Sersi Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Berzerker Pezz: The most important thing is to get in their and make mistakes its the best way to learn. I'll be setting up a blog soon, where I'll be going over sculpting basics as well as my sucesses and failures in molding and casting. I'll be sure to post a link to it. NemFx: Hmmm...looks like we'll need another round of sketches. Thanks for your input. Brother Gothard: Oh, I agree about fashion coming 1st with Slaanesh, afterall it all about style, function would be Khorne. About the breasts they been through several iterations, each one either making them samller or more realistic. Really, I'm going for something between the FW keeper and the hang of real breast. I will most likely revise them again. Wiplash: Okay which parts of #1 would you keep? Thanks again for the responses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Berzerker Pezz: The most important thing is to get in their and make mistakes its the best way to learn. I'll be setting up a blog soon, where I'll be going over sculpting basics as well as my sucesses and failures in molding and casting. I'll be sure to post a link to it. I will be watching the thread with eager anticipation. I'm probably just going to hop into it with some wire and epoxy putty, but seeing your successes and technique will help. Right now I'm easing my way into it by dipping into more and more complex conversions/additive sculpting. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor The Great Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Just wanted to say something on the Princess/prince thing,Those wing look a bit.....''Angelic''. They look to good to belong to a deamon.But that could be just the fact that they are on a blank model.Once the armour and accesories are on the model i'm sure the wings will look less goody goody.Personaly i would have gone with scales instead of feathers,but my sculpting and modeling skills are about 3% of yours,so what do i know :P Anyway army looks fantastic. :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daemonclaw Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 this is fantastic stuff,and i could go on for ages with the smileys and compliments,but i will stick with drooling at your pics. could you give me any information on the sculpting putty you use?i know what the manufacturers claim but what are the real work qualities like as compared to greenstuff? do they harden brittle or plastic like greenstuff? are they good or poor on smaller scale detail? any input would be helpfull thanx and looking forward to more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Alright updates...at last... Keeper of Secrets: Here's my Forge World KOS and the inspiration behind this army; and oh how I love her.... She will be getting considerable attention and modifications. She's all pinned, gap filled, sanded and ready to go so... Anyway, I have planned the following conversions so far: 1. I'll be replacing all of the spikes on the leggings and glove with GS rivets/studs, just like the leggings of the Diaz damonettes and the steeds. I hate spiky bits! Chaos should be much more than that. 2. The breast plate will be aged gold and platnium, with the spikes on the breastplate replaced with miniture plastic gems. 3. Sculpting a branded Slaanesh symbol on the left inner thigh. 4. Sanding off the eyes on the accessory breasts and replacing them with actual nipples. I get the joke but the concept is just silly. These may or may not be pierced. 5. The resin chains including the necklace will all be replaced with modeling chain and metal foil. The Slaanesh symbol will probably be photo-etched. I got a small machine from micro mark, but haven't had time to play with it yet. I got it for my military and ship modeling, but will be following FW lead on this and future minature projects. 6. The up raise hand will be replace with a custom hand grasping a barbed whip. 7. Her sword blade had a large bubble flaw in her casting, so that will be replace with a heavier styrene and brass rod staff bearing Slaaneshes symbol from "Slave to Darkness". 8. Finally, a pierced tounge. Okay, here's a turn-a-round of the near final conversion on my FW Keeper of Secrets. Here's a couple of close ups. The eyes on the extra breasts were sanded off and they been re-sculpted in Aves Fixit, and topped off with Green stuff nipples. The nipples and studs were basically stamped out small blobs of GS putty using these. What are they you ask, well they're "blunt tipped injection needles". You can use these for all kinds of detailing on miniatures, rivets, eyes, embossed designs etc. I got this excellent tip from: http://jamesvanschaik.blogspot.com/search?q=rivets. It is a great tutorial with lots of tutorials and videos! Also here is a super cheap online site where you can buy similar blunt tipped needles http://www.zeph.com/applicator_tips.htm for about $0.50 each. Do what I did get the variety pack, you get two of each of the 15 different gauge sizes, for $19.95! Okay enough shout outs, here are some detail shots of the keeper, showing the new: studs, nipples, and pierced tongue. Comments and critiques are welcome as always. Up next the final clean up and casting of the Daemon Princess... