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Listened to Erik Swinsons video about them yesterday when I was in the gym, I dunno that my opinion changed all that much

 

I will try a few, mainly if there are colors that match with some of the base coat colors that I use. 

 

With that though, one thing that Albert mentioned a few times in that video is that glazing/mixing is kind of a pain with them due to how pigmented they are. I mainly use glazes as my blending method over something like wet blending and I am mixing colors more and more lately so I dunno that I would ever fully convert to the new paints

 

Think they'll be great for folks doing big armies though as their main focus though

Being pigmented does not impede with glazing, most painters who talk about how 'pigmented' a paint is does not know what they are talking about.  Most of our hobby paints are note ven a fraction of how pigmented artists acrylics are yet they glaze perfectly.  The issue is the binder and more importantly fillers that hobby paints use to achieve opacity.  :cuss: opacity, by the way.  The weird armamanent race towards trying to get the MOST OPAQUE PAINT EVER is actually ruining vibrancy.  The Army Painter fanatic line is a huge culprit in this trend, for example.

 

The entire 'I want a yellow that covers in one coat' crowd simply drives me crazy.  You don't want that, because that will only give you a desaturated bismuth yellow with a lot of titanium white mixed into it.  Just learn to paint a vibrant yellow over ochre.  Stop ruining paints for the rest of us..

8 hours ago, Tastyfish said:

10:40 in the video that Kurgan posted above, the Erik Swinson & Albert Moreto Font one. Painting yellow directly to a black primed marine.

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 

Thanks for that. I admit that it does look impressive.

2 hours ago, appiah4 said:

Being pigmented does not impede with glazing, most painters who talk about how 'pigmented' a paint is does not know what they are talking about.  Most of our hobby paints are note ven a fraction of how pigmented artists acrylics are yet they glaze perfectly.  The issue is the binder and more importantly fillers that hobby paints use to achieve opacity.  :cuss: opacity, by the way.  The weird armamanent race towards trying to get the MOST OPAQUE PAINT EVER is actually ruining vibrancy.  The Army Painter fanatic line is a huge culprit in this trend, for example.

 

The entire 'I want a yellow that covers in one coat' crowd simply drives me crazy.  You don't want that, because that will only give you a desaturated bismuth yellow with a lot of titanium white mixed into it.  Just learn to paint a vibrant yellow over ochre.  Stop ruining paints for the rest of us..

 

Because miniature paints are primarily aimed at army painters who mainly want opacity so they can throw their armies down on the table in a reasonable timeframe, rather than spending ages getting the perfect glazed blend or a super vibrant finish. Most people aren't going for display quality or anything.

 

No matter how good these are and I will be testing one set of 5. The fact they might be over £4 and still in them horrible 12ml pots.

 

Is anyone gonna give up their AK 3rd Gen? Pro-Acryl? AP Fanatics? 2TC? 

 

 

Edited by Arkley
4 hours ago, appiah4 said:

Being pigmented does not impede with glazing, most painters who talk about how 'pigmented' a paint is does not know what they are talking about.  Most of our hobby paints are note ven a fraction of how pigmented artists acrylics are yet they glaze perfectly.  The issue is the binder and more importantly fillers that hobby paints use to achieve opacity.  :cuss: opacity, by the way.  The weird armamanent race towards trying to get the MOST OPAQUE PAINT EVER is actually ruining vibrancy.  The Army Painter fanatic line is a huge culprit in this trend, for example.

 

The entire 'I want a yellow that covers in one coat' crowd simply drives me crazy.  You don't want that, because that will only give you a desaturated bismuth yellow with a lot of titanium white mixed into it.  Just learn to paint a vibrant yellow over ochre.  Stop ruining paints for the rest of us..

