Blood Angels Dipping Tutorial

[Rrail]

I'll be upfront. I'm an absolutely terrible painter, with no artistic skills, and I don't enjoy painting miniatures at all; I just enjoy playing the game. As a result, the only thing that usually holds me back from expanding my army is not wanting to paint more miniatures.

 

I just found out about dipping a week ago, but I'm hesitant to jump into it due to my lack of artistic ability or any real knowledge of dipping. I've read over some of the tutorials and even watched a couple video tutorials, but I am still not confidant, because all of those tutorials are for non-Blood Angels miniatures (minus The Army Painter's dread tutorial). I'm also a huge wuss about experimenting.

 

Is there a Blood Angels dipping tutorial around anywhere, for infantry? If not, does anyone have any experience they could share with me (as in, what do you paint on, and in what order)? :)

[BorisBC]

ok, I'll have to hold down the rage for dipping, but my suggestion would be to test on some older marines/mini's from your bits box first.

 

Otherwise, just substitute the main colour for red in the tutorials and go from there! :)

[Rrail]

I have a bunch of tactical marines I can practice on, so that won't be an issue. I know dipping isn't very highly looked upon, but honestly, I don't care for painting, it's not the part of Warhammer I enjoy. I just like playing.

 

Thanks for the advice on sub'ing the main color for red, that will be my first move if no one knows of a tutorial (or has any experience doing it themselves)!

[TrentL]

Don't dip them in red but paint buy red primer from something like Army Painter, then use the Army Painter Quick Shade (Which is a dip) that will get you further long than dipping in red paint. It will be fast and easy and will look a LITTLE bit better than dipping in red paint.

[Brother-Chaplain Apock]

Don't dip them in red but paint buy red primer from something like Army Painter, then use the Army Painter Quick Shade (Which is a dip) that will get you further long than dipping in red paint. It will be fast and easy and will look a LITTLE bit better than dipping in red paint.

 

I'm pretty sure he is referring to dipping an already basecoated miniature in The Army Painter's somewhat new product called Quick Shade. It's pigmented varnish that basically shades your mini's for you. It's pretty crazy stuff. I've never used it personally as I quite enjoy painting but from what I hear it's great for folks who either suck at painting or just don't like to paint

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Quickshade works wonders. I don't care for the painting aspect of the hobby. Then quicker I can get through it, the better.

 

The Strong tone is preferable.

In my experience, shaking the model's excess goop doesn't work well. It leaves too much. I use a paper towel to dab off the excess areas.

[Meracalis]

Quick shade + red spray on primer = amazing. Strong Tone is definitely the best for Blood Angels. I tried Dark and it turns Pure Red into something resembling Mechrite.

[Rrail]

I've got some Minwax Polyshade (Classic Black) that I bought on a whim after first hearing about dipping while at Lowes the other day. Should I avoid using it and purchase the Quick Shade instead? Based on what you said, Meracalis, it will end up being too dark.

 

I bought a can of red spray primer earlier today. Looking forward to its arrival so I can start testing.

[Rybnick]

I'm pretty sure the Minway wood stain is essentially the same thing as the army painter quick shade so I'd say try it out on one of yourtesters and if you like the results then you just saved yourself some cash. I've used the quick shader so far on all my ASM and they turn out really well in my opinion. I will say though that I prefer painting on the quick shader instead of dunking. When I tested the shader by dunnking you seem to get a lot more shade pooling in low spots on the model (not to mention wasting a lot of your shader), while brushing it on lets you apply more shade where you want it while giving the rest of a model a nice coat as well.

 

I do really like the results of the quick shader and for people like me who have limited painting time and limited painting skill it's very helpful for getting models painted and on the battlefield.

[Andrew_Beck]

can I just ask what tone of dipp to use for lich purple???

black undercoat under the purple by the way.

[Rybnick]

I've been using the Army Painter quick shade Strong shade and like the look very much. It's nice and dark without being too dark.

[Rrail]

I'm pretty sure the Minway wood stain is essentially the same thing as the army painter quick shade so I'd say try it out on one of yourtesters and if you like the results then you just saved yourself some cash. I've used the quick shader so far on all my ASM and they turn out really well in my opinion. I will say though that I prefer painting on the quick shader instead of dunking. When I tested the shader by dunnking you seem to get a lot more shade pooling in low spots on the model (not to mention wasting a lot of your shader), while brushing it on lets you apply more shade where you want it while giving the rest of a model a nice coat as well.

 

I wouldn't be at all surprised if the chemical was produced in the same exact facility (DuPont or Dow) and was literally the same thing. The only thing is, I bought "Classic Black" Miniwax Polyshade and someone said that a less dark stain lets the Blood Angels colors be brighter, and I want my models to be brighter. I guess we will see!

