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FAQ: Painting White


tahrikmili

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WAIT NO!

 

when ever painting a light color ontop of a dark color, it is almost always a nono to go dark all the way to light without a transition color inbetween. except for metalics. they work diff.

 

if you are applying white onto a dark color, you may want to work the color up with something like a grey as the middle layer. otherwise, your white might come out with some really undesired results.

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best way ive found is this...

 

straight codex grey, 50/50 dex grey and skull white, then 1 or 2 thin layers of skull white..

 

ive tried astronomicon grey in the past and never really liked the end result so its always worth seeing if you prefer another method..

 

also working through from deneb stone works a bit better than astro imho.

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http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f185/dadickerson/whpics009.jpg

 

The white on his shoulders was codex, white, white again, and another white. last was a 1:4 white:water mix... Sux rump.

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  • 3 months later...
personally when painting white (for my apoths) I paint the whole model white, then carefully put a black ink in the joins and recesses and use a blue ink and highlight white again.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/lonewolf_dcc/010-2.jpg

the white was...

undercoated black

basecoat dheneb stone

badab black wash (undiluted)

dheneb stone highlight

50:50 dheneb stone + white highlight

white highlight

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  • 1 month later...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/lonewolf_dcc/010-2.jpg

the white was...

undercoated black

basecoat dheneb stone

badab black wash (undiluted)

dheneb stone highlight

50:50 dheneb stone + white highlight

white highlight

 

Thats a fantastic dirty white, essp painted from black, hmm im really starting to hate you ;) i may just have to steal the idea :)

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I go with a really bright white rather than a dirty one.

 

I prime the model with a couple of coats of astronomican grey and then I give them a wash in watered down blue/grey (adeptus battlegrey/mordian blue) and then keep on building up lots of layers of thinned down skull white. I leave the soft armour parts grey.

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  • 3 months later...
If it's gonna be white.. why dontcha just spray it white and wash it and then layer with white again, instead of sparying it black and layer it like the way yo describe? Sounds like extra work for a worse result o.O
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Guest Azeikel

I agree with Lando. If you are going to paint light colours (White, yellow etc) onto a miniature use white spray as a basecoat.

If painting darker colours use black spray.

Also since you main colour is white your job is half done. All you have to do is touch up the spray with a wash and afew dabs of paint in the recesses you missed.

 

Azeikel

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I use a different technique to paint my white. First , I prime the model with chaos black spray , then basecoat it with Shadow gray , leaving black in the recesses , then use Space Wolves gray , leaving the shadow gray at dark areas.Finally , paint the model with a mix of Skull white 2:1 with Space wolves gray and highlight it with pure skull white.
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I use a different technique to paint my white. First , I prime the model with chaos black spray , then basecoat it with Shadow gray , leaving black in the recesses , then use Space Wolves gray , leaving the shadow gray at dark areas.Finally , paint the model with a mix of Skull white 2:1 with Space wolves gray and highlight it with pure skull white.

 

There are as many ways to do an effective white as there are wasy to do yellow. My way is quite different from the poster in the quote or with those mentioned earlier in the thread but I have no doubt that they are all equaliy effective. Use the different links that the moderator has posted and work out what works for you. Best bit of advice I can give is to definatly thin down the white. takes a little longer having to use multiple layers but the effect is much much better.

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I tried a method someone on the boards mentioned and was extremely pleased with the outcome.

 

Shadow Grey

Then several layers of thinned white. You want the white thinned to consistency of milk. It will look like it's going to run when you paint it on, but it doesn't.

 

If you are skilled enough you can leave some of the under grey as trimming.

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A method I have used is the following...

 

1) Base coat grey.

2) Dry brush white without trying to get full coverage. The objective here is to just get the edges.

3) Fill in the areas between the dry-brushed edges with thinned white. This may take a couple of coats or more. This will smooth out the chalky look you get with drybrushing but you won't have to worry about slopping white into the recesses because you already got the edges in step #2.

 

Pretty easy and results in a good table-top quality.

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Not only do I always drybrush white over black for a white fig (marine, fantasy, whatever) I must put out a quick hint.

 

I have just used the best primer I ever have, it is ColorTouch spray flat black enamel, and it is truly a killer tip (best thin coat, fast dry I have ever seen)

 

But, do what you want.

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