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 The Daemon Princess Casting Walkthrough: I've gotten the Daemon Princess done up to the point of casting. So, I'm going to put up a walk through of the final stages ; and then I'll circle back to some sculpting tutorials and tips. Here I'm doing some final cleanup on the model using some 3M fine sanding pads. This mini was sculpted Aves Sculpt and Procreate putty, both of which take sanding very well. Still sanding with a finer grade pad. Here I am doing a final polishing of the surface with Acetone and a medium hard toothbrush, this gives an almost glassy smooth surface. All this time consuming sanding is necessary because silicon casting rubber picks up everything: fingerprints, stray hairs, nicks, scratches.... Well you get the picture. And here she is all smooth as silk...er...anyway. I have the model under a lamp to bake solid the Aves I used to fill in the holes that I used to pin the arms and wings to it. If silicon was to fill those deep holes the model would be locked into the mold. Seriously, having done the above before fill in any holes or voids, prior to molding. Next up: Making Mold Sprues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Okay, sprues... If you’re going to cast you have to provide proper ventilation. When you pour resin into your mold the air inside is forced out; well most of it. Usually, air that gets trapped inside the mold where it can cause voids and miss-cast parts. So, we have to add vents to the model. These can either be setup before the rubber is poured or cut in afterward. I usually cut vent holes in afterward (a tutorial for another time). For this model I'm pre-planning the sprues using styrene rods brass rods, styrene sheet, and a hot glue-gun. http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3672.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3677.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3678.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3680.jpg A couple of quick points, the white tab at the bottom in two pieces of 2.0 mm styrene sheet glued together. It’s important because it serves as both a large fill hole and vent. It along with the brass rods create a void space for any trapped air bubbles to go. I use styrene rod of various diameters, to create vents. Simply cut them to size, and use a light to heat them so you can bend to make complex shapes. You can use aluminum wire but honestly, styrene is both cheaper and easier to handle especially at this size. You can also use hardened hot glue to create connecting vents between smaller parts. I'll use hot glue when we get to the setting up the sprues for the wings; where there are lots of places to trap air particularly in the longer feathers. Next up: Mold Boxes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Seekers: We'll get to mold box, but first I want to post the final sculpt for my Seeker mounts. This is as far as I itend to take it before I cast it. I'll then detail the casts and reposition them into alternate poses. http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3698-1.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3699-1.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3700-1.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3701-1.jpg http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/Fifth_miracle/molding/IMG_3703-1.jpg More soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 WOW!!! Great information! I've been wanting a step by step on laying out sprues and creating 1 and 2 part molds for a while, oh man. I'm on the edge of my seat here. I've been having a hard time with pro-create. When I mix it 50:50 it's too rigid. It seems to peel off of whatever surface i'm trying to get it to adhere to. If I mix it with a little Apoxy Sculpt it sticks ok but maintains some rigidity. Can I switch up the ratios of the Pro-Create in order to make a firmer or softer putty or will this screw with its ability to cure? I'm about to start sculpting a bust in sculpey and wanted to do the fine detailing in epoxies and such... plus was wanting to sculpt my own daemons (doing a bust of George Romero as a zombie right now lol). But right now I have trouble just sculpting teeth on an axe... I pull the putty one way, it falls to another or peels off the metal -growl-. As I said in another thread... I think if I invest in some dental picks/hypos and size 0 color shapers I'llb e better off than large wax carving tools and industrial sized clay shapers. Anyway can't wait for next update and to sculpt some stuff yself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fausto2071 Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 these look phenomenal, do you use silicone tipped brushes? what do you use for lubricant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 I've been having a hard time with pro-create. When I mix it 50:50 it's too rigid. It seems to peel off of whatever surface i'm trying to get it to adhere to. If I mix it with a little Apoxy Sculpt it sticks ok but maintains some rigidity. Can I switch up the ratios of the Pro-Create in order to make a firmer or softer putty or will this screw with its ability to cure? One of Procreate's main selling points is that varying the mix will give you all the benefits of green stuff and brown stuff. Which is not exactly true but close enough, its not nearly as adhesive as GS, nor it it as sanding friendly as BS. Don't mix your procreate at 50:50 it far from the optimal mix. I like a 2:1 mix with twice as much white putty to black. It'll be more sticky. The type and amount of lubricant can also be a problem. If you use water use it sparingly, I prefer alcohol it gives the same effect and evaporates faster so it and it will remove any oils left by your hands on the surface. Use a nylon paint bush and smooth away; works great on Aves products too. I wouldn't use Vaseline with, it actually makes the putty flake off the model. Finally, here's a link to a tutorial that set me straight on Procreate and sculpting with putty in general: Link I'm about to start sculpting a bust in sculpey and wanted to do the fine detailing in epoxies and such... plus was wanting to sculpt my own daemons (doing a bust of George Romero as a zombie right now lol). But right now I have trouble just sculpting teeth on an axe... I pull the putty one way, it falls to another or peels off the metal -growl-. Remember that you can care putty once its dry. I would sculpt a smooth blade with Aves and then draw out the pattern of