Knight_of_Old Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Wow I cant wait to try this tutorial out. Ill post some pics when Im done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_jagr Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Thanks for tutorial, I actively used your advice at painting this model. Thanks once again :sweat: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 Was sniffing around for a good NMM tutorial to paint a Khorne dreadnought after flipping through the bitz catalogue and seeing that Khorne dreadnought. I mean, I love metallic paints, don't get me wrong... but I just can't seem to get that look I want on larger flat surfaces. I'll give this a try when I get a little more courage... hehe. If I NMM my dreadnought, should I also therefore NMM all the 8 berzerkers I have already painted with metallics? Or ar ethe so small it's ok to leave them that way? I wanted a more vibrant gold that "pops" for my berzerkers and I've tried a myriad of techniques. The best thing I can think of is Shining gold, brown ink, burnished gold, then stark Burnished/Mythril mixes for that. The hardest part about NMMs is finding a proper light source, becuase I fear it could conflict with the viewing angle of the model. That's why I'm so hesitant to use this technique on my field minis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyron Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 ?Would it be possible to makea vidoe of you doing this Boltman? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Also Boltman, forget my last post. I've since entered the dangerous world of NMM and use layering instead of wet blending, but I can still get a nice, smooth look. I'm very well accustomed to acrylics. I use a few different color recipes for different gold or brass effects, but yours is probably the best I've found for SENMM. I am going to try it out on a very large scale model... a bust from Forge World! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Devil- Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 ok i have a question on the 'perception' of the NMM ... when you are dealing with a whole figure ... i know you pick a point for the light and go from there, but what about the peices that are on the other side of the figure? ... do you do the same thing there as well? ... or have them without as much shading? ... most figures i have seen with NMM ... only show one shot .. never get to see the other side as well ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 ok i have a question on the 'perception' of the NMM ... when you are dealing with a whole figure ... i know you pick a point for the light and go from there, but what about the peices that are on the other side of the figure? ... do you do the same thing there as well? ... or have them without as much shading? ... most figures i have seen with NMM ... only show one shot .. never get to see the other side as well ...This will be a bit theoretical so who knows if it helps: This problem of perception exists for every part of the miniature. NMM is just the application of basic light reflection methods for highly reflective surfaces. In the real world metal is nothing special. It reflects light like anything else, it's just highly reflective (when polished and smooth,...). It´s just in miniature painting we have paints with metallic pigments that we can rely on for the simulation of metallic reflection (if we want) but in real (1:1 scale) life we do just 'use' the normal reflection properties of everything around us. There is no reduced scale that needs all the fancy painting stuff (highlighting and shading) to imitate life. Placing the imaginary light source right above the top of the miniature (it´s called 'zenithal lighting') tends to give the best trade off between realism and paintable miniature. This imaginary light source (that you think of and work with in this situation) is not a small spotlight but a 'sun light' with a atmosphere that scatters light so you should get a nice diffuse lighting situation. So this means that the lighting situation on the back of the miniature is more or less the same as on the front. It would only change if you would move the primary light source to some other place (like a focused front light, with little secondary light sources at the back) In real life the reflection of anything that moves changes. This change of reflection is what our brain processes as movement. If a person turns around and you suddenly see the face then you do that because this part reflects light different than the back of the head that you saw a moment ago. But it doesn't work that good on miniatures as they have a smaller surface for reflecting light. But if you use metallic paints you get a focused reflection on these parts, that´s why these parts look 'more real'. And that's why NMM can look 'funny' when not viewed from the right angle. But this is a problem for all parts of the miniature, it´s just that it´s easier to see on NMM as it represents a very reflective surface where the change of the reflection more prominent. Does this make any sense at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I often have trouble with SENMM or shiny metallic effects. Especially true on my flatwork. I need a lot of work on my gold... I'm good at doing a nice, matte gold but not a polished or buffed shiny/SENMM gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Devil- Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 ok, yes that makes sense ... so just do it all the same .. just kinda mirror the left and right ... and same on the back ... hmm will have to give it a try on some test peices and see ... i think i need to pick up some of that chem that slows down drying time tho ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanji Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Hi Boltman, first of all i think you have done an outstanding work with your world eaters marine! I wanted to ask you if i could translate your amazing tutorial and bring it to the Italian GW community forum. It would be wonderful, i think your tutorial is very "complete". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boltman Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 Fancy that I find a minute to check out B&C! I see a lot have progressed and used this little tutorial to good effects! Keep up teh great job guys, soon you'll teach me a thing or two! I haven't pursued NMM techniques since Hellblade the Dreadnought, learning about real metallics for a while (along with a slightly mor realistic paint style), but I intend to come back again and try to push it a bit more on the NMM side. I want to incorporate more secondary lighting in NMM, for instance reflections caused by nearby surfaces unto the NMM parts. Tzeench sounds like a good subject... I don't have the equipment to make a video of this, besides it takes hours to get a great finished result. You'll have to read, ask questions, or invite me over and I'll teach you in person. When I paint NMM, I pick a light source generally a bit off the side, from the top. I then cheat and consider another light source, 180 degrees on teh other side of teh model, to make reflections for the backside of a model. NMM in my case is not an exact science, it's simply a nifty little technique I enjoy, I place light and shade accordign to basic principles and try to avoid major errors. @Sanji, you're more than welcome to translate and share this information with the italian community, it