Clouseau pattern Rhino project

[BugloUglo]

Hi all!

 

This is my first post here, but I have been lurking on and off for years before recently creating an account.

 

I havent been playing 40k since fourth ed due to reasons, but started all once upon a time way back in the dark ages of Rouge Trader.

Since then life got in the way, and kids and other priorities took over and all my games & minis was stashed away in storage for almost a decade.

 

Anyway, recently me an a few friends decided to try out some 40k again, and so the urge to build stuff and paint was once again awoken from its dormancy.

When digging out my White Scars from storage I realised that my only bike-challenged squad of regular marines didn't have a ride, so I have to give them a Rhino - the Emperors finest should never have to WALK up to the heretics/xenos/whatever to smite them down.

 

Where a sane person would just waltz in to the nearest GW store and buy a Razorback (at least back in my time you should never buy just a regular Rhino and miss out on some sweet extra bitz from the Razorback or similar sprue), I have to be different, and probably stupid - so I decided to build my own Rhino out of plasticard and a few bitz and pieces.

 

So, this will be my build log of my Clouseau pattern Rhino :-)

 

[edit] 

Once I figure out how to upload pictures here, that is...

[/edit] 

[Brother Tyler]

Are you going to paint it pink?

 

Hosting & Posting Images at the B&C

[BugloUglo]

Are you going to paint it pink?

 

Hosting & Posting Images at the B&C

I don't think that the Khan would approve a pink car, so not this time 

 

Thanks for the link, but HOLY  , that's lots of rules to read through just to post a few images. I will try to read through it all. 

Edited October 16, 2017 by BugloUglo

[BugloUglo]

Ok, a few pictures of my progress so far then. 

 

This is how it all started - printed out the only two drawings of the Clouseau Pattern I could find, and cut the basic shapes of the sides from some foamcore board and 1mm plasticard. 

 

Added some details to the sides. 

 

Sometime around this stage I decided to build two Rhinos simultaneously, and try to build one of them in sections to perhaps try to create some latex molds for resin in the future. 

 

Dry-fitting the doors. I used two Land Raider doors and built a new frame around them. 

 

First side is mostly done, except for the tracks that I will have to figure out how to build next. 

 

That's basically as far as I have come so far in the week or so since I started. 

[Calyptra]

I had Hercule Poirot mixed up with Inspector Clouseau, so it's fortunate I googled before I attempted to be witty.

 

Instead of a witicism, I think I need to caution you instead. The first sentence of the overview in Clouseau's Wikipedia entry is this:

 

Clouseau is an inept and incompetent police detective in the French Sûreté, whose investigations quickly turn to chaos.

[BugloUglo]

Well, actually the plans is from an old member here called Clouseau (at least I think he was a member here too) - he designed this version of the Rhino, and it was informally called Clouseau Pattern due to this.

With some Google-Fu you should be able to find some pictures of his awesome Pink Panther-themed Space Marine chapter 

[malika666]

Where are thr pics of the Rhino?

[BugloUglo]

Where are thr pics of the Rhino?

Pics of my Rhino? In post #4 are the pics I have uploaded so far...

[apologist]

Yes, good ol' Clouseau – he had some amazing conversions. The swiss cheese eldar and amazing Carnifex were amongst my favourites. Really glad to see you working on a Rhino; I remember being stunned by the original, and your version is already looking excellent.

[BugloUglo]

A small update on this, although I haven't progressed that much in the last week or so. 

This is just a mock-up with the roof and engine attached with blue-tac. 

 

I am trying to figure out a good way to build the tracks, so if anyone's got a good idea on this please let me know.

I started out building them one by one, but I find it hard to cut the tubes in half along the length of it so I end up wasting like 75% on bad cuts :-(

Then I made a mold out of Blue Stuff/Oyumaru and built three tracks at the time out of ProCreate (which turned out too soft) and then Green Stuff. 

I guess the Green Stuff parts will work, but it takes so much time waiting for each mold to cure... 

 

[Major_Gilbear]

Two thoughts:

 

1) Build a jig for cutting your tubes in half. It would need sides and a razor blade screwed down tight, and you would then use a pusher of some sort to force the tube against the blade without cutting yourself. Sort of like a vegetable mandolin, if that makes sense? It would not normally make sense for a dozen parts, but if you're making 50+, then it would be worth the initial time investment to get them all perfect.

