Slaaneshi Themed Daemon Army

[Sersi]

Okay so here's where I am on the running princesses' armor/clothing...

 

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38237_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38238_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38239_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38240_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[Sersi]

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38241_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38242_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38243_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38244_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

 

I went with the studded stockings that the old metal school daemonettes used to wear; the arm length glove on the opposite side will have similar studs and flesh hooks. I used Aves to sculpt the clothing and straps and brown stuff putty for the studs. Rolling the Aves out flat with some talc was a new technique for me, as I'd didn't expect it to stick very well to the model afterward. But a light brushing of alcohol and it stuck on just fine. In fact the talc-ed putty was far more controllable that the brown stuff was.

 

I just need for go back and add some additional rolls of putty to make the wrinkles, around the joints and stress points.

she needs some additional studs as well.

[Sersi]

Here's the crouching princesses' armor/clothing...

 

Lower body armor first:

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38247_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38248_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38249_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38250_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38251_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38252_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[Sersi]

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38253_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

 

I decided to go with pleated armor on the legds, shins and hips. She'll also have armored shoulder pads. I used brown stuff putty for this to try it out. I can see that I won't be using it much in the future as Aves can do anything it can; drying harder and smoothing easiers

I started on the upper body armor with Aves instead.

 

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38254_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38255_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38256_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38257_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

 

I also added some copper ringlets and chains to decorate the claws.

 

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/15/38258_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[dogfender]

Its looking great as usual =D cant wait to see the final product!

[logemaru]

Just fantastic. Theres nothing else I can say! Absolutely amazing work, I can't wait to see more.

[Sersi]

IanV:

 

Thanks, I'm no where near pro level yet but I am working at. In the real world I'm a game artist, so I get lots of practice digital modeling an sculpting.

 

Wiplash:

 

Yeah were starting to get some serious lag time now. I could prune out some of the pictures... Thanks for your interest.

 

Saint of Steel:

 

Not to worry the heads are coming. They're such a focal point for the mini that I sculpted and ultimately rejected several attempts, but were getting their. As far as painting goes, I'm looking forward to that but I'm still trying to figure out a color scheme for them.

Son of Gar:

 

Thanks for your interest. Were finally getting to the end of the Daemon Princess stuff, she will be available soon...

 

Dogfender:

 

Were getting there, this week for sure....maybe...

 

Logemaru:

 

Thanks! They're still lots more to this project though: Soul Grinders, Slayers, Gorgons, and count as horrors, etc....

[Fire Lord Captain]

Awe-inspiring stuff here! You have a great talent. You have captured the Slaanesh theme perfectly IMO.

 

I shall be watching this thread with interest!

[Son of GAR]

OOOOOOO how much?

[dogfender]

so does final product also mean the info on the pressure chamber will come with it or soon after? eh eh? :lol:

[Sersi]

Oh since ya asked all subtle like here the on my casting gear. Here's a run down of what you need and what to look for as well cheap places to by. See I actually was awake... :blink:

 

Molding Equipment:

 

We'll first run through the equipment that required as well as sources and equipment costs. Most of the items detailed below can be purchased through the mail with little effort.

 

Vacuum Pumps:

 

You will need a vacuum pump, this will be you most expensive purchase and the most difficult to acquire. The best source is e-bay. Just perform a search for the "Robinair SPX 6 CFM" vacuum pump. It may take a couple of weeks to find a suitable pump at a price you can afford, but it can be done. My pump cost was purchase new on e-bay for $187 shipped, and retails normally for $700.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/24/29510_md-.jpg

 

 

There are several important features to selecting a good vacuum pump:

 

1. Your vacuum pump must be able to draw 28 - 30 inches of mercury, or 1 Bar. The closer you can get to 30", the better. Most likely, your gauge won't ever get to 29" unless you have a serious air compressor with a Venturi Generator or a super vacuum pump. However, 27" or 28" is sufficient; you'll just have to run the pump a little longer.

 

2. You want to get a 3 CFM pump at the minimum. I have a 7 CFM pump, but 5 CFM is sufficient and 3 CFM is fine for mold making and casting. CFM stands for cubic feet per minute. This is how much air the pump can displace, the lower your pumps CFM rating the longer you will have to run it to de-air your silicon rubber. Since most rubbers have a short pot life (pot life - is how much time you have to mix, de-air, and pour it into molds before it starts to harden) of 30-45 minutes. Most pumps that your will find on line will be 0.25 to 1.5 CFM pumps, while cheap avoid these as they will take forever to de-air silicon. I vacuum my rubber twice, after mixing and again after its been poured into the mold box. I do this to remove any air that may have been trapped against the model when the rubber was poured. My 7 CFM pump takes ~ 90 seconds to achieve vacuum with my Belart desiccators.

