Mendi Warrior's Adeptus Titanicus project log

[Chaeron]

Superb again Mendi Warrior - your tabletop will look incredible!

[Mendi Warrior]

Wow, those look fantastic! Of all my modeling skills cutting plastic straight to make buildings ain’t one of them.

Thanks a lot.

Really, just give it a try, nothing too difficult, only a bit of geometry. What you do with 3D printing is imho more complex.

The roof is made of cardboard (a cereal box actually). It only involves a ruler and a lot of measuring and drawing lines at the right places before grabbing a pair of scissors and cutting. I only used plasticard to cover the angles (L-shape for the most part) and the sides of the tower not made of civitas imperialis components.

The site crashed yesterday while I was writing this

Superb again Mendi Warrior - your tabletop will look incredible!

Thanks a lot too

We'll see, I still need to paint everything

I have a few more ideas I'll be experimenting with

Little teaser

Edited October 25, 2018 by Mendi Warrior

[Fajita Fan]

3D printing is just doing Legos on a computer screen, I have such hard time cutting plastic to the right angles so that corners line up.

 

You know the FW Basilisk with the armored shell? I bought a Basilisk and tried to make that and ended up with something that looked more like a tent assembled by a farsighted child.

[Mendi Warrior]

I can imagine I don't always succeed on the first try and it can take days before I arrive at my desired outcome, try again, try harder but never despair

Not much progress lately, bought another two reavers today (they were the last 2 in stock and I had been eying them since a few days) + magnets and some paints (about time I give it a start / try).

Trying a few combinations with the bell tower. Most is modular, the larger the footprint, the more components you use so this can fly fast, hence good to combine with foamboard / cardboard / plasticard and other stuff if possible.

Edited October 27, 2018 by Mendi Warrior

[Fajita Fan]

I’d fight on that.

[Mendi Warrior]

Thanks

One of my first creations, it is the lower part of the one on the right in my previous post. As I wanted a large footprint and still save a couple components, I combined with some foamboard pimped with sprue parts, q-tip parts and some plastic binding that often comes around big boxes

[Fajita Fan]

I have plenty of styrofoam for cheap buildings, I should turn all of my AT terrain into one centerpiece. How many actual terrain kits do you have there?

[Captain Semper]

:o

 

This is really... intimidating! All these skills combined - and the result of really unique buildings is totally awesome! This is truly inspiring stuff - keep doing it Mendi! :tu:

[Brother Dallo]

Looking really good Mendi. How do you find the big flat building affects line of sight in games? I was building some building sprues yesterday and I went for multiple smaller buildings as I felt it would ultimately provide more cover and therefore more tactical games.

 

I will admit that the big centrepiece builds do look really good on a table though.

 

Dallo

[Mendi Warrior]

Thanks guys, I appreciate.

 

In total I have the equivalent of 2 civitas imperialis sector boxes. I still have quite a few components left. I am now trying to add some modules I could use and reuse but that requires a little bit of planning which I haven't tackled yet. Still many doors left and I try to avoid having them high up and opening on nothing (like on one of the previous pics).

 

With some exceptions of course, I try to work with modules which are either 1 level high or represent a corner or a facade.

 

For instance, the one in the last few pics is all glued together, it makes a 4x4 footprint. It uses 10 of the higher components and 1 of the high doors. In a civitas imperialis sector box, you respectively have 20 and 4 of those. I would have used 6 more if I had not used my little foamboard + small components trick.

 

On the previous pics, with the bell tower, if you take the one on the left, there are 7 modules in total: the bell structure, the small squared module beneath it, then the roof (4x2 footprint and only "cost" me 2 civitas imperialis components + 2 cities of death components + cardboard + foamboard), the first floor front, the first floor back, the ground level front, the ground level back. For the one in the middle, I just replaced the roof module with two levels of which the one with the doors is 2 identical modules (front and back 1x2 footprint) and the other one is a 2x2 footprint module. The last one on the right is simply the one in the middle put on top of the large 4x4 footprint, which itself is put on 2cm thick polystyrene surrounded by cities of death components, a staircase or access ramp still to be added.

 

One point of attention, the civitas imperialis components are of 3 different heights. You can combine the small one and medium one together but you'll end up short about 1mm in comparison to the big one. So if you combine these together keep that in mind otherwise if you stack another module above them it could lean a bit.

 

More later 

[Mendi Warrior]

Looking really good Mendi. How do you find the big flat building affects line of sight in games? I was building some building sprues yesterday and I went for multiple smaller buildings as I felt it would ultimately provide more cover and therefore more tactical games.

