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Oh jeez!

 

I wouldn't waste money on more models. My go to is isopropyl alcohol. Usually get a litre of the stuff for £5 or so from ebay with shipping.

 

Eh, the model was scuffed anyway - when I tried scrubbing the primer off, one of his arms on his backpack broke and I couldn't find it. I recall trying to strip the primer off with the isopropyl alcohol with my Dark Angel Terminators, but that didn't work that well.

 

Have you tried a long Simple Green soak? It takes longer, but easier on the plastic than solvent based solutions.

 

Didn't have any, but the way that primer set on it, it wasn't coming off with anything, really. Plus with the arm on his backpack breaking, and consequently me not finding the piece, I had to get a new one. Shame, I was really proud of that conversion. *sigh*

 

As for why it happened, I got two theories - first one is that lately the spray I buy from my LGWS had a tendency (even after 30m to let it rest) to flake off if I put my finger on it like a powder. Happens about 25% of the time, but it does happen. The second thing is, I realised the humidity I was spraying at the new spray was too high. Thirdly this was a new spray - wraithbone with a contrast undercoat, the coat was far too runny, and thick as well, obscuring details. Which leads me to assume there might be a special way of doing things with said variety of spray? (Anyone care to comment on that?)

Edited by Skywrath

 

Oh jeez!

 

I wouldn't waste money on more models. My go to is isopropyl alcohol. Usually get a litre of the stuff for £5 or so from ebay with shipping.

 

Eh, the model was scuffed anyway - when I tried scrubbing the primer off, one of his arms on his backpack broke and I couldn't find it. I recall trying to strip the primer off with the isopropyl alcohol with my Dark Angel Terminators, but that didn't work that well.

 

Have you tried a long Simple Green soak? It takes longer, but easier on the plastic than solvent based solutions.

 

Didn't have any, but the way that primer set on it, it wasn't coming off with anything, really. Plus with the arm on his backpack breaking, and consequently me not finding the piece, I had to get a new one. Shame, I was really proud of that conversion. *sigh*

 

As for why it happened, I got two theories - first one is that lately the spray I buy from my LGWS had a tendency (even after 30m to let it rest) to flake off if I put my finger on it like a powder. Happens about 25% of the time, but it does happen. The second thing is, I realised the humidity I was spraying at the new spray was too high. Thirdly this was a new spray - wraithbone with a contrast undercoat, the coat was far too runny, and thick as well, obscuring details. Which leads me to assume there might be a special way of doing things with said variety of spray? (Anyone care to comment on that?)

 

 

It's a shame to have to discard such a good mini. Can you run down the steps you've used in trying to strip the paint. I've got some experience in restoration of this sort. I might be able to help with it. 

Well, let's see.

 

At first, what I usually do if I see the primer isn't acting the way it should, is to immediately put it underneath hot water and scrub. Usually if I do that within 2 minutes, there is no damage. So I did that first, but this time, the primer still stuck.

 

Secondly, I tried using hand sanitzer (with about 30ish percent of alcohol in it), then isopropyl, submerged it for 20ish minutes and scrubbed. Got some paint off it, but, still no dice. The consistency of the primer at that point was sticky and gooey, but it still stuck.

 

At that point I cut my loses and removed the head of the miniature to use in the new one, and ironically having much more success in cleaning that. Unfortunately I ran out of the isopropyl, so I'm going to pick some up later today (3am when writing this). The miniature itself, on top of said tool missing on backpack, is already thrown out, as well as the arm. I ordered another one to compensate, however. Still interested in hearing how you would have fixed things, for future reference though :smile.:

 

I also tested the primer again on my BC and my Apothecary (pictures soon), and this time it worked as it should - better in fact. Having a quick look at yesterday's humidity (which was 91%) it explained a lot. *sigh* it was a beautiful mini while it lasted :sad.:

Edited by Skywrath

Well, let's see.

 

At first, what I usually do if I see the primer isn't acting the way it should, is to immediately put it underneath hot water and scrub. Usually if I do that within 2 minutes, there is no damage. So I did that first, but this time, the primer still stuck.

 

Secondly, I tried using hand sanitzer (with about 30ish percent of alcohol in it), then isopropyl, submerged it for 20ish minutes and scrubbed. Got some paint off it, but, still no dice. The consistency of the primer at that point was sticky and gooey, but it still stuck.

 

At that point I cut my loses and removed the head of the miniature to use in the new one, and ironically having much more success in cleaning that. Unfortunately I ran out of the isopropyl, so I'm going to pick some up later today (3am when writing this). The miniature itself, on top of said tool missing on backpack, is already thrown out, as well as the arm. I ordered another one to compensate, however. Still interested in hearing how you would have fixed things, for future reference though :smile.:

 

I also tested the primer again on my BC and my Apothecary (pictures soon), and this time it worked as it should - better in fact. Having a quick look at yesterday's humidity (which was 91%) it explained a lot. *sigh* it was a beautiful mini while it lasted :sad.:

 

Sorry about the loss of your mini Brother:sad.: When removing water based paint from plastic you want to stay away from alcohol based and other harsh chemical solvents. Alcohol is not very effective on set paint, it and other solvents ( acetone, paint thinners/stripers) which may be more effective in removing paint, will compromise the plastic by making it brittle.

