Removing resin "tabs" from Forge World models

[geektom]

hey all, trying to get back into the swing of things, so I treated myself to my first-ever FW purchase.

 

A question I have is that the "tabs" that connect the model to the injection point are HUGE! In some cases, larger than the part they are attached to... if you have received FW stuff, I hope you know what I am talking about...

 

Any tips on cutting that stuff off? Some pieces on the Dreadnaught I got are a couple of inches long, so I can't snip them... if I score them very carefully with a sharp blade, will they snap off cleanly?

 

Thanks!

[Lucien Eilam]

A razor saw is the safest way, particularly for components connected by multiple gates. I use Tamiya's. It's very comfortable and will go through anything in two or three strokes.

 

Scoring and snapping is unpredictable. An air bubble you've no way of knowing about could change the direction it splits.

 

Clippers can warp the edge of the component as you squeeze. If there are multiple gates, they can cause the others to snap as you clip through one, potentially taking a chunk out of the component.

 

For best results, saw through them 1-2mm away from the component, then clean up with a sharp hobby knife, files, and sandpaper.

[deathspectersgt7]

A razor saw is the safest way, particularly for components connected by multiple gates. I use Tamiya's. It's very comfortable and will go through anything in two or three strokes.

 

Scoring and snapping is unpredictable. An air bubble you've no way of knowing about could change the direction it splits.

 

Clippers can warp the edge of the component as you squeeze. If there are multiple gates, they can cause the others to snap as you clip through one, potentially taking a chunk out of the component.

 

For best results, saw through them 1-2mm away from the component, then clean up with a sharp hobby knife, files, and sandpaper.

This +1. Wear gloves to protect your fingers .

[geektom]

Thanks, gents! I have a fine tooth jewelers saw, I will try that and see how it goes. Any glue recommendations while we are on the topic of FW?

 

Also, whichever mod changed my thread topic title to be more specific- thank you! Much better choice.

[Gurth]

clean up with a sharp hobby knife, files, and sandpaper.

Only saw, sand and file resin if you really have to. The dust isn’t safe to breathe in, so try and keep it to an absolute minimum. Saw through the casting blocks with the minimum number of cuts, and then preferably clean up with a knife, since you’re hardly likely to breathe in resin slivers. If you do need to sand the parts, do so with wet-and-dry sandpaper, used wet.

[Lucien Eilam]

You won't inhale any dust because you're wearing your respirator, like the instructions told you.

 

Any glue recommendations while we are on the topic of FW?

(Gel) superglue and pins for anything load-bearing. The only time I've ever needed to use anything more was for the base of a Lucius drop pod. Don't forget to wash everything first.

[Crizza]

Uh, I have a question about resin...
I only worked with the stuff of GW and a recast from ebay.
What about the resin of FW? I heard it is cancer-causing and one should wear a mask?
Or was my local GW vendor fooling me to prevent buying FWstuff?

[Lucien Eilam]

What about the resin of FW? I heard it is cancer-causing and one should wear a mask?

 

It's not carcinogenic. You should wear a mask when working with anything that creates fine dust, which sawing, filing or sanding resin will do in great quantities.

[klisof]

Any fine particles can potentially cause problems if inhaled, FW resin is no worse than resin from any other company. The size of particles and amount inhaled are significant factors..

[Grotsmasha]

 

What about the resin of FW? I heard it is cancer-causing and one should wear a mask?

 

It's not carcinogenic. You should wear a mask when working with anything that creates fine dust, which sawing, filing or sanding resin will do in great quantities.

 

 

 

Any fine particles can potentially cause problems if inhaled, FW resin is no worse than resin from any other company. The size of particles and amount inhaled are significant factors..

 

This is true.....but it is also true of GW's plastic. Basically don't "dust" of your area via blowing your table or some such, place it into a bin of vacuum it up. 

[White Wolf]

With regards to resin dust - wet sand - masks are ineffective unless specifically face fitted. Or use extraction such as an airbrush booth.

If you have stubble they are even more ineffective - 1 day's growth of stubble reduces the effectiveness of a mask by 95% (source - Health and Safety Laboratory - UK)

ATB WW

(Health and Safety bloke.....)

[SW1]

With regards to resin dust - wet sand - masks are ineffective unless specifically face fitted. Or use extraction such as an airbrush booth.

If you have stubble they are even more ineffective - 1 day's growth of stubble reduces the effectiveness of a mask by 95% (source - Health and Safety Laboratory - UK)

ATB WW

(Health and Safety bloke.....)

+1

From bloke who in other thread read this, thought crumbs that can't be right and then checked through h&s at work. It's spot on advice!!! :tu:

[old git]

On a side note, don't throw the tabs away. They make nice additions to terrain as concrete barricades or the like.

[Gurth]

You can use them for all sorts of other things as well. If you need, for example, a rectangular block on a model, a piece of resin sprue can come in quite handy if it’s near the right size — it's often far easier this way than trying to build the same thing from plastic card. The resin is very easy to carve, so you can make it into all kinds of shapes with relative ease given a sharp knife.

[Lucien Eilam]

The H&S guidelines are sound (they can be found here, if you're interested), but do bear in mind they're based on requirements up to and including working daily in an environment where the air is saturated with toxic gases, microscopic floating asbestos and other hazards, where even the slightest leak can add up over weeks and months to a major risk to your health (…and a major lawsuit for the employer).
 
Being in the presence of a fraction of a gram of comparatively large grained, heavier-than-air, non-toxic resin dust every so often isn't really in the same league. It's well worth getting properly fitted for a respirator and trained to use it, but your toy soldier hobby isn't going to kill you.

[Audemus]

I'm honestly not sure if these will work for everyone or not but when I was making my Marauder Destroyer I'm fairly certain I would have gone mad without these tools. Please note with the file you need to be in a well ventilated area and preferably with face mask of some kind. Also, it's 100% better to file/cut to little than to over due it, green stuff is magical but it's not going to repair major mistakes with this file. I'd say leave it out if you're not comfortable with that and you probably won't need these unless you go for some of their larger models at some point.

QEP Diamond Grit Porcelain Tile File

Milwaukee 6 Inch Folding Jab Saw

Remove the stock saw and put on one these (Yes the Folding Jab Saw is able to use these saw blades):

6 in. 14 TPI Double Duty Super Sawzall The Torch Reciprocating Saw Blades

Those links got me through the horror show that was my Marauder Destroyer and overkill or not, I'm glad I have them around should I need them for things in the future.

[geektom]

You can use them for all sorts of other things as well. If you need, for example, a rectangular block on a model, a piece of resin sprue can come in quite handy if it’s near the right size — it's often far easier this way than trying to build the same thing from plastic card. The resin is very easy to carve, so you can make it into all kinds of shapes with relative ease given a sharp knife.

Yes, I saved the bigger blocks for that reason. Some of them would make great terrain, too. Concrete barriers, tank traps, etc.