the teeth on the blade. Then simply use needle files and an x-acto blade to carve and grind in the notches. You have to make the best use of your materials. If you use a putty or clay that is sand-able. You can carve or sand it as many times as it takes to achieve the shape you want. If you flub it, just and some fresh putty and try again. As I said in another thread... I think if I invest in some dental picks/hypos and size 0 color shapers I'llb e better off than large wax carving tools and industrial sized clay shapers. Smaller tools will definitely help, Model-expo online has a sweet deals right now dental tool sets, mini files and Procreate, I got a e-mail coupon for 50% every thing in their online store just yesterday. Madness! Clay shapers a must have tool as putty scarcely stick to them. Don't neglect the bigger shapers tough their good for smooth wide flat and curved surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerker Pezz Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 One of Procreate's main selling points is that varying the mix will give you all the benefits of green stuff and brown stuff. Which is not exactly true but close enough, its not nearly as adhesive as GS, nor it it as sanding friendly as BS. Don't mix your procreate at 50:50 it far from the optimal mix. I like a 2:1 mix with twice as much white putty to black. It'll be more sticky. The type and amount of lubricant can also be a problem. If you use water use it sparingly, I prefer alcohol it gives the same effect and evaporates faster so it and it will remove any oils left by your hands on the surface. Use a nylon paint bush and smooth away; works great on Aves products too. I wouldn't use Vaseline with, it actually makes the putty flake off the model. Remember that you can care putty once its dry. I would sculpt a smooth blade with Aves and then draw out the pattern of the teeth on the blade. Then simply use needle files and an x-acto blade to carve and grind in the notches. You have to make the best use of your materials. If you use a putty or clay that is sand-able. You can carve or sand it as many times as it takes to achieve the shape you want. If you flub it, just and some fresh putty and try again. I'll keep that advice in mind for pro-create. The 50:50 mix is awesome for rigidity but that's it. What kind of alcohol do you use as a lubricant? Isopropyl? Denatured? Acrylic Thinners? I like vaseline for green stuff on a larger scale (like busts) and turpenoid for polymer clays but IDK what to use on a smaller scale - my experience is NOT vast. Basically I am trying to turn the Khorne Lord on Juggernaut's axe into a bloodfeeder and was going to sculpt teeth on the bottom of it with gums that stretch to the spikes in the middle. Should I follow the same philosophy when sculpting on something pre-existing like that? I was also considering rolling out small teeth and letting them cure, then gluing them on and sculpting over them. This is a medium which intimidates me! So your advice is great. Can't wait to see how your Slaaneshi babes shape up - they're looking amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 Okay, the pictures are back up with some additions. I'll be posting more soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inquisitor Xenthor Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Excellent work so far :) Im loving the concepts and your work on the Deamon Princesses. Though it seems some of your pictures are down again; The Seekers and Sprue's posts for sure. The rest is showing up for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiplash Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Excellent work so far :P Im loving the concepts and your work on the Deamon Princesses. Though it seems some of your pictures are down again; The Seekers and Sprue's posts for sure. The rest is showing up for me. ditto but :P that stuff is well good ultraforge's pleasure daemon could work with your army theme, it doeesn't quite follow the "daemonette" look but it would still fit in with the army Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Progress! :) cutting the Molds: I'll be getting deep into this later as I've draw up diagrams and everything. The tools: A scalpel a #12 curved blade. Buy a box or two of non-sterile carbon blades they're much cheaper. The curved blade will make this technique super-easy and virtually fool proof. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30684_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30685_md-.jpg Surgical retractors, got these new off ebay for $20, the name brand one can run as high as $200 or more! http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30686_md-.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Cutting stuff! http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30678_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30679_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30680_md-.jpg Here's a neat idea to held with the cutting. Push extra long stick pins thru the mold box until the graze the models surface. Make sure you take each pin with a dab of hot glue to that 1. they don't move, and 2. so silicon rubber doesn't leak out the mold box. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30655_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30656_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30657_md-.jpg The Original cut out of the mold: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30665_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30687_md-.jpg The mold: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30666_md-.jpg The Pressure Pot: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30668_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30667_md-.jpg A close up on eht lid of my heavily modded pressure pot. I'll explain this bad boy in detail later; but it started life as a $39.00 Harbor Freight paint pot. