Volt Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 http://i.imgur.com/YxFCOo8.jpg Right is the scheme of the Chapter after they were founded. I definitely want to run C:DA and not C:SM for the chapter, no matter how bad the meta currently is for DA. But I've run into a bit of a pit. I want to give them a monastic/knightly theme given that they're based off Norman knights, but I don't want to have to buy a bunch of DA Veteran bits to give them cloaks. So, Are there any third party bits shop that make cloaked bodies for space marines, like Puppets of War? I'm already going to buy Puppets of War germanic great helm bits, but I haven't been able to fine anything like surcaots or tabards for space marines. Or alternatively, does anyone know of any reliable, American based online store that sells MK II Crusade armor at a discounted price? If I can't get cloaks, MK II does invoke a fairly strong medieval image in my eyes, personally more then Aquila (I'm just not a fan of MK VII, it's just so average and unexciting). Also, should I even bother with the black trim on the shoulder pads? The painting scheme I've been thinking of would have me just assembled the legs, arms, and torso, prime black and use a wash and/or shade, while priming the pauldrons and head separately and layer multiple times with yellow until the color's strong. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teetengee Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 You may also want to look into black templar bits for some more of that knightly feel. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975272 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Try http://www.spellcrow.com/ and their space knights. They might have the bits you are after. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975276 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Try http://www.spellcrow.com/ and their space knights. They might have the bits you are after. Those will work, but it's like they're purposefully screwing with the minds of the customer. Set of 10 bodies with tabards, but the legs come in packs of six?! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975283 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlson793 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Seconding Spellcrow. Their Space Knights line has (among other things) hooded heads, tabarded torsos, and robed legs. http://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsHoodedHeads.jpghttp://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsTorsosTabards.jpghttp://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsLegsinRobes.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975306 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Try http://www.spellcrow.com/ and their space knights. They might have the bits you are after. Those will work, but it's like they're purposefully screwing with the minds of the customer. Set of 10 bodies with tabards, but the legs come in packs of six?! Not going to make any excuses for that. That's their choice. :lol: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975309 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Seconding Spellcrow. Their Space Knights line has (among other things) hooded heads, tabarded torsos, and robed legs. http://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsHoodedHeads.jpghttp://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsTorsosTabards.jpghttp://www.spellcrow.com/images/Space_Knights/SpaceKnightsLegsinRobes.jpg Yeah, those Spellcrow kits should definitely do the job, but I'll sit on my cash for a while before jumping it- I want to see how that HH rumor goes. But I will certainly be using that site for future purchases. Try http://www.spellcrow.com/ and their space knights. They might have the bits you are after. Those will work, but it's like they're purposefully screwing with the minds of the customer. Set of 10 bodies with tabards, but the legs come in packs of six?! Not going to make any excuses for that. That's their choice. It's hotdog buns all over again. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975314 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoic Raptor Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Seconding Spellcrow. Their Space Knights line has (among other things) hooded heads, tabarded torsos, and robed legs. I'm going to check them out! Just what I need for some DA conversions. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975317 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Also, unless GW miraculously releases an HH set with MK II or MK III in it, I'll be ordering this from puppets of war. http://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=274 EDIT Also to prevent any other threads like this being made, why not just make an Index of all third party bits for quick reference? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975323 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlson793 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I'll get on that this evening - got a good number saved on the home PC. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975347 Share on other sites More sharing options...
