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what kind of matte are you using?

the Vallejo Acrylic Matte. The weathering powder also greatly enhances matte varnishing look. I use Tamiya. I like the makeup case with 3 colors. Some people really like the AK interactive because its a loose powder.

They look awesome!

 

Which Tamiya color did you use?

 

And did you apply the matte varnish with an airbrush or standard brush?

rust and soot. You will need to spray varnish the powder from around 12" away. Edited by Debauchery101

Really nice work. I like the kill markings too. 

 

 

 

They look awesome!

Which Tamiya color did you use?

And did you apply the matte varnish with an airbrush or standard brush?

rust and soot. You will need to spray varnish the powder from around 12" away.

 

 

- So is the rust and soot a powder or spray? Whenever I use weathering stuff it's usually powders that I can kind of drybrush on. These look great though.

As others have said, the different tones/finish on the armour vs the bikes is very nicely done and gives the models an amazing flair, well done! Despite my dislike for black marine armies, I’ve been contemplating the DW for ages and your models here have really made that idea all the more palatable...

As others have said, the different tones/finish on the armour vs the bikes is very nicely done and gives the models an amazing flair, well done! Despite my dislike for black marine armies, I’ve been contemplating the DW for ages and your models here have really made that idea all the more palatable...

I'll let you in on a huge secret. My DW have always been in a semi finished state because I tried to do all that meticulous lining and multi layer of the red on weapons. This weathered and rugged scheme was super easy, relaxing and forgiving.

 

There is some monetary investment in getting the weathering powders, oil paints and/or washes plus the mineral spirits. But honestly you don't

need the expensive AK interactive stuff thats 15 bucks.

 

I bought a small kit and make many of my own. Here's a link at hobby lobby

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Art-Sets/Oil-Color-Paint-Set---20-Pieces/p/20198

 

3 great guys to learn weathering and oil washing from are

Marco Frisoni-this is a Blanchitsu style tutorial

 

NightShift-

 

Jack of clubs Ravenwing outrider tutorial

Edited by Debauchery101
  • 2 weeks later...

Chaplains! Bringing the Emperors hatred at break neck speed.

Theyre about 95% done. I need to do some edging but my frickin desk lamp died and the other lights suck for painting

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Great work.

 

Wonderful inspiration as Ive just began work on my own Indomitus Box set. All of which shall be reinforcing my Primaris Deathwatch force.

Awesome man. Deathwatch are my favorite faction so far in 9th.
  • 2 weeks later...

I was on call this last week and put in nearly 80 hrs $$$$ but got hardly any painting done. By rules these aren't Indomitus units but I used the models for them. I think they are turning out great for AutoBolter marines. I pretty much finished the Sgt and the Fleshtearer. Once I get the rest to their level I'll do the Martian weathering with the oil wash and powders to tie into the rest of my army.

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Edited by Debauchery101

by the way...anyone got tips on making the metallics look better? They look so much smoother and toned down in person..even in the light box. Im sure it has to be some settings for the camera but I haven't figured it out

 

Not totally sure on the camera side of things. On the painting side, I know that you can use Runefang Steel and some other metal-ish layered paints to distinguish between metals, DW pauldrons and weapons that you want to stand out.

I think it's just the nature of using a lot of dark colors tbh. And the brighter you can make a color, the better (more distinct) it will look in the camera.

 

Assuming the citadel paints... you could:

-Base with lead belcher

-Nuln oil the indents and crevices

-Brighten with runefang steel in a dry brush fashion

-Weather/battle-damage it to your liking

 

I havent tried applying runefang before the nuln oil but you could try that and see if that works. You may have to re-apply runefang after on the embossed pieces depending on what the oil does to it.

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