The Apocalypse Crusade

[tvih]

Chapter Upgrades are finally here, and coincidentally the 2x1mm magnets arrived today, too. I must say they are much stronger than I expected.

 

One weird thing about the Chapter Upgrade kits is, in my opinion, the terminator bits. One kit has enough shoulders to upgrade no less than 12 terminators, assuming one keeps the "Crux Terminatus" stock shoulders, which I think are meant to be kept. But even if one replaces 'em, that's still enough for 6. But there's only 4 of those... eh, mini-shields that are attached to the shoulder. So only enough for 4 terminators. Seems strange to me.

 

I'm thinking maybe I should take a break from the AoBR terminators (nearly 10 hours with them yesterday and the sergeant isn't even finished...) and maybe try my hand with the Rhino now that the upgrade bit are here.

[tvih]

Meh, didn't get much done today after all. Only things I did were dry-fitting the Rhino special Templar parts and magnetizing the Hunter-Killer Missile so that I can take it off the smaller hatch thing (I have the storm bolter "pintle-mounted") if need be and turn it upside down to be a closed hatch... because of the lack of an additional closed hatch in the kit. Did it a bit poorly in the sense that the converted attachment can't take a storm bolter now. If I wanted to add one that is like the one that comes with the Rhino kit, I'd have to make a small recess to one magazine to make it fit. Silly that the Rhino kit doesn't come with a second storm bolter, by the way. I guess I'll have to get one as a separate bit at some point, but I guess at that point it'd be almost as easy to get a second hatch while at it, which would partially remove the need for a magnetized solution anyway.

 

Further magnetizing of the Rhino might follow tomorrow. At least the big top hatch thing probably, might leave the side doors for later 'til I get the slightly bigger 3x1mm magnets. I was also thinking of adding two of the extra templar cross symbols to the recesses near the front of the side walls, but that'd prevent adding a FW extra armor kit (expensive, admittedly) later on, as it seems like it'd be possible to remove and re-add it as necessary barring such extra protrusions. Decisions, decisions. Additionally perhaps the sheathed decorative sword to the back door... hmm.

 

Oh, and what I originally came here to ask - is it just me, or do the front and back parts of the marine torsos - whether from BT upgrades or any of the battleforce squads - fit together quite poorly? There's slight misalignment and on top of that there always seems to be a notable gap between the parts as well. Haven't painted any yet so I don't know how "obvious" it'll be when assembled and painted, but seems suboptimal at this point :)

[Marshall Crimor]

Oh, and what I originally came here to ask - is it just me, or do the front and back parts of the marine torsos - whether from BT upgrades or any of the battleforce squads - fit together quite poorly? There's slight misalignment and on top of that there always seems to be a notable gap between the parts as well. Haven't painted any yet so I don't know how "obvious" it'll be when assembled and painted, but seems suboptimal at this point :)

 

It is not just you. I am usually pleasantly surprised when pieces fit together without some crazy seam or a deep chasm that needs some modeling putty. I find myself filing, cutting, re-positioning and filling holes for a couple hours as I assemble my models. Not a big deal though, I think the prep work is part of the hobby. I did not buy AoBR or a battle force though. I started with small tactical squad boxes + upgrade box, but I assume that the vanilla space marine body sprues are pretty standardized across the sets.

[tvih]

Ugh, I undercoated the Rhino... and now I'm wondering how it'll end up looking like. I didn't realize some of the surfaces of its pieces were so uneven! Dry-fitted pic:

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/rhino-undercoat1.jpg

 

The sides came out quite ok, except the rear third of the left flank (the one not seen in this pic) got a too heavy dose... hopefully it'll turn out ok after brushing. But the side doors and of course in the picture quite clearly the top are all but even. The texture of the plastic itself leaves those weird-looking patterns. In general, does simply doing the brushed layer on top of the spray cover this "unevennes"? Should I use a slightly thicker paint mix than usual?

[tvih]

Brushing seems to have achieved nothing. I suppose I might try a second layer of spray, but seems unlikely that anything thin enough to not obscure detail would cover up the uneven surfaces. Yet I don't see other people's models having such obvious irregularities in the paint job, so surely someone can point me towards a way of solving it?

[redmapa]

What I do with the black is I spray a thin layer of black spray then I even it out with citadel black (whatever its called now)..