 

2) Make four or five moulds, and use Milliput yellow-grey for casting. It's best if you add a little Greenstuff to the Milliput as well, because whilst it takes longer to fully cure, the end result is extremely tough and can be sanded or cut as needed. I would suggest about 75% Milliput to 25% GS. Mix each of the four components separately first, then the two GS together, then the two Milliput together, then finally the mixed GS with the mixed Milliput. It's vitally important to ensure that they are as well-kneaded and well-mixed as possible if you want them to cure properly, and you'll also find that they cast better that way too. It might take over a day to harden fully, hence why having multiple moulds ready is a good idea.

[Brother Tyler]

I had Hercule Poirot mixed up with Inspector Clouseau, so it's fortunate I googled before I attempted to be witty.

 

Instead of a witicism, I think I need to caution you instead. The first sentence of the overview in Clouseau's Wikipedia entry is this:

 

Clouseau is an inept and incompetent police detective in the French Sûreté, whose investigations quickly turn to chaos.

 

 

Well, actually the plans is from an old member here called Clouseau (at least I think he was a member here too) - he designed this version of the Rhino, and it was informally called Clouseau Pattern due to this.

With some Google-Fu you should be able to find some pictures of his awesome Pink Panther-themed Space Marine chapter 

Yes, Clouseau was a popular hobbyist back in the late '90's and early 2000's, with his Internet site, Clouseaus' Corner. He showed lots of interesting conversions, including his rhino, which has come to be called the "Clouseau Pattern Rhino" (and other derivatives). He also had his own Space Marine Chapter, the Pink Panthers. Hence my question. I don't recall if he was a member of the B&C at that time, but that was during the ezBoard days and he may not have created a new account when we switched over to Invision.

 

As far as the tank tracks go, you might also find this article useful.

[BugloUglo]

Two thoughts:

 

1) Build a jig for cutting your tubes in half. It would need sides and a razor blade screwed down tight, and you would then use a pusher of some sort to force the tube against the blade without cutting yourself. Sort of like a vegetable mandolin, if that makes sense? It would not normally make sense for a dozen parts, but if you're making 50+, then it would be worth the initial time investment to get them all perfect.

 

2) Make four or five moulds, and use Milliput yellow-grey for casting. It's best if you add a little Greenstuff to the Milliput as well, because whilst it takes longer to fully cure, the end result is extremely tough and can be sanded or cut as needed. I would suggest about 75% Milliput to 25% GS. Mix each of the four components separately first, then the two GS together, then the two Milliput together, then finally the mixed GS with the mixed Milliput. It's vitally important to ensure that they are as well-kneaded and well-mixed as possible if you want them to cure properly, and you'll also find that they cast better that way too. It might take over a day to harden fully, hence why having multiple moulds ready is a good idea.

 

 

I've never tried Milliput, so I'll give it a try - when you say yellow-grey, is it the normal Milliput in red package you mean?

 

Yes, Clouseau was a popular hobbyist back in the late '90's and early 2000's, with his Internet site, Clouseaus' Corner. He showed lots of interesting conversions, including his rhino, which has come to be called the "Clouseau Pattern Rhino" (and other derivatives). He also had his own Space Marine Chapter, the Pink Panthers. Hence my question. I don't recall if he was a member of the B&C at that time, but that was during the ezBoard days and he may not have created a new account when we switched over to Invision.

As far as the tank tracks go, you might also find this article useful.

Should there have been a link included here somwhere? Or what article are you referring to?

 

Thanks for both of your comments!

[Major_Gilbear]

 

Two thoughts:

 

1) Build a jig for cutting your tubes in half. It would need sides and a razor blade screwed down tight, and you would then use a pusher of some sort to force the tube against the blade without cutting yourself. Sort of like a vegetable mandolin, if that makes sense? It would not normally make sense for a dozen parts, but if you're making 50+, then it would be worth the initial time investment to get them all perfect.

 

2) Make four or five moulds, and use Milliput yellow-grey for casting. It's best if you add a little Greenstuff to the Milliput as well, because whilst it takes longer to fully cure, the end result is extremely tough and can be sanded or cut as needed. I would suggest about 75% Milliput to 25% GS. Mix each of the four components separately first, then the two GS together, then the two Milliput together, then finally the mixed GS with the mixed Milliput. It's vitally important to ensure that they are as well-kneaded and well-mixed as possible if you want them to cure properly, and you'll also find that they cast better that way too. It might take over a day to harden fully, hence why having multiple moulds ready is a good idea.

 

 

I've never tried Milliput, so I'll give it a try - when you say yellow-grey, is it the normal Milliput in red package you mean?

 

 

Yes, this stuff: