Blindhamster Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 its grey knights from the non profit film 'the lord inquisitor' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 A belated thanks for the info; Dawn of the Green Screen: At the behest of one of my readers I have attempted to add a bit of sophistication to my images; namely a 'green screen' so he/they can add a proper background my otherwise tawdry efforts in photography. http://i.imgur.com/Sescs2b.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Sescs2bl.jpg I still haven't ironed out all the wrinkles (groan!) in the overall background but for a first effort it does the job. http://i.imgur.com/gzjynN3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gzjynN3l.jpg To celebrate this new excursion into picture taking I'm resuming work on the Thunderhawk whilst taking an well earned break for work on the Reaver http://i.imgur.com/0Ki6P3y.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0Ki6P3yl.jpg Today I will address the spindle shank main landing gear to see if I can beef it up and make it retractable. That and finish up the little bit of exterior detail left to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Volcano Cannon Elevation Boot It's the little things you forget that bite you on the arse every time. I built the Volcano Cannon and the housing quite some time ago and beefed up the trunnion yesterday, slipped the ole cannon onto the shaft and "Lo!" there's a ruddy great gap behind the cannon that has to be filled or the install will look like crap. http://i.imgur.com/rjIhz4c.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rjIhz4cl.jpg Well I started making the cover/boot and glued it on and then thought, I should share this with my readers because it's a common enough problem and at least this will be my solution for what it's worth. So I affixed a sheet of thin styrene to the breach of the cannon............... http://i.imgur.com/M2Qn12P.jpg http://i.imgur.com/M2Qn12Pl.jpg And slid the barrel onto the elevating plug............. http://i.imgur.com/sMdGCcp.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sMdGCcpl.jpg So now when the cannon is raised the thin sheet of styrene disappears into the turret housing without an unsightly cloth boot. http://i.imgur.com/DRe9XcW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/DRe9XcWl.jpg Now all needs be done is decorate the sheet and install slide tracks and curved races for the sheet to run on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Boots and Struts Not bad for a days work, thankfully it was too hot to work outside; no Spring this year. Anyway the boot is roughed in just some rivet detail and some bits and panels for under the cannon to add. http://i.imgur.com/9NjUWWo.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9NjUWWol.jpg cannon in the stowed position shows the spine detail of the boot. http://i.imgur.com/EK9LQct.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EK9LQctl.jpg Eye Candy: Moving on to the landing gear the new strut sleeves give sufficient bulk to the gear and the foot pad leveling cylinder adds enough complexity to stimulate the eye. http://i.imgur.com/p6eFBpm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/p6eFBpml.jpg The leveling cylinder also stabilizes the foot pad so it can't twist round in the strut sleeve and it provides enough friction to keep the foot pad secure when the model is lifted. The landing gear still looks rather plain, it needs some hydraulic hoses sensor cables and strut reinforcements to perk it up Likewise with the nose gear..... http://i.imgur.com/OWmqyxB.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OWmqyxBl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Just a Song Er (a few images ) before I start applying paint for this beasty so it can be seen the finishing details and yes I cheated and sprung for a few etched Aquilas. Of course I can make Aquilas but making this many, this size, and all the same size was just beyond even my patience; God I want this painted and out of the queue so badly, I'm so sick of this Thunderhawk project; damn near 6 years on the process. So anyway the Profile: http://i.imgur.com/5VTQnB0.jpg http://i.imgur.com/5VTQnB0l.jpg The Quarter View: http://i.imgur.com/DhMuuay.jpg http://i.imgur.com/DhMuuayl.jpg Front View: http://i.imgur.com/7a6zGLs.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7a6zGLsl.jpg In attack position: (Yeah the canards are not glue on due to painting considerations.) http://i.imgur.com/PNrQPCy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/PNrQPCyl.jpg And a bird's eye view: http://i.imgur.com/jIrLvcY.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jIrLvcYl.jpg And Damn I forgot a rear view................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polythemus Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 This thing looks outstanding. as a longtime admirer seeing your efforts to perfect this thing has made me realize that sometimes its ok to buy models. OUtstanding work, no way that I would have the patience to do what you have done. Absolutely incredible work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 My Two Cents: There's nothing wrong with buying models, I've bought many in my time but the cost of models and resin models in particular has skyrocketed over the past few years and something must be done (at least in my case 'cause my kids gotta eat....) to offset the dollar drain. I offered an alternative and try to show what can be done when your budget won't allow dumping thousands of hard earned dollars on miniatures. A good case in point are the incredible Russian 40K forums that specialize in paper craft; producing high quality FW models out of paper. I learned a lot from joining those sites and believe me many of the artists there would put any one of us to shame with their skill at reproducing models indistinguishable for the resin originals. Now FW has offered what I consider a pretty mediocre $2000 dollar Warlord capitalizing on their name and rep. The model is nothing more than an undersized up scaled 'Knight' titan with very little innovation and imagination in it's execution and presentation (cripes couldn't they show it as a side by side with a Reaver and Warhound???? They wouldn't dare because it's too small!!! A minimum of 26 inches by their own formula is the requisite size for a Warlord and theirs computes 3 inches deficient.......). I'm thankful that I built my own Warlord but had they offered a reasonable production Mars Warlord uncompromised in size and grandeur I would have had my order in already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lykos Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I really want to see this painted to the same standard that it is modeled to. Fantastic stuff Blackadder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Thank you and so you understand that I have held off on the painting until today so I could upgrade even further that which still needed to be accomplished......... Thunderhawk Exploded View: I was advised gently by a reader that the rear of the vehicle seemed lacking in detail so I poured over the images again and found easily over a hundred rivets and bits I had previously overlooked so it has held up the painting process until today.......... Bottom view of basic hull and components: http://i.imgur.com/XsuOMZ4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XsuOMZ4l.jpg The image above shows all the components removed for painting which simplifies the the process plus it makes the model more amendable should I decide to add modifications. Note above that there is easy access to the forward cargo bay and that the interior walls have yet to be installed so I can wire in the lighting easily. The nose landing gear panel slides out for access to the interior and was such a tight fit I'd forgotten it was removable until this morning. Side view of the basic hull and components: http://i.imgur.com/66PXt7R.jpg http://i.imgur.com/66PXt7Rl.jpg All the components you see here are held in place with 4 deck screws, slide in pockets, a twelve inch long rig pin to keep the wings from drooping and lots of rare earth magnets. The whole model can be disassembled as you see it at anytime after the construction is completed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SickSix Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 You sir are insanely talented and patient. The hours you put into your projects is crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 The fun of these projects is in the engineering; once finished they are just sidelined on the shelf. I hate the completion because it just opens another window. I would much prefer they never reach fruition. "Insane" is a good call............