[Arthanor]

You are having a hell of a time!

 

I've never had to deal with varying plastic texture. My primer/basecoat always does the trick, usually in one application, sometimes 2. I know people who was their models before priming, to remove mold release agent. I have never done it and never felt a need for it, but maybe that's what is causing you issues. Dish soap or other "soft" soaps are usually enough to deal with that. My advice would be: One more normal coat of primer, if it's still uneven, try to wash it. But honestly, that's a guess..

 

Sorry I can't be more help. Hopefully Honda can bring his considerable recovery skills to bear on your rhino!

[tvih]

Redmapa, well that's exactly what I tried, paintbrushing Abaddon Black on top of it. But either it was too thick to be smooth or it didn't cover the irregularities. It's strange that none of the tutorials I've read has touched on this issue. I can clearly see the same irregularities of the surfaces of pieces that I haven't used, like the BT Land Raider door bits.

 

Arthanor, hell of a time indeed. Washing shouldn't be the issue, since the surface irregularities remain regardless (I tested with the aforementioned LR bits).

 

I guess I'll just have to try spraying again tomorrow, better chances of getting an even second layer that way rather than by brushing.

[tvih]

Sigh. Applied at least six more heavy spray layers on the Rhino, and I suppose for the most part it's borderline acceptable now (rear hatch and the front "visor" still need work at least). Dreadnought also has its issues, like side torso not being entirely even but further spray layers at least aren't possible because the sarchophagus already seems to have too much paint on it, losing detail :(

 

I think I should've just stuck with painting marines, contrary to my WW2 modeling in WH40k that seems to be less troublesome -_- Now I probably don't even have enough spray anymore for all the rest of the marines...

Edited August 10, 2012 by tvih

[chaplaincliff]

if you don't mind me asking, where do you live? weather can affect your primer a whole bunch, also the more you spray the worse the problem will be exagerated. you might want to try spraying inside with the AC running, or outside in the coolest part of the day.

[tvih]

if you don't mind me asking, where do you live? weather can affect your primer a whole bunch, also the more you spray the worse the problem will be exagerated. you might want to try spraying inside with the AC running, or outside in the coolest part of the day.

Finland. It has been nice and cool lately - though unfortunstely also windy. But in any case I think the model is to blame rather than the paints. I just do not know why the surfaces of the plastic are so uneven. I do not recall having that problem with any of my WW2 models.

 

I have been away for the weekend and not sure if I have the time today, but tomorrow at the latest I will try to finish the model. Unsure about the dread, might have strip it due to the overfilled sarchophagus area.

[tvih]

Ugh, it's really getting ridiculous. Progress is so slow. I just spent at least 2 hours on just the front plate thingie of the Rhino alone:

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/rhino-wip1.jpg

 

It's not even as good as it ought to be - too subdued red on the cross, messy edges between the red, white and black, etc etc.

 

Not sure what I'll do with the transitions between white and black on the "fenders". Between the brushes being more like shotgun brushes than detail brushes and my shaky hands, I just can't seem to get the transition smooth and straight. Maybe some sort of wash to fill in the edges? But if I mess that up, it'll be one pain in the rear to fix...

 

Still on the to-do list are the side and rear doors (which still need more layers of basecoat to be even, ack!), interior (the whole thing's still just dry-fitted), the weapons... and of courses the wheels and tracks. So I'll probably clock in a completion time of 20+ hours for this thing. If only the quality matched the length of the effort, it'd be one thing - but it doesn't. And painting white... good grief what a pain in the butt. To do those fender whites I had to paint 12+ layers total, starting from codex grey and ending with white scar. And it's not even smooth and even. The white scar seems impossible to get a smooth finish with. I'm thinking of burning it for heresy.

 

Other than the Rhino, I magnetized one CC termie's arms and torso as a test. At least that went well enough. Just that I'm still unsure what to do with the shoulders, given there's not enough for the spare arms. I'd certainly need a whole lot more magnets if I magnetize shoulder pieces to boot, not to mention too many magnets per model and parts will inevitably fall off more often than one would care for since you have to grab the model from somewhere when moving/handling it.

[Arthanor]

Nice to see you're making progress! Modeling can be frustratingly slow, but once you can put down a painted army on the table, it is also really rewarding.

