Colour Test

[The Red Thirst]

Well Brothers, here is my first colour test for my Flesh Tearers army.

 

Comments and opinions are welcome.

 

Havent got to detailing yet, just wanted to get the base colours down first. Im not totally sold on the colour yet, kinda want more of a deeper darker red, any advice?

 

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee410/TheRedThirst/IMG_1835_Resize_zps42307910.jpg

[knife&fork]

It's a test model, right? Give it a generous amount of nuln oil on one half and a mix of 50/50 nuln oil and agrax earthshade on the other. Highlight with your base color. 

 

Which red did you use?

[The Red Thirst]

A few layers of older GW Scab Red & Gore Red 

[knife&fork]

I see, that's why it looks so purplish in pictures, used that one myself before they changed the range.

Don't think there's a straight up equivalent in the new colors. I'd recommend 'khorne red' (it's not as dark as it seems on GWs homepage or color charts) as a base layer and 'mephiston red' for highlights. GW shades and Army Painter inks are highly recommended if you haven't tried them already. Go for the darker ones as mentioned earlier (or dark tone, strong tone for AP inks) as stright up red and brown washes do very little on a deep red.

Best tip I can give for painting red is to find a good third party spray primer that's roughly the same shade of whatever red on a pot you go with from GW. It will save you soooooo much time.

[The Red Thirst]

Thanks very much for the feedback knife&fork, I actually have a pot of Khorne Red at home, so I might have a go, ill have to buy the others though.

 

Do you have a primer that you could recommend?

[sockwithaticket]

Closest paints to Scab red I've found are P3 Sanguine Base and Reaper Master Series Deep Red.

I painted this Flesh Tearer using Sanguine Base and Sanguine Highlight for, surprisingly enough, the highlights:

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2012/10/31/426741_mb-.JPG

Dark enough red?

[The Red Thirst]

Yeah about that dark but just a bit more Red than Burgundy. Something like this:

 

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee410/TheRedThirst/redlegs_zpsc02e0fd8.jpg

[knife&fork]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If that's the end result you want the AP sprays should work fine. 

 

 

 

Thanks very much for the feedback knife&fork, I actually have a pot of Khorne Red at home, so I might have a go, ill have to buy the others though.

 

Do you have a primer that you could recommend?

 

I could post some pictures tomorrow if you'd like. To give you an idea of the end results before you rush out and buy a bunch of pots.

 

Don't really have a specific spray can to recommend as the brands and quality vary quite a bit from continent to continent. I know that you should avoid any water based spray as they have too much flow and destroy details when used on models. Also stay away from anything that isn't labeled as at least 'matte'. Shiny colors can be toned down with washes but they chip easily and acrylic hobby paint doesn't stick to it without several layers.

 

Army painter makes very good color primers but they don't have one suitable for flesh tearers straight out of the can. 'Chaotic red' is way too dark. 'pure red' and 'dragon red' can work but you'll want to tint it with washes or a glaze, thus eliminating a lot of the time savings on larger models and vehicles. 

 

I usually just buy a can I think will good and test it on some sprue. The ones I've been using for the last few years just disappeared from the manufacturers line up, so I'm trying to find a replacement myself.  

[sockwithaticket]

Hmm, possibly Vallejo Model Colour Red (033, NOT 029 as that's practically orange) for your main colour and Army Painter Dragon Red for the highlight, mix the two for midtone plus some serious shading for those recesses. That's the best I can think of right now, but I've not tried that myself.

[The Red Thirst]

That would be great if you have already have some finished models as an example knife&fork, now i just need to find a hobby shop nearby that stocks Army Painter cans ;)

 

Thanks again

[marine7312000]

I've found pretty good success with the Army Painter line of paints.  I have a picture in my gallery on here that was done as a color comparison for chaos red and dragon red. Both have been washed with their quickshade strong.

[marine7312000]

If I have a chance I can do up a test model with Dragon red on one side and Chaos Red on the other. It may not be the best picture but it should give you some idea.

[Remtek]

Depends on how much time you want to use on the models. I'd try with a brown wash, works really well with red (dosnt look brown). If you want the red to look deeper and still keep the dark look i think the Bloodletter Glaze can work pretty well. Is that mephison red you based with?

[marine7312000]

Well I got the paint on the model. On the chainsword side is Chaotic red, on the pistol side is Dragon Red. Chaotic red took two coats to get an even layer because I didn't shake the bottle as well as I should have. Also this just over bare resin. As knife&fork mentions below the primer can make a difference.

[knife&fork]

I think it's worth pointing out that you might not get the same result without white primer as a base. It adds a lot of brightness to reds. 

 

With grey, black or just grey plastic as a base you'll get a a more subdued hue. 

[DarkMark]

Check out the GW Wolf ship painting guide at the 10 minute mark here: you see how to do an effective and quick deep red.

[The Red Thirst]

I think it's worth pointing out that you might not get the same result without white primer as a base. It adds a lot of brightness to reds. 

 

With grey, black or just grey plastic as a base you'll get a a more subdued hue. 

I noticed that, I'll try white primer next time as marine did above, thanks for all you're help guys.

[sockwithaticket]

I know this might be sidetracking the thread a bit (sorry), but in that video Dark Mark posted it shows the guy handling the Stormwolf fully painted and assembled while he does the details and that baffles me. If ever I attempt that it usually ends up with finger print marks on the surface (not in the paint, as that's dry, but on top as it were) and eroded highlights that I then have to redo. Is that just me?

[marine7312000]

 

I think it's worth pointing out that you might not get the same result without white primer as a base. It adds a lot of brightness to reds. 

 

With grey, black or just grey plastic as a base you'll get a a more subdued hue. 

I noticed that, I'll try white primer next time as marine did above, thanks for all you're help guys.

 

Its actually not primered at all. The only primer I have currently is a can of red and I wanted to give you a good base idea of how the paint would look.

[knife&fork]

 

 

I think it's worth pointing out that you might not get the same result without white primer as a base. It adds a lot of brightness to reds. 

 

With grey, black or just grey plastic as a base you'll get a a more subdued hue. 

I noticed that, I'll try white primer next time as marine did above, thanks for all you're help guys.

 

Its actually not primered at all. The only primer I have currently is a can of red and I wanted to give you a good base idea of how the paint would look.

 

 

looks to me like there's a layer of white there. Did you really paint the reds on top of grey plastic, straight from the pots? 

[marine7312000]

Sure did. Straight from the paint pallet on the resin. It could look like there's white due to the bright sun in Central TX in the early morning.

[knife&fork]

I see, bright light and FW resin. That explains it.

I'll then change my statement;

With the slightly darker plastics and indoors lightning the reds will be a bit more subdued. White primer will result in a similar look indoors.

[appiah4]

I suggest using a neutral grey primer before the red coat, that will help dull the shine and achieve a dark but satisfying red..

 

http://image.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_8363/gallery_60983_8363_64703.jpg

[Xenith]

Mephiston red with a heavy wash of carroburn crimson gives a good flesh tearer-y red. It may be a little messy, though and will need tidying up.

[appiah4]

Mephiston red with a heavy wash of carroburn crimson gives a good flesh tearer-y red. It may be a little messy, though and will need tidying up.

 

I find a direct red wash over a red to be relatively useless, especially when it's a high pigment dark red like Mephiston/Mechrite red.

 

In these cases it's better to just give the model a generous flesh wash to shade it, which will make it turn a tad brownish, then go over the whole model with a light layer of red wash to fix the hue.

 

That's what I did with the models I posted above, the result is a much better shaded red.

 

Then you can highlight to your taste.  I tend to go for edge highlights that aren't too extreme.  YMMV.