I do feel like I have two breeds of paint right now. My Scale 75 paints are generally quite vibrant but the coverage isn't great. I'm wondering if glazing that type of paint over the less saturated Army Painter style paint may give me the intensity I want over basecoats that are more agreeable to work with? I'll have to experiment in that regard. Sometimes a washed-out colour works for a project but sometimes you just need to make someone's eyes bleed. :laugh:

8 hours ago, appiah4 said:

Being pigmented does not impede with glazing, most painters who talk about how 'pigmented' a paint is does not know what they are talking about.  

 

My goodness. Let me rephrase for the apparent paint scientists in the room

 

Albert Moreto Font, who has won the Slayer Sword three times along with numerous other awards, said that unless you thin the paints to an absurd degree with water, or use the medium GW will sell separately, he did not like them for glazing, either due to them changing the tone of the paint scheme more than you would expect with the amount of dilution or some other issue. He also made note that due to the strong nature of the color (NOT PIGMENT WE AREN'T ALLOWED TO SAY THAT) it changes the tone more with less paint than we are probably used to. While he did not test them much with the airbrush, he stated that others had and they ran into similar issues which makes sense

 

I'm sure the peer-reviewed research paper into miniature paint range pigmentation will be forthcoming

 

8 hours ago, appiah4 said:

 Stop ruining paints for the rest of us..

 

They aren't. It's silly to suggest that they are. The other paints aren't going away. Contrast is a good example, there are people that love it and the other speed paints that have come out since. I have yet to use one. Nothing's changed. No one from GW marketing is putting a paintbrush to my head telling me to use contrast, and no one is doing the same with these, Pro Acryl, Kimera, AK's Intense range or anything else. 

Edited by darkhorse0607
14 hours ago, Arkley said:

Is anyone gonna give up their AK 3rd Gen? Pro-Acryl? AP Fanatics? 2TC? 

 

If I can make them behave as stated, some of them will work their way back onto my desk. Probably not a wholesale switch like when I went to Two Thin Coats though.

17 hours ago, Arkley said:

Is anyone gonna give up their AK 3rd Gen? Pro-Acryl? AP Fanatics? 2TC? 

I already have a ridiculous amount of paint, but I might pick up one or two of these, if specific colours are good and I need them for something. But then, I've been very "mix and match" with paints for the last couple of decades, so I don't really have full ranges of anything or any brand loyalty. I think a lot of people who are more deeply into the hobby than game part of things are at least a little bit like that. If one brand has a nice yellow and another brand has a good white, why not pick up both? So for a lot of people, I don't think it's necessarily a question of giving up your existing paint.

Another aspect is that these are probably mostly intended for people who don't venture much, or at all, out of the GW ecosystem, not for those of us who already have a well established, tried-and-true paint system. Whether they'll actually make anyone buy them all and/or replace their current GW paints is anyone's guess, though. 

On 9/18/2026 at 8:13 PM, Valkyrion said:

Am I understanding this correctly - I could buy Bloodtoof Red in any one of those 5 shades, from light to dark? 1-5?

 

If this is saying I can use Bloodtoof Red 1, 3 and 5 to paint red then I'm keen on that? I think? 

I know it's not ground breaking, but when the names change I do struggle to remember my extra paints - macragge blue then is it calgar? alaitoc? is the highlight blue horror? fenrisian grey?

 

If this is 'you just need Ultramar blue - choose your shade!' then I'm kinda on board with it. 

This is why I like the Wargames Foundry range of paints. 

Each colour is a set of three but they're also available individually, you inevitably run out of the shade colour first so it's good to get just the one paint you need.

I have been using them for years, I think it was about 20 years ago when I first discovered them.

 

Cheers 

Vogon 

6 hours ago, Grotsmasha said:

 

If I can make them behave as stated, some of them will work their way back onto my desk. Probably not a wholesale switch like when I went to Two Thin Coats though.

 

Its like contrast its another tool in the belt. I will be trying the Ultramar Blue set - If the rumours of price (£4.10 per) I think GW aren't going to win friends, GW paints are already overpriced for their paints and tools. I won't be replacing my 2TC anytime soon. 