 

Good job on the rhino, your black seems to be even now, how did you fix it? And the rest of the work looks good, I'd suggest a wash or two (brown on the parchment and skulls, black on the metal) to add a bit more depth. It can make a big difference. And it can help significantly with your edges since the wash will stick in corners and give you a rather straight transition.

 

GW just produced a foundation white, ceramite white I think? To paint solid, smooth whites this thing is a blessing. I usually do: black undercoat, adeptus battlegrey (old, rather pale grey foundation paint) and then ceramite white, mixing in more and more skull white(= white scar) and water to make it smooth with still good covering.

 

And finally! You don't need to magnetize the shoulder pads, just put a little bit of blue tack under the shoulder pad and press it on the arm. It is strong enough to keep the shoulder pad there and makes it very easy to swap the arms around. This way, you can even assign shoulder pads to models, while still being able to use any arm you would like! (On a side note, I once played a game with an entirely blue-tacked rhino and it did just fine! Until it got wrecked... but that was easy to represent to!! Bluetack is awesome)

[tvih]

Nice to see you're making progress! Modeling can be frustratingly slow, but once you can put down a painted army on the table, it is also really rewarding.

For me at this rate it'll be maybe next year ;) As a recap, so far it's only two "basically" finished ranged terminators and one that still needs a bit of work (less than an hour's worth I think), and now this WIP Rhino. Which leaves me with a Dread, a marshal, 7 more terminators, 30 initiates and 5 neophytes to paint.

 

Good job on the rhino, your black seems to be even now, how did you fix it? And the rest of the work looks good, I'd suggest a wash or two (brown on the parchment and skulls, black on the metal) to add a bit more depth. It can make a big difference. And it can help significantly with your edges since the wash will stick in corners and give you a rather straight transition.

As per my earlier post I "fixed" it by simply spraying about 6 more layers. Nuts.

 

The smoke exhausts have had a Nuln Oil wash on them already, but the stuff on the front plate hasn't. Just not sure what wash I'd use on the fender color transitions. And come to think of it, the same problem will arise when I start painting the marine shoulders!

 

GW just produced a foundation white, ceramite white I think? To paint solid, smooth whites this thing is a blessing.

Yeah, I think I really need to pick that up or otherwise I'll go nuts with the whites.

 

And finally! You don't need to magnetize the shoulder pads, just put a little bit of blue tack under the shoulder pad and press it on the arm. It is strong enough to keep the shoulder pad there and makes it very easy to swap the arms around. This way, you can even assign shoulder pads to models, while still being able to use any arm you would like! (On a side note, I once played a game with an entirely blue-tacked rhino and it did just fine! Until it got wrecked... but that was easy to represent to!! Bluetack is awesome)

Ah, blu-tack... yes, that could indeed work! I haven't used blu-tack for a very long time, and even then it was just to attach posters on the walls as a kid so I have no clear recollection of how well it would stick to smooth plastic. But based on your recommandation I reckon I need to buy a pack!

[Arthanor]

For me at this rate it'll be maybe next year <_< As a recap, so far it's only two "basically" finished ranged terminators and one that still needs a bit of work (less than an hour's worth I think), and now this WIP Rhino. Which leaves me with a Dread, a marshal, 7 more terminators, 30 initiates and 5 neophytes to paint.

Don't worry, I've been working on my Templars for years too.. but I'm really slow and the hobby is at the bottom of my priority list right now. That being said, challenges are awesome for getting stuff done (I would never have painted my EC if it weren't for the crusade expansion, and hopefully I get a marshal out of the ETL!). Once you figure out how you want to paint your models, it usually goes much faster too. It's just that stage that takes a while. I remember my first few initiates were painted one by one and taking weeks, then I wrote down a scheme and finished all my initiates in a month or so.

As per my earlier post I "fixed" it by simply spraying about 6 more layers. Nuts.

 

The smoke exhausts have had a Nuln Oil wash on them already, but the stuff on the front plate hasn't. Just not sure what wash I'd use on the fender color transitions. And come to think of it, the same problem will arise when I start painting the marine shoulders!

 

Ah, yes. I can see the exhausts have more shade to them. You can use that on the other metal pieces too. I recommend a brown wash for the parchment (and that works for bones too) although since I just dilute my paint to make my own washes, I can't give you a name...