markham82 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 There are some tutorials on this site on how to make cloaks yourself, I just can't remember where to look exactly. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975362 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlson793 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 markham, I think you're remembering BCK's tissue paper tutorial. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975476 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainStabby Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Anvil Industries has some good HH looking armor on their various kits. I'm using a mix of FW bitz and theirs for HH era Fallen myself. Super blurry pic but... yeah. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3975496 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Holy throne, I just got a robbery deal. Ravenwing Battleforce for $88 bucks, no way in hell I'm passing up that. Guess I'll be ordering the knightly head bits from Puppets of War. I'll save the Robed bits for a time when I buy infantry. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976473 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I think Micro Art studios has some bits like that. But with how much bitz stores charge for a set of legs, torsos, or heads, you may as well just buy a DA box and perhaps supplement it with one or two choice picks from any of these bitz sites. As for the painting, I do love me a good contrasting trim on shoulders. But seeing as it would be black on black, it won't make a huge difference to just make the whole pad yellow, but you will want to have a good shading line along the inside of the trim to keep them from looking like big yellow blobs. I've seen some people prime models white and use the new glazes from GW to turn them a lovely yellow with infuriating ease. I'm not sure I understand your approach for black though. You want to prime black, and then darken it somehow with shades/glazes? Unless you actually prime a shade of deep grey, that isn't likely to work. Edit- Just read the previous post. Seems like you went with the above approach after all :lol: Grats on finding a good deal. I dunno how the hell people find this stuff. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976480 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 I think Micro Art studios has some bits like that. But with how much bitz stores charge for a set of legs, torsos, or heads, you may as well just buy a DA box and perhaps supplement it with one or two choice picks from any of these bitz sites. As for the painting, I do love me a good contrasting trim on shoulders. But seeing as it would be black on black, it won't make a huge difference to just make the whole pad yellow, but you will want to have a good shading line along the inside of the trim to keep them from looking like big yellow blobs. I've seen some people prime models white and use the new glazes from GW to turn them a lovely yellow with infuriating ease. I'm not sure I understand your approach for black though. You want to prime black, and then darken it somehow with shades/glazes? Unless you actually prime a shade of deep grey, that isn't likely to work. Edit- Just read the previous post. Seems like you went with the above approach after all Grats on finding a good deal. I dunno how the hell people find this stuff. I'm not a real fan of the GW laborious shading method. I prefer to use the army painter system with quickshade. I'm not paid to say this, but the stuff is seriously like a can of liquid miracles. http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/TAP_Step3.jpg This is what quickshade does to a model. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976485 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I still think of it as cheating. I've been refining my painting skills for almost 20 years. I can't accept that there are now ridiculously easy methods to get tabletop quality models. Everyone should suffer as I've suffered! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976487 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quixus Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I'm not a real fan of the GW laborious shading method. I prefer to use the army painter system with quickshade. I'm not paid to say this, but the stuff is seriously like a can of liquid miracles. http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/TAP_Step3.jpg]]http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/TAP_Step3.jpg This is what quickshade does to a model. I got to get me a can of that stuff. What color did you use? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976516 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 I'm not a real fan of the GW laborious shading method. I prefer to use the army painter system with quickshade. I'm not paid to say this, but the stuff is seriously like a can of liquid miracles. http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/TAP_Step3.jpg]]http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/TAP_Step3.jpg This is what quickshade does to a model. I got to get me a can of that stuff. What color did you use? Oh no, that's not my models. But depending on the primary colors it ranges from light, medium, and dark. Dark's only good for well, dark models or CSM's to give them that gritty feel. Medium is probably the best for across the board usage. But to use it, you just basecoat the model, no shading, dip it, dry it, then use some sealant "anti shine" to remove the gloss and lock in the color. Also does a good job of preserving paint as it's essentially wood varnish. Definitely use gloves when using the stuff unless you want to dye your hands. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976584 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fibonacci Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 It's the Army Painter version of a Minwax dip. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976650 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoic Raptor Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Army Painter Quick Tones can make an average painter good, and a good painter great. I remember when the Citadel "Expert Set" of inks came out about 1990 or so, how rapidly my work improved in quality. This stuff is even easier to use. It won't make a bad paint job good, but it can help with a lot of minor imperfections and tricky areas. It really adds to the look. I find that Dark Tone (similar to the old Badab Black) works better on "cool" colors and white metals, and the Soft Tone (Seraphim Sepia equivalent) or Strong Tone (Devlan Mud equivalent) are better choices for yellow metals and warm colors like reds and yellows. I still think a flesh wash is better for skin, but this stuff is incredible. I don't dip my models, I use the smaller dropper bottles and brush it on. This allows me to shade different areas with different washes, as well as using them ti paint in line shading along panels, joints and folds. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976787 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 It's the Army Painter version of a Minwax dip. Minwax sucks. It's budget certainly, but the quality of the shade is awful. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3976879 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fibonacci Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 lol Whatever helps you sleep at night Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3977071 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volt Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 lol Whatever helps you sleep at night I've used it. The quality of the shading is poor. It especially doesn't work well with GW models unless you're going for a really gritty IG army- it comes out looking like a deep dark brown. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3977179 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fibonacci Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 You do realize that Army Pinter does not actually make the product. They rebrand it much like GW does with their paints. Considering AP was founded by ex-GW people it makes sense. AP Strong is Minwax Tudor. If you are getting a result that is too dark you were probably using Bombay or Espresso. Minwax (and other brands) also make clear, water-based polyurethane that you can add your own ink to get the exact color you want. FWIW, I have used Winsor & Newton and Liquitex inks and prefer W&N. Which is a change from normal because I use Liquitex matte medium, flow aide and retardant. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/304541-need-bits-advice/#findComment-3978987 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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