DuskRaider's 40K Nurgle - An Experiment in Flesh and Machine

[Augustus b'Raass]

WOW

 

Just.... wow.

 

Fast and well done for sure. I think I'm in love. ;) 

 

I have to say I think his left leg (his left, not ours) would benefit if you sculpted flesh and gore along the ankle as well, semi-covering the foot as well. It'd start looking like someone suffering from Elephantiasis (google images for a lovely time of inspiration and disgust). :tu:

[DuskRaider]

Hmmm... I was afraid to cover the Knight mechanical parts com0petely, but that may work well. I also filled in the icon on the fist.

 

Screw it, blubber foot here we come.

[DuskRaider]

How's this?

 

[Augustus b'Raass]

It looks great! I even think you could do some more - make it a really gruesome elephantitis foot - where the floppy skin is hanging even over his ankle and touching the ground. Like so-ish?

Hidden Content

[DuskRaider]

Actually that's not a bad idea. I don't want to cover up too much detail from the Glottkin but I like that idea. I'll probably have to bulk out the other side too, though.... although, having it assymetrical may be pretty cool. Edited July 22, 2018 by DuskRaider

[DuskRaider]

Alright, this is the last update I'm doing. This thing is getting primed tomorrow come hell or high water. FINAL FOOT MOD.

 

[Augustus b'Raass]

That looks fantastic and even better than how I imagined it! Well done! I'm very impressed by your GS skills - I always have a lot of trouble making folds like that. After the ETL, maybe you could do a tut? :D

[Krakendoomcool]

That looks fantastic and even better than how I imagined it! Well done! I'm very impressed by your GS skills - I always have a lot of trouble making folds like that. After the ETL, maybe you could do a tut? :D

Yes, great idea. I love a tutorial and would be interested to see how you did this.

[Doghouse]

Insanely cool knight, that is some fantastic GS work. :tu:

[DuskRaider]

Well now I don't know about a tutorial... I really don't know what I'm doing, lol. Seriously, I use way too much green stuff, I can't smooth for to save my life either. It's mainly just stretching out a piece of the stuff and working it into the model. Just have to make sure you get the sag right and there's some stretch marks from the weight pulling it down.

 

I did decide to have different sized buboes on the model, so I opened up one of my 12 ga. birdshot shells along with using .177 caliber BBs. One recommendation I can make is even if you're not doing extensive green work sculpting, still try to embed the pox and boils a bit into the flesh so it doesn't look like they're just sitting on the surface. This becomes more important the bigger the buboe is.

 

And thank you very much, Doghouse!

[Augustus b'Raass]

Just have to make sure you get the sag right and there's some stretch marks from the weight pulling it down.

Haha and this is exactly what I have so much trouble with... So maybe my request isn't so much about a tutorial, but more: how do you do that sagging and those stretch marks? :)

[DuskRaider]

Hmm... well, what I do is mix together a nice big chunk of green stuff. I shape it into an oblong piece resembling a smile then I attach it to the model.

 

By the way, remember to keep your fingers and tools wet. Anyhow, I make sure to smooth out my prints... this became a huge pain in the ass after a while since there's so much on the Knight. I actually had to walk away from it for the night on Friday so the putty could cure enough to handle the damn thing.

 

So once you've smoothed it out you want to stretch it in both directions vertically, more so going toward the bottom of the model. Short, sharp pulls up and long smooth pulls down. The upward pull doesn't have to and shouldn't be uniform while the putty your pushing down has to be.

 

You want the very bottom to be rounded and I usually pull it away from the model a little to show it's a separate hunk of flesh from the rest while also giving it depth and a place for my washes to settle into when I eventually paint it.

 

I hope I explained it well. It's not easy to put into words, I'm horrible at tutorials lol

[Krakendoomcool]

The stretch is interesting. I’ve never attempted that. It’s always great to hear how someone else does it. Especially for Nurgle stuff, the bigger the repertoire the better. I have however smushed my details with my hands while working on the other side of the model before it was dry. Many, many times.

[hushrong]

Lordy! Now that’s a knight blessed by Papa Nurgle! I am seriously in love with the corruption and growths!

[DuskRaider]

@KDC: Yeah, you can kind of see where I've done some pushing and pulling in either direction to achieve the look. Some of it may be hidden under additional details I've added, like further folds molded in or poxes and boils. I did, in fact, look at photos of individuals with maladies such as elephantitis and parasitic infections, something I may explore more in further models. 