 

 

Cost:

 

$180 + $43.25 S&H (Re-furbished / E-bay)

$600 new (you can find them on sale for ~ $300.00)

 

Availability:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vacuum-Pump-Robinair-15600-6-CFM-2 stages_W0QQitemZ130305048904QQihZ003QQcategoryZ53300QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem://http://cgi.ebay.com/Vacuum-Pump-Rob...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

http://www.wescotools.com/p-138-robinair-1...r-12r-134a.aspx

 

Note: My pump and most others come with male "Flare" style hose fittings. These fittings are only found on heating and refrigeration fill/purge hoses. These as expense hoses made to exacting government standards and cost anywhere for $35-60. You DO NOT need this type of hose! You can buy perfectly workable plastic tube for $0.40 per foot at any hardware store. The problem is connecting it to your pump. My advise get a pair of vise grip pliers and remove the factor hose fixture from your pump and replace it with as simple hose barb fitting like this:

 

IMAGE

 

Trust me you will not be able to find a female flare to barb adapter at anything other than a specialty online store. Please save yourself the frustration and just swap out the whole thing out. You have been warned...

 

 

Vacuum Chambers:

 

The vacuum chamber is used to remove air from the silicone on a molecular level, this makes the rubber very dense, and allows it to withstand the pressure of pressure casting of the resin. I use a vacuum desiccator chamber purchased from The Belart. It is a device designed for medical laboratories and it of far higher quality than most of the chambers found online. Also because its a common piece of lab equipment it allot cheaper that the a chamber designed specifically for casting. Mine was purchased new for $113.75 + $12 S&H, but they can be found on eBay for about $80. I would but this new as the price difference is negligible, and you'll have the manufacturers three year warranty to protect you.

 

There are several important things that make this chamber the best choice in my opinion. First it has a Neoprene O-ring that offers a secure seal, which does not require grease. You can use grease, but if you do only use silicon grease; it can be found in the plumbing section of any large hardware store. It has glass transparent, shatter resistant polycarbonate upper and lower sections offer unobstructed viewing of contents. This is important, polycarbonate is several thousand times stronger than glass and thus far safer; and also you need to be able to see into your chamber. It has a polypropylene stopcock plug that controls airflow into the chamber. The stop cock is a valve attachment, kind of an on off switch that redirects the air. This is how you will engage the vacuum and release the pressure of the chamber. You need a plug so that you can gently release the vacuum or the in rushing air will flip over your de-aired rubber, and coat the inside of your chamber with expensive rubber. When purchase your desiccator make sure is has a stopcock on it, they come without them and will usually be somewhat cheaper.

 

Here's my chamber: 420270000 Space Saver Vacuum Desiccator 230mm Clear

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/24/29509_md-.jpg

 

This it the largest chamber of this particular line, with an Overall Height: 12-1/8". The chamber has a removable interior plate, with an above plate clearance of 7-3/4". I just took the plate out and use the full 10" of interior space. When degassing your RTV rubber, remember to have a container that is much taller than the amount of RTV you’re mixing. When the vacuum starts to pull the air out of the mix, its rise quite a bit and could spill out over your container. This is why having a tall container like a pitcher is important. Even better is to have a transparent chamber with a stopcock installed, so you can break the vacuum if needed and let the volume collapse and then tighten it and let the RTV rise again. You can vacuum your rubber more than once. Of course, if you can avoid that situation altogether, you're better off; especially with quick setting materials.

 

 

Cost:

 

$60-80 (E-bay)

$113.75 (Belart.com)

 

Availability:

 

http://www.belart.com/shop/420270000-space...ml?y=5&x=29

 

 

Mixing Pots:

 

I use a cheap pitchers purchased at Walmart to mix and de-air my rubber in their perfect as they are tall and prevent the rubber from overflowing as it rises. As a rule of thumb you should use a container at least 3x the volume of the rubber to give it sufficient room to expand without spilling. They also have the advantage of being reusable and costing about a $1 each. Buy several of theses that way you can do multiple pours without having to wait 24 hours for the residual rubber in the pitcher to cure.

 

Cost:

 

$1-2

 

Availability:

 

Walmart, dollar stores, etc.

