Lord Uglor Does Gryphonicus

[Lord Uglor]

Good day all!  It has been a long time since I posted anything on a forum, but with the release of Adeptus Titanicus, I feel the need to slowly return to doing so.

I started playing the original way back in 88, and while I had played some Rogue Trader at that point, AT was the first GW game to really capture my imagination.  I played the game to death, incorporating all the new rules I could ( thanks to White Dwarf), and loved all aspects of Titan vs Titan combat.  I never got into Space Marine, though I did buy some models to invigorate narrative missions, and never got into Titan Legions.  I have always loved Legio Gryphonicus, Gryphonne IV forms the basis for my Ad Mech forces too.  I am also more of an old school guy, in that I base my Gryphonicus off of the old colour scheme found in White Dwarf and Codex Titanicus.  While I don't dislike the new scheme, it just doesn't sit right with me, and that's the beauty of the hobby.  Both you and I can paint our legions how we wish!

I have finished a Warlord (95% done on a second), a Reaver and my first knight banner from House Cadmus so far, with 2 more Reavers purchased, another knight banner to be built.  Eventually when the Warhounds are released, there will be 4 or so of them.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/WarlordFront.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/WarlordBack.jpg

My first Warlord, no name as of yet.  All weapons, and head, are magnetized, and I have some 3d printed Laser Blasters, Turbo Laser Destructors and even a Sunfury Plasma that are being worked on currently.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/ReaverFront.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/ReaverBack.jpg

 

This is the first Reaver, also nameless.  His weapons are magnetized as well, using the supplied holes for the carapace weapons, and at the elbows for the arms.  This Reaver is the fire support platform, the second is armed with 2 fists and will be the close combat specialist, and the last will have a fist (or chainfist) and 2 ranged weapons.

 

Any comments, good or bad, are appreciated.

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Good job. Are the mottled gray portions of the armor meant to be camouflaged? The markings seem too neat to be mere mistakes.

[Lord Uglor]

@Bjorn Firewalker- The gray mottling was how the original colour scheme was.  I have skewed mine a bit darker than the original because I like the gradient.  On my 40k warhound I use an airbrush so the effect isn't quite so...dot like, but I still think it works.

[Supe robot gangster #1]

Very nice! Looking good! What kind of maniple you going for? Or just building and painting whatever?

[Captain Semper]

Very nice work, the mottling is very effective. Could you get us through the steps? I think I might try something similar with red and rust tones... ;)

[Lord Uglor]

@ Supe robot gangster #1- Thank you!  I have no current plans for a specific maniple, I'm just getting together a force that will allow me the flexibility to choose any

 

@ Captain Semper-  Thank you!  I'll try to remember to take some pics as I work on the second Reaver tomorrow.  I'll include a pic of my 40k Warhound carapace to show how it should look when done with an airbrush.  I only use my airbrush for big applications because I hate cleaning it between colours.

[Captain Semper]

Look forward to it! :tu:

 

This is indeed a very useful technique - I really think this opens up a number of options for the more esoteric schemes...

[Achinadav]

The stippling is really effective. I think it adds real texture and interest to the armour panels.

[Burni]

Great work, always like that scheme. Can you go into more details regarding the Reaver magnetising? Position and size?

[Lord Uglor]

@ Achinadav-  Thanks!  I always loved the scheme from Codex Titanicus, and use it as the basis for both my 30k/40k and AT titans.

 

@ Burni-  Well, here goes!

 

Step One:  Remove the upper arm from the Reaver sprue, and trim off the locater stud on the flat part of the elbow.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step1.jpg

 

Step Two:  Find the center of the flat area and carefully drill a pilot hole up the arm, as perpendicularly as you can.  I used a 1/16" drill bit.  I then widen it to the diameter of the magnet I'm using (1/8"x3/16" cylinder), using an 1/8" drill bit.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step2.jpg

 

Step Three:  Affix the magnet into the hole using some sort of thin adhesive.  I use Gorilla Glue super glue.  I press it down on my cutting mat to ensure it is flush.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step3.jpg

 

Step Four:  Using the Laser Blaster as the example, I build half of the rear portion of the weapon, using regular Testor's plastic glue.  I glue on part of the gun shroud so I have a way to locate the upper arm in later steps.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step4.jpg

 

Step Five:  Mixing a 2 part epoxy, I use JB Kwik, I put a small dollop of the mixed epoxy just under where the upper arm will sit.  I use the epoxy because I don't want to mess around.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step5.jpg

 

Step Six:  Placing the upper arm in its recess on the top of the gun, I take a second magnet and let it snap into the epoxy.  I make sure the upper arm is seated properly and spin it around in place to make sure the lower magnet is where it should be.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step6.jpg

 

Step Seven:  While the epoxy is still pliable, I affix the second half of the weapon using plastic glue.  This is just in case I have put some epoxy where it shouldn't go, which might make me unable to close it up once dried without some surgery to the plastic itself.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/step7.jpg

 

You can then glue it into the shoulder joint at your leisure.

 

A couple of quick points.  Always ensure your polarities are good.  If you plan on having multiple Reavers, you want to ensure that weapons are interchangeable between different Reavers and different arms.  Drilling your pilot holes should be done slowly, both for the safety of your fingers and the part itself.

 

Sorry for the slightly blurry pics, but I think it still gets the point across.

 

Hope this helps!

