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Jimmi's Worldeaters WIP


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Normal snow

 

1) Mix up some Bicarb of soda and PVA glue in a 50/50 ratio until you have a toothpaste texture. You can add a little dash of water to make the paste easier to move around on the base. DO NOT USE either woodglue and/or baking powder as they yellow over time..........and no one likes yellow snow!

 

2)Use appropriate tool (i use a sculpting tool) to drop paste onto the desired area and to push it around until your happy. I let it dry and do a few layers to get nice piles of settled snow.

 

3) On the final layer, sit your model in a tray and pile up neat bicarb over the PVA bicarb mix. Leave this to dry overnight before moving the model.

 

4) Once dry, remove model from tub and use a brush to dust off any excess powder.

 

5) Spray with matt varnish to seal it all!

 

 

Melting snow

 

1)Add some greenstuff to the surface on the base, textured it with a rock to create the ground then painted it as normal.

 

2)Paint a puddle of PVA around the feet, leaving the bit closest the feet untouched so it looks "dry" and you can see the untouched GS ground texture.

 

3)Once the PVA goes off add the bicarb/PVA snow leaving a "border" of the PVA layer visible.

 

4)Once thats dry knock off any excess snow then spray dullcote varnish over the hole thing.

 

5) Now go back over the PVA with brush on gloss varnish to make the ice look wet, ensuring to get a bit of varnish on the overlap between the ice and snow to sort of blend the melting effect.

 

6) Pat yourself on the back!

 

 

It was down near the bottom of page 4 but it was easier for me to just copy/paste.

 

Hope that helps :)

Normal snow

 

1) Mix up some Bicarb of soda and PVA glue in a 50/50 ratio until you have a toothpaste texture. You can add a little dash of water to make the paste easier to move around on the base. DO NOT USE either woodglue and/or baking powder as they yellow over time..........and no one likes yellow snow!

 

2)Use appropriate tool (i use a sculpting tool) to drop paste onto the desired area and to push it around until your happy. I let it dry and do a few layers to get nice piles of settled snow.

 

3) On the final layer, sit your model in a tray and pile up neat bicarb over the PVA bicarb mix. Leave this to dry overnight before moving the model.

 

4) Once dry, remove model from tub and use a brush to dust off any excess powder.

 

5) Spray with matt varnish to seal it all!

 

 

Melting snow

 

1)Add some greenstuff to the surface on the base, textured it with a rock to create the ground then painted it as normal.

 

2)Paint a puddle of PVA around the feet, leaving the bit closest the feet untouched so it looks "dry" and you can see the untouched GS ground texture.

 

3)Once the PVA goes off add the bicarb/PVA snow leaving a "border" of the PVA layer visible.

 

4)Once thats dry knock off any excess snow then spray dullcote varnish over the hole thing.

 

5) Now go back over the PVA with brush on gloss varnish to make the ice look wet, ensuring to get a bit of varnish on the overlap between the ice and snow to sort of blend the melting effect.

 

6) Pat yourself on the back!

 

 

It was down near the bottom of page 4 but it was easier for me to just copy/paste.

 

Hope that helps :)

 

 

Cheers mate :( appreciated!

I will mention that due to the white textured nature of the bicarb snow, even with a varnish coat its quite easy to rub dirt into the "grain" of the snow by handling the models. I get around it by A) holding the model by the plastic base and :tu: not letting any grubby handed urchins touch my models........... *pulls scalpel* (in an aggresive prison voice) "DONT TOUCH MY STUFF MAN" etc

 

Or in my case, dont let your missus move your models to "dust" around!

 

*DISCLAIMER* - Jimmi and the worldeaters do not endorse, and are not responsible for any violence that this thread may encourage :lol:

I got a bit excitable on the lasercutter and decided to make a "choppy" doser blade. There are about 60 peices in the saw blade assembly and i made it magnetic for removability.

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0370.jpg

 

I've been meaning to comment, and after your PM I was reminded that I just wanted to publicly say...

 

The Dozer Blade is brilliant! It screams 'Khorne', and I can see images of enemy troops trying to get out of the way of a Tank Rush, only to be threshed like a stalk of wheat and pulled under the tank in a gory mess.

 

I had also considered doing NMM for the rebuilding of my army, and then I considered just how much metal I had in (on) the force. After I woke up from the mild aneurism I gave myself, I decided against it. Hopefully it won't cause you too much frustration, since the final outcome is outstanding.

 

As usual, keep on the stunning work. Always looking forward to seeing more.

Quick update time,

 

I got involved in a discussion about bloodthirster models Discussion is in the throne of skulls subforum for those interested. One chap said he liked the FW prince model so much that he had built 2 versions with different weapon options. I've previously mentioned about possible magnetic wings but i suddenly thought hang on, why not just build a prince/thirster with all magnetic options and kill 2 birds with one stone. Then i remembered the spare axe FW sent after my miscast part woes with this model...............anyway, i spent last night doing some bloodthirster weapon options with obligatory magnets. Im pretty happy and tonight i'll be detailing both axe handle and whip

 

Chaos manticore wings will be soon to follow.

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0390.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0386.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0389.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0388.jpg

 

Hope you like!

 

Oh almost forgot...

 

 

@Subtlediscord - Thanks for the comments again, im glad you like the concept behind the meat blender. I'll send you a little flat pack to knockup with your other bits once you decide what you want cutting.

With regards to the NMM, ive been debating it for the last 2 weeks and i've decided to switch to metallics before i go insane. The effect of NMM is very pleasing but its putting me off painting with how long it takes. Zhufor will remain as he is, as will the herald who cant be dismantled to repaint, but the termi's and everything after will be repainted in metallics..........slightly gutting but good for my mental health in the longrun.

