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Isnt that Russ' axe?

 

I'm a fan of the updated Jarl

Yep.

 

After Russ got inadvertently smashed by my son, I got another one. The original axe was salvage-able, so this one is repurposed.

 

 

Love that shield. Where is it from?

 

The shield I have had for absolute years... From whe GW did bits for sale. It is an old dwarf kings shield, there are 2 indents in it for where the old king model would stand on the shield and be carried around by his shield bearers a la Vitalststistix.. Chief from the Asterix books.

 

 

Current axe and shield are the best!

 

Really like the head and power pack you went with as well!

 

Thanks Bryan. Been raiding the last of my 30K bits and I got a semi complete wulfen kit on the cheap from ebay, the wulfen kit is a treasure trove of bits.

May end up using 2 hammer hafts for axe heads, so I can use them single handed for the blade guard if I go down the axe route, still undecided

 

Painted Shield, Dwarf looking axe.

 

Axe is still a consideration, if I do not use it on the Jarl, it might go to the Lieutenant instead.

Edited by Dantay VI

Just snapped the banner off of the Blade Guard Ancient.... Anyone think this could work as a Rune Priest holding a staff instead?

 

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Would it be a better option for the Wolves to run a second Rune Priest (other in Phobos) over having the Ancient?

 

Also a little bit of an update

 

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Not sure if the Crozius is too long, or it needs something at the bottom to balance it out.

Thoughts?

 

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Chopping away at the belly, as I plan on giving him a suitable belt.

The decoration o the end of the belt bi will hang just below the new belt that the Jarl will have :)

I hate to be a downer, but im not sold on the Rune Priest/Blade Guard Ancient. 
its one of the models that I felt was a complete miss in the box set.

 

I also think the Crozius may be too big.

 

I do love the green stuffed amulet and such, those were fantastic additions. 

  • 2 weeks later...

For some weird reason, the PC at work will not let me do quotes.

 

As many of you have said, the crozius looks too long and I totally agree, so I have cut the lengthe down..... While doing it, I had a thought, I have broken Horus and a spare World Breaker, Maybe the head of that would look cool?

 

world breaker

 
Picture of Worldbreaker for reference
 
The spikes were malformed on the edges so they got removed. Unfortunately I cannot post an image as the models are at home just now. They were not ready for painting, so been left behind.
 
I also gave the Ancient a power sword (I know he is ont allowed a melee weapon). I am still undecided about the Rune Priest idea, but think it might look okay and has a Gandal "You shall not pass" vibe to it. Might need a beardier head though.
 
I did a fe other small bits and pieces, still working on belt ideas for the Captain.
 
Anyways back to whats on the paint desk.
 
So last time I did a bit of airbrushing and my models came out baby  baby blue

Hvarl

Priest...

rune priest

 
Which is a far cry from what I was normally doing.

Veteran

WHich has been great, but overtime I have felt tha its too dark, which mean the decals struggle and some effects are hard to pull off and quite frankly I am getting bored, so I wanted to shake things up a little

 

 
Well did a super thinned down spray of skavenblight dinge on them from the top. When I asy thiin, I mean like dirty dish water.
I worked better on some than others. My big concern was that if it was too thick it would wreckk al the pre-shade that went before, however too thin and it would just disperse or just run into the recesses.
 
I think I went a bit too thin, the colour change is very subtle, in fact on the Priest it is not notice-able at all
 
This meant I have had to go back over the paints I had already doen to bring them back again (mainly the metallics)
 
So this is where I am at with them
 

quatre

Dos

sept

 
Not too bad eh?
 

cinq

seize

 
I had a gap in the cloak and initially I overlooked it, but he more I worked on it the more it bugged me, so I broke down and tried my "not quite" liquid GS to fill the gap.
 

huit

This is the Priest where the grey glaze didn work at all and he is stil a vibrant baby blue.
I am really stuck with this one. Original idea was a Rune Priest, but now more like a wolf priest guiding some wulfen or something the way he hand is more pointing than "casting"
Also I thought the bronze/ copeer on the chest plate would be cool, but its way too distracting. I might g with a dark leather or steel instead to blend it in more, what do you think?
 

Uno

This is my Russ test model. I do not want to screw Russ up too much, so I ry stuff out on this guy firs before trying it on Russ. Quite liking how he is looking so far :D

 

These models are definitey not how I would normally paint my models. But for now, I am trying pre-shade basic coas of paints and next I am going to go in with water based oils for stains and pin-washes across the armour etc. I am hoping at this point it will darken the armour and give it a nice grimy beat up weathered look. Then on to highlights and all the fun stuff.

 

Last thought. This blog is getting a bit on the big side and spans 5-6 years or so. I am thinking of starting over with a new one, maybe start it with a bit of a recap or something to show how things have progressed over the years and then start fresh.

 

let me know your ideas, thanks for looking.

 
 
 
 

 

 

 

I wonder if worldbreaker May be too big, I haven’t seen one in person. Worth some comparing though since it’s definitely cool.

