blackbabyjesus Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 The Severin Loth kit is really excellent, s'why I bought two! What they dont tell you on te FW site is that it comes with the full Command Squad box, so you get all that sexyness plus a whack of parts to go with it. Yeah, at first glance I was a little apprehensive about dropping nearly £40 on 5 models, especially since sadly the Honor Guard will probably never see a table, or swing those badass relic blades. But when you look at what you actually get in the kit it's actually really good value for money, you get a full command squad set, of which you only really use backpacks, arms and legs. Everything else is a 'freebie' almost, I'll be using the left over bits to make the bike command squad that'll be in my army for sure, but first I need to make some 5 model bike units to be my super fast, super tough troops! I've worked out too how I'm going to solve the flamer/melta/plasma/power sword/powerfist conundrum. Magnets, and blood. Mostly blood from me holding tiny teeny parts and turning a drill bit by hand, but there will be magnets too. Have made a start on assembly of the bikes, here they are: 5 bikes to start with, I have another 5 still on the sprues, but they're such a pain to put together I can't face more than 5 at a time. Too many gaps to fill! No riders yet, they're tomorrow's little job to do, along with the magnets. And the blood. Their illustrious leader, a chaplain type dude, his boltgun is stuck to another bike because I was tired last night and picked up the wrong bike. Whoops!on the up side, the squad sergeant will now have a bolter to play with! Speaking of gap filling... here's what I have to go through to get them seamless, that putty (is incredibly toxic and gave me a mega headache) dries like concrete, concrete with diamonds in it, but it is a pretty awesome filler and can be sanded/filed smooth so it's perfect for filling in the little gaps between the two halves of a bike wheel or chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Race Bannon Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Or You could use a lot of glue. When you fit the halves together the glue gets squeezed out. After it dries, you shave/cut the excess glue and the gap is filled :P Takes a little longer and can be a little messy, but the end result is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mega_marines Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Or You could use a lot of glue. When you fit the halves together the glue gets squeezed out. After it dries, you shave/cut the excess glue and the gap is filled :( Takes a little longer and can be a little messy, but the end result is the same. S'what I do, works every single time. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Yeah, I've tried that in the past but it's never worked out for me. I always end up with something looking 'wrong', either a little pit where the sprue attaches, or a big glue fingerprint somewhere. Using the filler guarantees I get the result I want. The downside is having to use that particular putty, it's great stuff but if I don't have a window open it leaves me feeling like I've done 10 rounds with mike tyson! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hushrong Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Very clean and crisp Red Scorpions! I can't get over how nice the blue looks on Loth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hey hey, 2 updates in 2 days (on GPRS!). With this ferrero rocher I am spoiling you. Need your help again B&C, chapter symbol on the left of the wheel arch, or on the top of the wheel arch... I 'm leaning towards having it on the top, though it'd be more visible on the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DM0H4WK1988 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hey would it be possible to get the blue recipe for your Severin loth model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hey would it be possible to get the blue recipe for your Severin loth model? Yeah sure, started with regal blue over a white undercoat for the shadows, add ultramarines blue to that to get the 'base coat' leaving the regal blue in the deep recesses, then highlight with ultramarines blue, adding space wolf grey for about 4 maybe 5 layers til you're painting with pure space wolf grey for the very last edge highlight. Quick wash of asurmen blue to tie it altogether, then thinned badab black painted into the deeper recesses (most noticable on the knees) for a few layers, using less each time to almost glaze the deep shadows in. Final stage was a bit of an experiment, I used heavily thinned baal red to glaze into the edges of the shadows in an attempt to make the blue look a bit 'richer', not 100% sure it worked! Think that's it, it's been 6 months since I painted it though, so I'm not 100% sure. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update on the bikes.... Got the assembly complete now (not that much blood lost to magnets and drills, probably not even a pint!), just need to add brass etch for the chapter symbols on the bikes, and probably a couple of aquilas too, just to break up the flat areas. Left shoulder pads are lurking in some postal depot in Plymouth at the moment due to my flatmates being out when postie called. How rude! Thankfully I'm headed home early ish tomorrow morning so I'll nip in and grab them (along with some sternguard stuff, decals and something else which I've forgotten) then. Bases are on a wait too, I'll probably attach the bikes to them after I've primed them. Ooh, and in exciting (for me, probably not for you) news, I finally bit the bullet and bought a decent camera, it's a Canon EOS 400D and it cost me a small fortune, could almost have bought a warhound titan instead, but titans can't go round the world with you, so the camera won! The up shot of this being that these should be the last crappy iPhone photos you have to endure, providing of course the company I ordered it from dispatch it quickly and royal mail do their usual efficient thing and get it to me asap. Anyone able to suggest a decent way of diffusing the light from 2 outrageously bright anglepoise lamps? I've seen a couple of sweet light boxes made with some kind of translucent paper, but I'm kinda pushed for space! Enough of my waffling anyway, here's some pictures. Obligatory group shot (chaplain looking badass): Melta dudes: Same dudes with magic magnetic plasmaguns: No magnetised flamers yet, I ran out of suitable right arms on the sprues I brought with me to work. Whoops! Not sure if I'll bother though, I can't imagine myself really needing/wanting flamers on bikes. Sergeant also isn't magnetised at all, I figure with toughness 5 he should always have a half decent shot at swinging the fist, so I will always take it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Forgeworld stuff has arrived!! Having given all the parts a quick onceover to make sure nothing's terribly warped or miscast (nothing was!) I've realised that the red scorpions veteran set is an absolute bargain, for £16.40 you get 11 torsos, 11 MkIV helmets (WAY better than the ones from the black templar sprue, much crisper detail), 12 shoulder pads and a bionic arm carrying a powersword! Tempted to not buy just shoulderpads anymore, but if every model from now has the upgrade torsos and helmets the current models might get jealous of their cooler friends. The transfer sheet is pretty epic too... I didn't realise it was A4! SO. MANY. DECALS. Should make the banner for my captain and vehicles a little more straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Sounds like christmas, brother. I'm feeling envious. Mmm... forgeworld. :wacko: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 So annoyed right now, the 5 bikes I spent literally 2 nights cleaning, assembling and magnetising have just been virtually written off by the spray primer going crinkly. AAAAARGH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Crivens, brother. That's some bad luck right there. My recommendation: Either Fairy Power Spray or Dettol (brown). They don't melt the plastic (I can vouch for the Dettol but the Power Spray I've yet to try - I've heard it works). Of course, I think you're from blighty, judging from you're posts, as your 'location' is at sea. :sweat: Good luck, bbj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molloch Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 So annoyed right now, the 5 bikes I spent literally 2 nights cleaning, assembling and magnetising have just been virtually written off by the spray primer going crinkly. AAAAARGH! Fairy Power Spray will be your friend ^_^ stick them all in some tupperware or something, give them a proper soaking with the power spray and then leave them for about 15 mins... then you can scrub the paint off with an old toothbrush. it works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 So, after a good night's sleep and a second look at the bikers it appears all is not lost. The newer kits all appear to have taken the spraypaint fairly well, it's not perfect but it's good enough that I won't bother with a respray. The chaplain on the other hand requires a strip and respray, so I'll be off to the shops this afternoon to get some fairy powerspray. I'm windering if it was something to do with the older plastic (this kit is a good 10 years old, minimum) 'sweating' a little, or perhaps even after all these years it still held onto it's mould release compound? Either way, the result is a bubbled effect on all the plastic areas of the model so I'll strip him back down to as bare plastic as I can get and respray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMan Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 I doubt its how old they are mate. Ive been spraying/painting the models i bought a good... 6 - 8 years ago? And the black primer goes on fine. Ive heard that GW's white primer is a bit crappy, if thats what you're using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molloch Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 It could be a bad mix of spray, or the classic not quite the right temperature/dusty/slightly too far away combination of factors that can cause a rippling