 

For the transition, I would apply a black wash around (not on top of) the details on the front plate. That way, the wash goes into the corner between the plate and the details and fills it up. Since it is a wash, you can adjust the amount so it is roughly the same everywhere around the detail too, so you get a uniform transition. I do the same on shoulder pads and the like, applying a white wash on the corners of the white areas so the transition is uniform. You can use a light grey instead of white to add some shading in the recesses at the same time.

 

Ah, blu-tack... yes, that could indeed work! I haven't used blu-tack for a very long time, and even then it was just to attach posters on the walls as a kid so I have no clear recollection of how well it would stick to smooth plastic. But based on your recommandation I reckon I need to buy a pack!

I'm the same, modeling for 40k made me buy blue-tack for the first time. I didn't even know where to go at first since my parents had provided me with it when I was a kid. This stuff is marvelous to work on poses for your models and to hold light bits or bits with large areas like shoulder pads.

[tvih]

Finally the side and rear doors are reasonably smooth after another two layers of spray. Now to try and paint the crosses and such without making another mess of it. It'd really help if the detail brushes didn't turn into shotguns five seconds after first using them. Seriously I don't know what is up with them, even with proper use and constant cleaning.

 

Also really cursing myself for not sticking with all-black fenders, just like in the codex and just like I did with the shooty termies' heads. Maybe it would've been slightly more boring, but also with my painting ability also better looking in the end. Unfortunately what's done is done, can't really undo it given trying to paint black on top of the white now would probably be a mess since it's uneven as it is compared to how smooth the base black is. And "selectively stripping" just the white areas can't really be done as far as I know.

 

Sorry if my posts seem quite negative, it's just that I get all frustrated with this stuff. Miniatures and modeling are something I really like and always wanted to do, but was never any good at - just like things like playing a musical instrument or drawing. Doesn't help that I'm so critical of the end results.

[tvih]

Man, that blu-tack was such a fantastic tip that I owe you one, Arthanor! :)

 

Here's a CC termie that has magnets holding the arms to the torso, but torso & legs are attached with blu-tack, and of course the shoulder pads and head as well - heck, even the shield is attached to the arm with blu-tack (so, no glue at all!):

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/cc-termie-wip1.jpg

 

What's great about this is that it also solves a few of my other problems other than the shoulder pads. For example, I won't need to magnetize the torso & leg attachments on the terminators and assault squad. Or any other model. I was thinking of doing it for the ability to repose, and of course for the assault squad I was thinking of either the torso swap or detachable jump pack to make them regular crusader initiates if need be... but torso swaps and such will be easier and more sturdy with blu-tack instead. The 2x1mm magnets are nowhere near as secure (in fact I think I'll use the 3x1mm magnets for termie arms once they arrive for extra "security"). The leg & torso attachment on this termie is very secure. I don't think it'll ever detach by accident, something that easily happens with magnets. As an example I can detach an arm easily by grabbing and pulling by the blu-tack-attached shoulder pad, the pad won't come off while the magnet give away.

 

As great as it is, blu-tack probably won't entirely replace magnets for me though. For the arm attachments for example I think I'll still be using magnets, because they need to be embedded to stay entirely invisible. Even a thin layer of blu-tack can be visible from some angle, and of course a bright blue will be an eyesore on a dark model. I did test attaching an arm on another termie with blu-tack, and it does work... but while the magnet arms just snap into place, you have to carefully place and press the arm to attach it. Not to mention you'll never know whether the blu-tack will be on the arm or the torso when you pull them apart, which makes it slightly more work to move the parts between models. Not that one expects to be swappin' around all the time, but even so. In any case for someone who doesn't want to do the drill and magnet thing, blu-tack is a viable alternative even for arms! And after a bit of googling there seems to even exist blu-tack in black color in some stores to get rid of the potential eye-sore. Even I will still have to consider the blu-tack vs magnet as it is, because blu-tack is certainly the less destructive and (initially) easier-to-apply method.

Edited August 15, 2012 by tvih

[Arthanor]

haha I'm glad you like it!

 

As you said, blue tack isn't the "be all, end all" for swapping but it does help a lot. For arms, what I did is add two pins to prevent the rotation (the weapon often rotates the whole arm down because it is heavier). This has the added benefit of making it easy to swap weapons, you just have to push the pins in the holes with a small amount of blue tack holding it together (the blue tack may be in the hole, and completely invisible too! since your AoBR terminators where a bit lose, you can try it with them). This is cheaper than magnets, but much more of a pain than either magnets or blue tack alone since you have to figure out the pin/hole alignment to get the pose you want.