 

As for the larger metallic chest peice guy, I wonder if doing the bottom part the regular armor blue and maybe doing some pack marking style designs on the top (or bottom really) might be cool. Like black and blue sawtooth or something. Something to keep the interest but not so in your face while highlighting the cool armor design?

Thanks Pete that may be worth a try. Something like Triszin has done with his gravinators?

 

Have you had any dealings with water based/ soluble oils?

 

I got some to avoid having spirits in the house plus, I can use them offshore.

 

Should I use them the same as normal oils, or let cure 24 hours and clean but use water instead of spirits?

I haven’t sorry, I’ve only used traditional oils so I’m not totally sure. But re: the chest peices yea! Doesn’t need to be crazy but I see those prominent flat spaces and feel like their begging to be taken advantage of. :)

 

Edit: I’m ignorant to any restrictions etc but they make some odorless spirits that I’ve used in the house without issue. I use the AK one.

Edited by PeteySödes

Restrictions for working offshore is that you cannot transport anything flammable, or with a hazard warning mark. Also no sharp items like snips, scissors or knives

 

Hazard symbols like htese on a product are a no-go, so for example milliputt cannot be taken offshore as it has te orange square with an X for irritant on it.

 

hazard symbols

Meh, its why I try and get the buiding done at home and ome of te base layers down, that way all I need to do is paint when I get here.

 

Most vallejo, scale 75 and GW paints are fine as they are water based acrylics, so non-toxic.

 

Did almost get my paints taken off of me a few christmasses ago. A ne security guy was asking what al lthe little pots were for, so being funny, I told him I was taking shots out for the boys in the paint pots.

Thankfully one of te more experienced security guuards knew who I was and I was fine. Almost had to phone GW for a materials data sheet to show it was paint in the pots :D

Water mixable oils hmmm? I saw something like this at an art store yesterday. Was a new thing to me.

 

Edit: ah, just read why you're using them. Interesting.

Edited by ranulf the revenant

Yes, it means I do not need the spirits to mix them.

 

I did ask in another forum on here about using tem and he says that once the water part evaporates you will still need spirits to clean.

 

I admit to getting impatient and after 2 hours or so I used a wet brush on the oils and it reactivated and I could do some clean up.

 

I will try again toniight. I want to see if it is still malleable wit water, just like traditional oils are with spirits. If not I have toassue that Arkhanist is correct.

 

He also did mention a caly version but needs sealed straight after you are done, as any moisture will reactivate it again.

 

I'd like to give a big shout out to Lil Legends, I subscribe to his patreon and some of his ideas and techniques are brilliant.

  • 1 month later...

Wow, almost 2 months since I posted anything.

 

And not much of an update to be fair.

 

I have decided to stop working on Russ for now, and focus on my 2 test models. I want to see if I can do things more consistently, so rather than 1, I have gone for 2

 

I am trying out new techniques for faces and and on the armour (as if trying to learn to use oils wasn't enough :biggrin.: ) I also plan to try a few of his leather tutorials, such as from his vindicta tutorials, and one of his newer ones for the Lion.

 

And first time ever using a wet palette

 

Big shout out to Lil Legends How do I pin or hashtag thingy him to posts?

 

So far I am enjoying myself

 

The face was done as per his Raldoron tutorial, the reds are a mish-mash of his howl of Yarrant tutorial and a bit of sunny skin tone, the armour is his tutorial on pointilism.

Was going to try miro-chippping, may even still try it.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

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Edited by Dantay VI

Looking really good. Skin tone is good and is in sync with the rest of the model and I really dig the vibe of the rune priest.

 

 

Thanks, its been a fun learning curve.

The skin is a totally different method of painting than I am used to and the only flesh colour used was cadian flesh tone :D

 

I have another WIP. Think I went a bit overboard on the pointi-whats it on Frostfang. The basic idea is tto bab the edge highlight on with the point of the brush rather than do smooth lines, gives the edges a slightly broken and chipped appearance.

Tried to rein it back in with a glaze of sol yellow, may go back in with arctic yellow to do more gentle pointing.

 

Now with the armour, I like the smaller scatches etc, but the bigger bits, like the rune priests right shoulder, should I use a different colour in the centre of the damaged parts, like rhinox hide?

 

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Your models are well-painted. I appreciate the fact you outlined the knotwork on their armor, instead of painting the plates in one color and rendering the knotwork near-invisible.

Thanks guys,

 

Ragnar is getting there slowly. I have been thinking that I did a great job with his face and then did a close up.

 

Somehow his nose has got damaged and the face looks awful, I am going to have to go back and re-do it.

 

Does anybody know how to convincing dark grey hair?

 

 

I want Ragnar to look like he has aged a bit. After all this is now over a century from where all the other stories left off and he has been through the mill a bit, so I thought he needed to look a little older.

 

Anyway the face depressed me so had a play with the base, the decoration is coming out okay, the rest of the base is just painted until I can get home to decorate it. Still need to do shadows on the base.

 

Let me know your thoughts

 

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