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 I was asked what Chapter I was going with; I really like Grey Knights in this colour: http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2012/2/13/e909f09c106a1ec2b4873d633def89c4_6825.jpg http://thelordinquisitor.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Thunderhawk_Landing_wip_featureimage.jpg Can these be seen? I often wonder if my links are visible..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marine7312000 Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 They are visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Cosmetics? I'm going to try an experiment in colouring the Thunderhawk. I had satisfactory results coating my Warlord with dry pigment dust over flat black which gave an aged and weathered look instantly to the surface and the powder clung to the matte black finish so it does not come off on when handling. To get the finish I want on the Thunderhawk I am going to utilize a similar approach. This time with dry mineral powder cosmetic make up over grey flat primer. I have ordered a cadmium yellow/green cosmetic from Amazon; $5.77 plus free shipping and have painted the hull a flat grey. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51yEU9kqpBL.jpg I'm hoping this technique will give me a thin weathered streaked and mottled appearance visible in the images I posted in the above article. If so it will open an avenue heretofore unexplored (at least by me) in model finishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Done and Yet Not Done: So I painted the prime on the hull after stripping off all the removable parts and I keep finding detail I've missed probably because there was so much scribbling on the parts I confused it with hard detail. I added dozens on new bits of rivets and panels and trim to the hull and am now working on intensifying the detail on the wing/engine root; a project I had either forgotten or ignored but anyway this morning at 2:30 AM the way to accomplish this detail came to me and it is now 4:00 AM as I write and the preliminary pieces are glued into place ready for the finish of the modification when I reawaken later this morning at a more reasonable hour. Pictures Later: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Broken Knife Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I have often heard scratch builders talk about spraying models with a neutral colour while building - presumably this is why. Educational and inspirational as ever Blacky' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 If that is so it demonstrates the extent of my thickheadedness because I always prime my scratchbuilds grey and I always have to relearn that same lesson; Ha! To make a mistake once is ignorance, to make it repeatedly is plain and simple stupidity. Fortunately the prime is compatible with styrene glue so adding detail does not require scraping off the thin primer coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardCoil Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 This is fantastic and inspiring work. I'm trying to get into scratchbuilding myself, but find myself unable to do a proper cut through styrene tubing. It always ends up crooked. Could you give some tips as to how you cut tubing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 I presume you are cutting a free piece not one already glued to a model(?) You can try a reasonable sharp razor saw if you want to saw all the way through the tubing but the chances of a perfectly straight cut is minimal and too time consuming. http://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/images/expo_tools/735-44.jpg What I do is make a deep score with a saw or utility knife http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/293639_front200.jpg on the tube to penetrate to the inner surface and then snap the tube with my fingers by bending away from the score. then if the surfaces aren't perfectly true I file or sandpaper until the ends are true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Another method if you are using "Evergreen" styrene tubing is take advantage of the telescoping capability of that brand of tubing and stick the tube in the next size diameter of a fresh piece of tubing and score around the edge of the sleeved insert. Then slide the inner tube a bit out an snap. That usually gives good results but always check the cut end for squareness with a combination square http://www.daviddarling.info/images/combination_square.jpg to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardCoil Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks for the tips. I guess much of it comes down to practice, as the more I sand, the more crooked things seem to get :D I'll keep at it, at maybe look at one of those combination squares for measuring. It seems the less eyaballing and more measuring I do, the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Blank Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Not sure how I missed this before, but I wanted to say I am very impressed with this build. It's tough to imagine you are adding yet more detail - I am sure it will look amazing when it's painted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 In Her Prime: After six years in the making the Thunderhawk is finally in her prime. The end cap tensioners for the flying Laser struts are still drying and I hope the Cadmium pigment arrives tomorrow so with any luck I'll begin colouring her this week http://i.imgur.com/zbksp2U.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zbksp2Ul.jpg It's been a long painstaking process to reach this point but the ship has finally grown on me and I perceive a certain charm to the ugly brute after all. http://i.imgur.com/nF9P1YG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nF9P1YGl.jpg The gun turrets still need a bit of work before painting and I may rebuild them; I haven't decided. http://i.imgur.com/cf5diwP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cf5diwPl.jpg And finally the rear view which is often neglected during my picture taking....... http://i.imgur.com/XHrGvRZ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XHrGvRZl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Studio Silvernale Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I'm so excited for the next step =O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blindhamster Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I have the official model, and i can safely say that yours is miles better. nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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