[tvih]

Right, I think this Rhino is finally, after 20+ hours of work, pretty much done (except for the interior), bar a few possible very minor touch-ups here or there as well as the texts at some point and gluing rather than blu-tacking the decorations.

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/rhino-complete-front1.jpg

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/rhino-complete-front2.jpg

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/rhino-complete-rearhatch1.jpg

 

The third pic is the sword thingie I attached to the rear hatch as decoration - and incidentally it's perhaps the thing I'm the happiest about in the whole model as far as succeeding in what I wanted. This piece's paintjob came together very nicely compared to the problems I had elsewhere.

 

I should probably get a can of purity seal spray to finish it off with at some point, but I've heard that it can make subtle weathering and such vanish? 'Cause my highlighting and weathering on this one is quite subtle indeed (the way I see it, an instrument of the Emperor shouldn't be poorly kept!).

[Arthanor]

Good looking rhino! It's nice to see things have come together in the end :cuss

 

Purity seal is good to use, although some people don't varnish plastic miniatures. I do but before you do, be careful. With your luck so far, you better spray something before the rhino to make sure the varnish does not ruin your model. When relative humidity and/or temperature is/are high, the varnish can form a whitish coat on the mini, which looks sort of like snow. If you google it, you'll find plenty of "varnish ruined my model, what do I do now?" posts and the best answer is: test your varnish before varnishing.

 

It is a bit unpredictable and I think 'ard coat is much less likely to do this that purity seal since I've varnished my metal eldars with it in pretty much any conditions without issues ('ard coat being stronger it's good for metal and I like shiny eldars). Back to the point, it can happen anytime but is more likely when it's humid (and maybe hot) so summer is risky (some people even wait until fall with all their summer minis).

 

If you varnish on newspaper, you can spray some on a picture and let it dry, then you see if the picture changed. Or if you have an inconsequential piece, like a grenade, you can test on that, nobody will notice. Just to make sure you don't end up ruining a model you've already spent so much time on!

[tvih]

Yup, the fear of ruining things is constantly there for me. Like while I'm still not happy with the white fender sections, I can't help but think that further tweaking will only make things irreversably worse :cuss That's also why I decided not to try to make a big cross on the top. At least as it is I'm relatively happy with the end result despite all the problems - certainly leaps and bounds better than any other vehicle I've painted in the past. And certainly it's good enough that I won't repaint it in the future even if I learn to paint better, I'd rather just paint a new Rhino at that point instead. I hate wasted work, after all.

 

Next I think I'll see if I can work with the Dreadnought as is or if I'll have to strip the paint. Additionally there's the question of the Emperor's Champion, of which I'm still not sure if I'm going for a custom model using a regular marine as a basis, or if I'm just going to buy the GW EC model. Problem is that if I used a regular marine, a squad would then be one short!

 

On a side note I really dislike painting those wing thingies. The one on the side door is really the crappiest part of the Rhino probably. Should've done it in Leadbelcher instead of trying to make it white, I think. The white (including Ceramic White that I just bought today) just isn't good for... well, anything, let alone such a detailed surface. But even with other paints, like on the termie, the crest was a bit of a pain for some reason.

Edited August 16, 2012 by tvih

[tvih]

To commemorate the success of the Chapter in ETL, let me introduce you to Battle-Brother Kalev:

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/aobr-dread-front1.jpg

 

He wishes to send the following message to all the heretics, xenos and witches (and especially heretical xeno witches) out there: "I've come to destroy you!"

 

-

 

As a side note, do you folks generally drill holes to their weapon barrels and such? I think I gotta do that, all those solid weapon barrels (and exhaust pipe thingies, too) tend to look silly. Well, on the Rhino and Dread at least, don't think I have anything small enough for Terminator weapons, let alone normal marine weapons.

 

I also gotta find a pen or something that's suitable for writing on a model, because there's just no way I can do it properly with a brush.

