Inquisitor Eisenhorn Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I'm sitting here with the whole Deathstorm and Stormclaw boxes to build. That's a lot of minis still on the sprue. What is the single thing I am looking forward to least in the process of getting these finished? Mold Lines. I HATE cleaning mold lines. Every single piece, no matter how small, has a mold line to file. Not to mention the careful inspecting to find them, and always missing a few! Does anyone have any tips about how to make this process go faster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoyo ninja Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I use a stanly knife to scrap the lines off. It's quicker than a file but you do need to be careful not to take to much off or cut yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saphrael Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 By far my most hated part of the hobby and the single biggest blocker to my productivity. That said, I've never found a way faster than scraping with a hobby knife, but find I frequently miss areas too. Wish I could be more helpful, but I eagerly await the genius of the B&C Hive Brain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I always use a knife, and only bust out files in rare circumstances. For smaller, subtler mold lines, scrape the blade sideways along the line, dragging backwards rather than cutting forwards. It will peel the plastic easily, without any major risk of digging into the plastic as you might if you tried to cut it off conventionally. For major mold lines, yeah, you gotta do a lot of cutting. I despise the Assault Squad arms more than life itself some times, between the compact areas of detail and the monstrously bad mold lines you get nowadays. As for expediency...I can't help you. This is a blight upon all of us, my friend. The blade-dragging technique will work much faster than a file on subtler mold lines, but it's still a long, tedious process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMan Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I would genuinely pay a commission painter to remove mold lines from sets for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inquisitor Eisenhorn Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 I would genuinely pay a commission painter to remove mold lines from sets for me... Gah, I know!! Honestly, I've never had much luck with the knife method, I use a jewel file. I've started to experiment with various metal brushes, but they all seem too rough on plastic. If we as a group could find the right brush, that would probably be the fastest. Side note, why is GW STILL putting sprue branches on the rims of shoulder pads? Do they realize how awful it is to cut and clean those without hurting the pads?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Mould lines? You mean Space Marines don't iron creases into their suits? Mine do :D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trysanna Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I'll agree with what others have said, a sharp hobby knife is the best method. To be honest, I find it kinda relaxing to get rid of the mild lines, but maybe I'm just weird. -Tarvick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvmoogy Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I'm a big fan of the GW tool. The curve in it is perfect for the round things (flamers, shoulder pads etc) and it does a really good, quick job. Horses for courses though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnosaur93 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 to me cleaning mold lines are often a weird form of meditation almost, its not really too bad if you can talk to someone or listen/watch somethign in the backgground meanwhile... as far as tools goes, honestly brushes sounds like a terrible idea, scraping and filing/sanding when absolutely neccecery is the way to go another point though that will vastly speed up things, and make sure you dont miss areas, start in one place, and then work your way around the component, dont skip any area till you are back where you started, then after that, go into "holes" and clean those (like between cables and the like)... its not like mold lines will ever split and go in several directions, due to how casting works, so doing it like this is pretty much fool-proof, which also means you can allow your brain to go into cruise control for that nice meditative relaxation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercus Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Backpacks are the worst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGeils81 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I've been using the back of an X-Acto knife, not the sharp part.. and some sanding "sticks?" long round, white, like an overlarged toothpick made of sandpaper Haven't found anything faster myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilden Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 A really sharp hobby knife, and a blunt hobby knife is the best I've found, the sharp can end up being a bit harsh on some bits, the blunt helps when the sharp one seems to be cutting into the model more than it needs to get the mould line, then real fine sandpaper is always helpful. Just as a note, it seems I've found sharp hobby blades must have some inbuilt need to draw blood lol, every time I've opened a fresh blade to put it on, even when I've said 'ok i have to be careful with this, i don't want to cut myself AGAIN', i end up cutting myself, i think a good portion of the blades must be possessed by Khorne lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Truckin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 My biggest problem is just finding the suckers. It's almost inevitable that as soon as I prime find more mold lines. Sure they are for the most part hidden. But I know they are still there, quietly lie n wait, mocking me at any chance to show themselves. uggggg I've heard good things about the GW Tool and want to try it. I currently scrape with a dull hobby knife and use a round file for hard to get places. Does GW sell these ( and I suppose any of their overpriced tools ) in their retail stores? I haven't purchased anything directly from GW in over a year or seen a retail store in 3 years. I've looked online for a 'non' gw version of this scraper but have not found one so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master Caloth Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I actually prime first just to make the little devils more visible. Lol. For me, the back side of a blade is the fastest and most reliable method, even on pauldrons or rounded weapon/armor parts. Do long as you don't over-scrape, it's the best method to minimize risk to the details of the model, ESPECIALLY FW stuff. (SO MUCH FLASH.... Almost as likely to make make my ptsd worse as another combat deployment. Lol) and I'm glad I'm not the only one that usually finds it somewhat meditative (like cleaning my weapon, actually). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercus Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I've always used an artists scalpel. Back of the blade for bigger lines where you need a bit more pressure to remove them, sharp edge for smaller lines or ones in tricky corners. I also find it handy for trimming off bits of detail I don't like. (Foot cables anyone?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilden Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 My biggest problem is just finding the suckers. It's almost inevitable that as soon as I prime find more mold lines. Sure they are for the most part hidden. But I know they are still there, quietly lie n wait, mocking me at any chance to show themselves. uggggg Lol, i know how you feel brother. Like spending an hour cleaning up a whole squad and then when your on the final one, notice one area that wasn't cleaned up, and then having to go back over the WHOLE squad again >.< I guess its best if it does get caught before any paint gets put down, that is the worst, i get so paranoid about missing a mould line i keep going over and over any model I'm about top start painting, i swear you can get to the point you start imagining them lol, mirage mould lines :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venemox Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Emery boards, like the ones used for doing your nails. You can buy a bulk quantity of the very cheap ones at most dollar stores, big box stores, drug stores, or grocers. Works very well, and quickly. I think its easier than the knife and faster than jewelers files. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komodo Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Trusty old dull blade. it cannot cut accidentially, and is a great scraper. I still don't understand why would anyone use special "moldline scraper" :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master Caloth Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Emery boards, like the ones used for doing your nails. You can buy a bulk quantity of the very cheap ones at most dollar stores, big box stores, drug stores, or grocers. Works very well, and quickly. I think its easier than the knife and faster than jewelers files.But have a lot of trouble fitting in some crooks and crannies that a hobby knife didn't. But they are awesome for vehicle parts, I agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoic Raptor Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'm a big fan of the GW tool. The curve in it is perfect for the round things (flamers, shoulder pads etc) and it does a really good, quick job. I may have to break down and order one, as I cannot find them in stores around here. I generally scrape backwards with the edge of a #11 knife, using files for fine detail and an old toothbrush for cleanup. A very fine wire brush works; if you can find the old Citadel mould line remover, it came with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoots Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Im not really bothered with flash lines although the work required to get my storm eagle even close to fitting together was unreal. best part of three days work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black_out Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I soak them in a 50:50 solution of the bottled tears I've shed over missing them and the pools of blood I've drawn by carving my own fingers to pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarlessllama Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 For mold lines, I really like the GW tool. It is the only GW brand tool I own, and I think it is worth every penny. I have nicked up more models with a hobby knife than I would care to admit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoic Raptor Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Mine is (apparently) on the way - and of course, the day after I ordered it on eBay, I found three in a hobby store I was passing by. :\ I am looking forward to trying it out. For those who can't get the tool, I wonder if a carving blade like this might be better for scraping than the straight #11 blade that's so common: http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/classic-blades/Carving-Blade-104.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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