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Blackadder's Scratchbuilt Thunderhawk

Blackadder

By Blackadder
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Ready For Final Detail:

 
I put the final frame pieces on last night, gave every joint a thin brush of Ambroid ProWeld Plastic Welder and let dry.
 
This morning accomplished a basic sanding to meld the seams and the basic cockpit canopy is done.

http://i.imgur.com/mJobNNHl.jpg
 
I have to add the detail still but that's for another day.
 
http://i.imgur.com/UADZHDal.jpg
 
The front windscreen still seems like the panels should be bigger.
 
http://i.imgur.com/AMnmlwml.jpg
 
Everything else is satisfactory.
 
http://i.imgur.com/VjdrUWql.jpg
 
There is still the rear Cupola to make.
 
http://i.imgur.com/THcpbEvl.jpg
 
Onward to the horizontal stabilizer..................
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Shake Your Tail Feather:

 
Well I don't want the tail to shake but I do want it removable because during transport anything that sticks out is libel to damage. A slide in horizontal stabilizer seems the way to go.
 
I began by making the rails the stab (shortened for convenience) will ride on as it slides into place.
 
I used 0.080 X 0.100 inch / 2,0  MM X 2,5 MM strips for the rails giving the robustness to stand dozens of assemblies without undue wear.
 

http://i.imgur.com/062B6K5l.jpg

 
The tail horizontal plane measures 8.0 inches by 3.0 inches 202,0 MM by 75 MM by my calculations and the core is 1,0 MM/0.040 inch thick sheet styrene. I give these measurement so it can be compared to a FW model as I have no idea what the FW product relate-able size is. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/iJqkpNdl.jpg
 
Another view of the rails that engage the vertical stab rails.
 
http://i.imgur.com/rq4X6NIl.jpg
 
The basic tail slid into place and secure. A simple solution to a vexing problem.
 
http://i.imgur.com/J67tvdTl.jpg
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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That Layered Look:

 
The first impulse is to cut the tail from thick styrene but it's better to use three layers for many reasons:
 
First it is nigh impossible to cut through 3,0 MM styrene with any degree of accuracy especially with hand held hobby tools. I try to limit my sheet material to 1,0 MM thick or less.
 
Second it's easier to modify your work should inspiration seize your labors as in my case where I have decided to add 'camber' to the stabilizer which will give it a more satisfying profile.  
 
http://i.imgur.com/ToxFEEGl.jpg
 
Plus the construction will be stronger.
 
http://i.imgur.com/f9Um0XCl.jpg
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Horizontal Stabilizer:

 

The basic airfoil for the horizontal stabilizer is roughed out and ready for the final sanding and detail

This is the front:

 


http://i.imgur.com/lC4DmWhl.jpg

 

The backward orientation of the 'stab' continually confused me and I had to keep reminding myself, "This is the front and this is the back." but it all went together pretty well.

 

This is the back:

 


http://i.imgur.com/19Aq3yIl.jpg

 

This is the bottom:

 


http://i.imgur.com/xZQDGLpl.jpg

 

And this is the top:

 


http://i.imgur.com/Z5L29kel.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Time To Take Stock: 

 

http://i.imgur.com/JjLof0al.jpg

 
http://i.imgur.com/nzrqBfnl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/X720kizl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/9UFzJpzl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/tOaIniRl.jpg
 
All the charm of a brick.....
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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You Saw the T'Hawk Coming; Now She's Going.........


Just think with the information contained on this thread you too could be in possession of a true scale T'Hawk; all it takes is therapy sessions once a week and a notification to your local Constabulary of an unstable resident in the district.
 
Laser spars stowed:
 
http://i.imgur.com/BU8DK29l.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/vkRp8tyl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/nNoEIg2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nNoEIg2l.jpg
 
Did I ever mention that the exhaust cones are made from Shoprite brand Mouth Wash Caps........... 
 
http://i.imgur.com/PxiKPZMl.jpg
 
BTW note the segmented end on the center engine exhaust. Where do you suppose such a ready made item comes from? As I sit back enjoying my well earned Martini I can only tell you a clue is in this post. 
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SCOTT_FRANCIS Veteran

SCOTT_FRANCIS

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Blackadder, Sir, I have just sat and read this entire topic and have to compliment your brilliance and dedication.

 

The effort and time you have dedicated to this project are awe inspiring. You attention to detail is simply outstanding.