[lorider2]

Quickshade works wonders. I don't care for the painting aspect of the hobby. Then quicker I can get through it, the better.

 

The Strong tone is preferable.

In my experience, shaking the model's excess goop doesn't work well. It leaves too much. I use a paper towel to dab off the excess areas.

 

Yep, primed black, Army painter red, strong quickshade does a decent job. However, it is very shiny. Army painter also sells a ant-varnish that I would recommend if you don't like the shiny look.

[Prosedragon]

First, I think dipping is amazing and gives good results if done right. Don't let these snooty people tell you any differently. Just because they have "talent", and "patience" (whatever those mean) doesn't give them any right to look down on a perfectly valid method of painting tabletop quality marines.

 

Second, I recommend Quickshade over polyshade any day. The polyshade is ridiculously unforgiving. It's too thick and dries to quickly to shake off, and its dried before you can get it off with a brush. The Quickshade you can paint on. This is assuming price is little/no object - to me the Quickshade is worth every penny, even on a poor student's budget.

 

I'll edit my post in a minute and add some links.

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2370502

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2395443

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2364038

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2387783

 

Hope those help!

[Rrail]

I assume the anti-varnish can be used at any time, even weeks after painting has been completed? In which case, I'll wait to order it until I see if it looks too shiny or not.

 

With priming it black, would you use a spray primer, or a liquid acrylic gesso?

[Meracalis]

If you're using the red spray primer you don't need to prime black first. Red on grey works perfectly fine.

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Meracalis is right, at least that's been my experience.

[Jarakin]

I'm very much like the OP, not so much in that I don't enjoy painting, more in that I'm nervous of screwing up my expensive minis. To that end I'm going to be making use of quickshade also, I've got a test mini that I'm going to be using the dark tone one soon (painted on), and I'll post up results here as well as in my own WIP thread.

 

If you want to see the results of the Army Painter Dragon Red spray primer directly onto an un-primed mini, take a peek at the link in my sig, it's all I've used so far onto bare plastic and it works just fine.

[Prosedragon]

Jarakin - are you doing Blood Angels? I use Dragon Red for my Flesh Tearers, and when Quickshaded it comes out pretty dark. I use the dark tone, but I think even the strong tone would come out darker than most people want their Blood Angels.

[Jarakin]

I was planning on making them Blood Angels, I've modelled them all fairly ornately with bits from the DC kit (can probably see that from my WIP in sig), but I'm going to see how my test mini comes out before I make a final decision really, we'll see. Also, do you have any examples of your finished mini's prosedragon? I'd love to see them as I'm going to make up a Flesh Tearer HG to go along with my new Seth model, so some inspiration would be most welcome!

[lorider2]

I assume the anti-varnish can be used at any time, even weeks after painting has been completed? In which case, I'll wait to order it until I see if it looks too shiny or not.

 

With priming it black, would you use a spray primer, or a liquid acrylic gesso?

 

 

Yes, you can do it anytime.

 

I spray black. Its not necessary as mentioned, because the red can be a primer and if you are dipping anyways you don't need the darker look. However, as I primer I don't find it to be good and spraying black first produces a darker more consistent look. Especially if you are working with different types of material (old/new plastic, metal, used, etc) on one body/vehicle.

[Sanguinarian]

After a grueling week or so of painting 5 SHTs, I found this article. I hope it's ok to put up the link. Just in case, search the www for "How to paint a Terminator in 15 Minutes." :)

[Rhodric]

First, I think dipping is amazing and gives good results if done right. Don't let these snooty people tell you any differently. Just because they have "talent", and "patience" (whatever those mean) doesn't give them any right to look down on a perfectly valid method of painting tabletop quality marines.

 

Second, I recommend Quickshade over polyshade any day. The polyshade is ridiculously unforgiving. It's too thick and dries to quickly to shake off, and its dried before you can get it off with a brush. The Quickshade you can paint on. This is assuming price is little/no object - to me the Quickshade is worth every penny, even on a poor student's budget.

 

I'll edit my post in a minute and add some links.

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2370502

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2395443

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2364038

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...p;#entry2387783

 

Hope those help!

 

This is what I've been doing and it looks awesome IMO!

[Rybnick]

I've yet to find a matte varnish that doesn't leave my minis slightly dusty looking. I've only dipped and varnished on squad so far as I'm hesitant to use the army painter matte varnish I have again because of the somewhat dusty look (not on all the models but showed up on pieces of several). Does anyone know a better brand or a technique to prevent this from happening. I've heard that putting freshly varnished mini's in the freezer helps but have yet to try it.

[Rrail]

That "How to paint a Terminator in 15 Minutes" is AWESOME and really provides a good idea of what needs to be done. My painting materials will be here in a day or two and I will finally be able to start testing it out. I'm guessing that my "Classic Black" polyshade is going to be too dark. I'll report back with results.