 

@hush: I live to please Grandfather. I have a feeling he'll be very pleased in the coming months between my Makabius army, Kill Team and other projects I have lingering around my work area / in my diseased brain pan. I did preview one such project with the Warhound and I'm contemplating whether I should do a proper reveal sooner rather than later. Green stuff attention is needed on them first, though. 

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

That looks fantastic!

[DuskRaider]

Thanks a ton, BCK. Means a lot coming from the green stuff master himself 

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Credit where it's due. :) I can't wait to see it painted. 

[DuskRaider]

I'll get there soon enough... speaking of painting though, I've got to get something off of my chest.

 

So as I've said, I've been painting my son's House Cadmus Knights. The armour panels are all done and if I'll be honest I think it's the cleanest paint job I've ever done so I'm pretty happy with that. However, I picked up the Citadel Leadbelcher primer for the frames & weapons thinking it would cut time and the cost of multiple paint pots of Leadbelcher, thus making this a bit easier. I go to start the wash process and it's like the damn thing has been covered in Thompson's Water Seal. The wash seems to be beading up in places and not only negating the whole reason for purchasing the (more expensive) primer but wasting more time on it. Has anyone else experienced this? I shook the damn can good and I don't even know if that would contribute to anything more than runny primer in the first place (which it wasn't). 

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Not sure why it's doing that, but try putting some kind of gloss coat on top of it; Future Floor Wax (or whatever it's currently called) or the like. If that doesn't bead up on the paint, you'll be able to put the wash on top of the gloss. 

[Charlo]

Disgustingly delightful. Pestilently perfect.

[Spiky Norman]

I'll get there soon enough... speaking of painting though, I've got to get something off of my chest.

 

So as I've said, I've been painting my son's House Cadmus Knights. The armour panels are all done and if I'll be honest I think it's the cleanest paint job I've ever done so I'm pretty happy with that. However, I picked up the Citadel Leadbelcher primer for the frames & weapons thinking it would cut time and the cost of multiple paint pots of Leadbelcher, thus making this a bit easier. I go to start the wash process and it's like the damn thing has been covered in Thompson's Water Seal. The wash seems to be beading up in places and not only negating the whole reason for purchasing the (more expensive) primer but wasting more time on it. Has anyone else experienced this? I shook the damn can good and I don't even know if that would contribute to anything more than runny primer in the first place (which it wasn't). 

That's odd. I have happily used the Leadbelcher spray for my entire Primaris army, and have not had any problems at all.

I've never experienced washes beading up, so I'm not sure what the best solution would be, but matt or satin coating should make the surface less smooth and then probably eliminate the beading.

[Augustus b'Raass]

I'll get there soon enough... speaking of painting though, I've got to get something off of my chest.

 

So as I've said, I've been painting my son's House Cadmus Knights. The armour panels are all done and if I'll be honest I think it's the cleanest paint job I've ever done so I'm pretty happy with that. However, I picked up the Citadel Leadbelcher primer for the frames & weapons thinking it would cut time and the cost of multiple paint pots of Leadbelcher, thus making this a bit easier. I go to start the wash process and it's like the damn thing has been covered in Thompson's Water Seal. The wash seems to be beading up in places and not only negating the whole reason for purchasing the (more expensive) primer but wasting more time on it. Has anyone else experienced this? I shook the damn can good and I don't even know if that would contribute to anything more than runny primer in the first place (which it wasn't). 

Not sure what kind of properties Thompson's Water Seal has - does it make the wash runnier  (high surface tension) or doesn't it run well enough (low surface tension)? In the first case, try to use Matt varnish; while if the latter, use Gloss Varnish.  

[DuskRaider]

Not Knight related, but I received some more terrain today and decided to piece it all together. As I had said earlier, I've permanently assembled most of it into larger pieces as the modularity just wasn't working well (it kept falling apart).

 

I was hoping it would look more substantial. Maybe I need to start building up, but I'm not too impressed at this point. Mind you I just slapped it all together for a photo op.

 

[Sgt. Blank]

Terrain looks nice, fills that table up pretty well.

 

As far as the metal primer, I've had a similar issue with Army Painters gun metal primer - it covers well but I've had it end up sort of a semi-gloss or satin and washes seem to run rather than pooling in recesses. Leadbelcher

 

As far has how to fix it, full cost might work; I just painted a thin layer of Leadbelcher over top. I didn't save as much time as I'd hoped but the washes worked well enough afterwards.