 

Oh and one last thing, he currently doesn't have any Templar crosses on him. The ones I put on the Rhino fenders from the Chapter Upgrade are too large to fit where I'd like to put them, so I was wondering if there's any significance to the cross with what looks sort of like a lantern hanging from it (the one next to the Banner on the vehicle upgrade sprue), or if it can be simply used as a decoration?

[Arthanor]

Nice work on the dreadnought. I was just about to recommend drilling out the multi-melta so to your question, yes! Drilling them looks much better than solid barrels. I would recommend some metallics on the end of the multi-melta too, but that's me.

 

Your dread would benefit from a bit of added "Templar bling" so go ahead with the lantern. As far as I know it does not represent anything but a lantern and the desire of BTs to bring the light of the emperor and pierce the shadows. Crusader/purity seals can also be good and some kind of freehand, whenever you feel daring enough :huh:

 

That bein said, you can aim to get all you army painted to this level and then revisit it for freehand. Having painted all the minis will make you more adept with the brush and you will also have a fully painted army quicker.

[tvih]

How typical of me that - in addition to posting boring stuff no one cares about - I manage to lose my magnets on the same day that they arrive, so when I came back from getting a suitable drill they are nowhere to be found :) Come out come out wherever you are...

 

Oh well, instead I'll just post a non-assembled pair of pics, then.

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/cc-termie-wip2.jpg

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/cc-termie2-wip1.jpg

 

Aside from covering up a few stray patches of paint with black, I think I'll leave these as-is paint-wise for the time being. I really like how they turned out (except for the lower guy's chest which came up a bit lacking, mostly thanks to the white...) and so I think I'll leave the highlighting until later because try as I might, I still don't like the results I get in that department and I think I'll practise that on the AoBR models first. In the meanwhile I'll focus on getting more models painted in general. Still gonna be slow, as painting these guys already took like 10 hours. I reckon I'd paint three times as fast if not for brush issues though.

 

On the positive side I gotta say I really love painting with Gehenna Gold and Leadbelcher. Such good coverage (even though Gehenna is supposedly a "layer" paint!), and they look great pretty much automatically! For example the wings on the upper termie's chest look far superior thanks to simply painting it with Leadbelcher straight on, instead of the silly Codex Gray + light Leadbelcher drybrushing I did for the shooty termies, or the White Scar + Leadbelcher Drybrush on the Rhino side door.

 

Oh, and an exception to the leaving as-is. I still don't know what the heck I'm gonna do with the heads. Painting them white at this point seems like folly unless I do it with an airbrush or spray. They're gonna look terrible if I do it with a paint brush because I still can't do a smooth and even white coat to save my life with either White Scar or Ceramite White. I do have an airbrush that I've never used, but it does seem easier to just go with a black head. Oh well. I might just leave 'em unpainted until I've assembled the other three CC termies as well.

[tvih]

One last question and comments spam post to bother you with, then I'll spare y'all from these status updates probably 'til my army's table-ready :)

 

The question: worthy of being an Emperor's Champion?

 

http://www.tvih.net/stuff/wh40k/ec1-wip1.jpg

 

It's probably the best I can come up with with my parts. It's not that I dislike the "dedicated" GW EC model, and it's not even super-expensive - but it's still something almost everyone has and thus less than unique! Anyway, I'd love for him to have Mark IV head and legs, but no can do since I don't have the bits. Similarly he won't be the only model with that tabard torso, but obviously outside of making a custom tabard that's always going to be the case. Also, once he's properly assembled I'll try to make him a cape out of green stuff. I know his sword isn't quite as big as the GW model, but well... don't have anything better suited.

 

Also, since he too will have magnetized arms etc, I could even use him as a command squad sergeant or even marshal/castellan if I so chose (like if I end up getting the finecast EC at some point after all or something).

 

Finally, I must say I'm disappointed with the assault squad torso bits in the Chapter Upgrade. They really don't properly with any torso backside. The ones meant for the regular assault squad torsos don't match at all with the "belt" thingies size-wise, and of course normal torso backs don't have 'em at all. And in both cases the fit in general is very poor. So I'm not really sure what to do with them, it's starting to seem like my assault dudes will end up with either default torsos or tabards - can you imagine coming down from a jump with a tabard though? It'd be all in your face :)

 

EDIT: Ugh, can't believe it that I didn't realize earlier that the EC actually has a bolt pistol. So I guess I'll swap one to his right arm.

Edited August 22, 2012 by tvih