effect like you describe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 probably, the chaplain was the first model on the stick so it's possible I didn't quite clear the nozzle spraying into thin air and the first squirt was still a little bit 'iffy'. Ahh well, c'est la vie! Got some powerspray now so he'll be getting stripped this evening while I put the basecoat onto the other bikers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Sooo, the chaplain's bike is in it's second bath of powerspray (this time with the lid ON the container, d'oh), the first coat cleaned off the metal parts pretty well but left the plastic parts entirely untouched. My flashy camera hasn't arrived yet, but I did manage to borrow a friend's and so have some flashy photos, all stuff that's been posted on the boards before, but now in higher resolution with better image quality! Tactical Squad 1: Tactical Squad 2: Razorback: Some close ups/smaller group shots: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrannosaurus Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Stunning BBJ, even with extreme closeup they look amazing, very clean and crisp. Love the bareheaded sarge. Dunno if I can give any crit, maybe you could give them glowing eyes or have some osl on the razorback to take them to the next level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Fairy powerspray has failed me! It cleared the metal parts of the model perfectly, but the plastic bits didn't even budge! Thankfully I'm a resourceful chap and I've spent the last hour with a nice sharp new blade in my modelling knife scraping the worst of the wrinkly paint off, anything that's left over will be covered up with extra purity seals and nothing more need ever be said about the whole thing! @Tyrannosaurus: Thanks very much :) I would try out a bit of OSL or glowy eyes on these guys, but I've set myself a strict 'tabletop at speed' rule for all the core units, maximum 2 layers of highlighting, minimal freehand (squad markings only) etc. Only characters and other low-count units like the Honour Guard are getting anything more than the basic paintjob, thankfully it's all coming along rather nicely and even though they're kinda speed painted the force looks nice and coherent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subtlebrush Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Speaking of gap filling... here's what I have to go through to get them seamless, that putty (is incredibly toxic and gave me a mega headache) dries like concrete, concrete with diamonds in it, but it is a pretty awesome filler and can be sanded/filed smooth so it's perfect for filling in the little gaps between the two halves of a bike wheel or chassis. I used to use that exact same putty. I too would get headaches from it but it did a damn good job filling in gaps! Those painted RS are frakin' amazing by the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Sorry to hear the power spray underperformed on the crinkles. Nice pics of the Scorpions though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 update o clock! The chaplain's bike after a respray did the EXACT same thing, which is a pain in the arse, so he's just gonna get drowned in purity seals, I don't think there's much else I can do with him rather than just use another bike, which I'm kinda disinclined to do, they are rather expensive. The first 4 bikers are coming along nicely though! The yellow is kinda in the early stages at the moment, it's just Iyanden Darksun with a little bit of Gryphonne Sepia over the top, it'll be getting a bit of golden yellow love later on. What do people think of the yellow flashes? I was kinda torn as to what to do with it, since I don't want to much yellow that it becomes overpowering, but it is kinda part of the colour scheme to have yellow on the front and back of vehicles... I think I have found a half decent compromise, and it's pretty quick to do which is always a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
celes Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Nice. The placement of those stripes is perfect IMHO. Do you use masking tape to get your straigt lines or do you just have super-steady cybernetic hands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Neither! I put on the yellow as straight as I can, then touch up the edges with charadon granite, the stripes are by no means perfect, but for the tabletop they'll do me just fine. Once I put some markings on the wheel arches too they'll become even less noticeably wiggly! I'm also wondering how i should do the squad markings though, I freehanded all the tactical squad markings, but the assault squad symbol is a little more complex and fiddly. Also, do I do squad designation (e.g. Assault) on the right side of the bike, and squad number on the right as per the codex, or do a mixture of designation and number on both sides? Chapter markings are sorted, there's etched brass on the top of each bike's front wheel arch, as well as every marine's left shoulder guard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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