Zeuspro Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 This is my first conversion/repair job and also the first time i ever used green stuff or plasti-card, i think its worked out quite well. When i first staqrted 40k i was given the old style rhino by a friend of mine to help me get started. It had been very badly painted several times on top of each other, (to witch i iadded my own 2 layers of paint) and was mis-shapen and warped, generally in very bad condition. Reciently i decided that my army would actually need to use this transport and so i decided it was time to do something about the shocking state of the vehicle, starting with the paint work. After sitting in white spirit for six days not one single drop of paint had moved from the tank, although what ever type of glue its origional owner had used had long since disolved. Eventually i got a large bottle of acitone from the local hobby shop and set about scrubbing the paint off. After using half a bottle of acitone i had got through 9 layers of thick paint, down to a thick layer of white spray paint witch even the acitone would not clear. I ended up scraping it off with a knife. I then through alay all the warped bits of the tank witch left be with the outside bits of the tank sides and half the top and bottom of the tank. i then set about replacing those bits with plasi-card. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0774.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0776.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0777.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0778.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0779.jpg As i had to throw away the two front hatch's i replaced them with dreadnought front panels and then i used green stuff to fill in all the gaps on the model to make it look better. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0780.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0781.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0782.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0783.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0784.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0785.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0786.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0790.jpg The bolters that go on top of the tank where completly ruined and so i removed them from the top hatches and attached two of the old style bolter, which look very similar, then i sprayed it all black. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0799.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0800.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0801.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0802.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0803.jpg http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/zeuspro/DSCF0804.jpg now its ready for painting and ive got to decide how to paint the dreadnought plates, my army is the ultramarines 4th company, so any ideas would be great. Whilst doing this product i realised that the plasti-card i usxed was a little too thick to cut easily so next time i use the stuff ill get a thinner type Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hash Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Wow even after cleaning it's still a mess.. Wouldn't it be cheaper just to get a new Rhino? Also for plastic models don't use acetone , but brake fluid ^_^ It's way better. Don't scrub the minis , especially with a knife ;) just put them into the fluid. If the paint is really nasty you may use NITRO , but ONLY FOR METAL MODELS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeuspro Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 It worked out quite cheap actually, the rhino = free Huge sheet of plati-card = Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyJ Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 not a shabby job for a massive strip and rebuild. The look is still pretty rough but if you don't care and just want the model for play then good job. To make it look a little better I would have covered the entire front with plasticard instead of filling with greenstuff and armored the fenders like the newer rhino. It would have given it a cleaner, straighter look instead of the rough green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Angelus Sanctus Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Not too bad on the reconstruction effort. It wont ever be factory new looking, but you can truly say your Rhino has alot of character to it with all the bumps and bruises (a survivor of THOUSANDS on campaigns thats to be sure). Hopefully with a new slap of paint and a few extra items for decoration here and there, should look pretty good. Let this be a lesson to all... Extra armor is truly worth its points :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ober1069 Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Wow you restored it quite a bit! It looks alot better than it started. I would have used it as terrain and not even attmepted to fix it up. A few thoughts: White modeling putty is cheaper than greenstuff and sandable after it dries to make for smoother repairs. You would use it to connect the card and fill gaps then sand it down for smoother edges. Green stuff is still going to be good in places. I would use both. You may be able to sand the greenstuff down some to smooth it out some. Round pieces of sprue glued to the top of the mufflers and then drilled out make for decent exhaust pipes. You could also attach some stowage (nets, boxes, etc) to cover the rougher parts. or model them as damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeuspro Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 At the moment the chips and dips in the tank look like battle damage, im worried however that once i paint it blure there just going to look like dents in a toy. ill have to look around for tips on painting them up as dents. i seem to remember that theres an articall in one of the UK white dwarf about it. I thought that the green stuff would file down alittle smoother then it did. (i know better now) but the main reason i used green stuff on the front is because i was having a hard time cutting the plasti-card straight enough with my hobby knife (i even used a new blade) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbrad Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Quite like the battle damaged look with a good paint job this could be an advantage. Personally I'd have stripped it in brake fluid rather than acitone - for a start you wont be (too) overcome with fumes. I wouldn't attempt filling the ruts with GS TBH. If you can get a good plastic plastic filler like this Humbrol Model Filler Putty ( http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/acatalog/...Putty_Clay.html ) its much more plaible and easy to 'skim' over ruts with than GS :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeuspro Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 How do you guys dispose of brake fluid after you use it? I didnt use it as i wasnt sure of the best way to dispose of the stuff. (also the model was in such bad shape i dont think it would have lasted long in brake fluid) Any idea's on painting the plates at the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ober1069 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 I think I would go with gold metalic, and tool it up with lots of battle honors, purity seals and such make it look like a real honored vet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeuspro Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 If got the imperial eagle and the name scroll of a predator, one of witch will go on the front under the plates. (probably be the eagle) unfortunatly as the new style pred is bigger then the old rhino all the rest of the accesories that you get with it look over sized on the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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