 

I will admit that the big centrepiece builds do look really good on a table though.

 

Dallo

 

To be honest I have yet to play a game. I am, so far, more a modeler than a gamer.

 

Now, a big flat building will not really affect line of sight for warlords and reavers (except for the lower part of the legs I guess), it would likely obscure a good part of the warhounds and all of the knights.

 

To me, the interest of my 4x4 footprint building was to have a large piece of terrain on which I could stack several other modules to allow for good cover. I would say the higher, the better.

[Fajita Fan]

I’m a 99% modeler too but I would love to get in some games. It turns out there’s a decent group playing AT at my GW. :)

[Mendi Warrior]

Me too, definitely. Next big step will be to start painting all of that.

[Mendi Warrior]

Another little idea on how to break the cubic feel of the civitas imperialis stuff and "save" a few components while making a 2x2 footprint module, using foamboard and Q-tip (some finishing touches still required)

Dimensions on the top are perfect to fit inside of another module stacked above it, at the bottom they are just a little to big for that (to fix for the next one)

[Mendi Warrior]

A couple of pics of the previous building with additional modules.

[Fajita Fan]

Gonna make sure my friends never see this thread so they don’t make fun of my buildings. The little 40k bits as capstones to the spires are a great touch.

[Mendi Warrior]

Lol thanks a lot

First paint applied this afternoon: leadbelcher. I sprayed my knights (except heads and carapaces), warhounds, reavers, and warlords (except the weapons), as well as a couple of grey knights for 40K. After I'll have checked coverage is complete my next step will be to apply Nuln Oil and possible Agrax Earthshade too. Finally starting painting some models after a very long time not painting anything, crossing fingers (and reading/watching plenty of tutorials and great project logs).

[Mazer Rackham]

I can only echo Captain Semper - this thread is more full of bonkers mad skill than an egg has yolk.

 

Damn, that enthusiasm, pass it round!

 

MR.

Edited November 1, 2018 by Mazer Rackham

[Mendi Warrior]

Thanks! Indeed, and that is greatly emulating.

 

I should have used narrower wood planks to get better access for spraying from below instead of just from above and laterally, coverage is not perfect. Hopefully my package with leadbelcher gets delivered tomorrow.

[Fajita Fan]

I was gonna say those can’t all be knights.

 

Just a thought - Rustoleoum aluminum paint+primer is brighter than Leadbelcher but it’s less than $4 a can. Good coverage and it can be shaded darker if you need.

[Fajita Fan]

I was gonna say those can’t all be knights.

 

Just a thought - Rustoleoum aluminum paint+primer is brighter than Leadbelcher but it’s less than $4 a can. Good coverage and it can be shaded darker if you need.

[Mendi Warrior]

So far only 12 knights   (the others are 25 grey knights). Good to know, just need to find if that or an alternative can be found somewhere in Belgium (DIY stores are the first suspects there).

[Chaeron]

A production line worthy of any manufactorum - fantastic!

[Brother Dallo]

Those custom buildings are inspirational! Keep it up.

 

Dallo

[Mendi Warrior]

Thanks guys

A few shots of knights after a good wash with Nuln Oil

Partial progress on some more (still a lot to do)

Started magnetising the warlords (before painting), adding 5x1mm magnets in the specifically designed locations. The hole for the magnet on the left shoulder (on the right hand side in the pic) seems to be a little less deep than the one on the right shoulder which is a perfect fit.

I started building two additional reavers and this time I decided to drill the different locations I would put magnets to before actually gluing anything. This can make life a little bit easier.

So basically if you take the instructions notice, these will be used in steps 1, 16, 18, 21, 25, 28, 34, 36, 37.

For step 1 I drilled component A10 so I could insert a 3x2mm magnet. I previously used a 3x1mm magnet (with a steel ball in the torso), now I wanted to try something a bit stronger. For step 16 I drilled component A16 so I could insert a 3x1mm magnet instead of a 3mm diameter steel ball. I paid attention so as to use the same polarities as for my previous 2 reavers.

My little trick here is to use a weapon and a shoulder from a knight so I am sure to put my magnets in the correct direction.

1. Determining the correct direction

2. Preparing the magnet

3. Inserting the magnet (adding some glue on its sides as well as a drop of super glue behind it afterwards)

Same approach for the weapons (here the gatling blaster)

Just watch out not to put too much glue which could result in an unwanted thickness and prevent a perfect fit when assembling the weapon.

The "correct" direction is of course the one you have initially chosen.

Edited November 5, 2018 by Mendi Warrior