 

What inspires the most is your acceptance and openness in your mistakes and your willingness to share your corrections.

 

I admire your work. Thank you.

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SCOTT_FRANCIS Veteran

SCOTT_FRANCIS

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Oh my good censored.gif, I have just cheated and started at the last post for you Warlord Titan.

Take the admiration from my previous post and multiply by a factor of ten.

The interior structure alone is magnificent, I have not yet looked any further.

You are truly touched by the Machine God.

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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Thanks,

 

Ball turrets:

 

http://pics.drugstore.com/prodimg/506458/450.jpg

 
I'm out on a limb starting this with an image of table tennis balls but I am going to try to use these for a basis to model the turrets. I want mine to open the same as the FW original:
 
http://chaptermasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/IMG_5875.jpg
 
So we'll see together where this will lead.
 
The balls are 1.5 inches in diameter (39 MM). First does anyone know the diameter of the Raven Turret? Just curious is all because I think this is a good size for the T'hawk.........
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Blackadder

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Well I had to play 'Dad' and help my daughter to move into her new apartment today but before that a bit of work on the turret. I have confirmed by an unusually reliable source that the turret ball is slightly more than 1.5 inches 38,0 MM

 

in diameter precisely my estimation but nice to have verification.

 

Anyway wrapping the ball with 0.5 MM styrene gives me a gun race of 1.6 inches perfect for the Thunderhawk.

 


http://i.imgur.com/ocVvFabl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/QP1pjpWl.jpg

 

With the gum bands removed there appears a good start for this interesting modification.

 


http://i.imgur.com/iYZm1kal.jpg.

 

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Marshal Rohr Venerable Brother

Marshal Rohr

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As you've been building this have you noticed that the model would be capable of being streamlined to look more embellished? The bit about Rogal Dorn's personalized Thunderhawk has made me wonder if the model could be made to look sleeker.

 

 

Edit: not yours, but thunderhawks in general.

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Blackadder

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When I started this model in earnest i.e. when I found the 3D models I am working from, the Thunderhawk depicted was a lot longer and somehow more believable than the FW offering.

 

Part of the 'streamlining' comes from the beveled edges of the layered armour on the fuselage; something I have yet to do over most of the length of that area but should require only minutes when I get around to doing it. Angling the nose more acutely also increases the streamlining effect with out changing the overall appearance of the original T'hawk too greatly.

 

All this was done before the advent of the current Thunderhawk spinoffs offered by Forgeworld; the Stormraven etc.

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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Conduit Collars:

 
You always have to be on the look out for interesting bits of scrap such as the subject of this post; conduit collars.
 
It would be pretty tedious to make collars to ring the penetration points where the large electrical conduits enter the housings; in this case the Reaver head jowls. Leaving these plain give an unfinished look to the area besides the more detail the better.
 
http://i.imgur.com/HyMYDR5l.jpg
 
Fortunately I have had this idea for quite a few years and have mentioned it before but it doesn't hurt to re-introduce it.
 
http://i.imgur.com/EYrG2lvl.jpg
 
When you cut large holes in styrene using wood hole augers you get these nicely shaped rings that are roundly beveled inside and out but usually get swept away with the refuse. These make dandy collars with a minimum of cleaning and sanding.
 
http://i.imgur.com/VayG0C3l.jpg
 
The image above shows the collars glued in place before the final cleaning and I believe they add a nice touch to an ordinarily bland area.
 
I have used these extensively on most of my models even as just tchotchke decorations.
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Blackadder

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The Man Who Do Too Much:

 
Previously I demonstrated and suggested an easy way to add detail to projects by utilizing scrap discs left over from drilling holes in styrene. That offering apparently fell on fallow ground other than to generate not a few replies that I "mistakenly" :D posted either triplicates or on the wrong thread entirely; Ha! I just felt that the information applied equally to all my scratch projects.
 
That intentional ''blanket'' suggestion was a precursor to the current project where I am attempting to recreate the FW "Ball Turret" for my Thunderhawk.
 
Making the turret operable may have been a bit too ambitious at least for the way I conceptualized the assembly. 

http://i.imgur.com/jTxQqXel.jpg
 
(BTW I am not aware whether the FW Ball Turret functions on all three operational (axēs) parameters?)
 