 

I use Simple Green, a multi-purpose, non-corrosive, biodegradable cleaner/degreaser. You'll want to use it in concentrated form. Works for me every time. The only drawback is you need to soak your problem mini for a week:eek: ...… at least:wacko.:  Depending on how many layers of muck need to be removed, a second soak may be needed after the first cleaning. It works well and is safe on the plastic...… and it's non-toxic:yes: ...... Probably not after the soak though:teehee: ...... and it tastes terrible:yucky:

 

Well, let's see.

 

At first, what I usually do if I see the primer isn't acting the way it should, is to immediately put it underneath hot water and scrub. Usually if I do that within 2 minutes, there is no damage. So I did that first, but this time, the primer still stuck.

 

Secondly, I tried using hand sanitzer (with about 30ish percent of alcohol in it), then isopropyl, submerged it for 20ish minutes and scrubbed. Got some paint off it, but, still no dice. The consistency of the primer at that point was sticky and gooey, but it still stuck.

 

At that point I cut my loses and removed the head of the miniature to use in the new one, and ironically having much more success in cleaning that. Unfortunately I ran out of the isopropyl, so I'm going to pick some up later today (3am when writing this). The miniature itself, on top of said tool missing on backpack, is already thrown out, as well as the arm. I ordered another one to compensate, however. Still interested in hearing how you would have fixed things, for future reference though :smile.:

 

I also tested the primer again on my BC and my Apothecary (pictures soon), and this time it worked as it should - better in fact. Having a quick look at yesterday's humidity (which was 91%) it explained a lot. *sigh* it was a beautiful mini while it lasted :sad.:

 

Sorry about the loss of your mini Brother:sad.: When removing water based paint from plastic you want to stay away from alcohol based and other harsh chemical solvents. Alcohol is not very effective on set paint, it and other solvents ( acetone, paint thinners/stripers) which may be more effective in removing paint, will compromise the plastic by making it brittle.

 

I use Simple Green, a multi-purpose, non-corrosive, biodegradable cleaner/degreaser. You'll want to use it in concentrated form. Works for me every time. The only drawback is you need to soak your problem mini for a week:eek: ...… at least:wacko.:  Depending on how many layers of muck need to be removed, a second soak may be needed after the first cleaning. It works well and is safe on the plastic...… and it's non-toxic:yes: ...... Probably not after the soak though:teehee: ...... and it tastes terrible:yucky:

 

 

Will take this into consideration! 

 

Here is my next project - a Grey Knight techmarine! Pictures in spoiler.

 

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The GK techmarine is complete! Probably my finest work, however my phone camera does have a way of exposing the worst instead of the best.. Still need practice doing eyes, but overall pretty happy with the miniature. Picture in spoiler.

 

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Brother Techmarine Talus Completed

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Completed Group Shot

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Current WIP Strike squad- Need to highlight, dry brush, paint eyes, weapon effects, and base and they will be done.

Edited by war009

GK Apothecary 2 done. What turned out to be a torment, ended up being my redemption. Definitely my finest work so far, I made him that he's my IRL counterpart. Sword wrist is magnetised, pictures in spoiler.

 

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So Forgeworld opened this morning and I bought a Mk IIb Land Raider and Black Templar Storm Shields.  This will be the 3rd Land Raider attached to the 7th Brotherhood but specifically belongs to the 10 man Purifier squad I'm planning on building with 4 incenerators....Fuego Fuego :devil:

Fixed my GK apothecary 2 with the areas I wasn't happy with, and added recess shading. Pictures in spoiler.

 

Question: Is building a second Brother-Captain worth it? As well as getting a Redeemer?

 

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Honestly, if you like brother captains and redeemers, then it's always worth it.

 

But if you're doing it for bettering your army, then you're better off waiting till 9th edition drops to see the new rules, tweaks and interactions.

Thanks for the advice! Hopefully 9th comes soon, because all this uncertainty is killing me.. what has everyone been up to though?

Also, how would you do a psycannon arm on a dreadnought, out of curiousity?

Edited by Skywrath

Or use the frag launcher from blood angels Dreadnought

 

Completely missed that bit - and I've been looking at that sprue for a while. Thanks for pointing that out - not sarcasm, genuinely. 

Edited by Skywrath

 

Or use the frag launcher from blood angels Dreadnought

Yes, to be fair I made my dread from the BA kit for the psychic hood. The frag cannon would make an excellent psycannon.

 

 

That's what the plan is. Just the sprue didn't show that the frag launcher option, I assumed they were extra parts for another dreadnought. Still toying with the idea of using one ven dread panel with lettering instead of the other one with the BA iconogrophy, but I guess I have to carve that off. Either way, looking forward to the challenge. Hopefully with 9th, hopefully these beautiful bad-boys (or good boys, because you know, for the Emperor and all that), will see some play. How did your Doomglaive Dreadnoughts look like?

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