pit is easy enough if it decides to be a traitor and fall off.

 

---

 

In other news, I've been trying to build up an accurate roster of models I have for each army, and here's the Sisters version:

 

1 Celestine
3 canoness
2 combi-flamer canoness
1 "halberd canoness" (weird conversion I got in a lot)
1 ministorum priest with plasma pistol

 

1 hospitaller

1 mistress repentia

10 repentia

1 seraphim superior with power sword and plasma pistol
2 seraphim superior with power sword
2 seraphim with hand flamers
6 seraphim

 

3 superior with power maul
3 superior with plasma pistol
1 superior with bolter
1 superior with power sword

 

1 Blessed Banner
1 Simulacrum Imperialis
4 flamer
2 melta
2 storm bolter

 

32 bolters

 

4 heavy bolter retributors
1 heavy flamer
6 retributors bodies currently unarmed (2 multimelta, 1 heavy bolter available - gonna try some special weapon conversions, one is in progress - unsurprisingly the problem is suitable glove hands)

 

2 Immolators
1 Exorcist

Edited by tvih
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In addition to the transgression above for which I should be put into one, yeah, kinda, as I've been trying to gather as many of the "unique" models as possible of the metal line. Maybe I'll get around to it before it gets discontinued :P

 

Right now I'm quite concerned that I may have "misplaced" a pair of Immolator turret operator's hands. I thought I had lost a pair when I moved house, finally found them... but now I can't find the other pair. It's not like I have spares! Well, other than the ones that came with the Exorcist I guess, but even those could be used to make an Immolator with the Razorback hatch thingie. Can't find the second Immolator sprue either to confirm if I removed them from it or not :( I suck at bits management...

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I think I'm gonna keep this first Immolator in the leadbelcher color, too much of a risk to mess it up with the silver spray I think. My excuse is that it'll stand out as the Canoness's command Immolator :tongue.:

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/sob-immo-leadbelcher.jpg

 

The resin parts are slightly problematic in a metallic color it seems. They're not as smooth as the plastic so they look a bit different especially at certain angles. Oh well, can't be helped I suppose. Not sure what colors I'll do on the interior and exterior circles of the door Sisters badge yet (well obviously the doors aren't in the pic, but they're of course the FW ones). I may have to do some weathering on the tracks to make them stand out from the rest of the tank, as I've found the silver spray to be a bit bright for tracks (of course, some marine tanks are already done with that).

 

Second Immolator is partially done with the lighter silver, though given my list for the upcoming friendly tournament I should work on the Exorcist first (yet even before that I really need to finish my Imperial Fists vow).

Edited by tvih
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http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/sob-immo-leadbelcher2.jpg

 

A few tweaks here and there (like making up for the fact that I stupidly didn't paint the "upside" of the tracks in my middle-of-the-night stupor) and probably some decorative bits at some point in the future, but I reckon it is ready to hit the gaming tables!

Edited by tvih
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  • 4 weeks later...

Not quite as interesting as other things happening in the Sisters front today, but here's some models mostly ready to enter the fray (at the Cadian gate or elsewhere):

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/sob-paintedgroup.jpg

 

Still contemplating what to use as the left arm of the retributor-converted-into-melta-gun sister. It's either a pistol from a canoness or try and think of something else. Hard to make a mold of something as small as a bracer+hand.

 

And finally converted one of the two older Canoness models I have to have the eviscerator and the combi-weapon is now supposed to be a melta... sadly the flamer "nozzle" was rather badly damaged getting it off, bah.

 

I should also do a combi-melta canoness of the newer model probably since I have three (well, kinda four) of the darned things, but that too would require mold-copying or modding a pistol arm. It's actually why I've been thinking of using them as a command squad or something and leave the canoness-ing to either that older model or Veridyan/Celestine. Decisions, decisions!

Edited by tvih
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Nice silver on the tank :) 

I re-read the thread to not miss other pics :) If you haven't glued on the exorcist organ yet (of the previous posts) then don't: it fits perfectly well on its position without glue, and it'll help you transport it :) the other pieces may already fall off sometimes, so the big booty gun that is half the tank is better off being removable imho :)

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Might not glue the organ, but then I would need some long pins to keep it in place on uneven terrain (it topples off so easily). At any rate the Exorcist is meant to be the next Sisters model I work on, hopefully soon. Gotta paint an Astra Militarum Sentinel first as a test run for AM vehicles first though :P 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm... a bit stuck with getting going with the Exorcist beyond the basecoat it would seem. Can't seem to decide on the colors of various parts and whatnot. Guess I should start with the "parchments" in the meanwhile.

 

However I was wondering about the extra metal plates that attach to the hull. Do you folks remove the "studs" on the plastic hull from the area that the plates cover? Because after all the plates don't fit flush to the hull with the protruding studs in place, and I suppose they should. Should've thought about this before basecoating, though I guess if I glue the plates in place it won't matter that much even if I put the basecoated areas to the knife, so to speak.

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