[Lord Uglor]

While I'm working on my carapace colour tutorial, here is how it looks on my in progress Warhound.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Legplate.jpg

[Captain Idaho]

Lovely work. Definitely no negative comments! ;)

[Lord Uglor]

The first of my Cadmus Knights.  I chose Cadmus because of their affiliation with Gryphonicus, which carries over into my 40k knight force.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/KnightsFront.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/KnightsBack.jpg

 

I've used a bit more yellow on them, paint wise, to bring a little unity across the force between knights and titans, and story wise to represent honours bestowed upon the knights by the Legio.

[Captain Semper]

This is a very helpful step-by-step magnetisation tutorial Uglor - thank you very much for it! One thing I can say, it is not for the faint-hearted! :D it is a pity that the Reaver is so demanding to magnetite, especially since the Warlord is so easy (practically designed for that purpose)!

 

The knights are also cool, the treatment of yellow a nice touch! excellent basing basing too!

 

Keep up the good work!

[Achinadav]

Letting the first magnet locate the second is genius! I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for posting the guide. When I do get a reaver, I'll follow it.

[Lord Uglor]

Alrighty then.  I have been asked for a step by step of the carapace, so here goes.

 

I start with my 6 paints.  I label them separately so I don't lose them or use them for anything but titans, of any size.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme1.jpg

 

The paints are as follows:

WG (War Griffon) Base- approximately 50/50 mix of Black and Eshin Grey.

WG1- Eshin Grey

WG2- Mechanicus Standard Grey

WG3- Dawnstone

WG4- 50/50 mix of Dawnstone and Celestra Grey

WG5- Celestra Grey

 

Step One:  After removing the desire piece from the sprue, I prime it with Chaos Black spray, then base it with Retributor Gold spray.  When that's dry, I do a liberal shading only on the rim of the carapace with Agrax Earthshade.  When that dries, I drybrush the rim with Vallejo Game Colour Polished Gold.  Then a coat of my WG Base on all flat areas.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme2.jpg

 

Step Two:  Using the WG 1 paint, and thinning the paint down a fair bit, I start painting small circles of colour covering the whole of the carapace, spaced a little so some of the base colour shows through the gaps.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme3.jpg

 

Step Three:  Using my second colour, WG 2, I start applying more small circles.  These are started further away from the rim of the carapace, and the goal is to place them in the gaps of the first circles, leaving some of the previous layer showing.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme4.jpg

 

Step Three:  WG 3, is used next, again starting further away and in the gaps of the previous colour.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme5.jpg

 

Step Four:  More of the same, using the next colour, WG 4.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme6.jpg

 

Step Five:  More of the same, with WG 5.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme7.jpg

 

Step Six:  I next use Agrax Earthshade to draw a line between the rim of the carapace and the flat, making sure to put a small dot on the rivets.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Scheme8.jpg

 

After this, I'll hit the part with a protective gloss layer.  I use Rustoleum Gloss Clear spray.  Any decals would go on next, followed by a spray of Testor's Dullcote to take the shine off and seal any decals.

 

When I do this on a 30/40k titan I use an airbrush, and the result is much less stark, much more blended.  I still spray small circles and still diminish the amount spray in each successive layer.

 

Hope this helps.

[Mendi Warrior]

Gorgeous! Simply gorgeous!

 

Very good tutorials too. Added to my bookmarks.

[Captain Semper]

Great tutorial!

 

Do you spay on any washes to blend everything together? Or just the successive... dotting (for want of a better word :D)

[Lord Uglor]

Don't know how much you'll miss something till its gone!  Glad B&C is back!  I've been working on more stuff, and will post it once I get some pics taken.

 

@Captain Semper:  No, the only washing I do is toward the edge of the carapace.  Truly never thought of washing it all.  

[Captain Semper]

Maybe rightly so, the end result seems very rewarding! :)

[Lord Uglor]

Okay, got more pics!

 

Second Reaver, Fistius Maximus.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Reaver2front.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Reaver2side2.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Reaver2side_1.jpg

 

With Fistius I only magnetized his carapace mount.

 

I finished my second Warlord, Insertus Namus, and with him I built a custom head which is a little beefier.  I plan on using him with a power claw once there is a weapon available from Forge World, or I can find a printable version.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warlord2front.jpg

 

On his shoulders are Turbo Laser Destructors, which I printed from a file I found on thingiverse.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warlord2side.jpg

 

A close up pic of his head.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warlord2Head.jpg

 

Continued in next post...

[Lord Uglor]

So in this post I'll highlight some of the weapon options which I've found and printed out using a 3D printer.  Are these prints perfect? No, but they do allow for wysiwyg.  I'm just sick of waiting for Forge World to get their act together and release stuff.

 

These are carapace mounted Turbo Laser Destructors I printed out.  They are the same file that I used for the Warlord shoulder mounted weapons, I just scaled them to 90% and created a mount/base using some sprue bits.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Dualreaver.jpg

 

Next is the Warlord based Sunfury Plasma Annihilator , and on the shoulders are Laser Blasters.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warlordsunfury.jpg

 

Same Warlord, now with a Macro-Gatling Cannon

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warlordgatling.jpg

 

Finally a family pic of completed titans.  My local hobby store got late shipped their warhounds so I still haven't got them....soon.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Familly.jpg

 

Hope you enjoy, please leave comments!

[Captain Semper]

Hey, they look good! This pattern is very effective and the “dirtying” of the yellow works very well.

 

Where did the exotic weapons of the Warlords come from?

 

Also, does the Revears’ power fist fit both hands or did you convert

[Lord Uglor]

Thanks, Captain Semper.  I got the weapon files off of www.thingiverse.com and printed them using my Ultimaker 2 3d printer.  The reaver fist is able to be made either right or left handed.

[Captain Semper]

Good to know. Great work man, they look excellent all together! :tu:

 

Any plans as to what to do next?