 

 

Squirrel Mixers:

 

This is paddle wheel attachment for an electric drill that is used to mix paint. It also works great for mixing silicon rubber. Silicon is very viscous which makes it very difficult to mix by hand; and if not mixed properly the rubber will never harden. Avoid the risk and save your hands at the same time.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/4/30/30646_tb-.jpg

 

Cost:

 

$2-3

 

Availability:

 

Can be found in the paint department of most large hardware stores such as: Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

 

 

Plastic Mixing Spoons & Spatulas:

 

These are used to scrap the sides of your mixing container. You do this one to ensure proper mixing as even the squirrel mixer will not hit the sides and very bottom of the container adequately. Second you used them to scraper the sides of the container. Silicon rubber is not cheap at ~$80 a gallon, so don't waste any. Make sure you get plastic, wooden spoons are porous and after curing the rubber will bond to them. Plastic mixing bowls and tools however are completely reusable, just let the rubber harden and peel it off.

 

Cost:

 

$1-2

 

Availability:

 

Walmart, dollar stores, etc.

 

 

Pressure Pots:

 

Now we have taken the air out of the rubber, because we are now going to apply pressure to the finished mold, with resin in it, to help the resin attain its ultimate properties. Clear resin in most cases has to be pressured to attain clarity. But regular resin will come out for the most part bubble free, and difficult to fill parts, like slender thin parts will fill with proper venting. The difference from non- pressured pours and pressured pours is quite amazing. If you do not remove the air from the silicone, then you will get some really funky looking castings if you pressure the molds upon doing resin pours. The air trapped in the silicone molds will try to implode, and deformed surfaces will be the result. Pressure casting is done in a paint pressure pot that is adapted to hold molds. Basically you seal off a paint port at the top, and you remove a paint reservoir tube that feeds to it. A paint pot is like a giant air brush bottle in effect. the are used to hold gallons of paint, for say, painting cars, boats or houses. You would attach a hose to a paint gun, from the nozzle that we would in our case, be removing.

 

So basically a big metal can, with a metal lid, which gets clamped on top, it has a rubber seal in the lip to hold the pressure in. The lid has a pressure gauge, and an in port nozzle with shut off valve, as well as a release valve. And the lid has an emergency blow off valve just in case too much pressure enters the tank; this keeps the tank from exploding should it exceed pressure. You only need to pressure your materials from 35 to 60 PSI, if need be. Typically 40 PSI is all you will ever need.

 

My pot is a Central Pneumatic 2-1/2 Gallon Pressure Paint Tank, Item# 93119-0VGA. Purchased from the Harbor Freight online store. at the time I got mine the were overstock as going for $39.99. Essentially, a Paint pot is a large industrial-sized spray paint can that is charged with compressed air.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/93100-93199/93119.gif

 

Cost:

 

$80

 

Availability:

 

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/...t&Submit=Go

[Sersi]

Oh and when you get you pressure pot you'll want to make some mods to it. I did this:

 

1. Use a pipe wrench to remove the paint tube from the center of the of the lid. This is the toughest part of the conversion, but sure to use a vise to hold the lid steady. When your done be sure to cap the hole with a NPT 1/4 plug.

 

2. Connect a quick release connector on the compressor hose where it attaches to the tank, as well as a quick release valve.

 

3. Use liquid thread locker on all the connections, its made for sealing gas lines as it works better than Teflon tape.

 

4. Replace the thumbscrews with ordinary threaded bolts. You need to get the top on and off fast. With hex screws you can use a cordless drill with a socket adapter to get the lid it on and off in seconds rather than minutes. threads are all that holds the lid on.

 

5. You want to avoid over-tightening the screws to create a good seal, as their threads are all that holds the lid on. So do this remove the original hard rubber seal and pour a silicon rubber in its place to create a soft rubber seal. Regular molding silicon will do. Them replace the original hard to prevent lid from cutting the soft seal.

 

6. Get a 8-inch diameter cake pan or similar plastic storage container. Use this to create a flat bottom for the otherwise rounded pot, and will catch any spilled resin. Finally hit the pan and the interior of the pot with mold release. That way when (not if) you spill resin in the pot you can peel it out after it sets.

 

 

That's all i can think of of the top of my head... so if you have a specific question fire away. ;)

[Brother Grius]

Your work is absolutely amazing! Truly inspiring. I can't wait to show this thread to my girlfriend tomorrow, as she plays a Daemonettes army.

 

 

is your name by chance Daniel

 

Nope. I have a younger brother Daniel, but he's not a gamer of any sort.

[Gatorsama]

Truly amazing stuff. I salute you.

[dogfender]

woot woot thanks!