 

3 hours ago, Antarius said:

I already have a ridiculous amount of paint, but I might pick up one or two of these, if specific colours are good and I need them for something. But then, I've been very "mix and match" with paints for the last couple of decades, so I don't really have full ranges of anything or any brand loyalty. I think a lot of people who are more deeply into the hobby than game part of things are at least a little bit like that. If one brand has a nice yellow and another brand has a good white, why not pick up both? So for a lot of people, I don't think it's necessarily a question of giving up your existing paint.

Another aspect is that these are probably mostly intended for people who don't venture much, or at all, out of the GW ecosystem, not for those of us who already have a well established, tried-and-true paint system. Whether they'll actually make anyone buy them all and/or replace their current GW paints is anyone's guess, though. 

 

I think one of the good things about this range is the name reduction, Instead of needing Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue and Fenrisian Grey I would simply need Ultramar Blue.

I am not going to defend the prices as we all know GW paints are not the cheapest. These prices have put them on the high end of price/volume.

 

 

I was in GW yesterday, bought 2 small pots of paint and 2 brushes - it was £17 lol. I forget how pricey they can be sometimes.

I was told they would be hosting a paint day to sample the Warhammer tone paints. I'm an old fart and don't like trying new things, but will give this a go because my painting techniques have been stagnant for about 10 years lol

I think the Lil'Lengend studio* was about right. Most people are probably going to test a few, but they'll have to be awesome paints to push out your current favourites. 

 

The Pro tag doesn't make sense to me. Painters will have devised their preferred thinning ratios and such, so the chances of using straight from the pots are slim. Especially from those ghastly pots.

 

*was that Myles?

I have to admit, Warhipster's videos on his channel have sold these to me. The self levelling properties are incredible, they go on smooth straight from the pot and the fact that the glazing medium can slow drying time from 5 mins to 50 mins is amazing. But the Imperial Fists Land Raider, dry brushed up from a black undercoat is really what sold them for army painting.

 

Over £20 for each set of 5 is a little eye watering but I really think these will be game changing in the same way Contrast paints were and currently there doesn't seem to be an equivalent paint with these properties on the market. No doubt, like Contrast Paints, that will change though and other brands will copy these. 

Edited by StraightSilver
typos

I'm not interested in switching over to a new line of paint. I just moved to AK 3rd Gen from Vallejo a couple of years ago and am happy with it for the most part (though I do like what I've used from the Pro Acryl line). I might find the midtones useful for basecoating though... not having to do 3+ coats of the more challenging colors would be welcome.

On 9/22/2026 at 7:38 AM, appiah4 said:

The entire 'I want a yellow that covers in one coat' crowd simply drives me crazy.  You don't want that, because that will only give you a desaturated bismuth yellow with a lot of titanium white mixed into it.  Just learn to paint a vibrant yellow over ochre.  Stop ruining paints for the rest of us..

 

No thank you. I know what I want. I have been painting for over 30 years and I have mastered everything from drybrushing to wet blending. Every yellow I have tried has been so translucent as to be a pain to use. There are plenty of yellows that work as you describe. I don't want to take them away from anyone, I just want one or two strong yellows that you can paint straight over and not have to mess around with ochre bases. It will not ruin anything for anyone.

 

Fortunately, the painting videos for Hawkshroud yellow suggest that this range will actually do what I want. I plan to try some out over the weekend and see if it fits the bill.

Happy to have a new yellow to try BA Assault troops with.  I don't love the current system of "Leave Assault heads separate cuz they have to be done in white/off white first, and then have a yellow applied to them" since I mostly prime in blacks.

If they can give me a vibrant yellow over black, idc what kind of black magic it uses.  Sign my soul away.

2 minutes ago, Sete said:

So explain how this works? I just prime, slap one thick coat and it just dries Miraculously well?

 

Looks like it. From Louise of Rogue Hobbies:

 

share_9201033308161454879.png?ex=6ab56ed

 

 

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