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30671_md-.jpg The resin filled molds in the pot: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30672_md-.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Resin Daemon Princess parts...At Last!: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30675_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30704_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30676_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30690_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30694_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30691_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30692_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30705_md-.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fausto2071 Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 this is officially one of the greatest threads ever~you work is spectacular! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Resin Parts for Furies and Gorgons: Here are some tiny resin wings that I've cast up for my Fury and Gorgon (counts as flamer) conversions. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30673_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30674_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30693_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30695_md-.jpg More soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Okay I've got several small piles of wings, and 3 freshly minted daemon princesses. I also have my steeds and seeker mounts ready. So their will be many posts this weekend. Anyway here are some design sketches: For one of the Princesses: I'm no going for them to be Chaos based. I want them to be more Eldar-ish. One might even be a corrupted Eldar Farseer, or Dark Eldar Lord for instance. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30706_md-.jpg Here is the head that I finally decided on, it similar to the FW Keeper but different enough to be unique, I think. Any I want all of them to have unique heads. Maybe something in a long and cone shaped head??? http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30708_md-.jpg Here is a possible armor idea. With, Slaanesh is all about the tounges afterall. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30707_md-.jpg Here is a possible soul grinder upper torso. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30709_md-.jpg The idea I had here is that sharks seem Slaaneshi; long, sleek, fast, and vicious. So the clamps that would hold the daemons torso to the mechanical body would be biting shark heads biting down into the legs and crotch... To sick? To tame? Let me know. Now about those Soul Grinders mechanical parts, I've been holding off buying them because they're kinda ugly and generic looking. Since this army is now more Eldar-ish than Imperal I'm thinking about just scratch building one base on the Eldar design, i.e. long and slender legs, and smooth flowing curves. So, if their are any Eldar players following this thread I'd love some input please. Further: Any thoughts on having daemonettes leading around chained gluttons on chains with Hannibal Lector style muzzles? More Later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Daemon Princess New Stuff! Here are some shot of the fully assembled princess model. Its resin tinted gray...ooohhh. Since I don't want 3 identical models I'm currently hacking apart two of them to repose. They will also be defrenciated by their armor, weapons, number of arms, number of breasts, and heads. http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31659_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31660_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31662_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31663_md-.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31664_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31665_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31666_md-.jpg More latter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Okay here is my first altered pose. Just a few words on techniques and materials. The best way to chop up plastic or resin minatures is to use a straight edge razor. You can get a box of a 100 for a $1-2. Just go to the paint section of Walmart a buy a holder, again it cost like $2. You can get beautifully clean guilotine-like cuts, that you could never get with an x-acto knife; without the hazardous resin dust that results from sawing. I prefer to use copper wire to pin as its strong and still flexible, again Walmart for under a dollar for 26ft. My putty of choice is Aves either classic Aves Sculpt or Fixit Sculpt tinted with Paine's Grey oil paint to taste. It's can do anything that green stuff or milliput can, and it far cheaper. In case your wondering the fin on the back was from a quick mold off the steed of Slaneesh. :tu: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31600_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31642_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31643_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31644_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31645_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31646_md-.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 More.... http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31647_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31648_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31649_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31590_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31597_md-.jpg http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/5/6/31598_md-.jpg Let me know me what how you like the pose. The right arm will be holding a sword or whip, not sure on that really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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