would be great that more people get to learn from this, it's the whole point of my tutorials :P I simply ask that you credit me for the tutorial and send me a private message with a link to it, so if italian people contact me about it, I can direct them to your translation :) @_jagr : Really nice effect on your gold! a more burnished bright gold and an overall nice fantasy style which I particularily enjoy! Glad I could be of some help in your work! I've made another tutorial regarding the red armor of Graviax (Terminator), I should see about posting it here when I get a chance. It's very Picture heavy though... Boltman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f13/disturbedbeaver/100_1552.jpg This is my attempt at NMM gold... I used snakebite leather and golden yellow since all I have are GW paints and do not know the "translation" of Leprous Brown in new GW paint. I've never seen it, so I had to guess lol. I want to try also using some Vermin Brown with my horizon lines too. I was having trouble with the placement of the horizon line on the 'bars' on the top and bottom part of the crux. Let me know what you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boltman Posted July 6, 2007 Author Share Posted July 6, 2007 If you seek a very shiny SE-NMM effect, I suggest you stretch teh darker tones lower down below the horizon lines. Similarly, just above the dark horizon line, Brightened your gold to a very bright beige, and move back towards darker shades as you move up on the gold surface. The horizon "bars" on the upper part of skull should practically show no horizon line, as they are reflecting light coming from the sky only. THe picture is a bit dark but from what I see the lower part is pretty good, horizon lines about in the middle as the bars are pretty much straight vertical (reflecting as much ground as sky). You could use some brightening just above the horizon lines, and stretch that brighter hilight higher on each bar as you eventually darken it up a bit towards the very top of each bar. More contrast between brightest and darkest colors would help. The horizon lines on the side thingies is curved downward, but it should be curved upward. Lit hits it rom the top and to convey the curve in teh gold surface, starting your horizon line about midway on the far sides and going down towards the skull, in a curve, will convey the volume better. The horizon line should probably reach the skull at the very lowest part where gold is connected to the skull. This is becausethe side gold panels are really pointing towards the sky more than the ground. Try it out :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Haha yeah. It's awesome what a fresh pair of eyes will do. I went back and looked at it and was like "That surface is convex, the horizon line is wrong :(" and then you posted it like 8 minutes later. I thought of a chrome sphere's reflection I had to draw in a few classes and I said "waaait.." :D It def could use more brightening right above the horizon line, but I thought that the beveled edge of the "bars" would reflect light from the gold above it so I made them brighter as well. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not so good with the principles of luminosity and crap but I'm trying to apply them, hehe. I get so stuck between 2-D and 3-D work that sometimes I don't know when a 2-D effect will look tacky on a model... anyway, I left my digi cam at work so you get an updated pic in a day or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoolstah! Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Hi all! Well, I've been thinking of doing some NMM steel on my current project, but don't know which colors to use. I only have access to GW paints at the moment and am too cheap to order Vallejo paints. I've got Codex Grey, Space Wolves Grey and Shadow Grey. Does anyone have any tips on how I should start and mix colors etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggles 2.0 Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 this an awesome tuttorial that i have to try. i kinda wish i knew about this 2-3 weeks ago so i could use it on my youngblood entry at gamesday :rolleyes: . also, how do you guys manage to take those awesome pictures, mine turn out like butt. :ermm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LunchBox Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Glad to see this post resurface. Now, when people ask me how I do NMM...I can point them here, as this tutorial is what taught me. Also, GW's Leprous Brown is now OOP, and Vallejo "Scrofulous Brown" is it's equivalent...FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Glad to see this post resurface. Now, when people ask me how I do NMM...I can point them here, as this tutorial is what taught me. Also, GW's Leprous Brown is now OOP, and Vallejo "Scrofulous Brown" is it's equivalent...FYI. Is there a GW or craft paint equivalent to Leprous Brown? Most of the paints I use on my minis now are those cheap FolkArt paints, but they work wonders :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LunchBox Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Glad to see this post resurface. Now, when people ask me how I do NMM...I can point them here, as this tutorial is what taught me. Also, GW's Leprous Brown is now OOP, and Vallejo "Scrofulous Brown" is it's equivalent...FYI. Is there a GW or craft paint equivalent to Leprous Brown? Most of the paints I use on my minis now are those cheap FolkArt paints, but they work wonders :pinch: there's no GW eqivalent anymore...Bronzed Flesh is as close as anything they have, and even that's WAY off (too light, and a little pinkish). As for craft paints, I have no idea...I only use them on terrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggles 2.0 Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 i guess u people don't feel like explaining :devil: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 i guess u people don't feel like explaining :) Here is a link (try the articles in the photography section). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfsbane Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Boltman I was wondering if you could do a tutorial on your metallic colors? For instance your dread and champion have a nice metallic look to the reds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Seriously, for metallic colors treat them the same way as you would any other NMM. Build up a nice stark gradient from dark to light, but not too desaturated or toned up or you'll have a more cloth-like pastel than a brilliant metallic. If boltman wants to make a tutorial, I welcome it :whistling: Best advice: Look at a coke can and try to decipher what colors it's throwing at your eyes, and copy that on to your model with whatever color you desire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_jagr Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 @_jagr : Really nice effect on your gold! a more burnished bright gold and an overall nice fantasy style which I particularily enjoy! Glad I could be of some help in your work! Thanks you! Your works inspire me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekkanus Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Anyone know what colours you would use for either Red or Blue armour if you only have GW paints? Really great tutorial - can't wait to try it out!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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