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Best glue and where to purchase online?


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I had an epic battle with a bottle of thin glue last night... almost had a finished putting together a really sweet Tzneetch Lord in TDA then it happened... one bit does not fit just right... glue all over the place and my fingers are welded together. :( I managed to salvage the mini but I have swore off that particular glue forever more!!! :) :P :)

 

I am looking for suggestions... bonding plastic and/or metal... and links where to buy online!

 

Thx!!!

 

- BO

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Unfortunatly I've had the best luck with GW's glue, and the high cost really makes me use it sparingly. I've also tried Zap-a-Gap (PT-02 gap filling) , but that stuff is waaaayyyyy to runny. What type are you currently using? Also, when your not using it, keep the glue in the fridge. It will stay a little thicker that way.
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For glueing plastic to plastic, I swear by UHU. Look for the section Adhesives for modelling and plastics under Our adhesives. I use the one at the bottom, with the needle applier. Runny as hell, but you can put it exactly where you want it, and once two pieces of plastic are glued, they stay glued.

For metal components I have recently started using Loctite superglue gel. It doesn't run where you don't want it, and up to now, everything I have glued stays put...

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I just use GW's stuff, however, I'm contemplating writing to them and demanding they drop the word 'Super' from their super glue, or at least re-christen it "Not so super glue" - I just use blobs of Green Stuff to help hold the pieces when I'm super gluing metal together, helps prevent me uttering every single swear word i know in the space of 10 seconds... :rolleyes:
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I've also tried Zap-a-Gap (PT-02 gap filling) , but that stuff is waaaayyyyy to runny.

Hah, amateur. :lol:

 

Zap-a-Gap PT-02 is the best superglue, period. Pacer has been doing superglues for modellers probably the longest. There's three different thicknesses, so you will get the kind you want.

 

For plastic, nothing, I say again, nothing, can beat Revell contacta professional.

 

Those are my opinions, I've been modelling with plastics for close to 20 years now(tank models before GW), so I got some experience, however much that is worth is another matter. :D

 

So.

 

Pacer Zap-a-Gap for superglue

 

and

 

Revell contacta professional for plastic glue

 

 

 

 

Cheers

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If you want a nigh-indestructable bond on metal to metal pieces, and have the capability of clamping them and waiting a while, I suggest the two-part epoxy marketed under the name "JB Weld."

 

This stuff is designed to "glue" automotive parts together. In fact, my cousin used it to repair a cracked manifold on one of his cars. Been holding up to the stress and pressure of internal combustion for about five years now.

 

As for hobbies, I've used it to bond my GK Terminator arms to their bodies and I can't for the life of me make them shake loose. I've tried.

 

The downside is that it takes quite a while for this stuff to set, so you need to tape and/or clamp the pieces together.

 

Give it a shot. You'll be amazed.

 

Oh, and you can find it in nearly any hardware store (I live all the way out in Saipan in the middle of the Pacific and I can find it here).

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I WANT UHU!!! But wait... I live in USA. :o

 

Pretty much I hate glue. It was really hard prying the terminator off my finger last night... the good news is I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express (j/k). I had to make a cape for the Tzneetch Lord to hide where all the runny glue collected. When I hit it with accelerator smoke poured off the model! Very much a Chaos thing.

 

I used a two part epoxy one time when I put my Bloodthirster together... it had an injector with two barrels! :P

 

I did order some of the Zap a Gap and also these little tubes from dickblick.com. I will have to try to convince a local merchant to stock some UHU. :devil:

 

- BO

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The Zap-a-Gap worked great when we first got it, but after a while it got runny. That's when I learned to keep it in the fridge.
That's odd, mine tend to get thicker with time, since they inevitably dry out slowly, since there's some air change in the bottles when you use em. I got my current Zap-a-Gap at half full at the moment. 2 bottles of accelerator.

 

When I hit it with accelerator smoke poured off the model! Very much a Chaos thing.

The glue gets hot when it hardens by the accelerator, if there's llots of glue, it will get even hotter. I don't know if superglue + accelerator can explode, but there're lotsa industrial grade glues/bonding agents that require careful mixing of hardener and glue, or it might explode because of the heat generated.

 

Cheers

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I bought some glue from a guy on the market once.... telling me it was MEGA strong... it was... 2 weeks ago i tried ripping the 2 metal components from eachother and buggered the model... need to mail order me the components now.

 

Dont buy it from gw either. I get my glue nowadays from the local supermarket or pound store.

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I think the best glue with metal models-- hands down-- is pinning!

 

But what I use for adhesive is a drop of pva glue on one side of the join and a drop of superglue on the other. Then hold them together for a few minutes. It only takes a few minutes to stick, but I let it cure for several hours (usually overnight).

 

I have yet to find better results with cheaper materials. I've actually dropped non-pinned models on the pavement and had the join hold when the paint did not. :P

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I've tried 20 different brands here in Europe and the one I like the most for plastic and metal, is Loctite's superattak.

 

Like most other glues it can be quite nasty if you get it on your skin. :P

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Im going to have to say Zap-a-Gap. Ive tried at least five different brands of glue, and so far that one has worked best for me :) It gets a bit runny sometime, but if you squeeze a dot onto a piece of spare plasticard, dip a toothpick in it, and then place the glue where you need it with the toothpick, it works quite well :)
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If you happen to be using an accelerator, make certain your hands are glue free BEFORE you spray. :) :) Even if you are relativly certain there is no glue on your hand.... triple check them didgets. I have a nice shiny scar on my middle finger from my early days of modeling. -_- When Chrono says it heats up, he means it.
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I agree with many of the others here - I use loctite gel - it is precise and good bonding. It also "frosts" less than other glues when repairing already painted models or assembling paintied components. used it on all my GD stuff the past 2 years
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For glueing plastic to plastic, I swear by UHU. Look for the section Adhesives for modelling and plastics under Our adhesives. I use the one at the bottom, with the needle applier. Runny as hell, but you can put it exactly where you want it, and once two pieces of plastic are glued, they stay glued.

For metal components I have recently started using Loctite superglue gel. It doesn't run where you don't want it, and up to now, everything I have glued stays put...

 

That needle applicator is just what the doctor ordered. I must have it!

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I personally prefer Gel Superglue for plastic models. I pin nearly everything anyway so the fine tip applicator the Loctite Superglue Gel has never failed me yet. Our entire group has converted to it. I never get to much because I can finally control it.
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