 

I'll be posting on your topic as soon as a get a few mins at break, loving the 3D modelling!

Seconded, sad to hear about the demise of the NMM but understand the reasoning, many times I have cursed the convoluted paint scheme I chose for my marines in the exuberance of youth and 2nd Edition style small armies!

 

Looking forward to seeing how the metallics turn out.

 

FTE

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

I'll be using GW metallics as apparently the vallejo ones are not as good according to many people. Hopefully the postman wil drop them off later! I'll be using a true metallics technique similar to NMM, using lots of black glazes to add real contrast to any dark spots. Hopefully should be quicker the NMM technique.

 

Progressed a little on the bloodthirster weapon options last night by adding a wrapped handle to his axe, doing some light GS work to fill a couple of gaps around the wrist, also added a pair of tails to the whip using 0.8mm fuse wire, i just need to find some small beads and hooks to add to the ends and thats basically done. Pics tomorrow once i've finished the GS work tonight.

And here are the weapon conversions finished. Just got the wings to do some point soon. Pretty happy with how this conversion went, it wasnt too hard at all and i've ended up with 2 models in 1.

 

Nearly all the bits in the conversion can be made from the axe you get in the kit. Only the fusewire whip, small bits of brass etch and the styrene whip handle end were added, so all in all you can do this basic swapout pretty much from the original kit.

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0391.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0393.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0394.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0395.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

 

Jimmi

  • 1 month later...

Right time for an overdue update, i thought i'd better rescue this thread from page 15 of the forum :)

 

Not got too much done as i'm learning solidworks so it been eating my spare time somewhat. However, ive finished the prince conversion and am in the painting stages. here are some up to date WIP photos.

 

The magnetic wings were a pig to do, but i wanted to keep the original model with spikey back horn things. All in all i'm pretty happy with the swapout as i can switch between prince and bloodthirster now. Worth the pain in the longrun. Wings used were bought on american ebay and are the chaos manticore wings with a lot of joining and greenstuffing where they join each other.

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0398.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0399.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0400.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0401.jpg

 

Back view minus the wings

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0402.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0405.jpg

 

 

magnets

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0406.jpg

 

Cheers guys,

Outstanding pieces. I just ordered some FW Khorne Termi bits, to make a Lord as a painting study and display piece (just for fun, the rest of my force is pure Nurgle). I'll definitely be borrowing from some of your technique for the piece.

Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated.

 

Im busily painting away so hopefully, i'll have some more pics up soon

 

@ Greyall - It all started as a money making plan to save buying the same model twice and converting 2 versions. As for the icon, its a bit of a weird location......but not as wierd as the chain thong!!

 

@ Circus Nurgling - Thanks for the compliment, glad you like it. I cant recommend the FW kit enough. Some people dont like the scale but i think its ok, the sculpts more than make up for it. Look forward to seeing your model, good luck.

 

@ Tanith Ghost - Thanks buddy. If i only had twice as many hours in the day.....I might eventually find the time to do commisions, hopefully.

 

@ Biohazard - Thanks, it was a bit tricky to line the wings up, i ended up making an armature then pressing the soft greenstuff on the models back make a nice joint.

 

@ Subtle discord - Thanks, glad you like the conversion. I'm with you.......you can never have too many magnets, i dont know how people coped before without easy weapon swapouts! Loving your progress on your black legion by the way.

 

@Davidkits - Thanks for the compliment. The contemptor is nearly ready for metallics but i got sidetracked with the prince. Butcher cannon coming soon as i dont like the one that FW made for the new daemon engine thing. I may paint some more of the contemptor tonight for a change.

 

thanks guys,

  • 1 month later...

Good afternoon chaps,

 

Just giving this thread a much needed update. Sorry to say its not a huge update but ive been experimenting with some techniques from the Forgeworld modelling masterclass books which i must say, i highly recommend. They are full of really easy and effective techniques that give very satisfying results...........

 

Anyhow, onto my update. My contemptor is nearly done. Red has been heavily weathered with painted on chips and damage. This didnt take as long as you would think and im really chuffed with the outcome.

Metallics are almost done. Arms are still being shaded but the rest of the metals have been fully shaded. I just have to go over the gold to add a bit more shine in places then do my obligatory mithril highlight. I've slightly adapted a true metallics technique to get this effect, it just uses a slightly thicker black glaze to reduce the amounts of shading which you have to buld up using this technique.

 

Still to do......

 

  • Planet logos will need tidying up
  • Metallics need highlights and rust
  • Bone needs darkening slightly
  • Base
  • Butcher Cannon Arm

 

Pics -

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0422.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0426.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0425.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0428.jpg

 

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/jimmimellows/DSC_0427.jpg

 

 

Any input and feedback appreciated,

 

Thanks guys,

batu - thanks bud, glad you like it. Not too much to do to it to be honest, its mainly shading metallics and highlights so its subtle changes really. More detailed pictures of the sculpting and iconography are on page 5 onwards i think.......its sporadic as i get bored easily and jump between about models, everthing tends to span about 4 pages. I dont have many completed models yet.

 

Rhetoricus - thanks man, i was unsure of the pose for a while but now it has paint it seems a bit more grounded. I'm hoping a bit of blood splatter adds to the effect and makes it even more imposing.

 

Hoping to have more pics up in the next few days, hopefully a little bit more professionally taken. Aiming to have the metallics done by then, if not the whole thing provided i dont get distracted by real life. The photos i posted earlier look really dark in places, and although the model is dark and grimy, its not quite as dark in real life.

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