Anyway employing the scrap discs to supply two of the three axēs I needed now only address the rotational axle.
http://i.imgur.com/vowHL34l.jpg
 
I'm sorry to say I'm not at all pleased with the overall result which appears to me too cumbersome.
 
http://i.imgur.com/Vm344XVl.jpg
 
Especially the straps that append the training axle to the targeting race.
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Blackadder

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Foam Core! The Bane Of My Existence:

 
Once again I have come to regret the folly of using foam core poster board for a quick and easy and inexpensive way to frame a model.
 
It's alright for some; rational people secure in their competence that they will not change that which is satisfactory. But for a neurotic like me who is dissatisfied with completion and goes to extraordinary lengths to forestall that eventuality foam is a bad way to go. 
 
Here we see the first inroads into cutting a socket fo the future ball mount. The yellowed area is resin applied to foam board to secure the styrene skin to the poster board frame.
 
http://i.imgur.com/1WhabJWl.jpg
 
So what time have I saved when I have now to build the cargo bay inside out now to install the ball turret module.
 
The left side with the ball temporary mounted in the cutout for scale.
 
http://i.imgur.com/ar6z0pJl.jpg
 
There seems ample room for the entire module and a fairly uncluttered field of fire for this weapon with 'interrupters' installed to prevent shooting off the still to be fabricated canards and the wings and the engines.
 
http://i.imgur.com/ATnvi3Ll.jpg
 
A closeup of the accordion boot fabricate from a bendable soda straw for the recoil-less AA gun barrel.
 
http://i.imgur.com/VcXrXYYl.jpg
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Blackadder

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Not a Padded Cell:

 
Not yet anyway but working on it. I might just as well go for broke and install that cargo bay interior I've had in the back of my mind some time. Ever since I first saw these ball turrets.

http://i.imgur.com/ewQWvLjl.jpg
 
After gutting the foam from all but the ceiling of the forward bay and flight deck I find I have room to spare for all the goodies including the interior LEDs lighting.
 
I don't think I need go any further back into the structure because that would necessitate tearing out the wing roots and the landing gear housings and seriously compromise the entire structure of the aft superstructure; no that would be really bad.........
 
http://i.imgur.com/4pulBDLl.jpg
 
Anyway the cargo bay and ball turrets have a lot to keep me occupied for quite some time.
 
http://i.imgur.com/N5NLR5il.jpg
 
This interior shoot shows the inner space looking forward to the cargo door opening. 
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Blackadder Veteran

Blackadder

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Ha I guess this proves there are some people alive out there.

Did you just tear a chunk out of the front?!?!?!?!

Actually I only remove the rear panel from the cargo bay. I removed all the foam poster board because first I need to attach the ball turret mount ring and install an interior.

 

 

Did you just tear a chunk out of the front?!?!?!?!

 

Have you not seen anything he has said about himself being a madman? =O

 

I like the idea of side turrets on a T-hawk tho.

 

I've been posting my intent on this matter for over a week now so it shouldn't be a surprise. These adjustments should make for a more interesting model and give me an excuse to do a little electronic work besides.  But you are quite correct, I am certifiable.

 

 

 

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Blackadder

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Beefing Up The Bevel Ring:

 
Looking at the Raven image below you can see that the gun mount ring immediately surrounding the turret itself is beveled on the inner rim.
 
http://i.imgur.com/g4gEc0xl.jpg
 
Since I rarely use 2,0 MM styrene especially precision holes the best way is IMHO is to sandwich flexible 2,0 MM strips between 1,0 MM gluing and clamping to hold the strip to the backing.
 
http://i.imgur.com/xmjlYrrl.jpg
 
Since the bevel is quite thick a second strip is required as seen below.
 
http://i.imgur.com/L3ZOzxgl.jpg
 
 
 
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Blackadder

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The Thunderhawk Has Balls:

 

Just a dry run to see how everything fits. I have to open up the bevel a bit but the overall look is pretty good. The size seem alright not too small and not too big.

 


http://i.imgur.com/xMPXppfl.jpg

 

It's going to take some time to get use to how much the turret protrudes from the mount; once I enlarge the bevel I may recess the ball a few millimeters.

 


http://i.imgur.com/9ee05Vol.jpg

 

The next few images just display the range of movement of the turret:

 


http://i.imgur.com/uZu3lWDl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/eQUkzfwl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/u4cJTVjl.jpg

 

And these last show the bevel before I smooth the surface.

 


http://i.imgur.com/MuDxchGl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/q2itwZ1l.jpg
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