[Sersi]

Still working on the armor & clothing such as it is :*)

 

Princess #1

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38696_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38697_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38698_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38699_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38700_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38701_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38702_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38703_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

Close ups on princess #2. It the top of her arm length glove, the copper ring and pierced flesh still needs to be added as well as the Brown stuff studs.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38691_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38692_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

So whats next for Princess #1.

 

Well, I'll be leaving the shoulders abdomen and back clear for tattoos and carved in Slaaneshi characters. I also will be redoing the loincloth as its to short and to wide for my tastes. I'm also considering adding some piercing and chains to the wings.

[Sersi]

Princess #2

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38706_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38707_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38708_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38710_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38712_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38713_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38714_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

Some closeups of the armor bits on princess #2.

 

Still a bit rough as they are being built up slowly and sanded carved into shape.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38693_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/18/38694_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

 

What's next for Princess #2:

 

Her leg and shoulder armor will attached to her skin with chains and piercings. Fixing some issues with the anatomy of the shoulders and right upper arm. I also want to make the clavicles and Sterno-mastoid muscle more. prominent. Basically tighten up the anatomy. The holes you see in the crab claw will have copper rings piercing them as well as chains with dangling human skulls. I'm also considering adding some stomach armor and second set of breasts.

 

 

Comments and crits would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

More later!

[Metal Fingered Villain]

Dude, I just looked though this whole log on warseer, and you made me look through it all again on B&C. I am officially doing a fully sculpted one god, proxy Zeentch daemon army. My hats are off to you for the lovely amount of inspiration and motivation. Are those demon princess's sculpted in apoxie sculpt or some kind of baking clay? Cheers. Also, I just solved my own question from warseer about the feathered wings, marvelous technique and it never even occured to me. Hehe.

[Sersi]

Okay more armor updates. Were getting close now...

 

Princess # 1

 

Added straps to hold the leg armor to her pierced flesh, and clipped straight pin heads to serve as rivets.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39014_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

I'm not sure about the rivets as they maybe to large. I also still need to add the straps to the left leg. Comments please?

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39015_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

Here's a close up of the shoulder armor, it still need some more sanding and shaping to round it out. I'm thinking about adding two addition segments to make the armor look more flexible. I also added some copper rings piercing to the claw arm they still need to be fixed in place with super glue.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39013_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

The shoulder armor is loosely based off this design.

 

 

 

I also added a ankle bracelet and snapped chain.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39012_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[Sersi]

Here's a close up of the back area:

 

The should armor is also held of with piercings.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39018_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39019_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39020_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

Here the how the piercing for the legs and torso look together.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39011_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

And finally the front of the torso. Here I added a second pair of breasts. The will be a pleated breast plate covering the abdomen and pushing up on the breasts. Basically the concept is this daemonette model scaled up.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39047_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.jpg

 

Here's the front of the torso so far. The circular plate covering the join in the straps of the shoulder harness will bear a Slaanesh symbol.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39017_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[Sersi]

...and finally a couple of beauty shots:

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39010_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39008_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39009_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39002_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[GlauG]

I'm loving how slim and sinister they're turning out, even with the armour. I picked up a scalpel and some putty and took to making my own Slaaneshi Daemon prince(ss), and it's a lot... chunkier. >_>;

[Sersi]

Okay more armor updates. Were getting close now...

 

Princess # 2

 

Allot less work was required to get this girl looking good. Started on the studs for the arm. I still need to workout how the materials attaches at the clawed end. I'll probably use a some kind of rivet, rather than a ring through flesh style piercing. I also adding some additional copper rings to the left claw.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39029_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

I cleaned up the edges of the arm and leg bracelets seen here:

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39023_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

And here: Also note the belly button piercing. I may change the belly to a finer wire ring.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39030_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

[Sersi]

Princess #3

 

She's needing the most work but I plan to get her done today. I've again changed the pose base on feedback given here. She in now in a landing pose with one hand flat on the ground supporting. I haven't decided whether or not to bring back the second set of arms yet, and currently she has to humanoid hands rather than claws. the right hand will probably be clutching a sword with a curved blade.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39041_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39040_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39036_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2009/6/20/39038_md-Daemon%20Prince,%20Daemon%20Princess,%20Daemons,%20Slaanesh,%20Slaaneshi.JPG

 

I have no idea how i want to armor this one so suggestions would be appreciated

 

 

More later....I'm casting 26 seeker mounts today!

[GlauG]

I'm tempted to say you should add a second set of arms for the classic KoS vibe, and it will help her stand out from her "sisters". Your mileage may vary, of course. ;)