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Thank you and yes it is with Kromlech legs and eldar blades haha

 

 

I'm afraid I did notice the giant 3-fingered hands; Wraithguard?

 

Haha....yea you win some you lose some. I have two other with marine hands. This is more of a place holder

OK so here's my first guy.

 

From the Betrayal at Calth Boxed set.  I'm pretty happy with the colour scheme but obviously there is still some basing and detailing work to be done.

 

 

AL Contemptor

 

Cheers

 

Vogon

P3 Greatcoat grey is one of my favorite paint colors I've seen since I started painting minis, and I feel it's far more fitting to have a matte gray base...with tiny barely noticeable blue and green scales, like some sort of nano-tech self adapting paint scheme to represent them blending into whatever given unit they are emulating.

 

Obviously I'd assume there would be some sort of friend or foe system embedded within the autosenses, which I'd guess is where my proposed XX men would have somehow hacked or spoofed, or the battlespace is in such disarray that visual identifiers are more reliable (like what happened in the mark of calth).

 

For just Joe Bob Imperial Citizen or soldier...they'd be space marines the Emperors Angels of Death so they wouldn't question too much.

Hi all,

 

My old chaos warriors army from a decade ago used a metallic blue scheme, very similar to the PH Alpha legion ones I'm seeing here - back then I used boltgun metal, mithril, and blue ink to get the shade right. How would I go about getting a colour the same as on the AL I see here, but using GW paints? I see a lot of Vallejo, but dont have access to them at the moment!

 

Cheers,

 

Xen

If you want Metallic FW Look, Try the Glazes: Guilliman Blue, Waywatcher Green. Iirc, theres no purple glaze but you could try the Druchii Violet Shade over Guilliman Blue?

 

A while back I tried doing the AL Scheme over metallic using only shades and it didn't turn out so great.

If you want Metallic FW Look, Try the Glazes: Guilliman Blue, Waywatcher Green. Iirc, theres no purple glaze but you could try the Druchii Violet Shade over Guilliman Blue?

 

A while back I tried doing the AL Scheme over metallic using only shades and it didn't turn out so great.

 

Thanks - I tried the Guilliman glaze, but it was so thin, I didn't feel like it would effectively build up even after several coats without killing the detail where it pools in the corners. I might have to give it a try. I managed to get a darker colour with Drakenhof, which is nice - the first coat looked terrible, and I almost gave up, but by coat 3 it was looking dark and metallic. Darker than what I was aiming for, but acceptable.

Just to shout out, I thought this would be the best place to mention it,

 

I inquired into the newer forgeworld paint scheme for the Alpha Legion Bundle for BoC as shown here:

 

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Alpha-Legion-Task-Force

 

Alpha Legion

Undercoat with Chaos Black spray.

Armour:

Base – Stegadon Scale Green

Layer – Sotek Green

Wash – Drakenhof Nightshade (mixed 1/1 with Lahmian Medium)

Highlight – Temple Guard Blue

Wash – Druchii Violet (mixed 1/1 with Lahmian Medium)

Metal:

Base – Leadbelcher

Wash – Nuln Oil

Layer – Ironbreaker

Highlight – Runefang Steel

Hydra:

Base – Rakarth Flesh

Wash – Agrax Earthshade

Layer – Rakarth Flesh

Highlight – Palid Whych Flesh

Black Trim:

Base – Abaddon Black

Highlight – Dawnstone

Highlight – Administratum Grey

 

It might be a bit late, but if you wanted another scheme to try out, there you go!

Just to shout out, I thought this would be the best place to mention it,

 

I inquired into the newer forgeworld paint scheme for the Alpha Legion Bundle for BoC as shown here:

 

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Alpha-Legion-Task-Force

 

Alpha Legion

 

Undercoat with Chaos Black spray.

 

Armour:

 

Base – Stegadon Scale Green

 

Layer – Sotek Green

 

Wash – Drakenhof Nightshade (mixed 1/1 with Lahmian Medium)

 

Highlight – Temple Guard Blue

 

Wash – Druchii Violet (mixed 1/1 with Lahmian Medium)

 

Metal:

 

Base – Leadbelcher

 

Wash – Nuln Oil

 

Layer – Ironbreaker

 

Highlight – Runefang Steel

 

Hydra:

 

Base – Rakarth Flesh

 

Wash – Agrax Earthshade

 

Layer – Rakarth Flesh

 

Highlight – Palid Whych Flesh

 

Black Trim:

 

Base – Abaddon Black

 

Highlight – Dawnstone

 

Highlight – Administratum Grey

 

It might be a bit late, but if you wanted another scheme to try out, there you go!

Very Cool, thanks, i was actually curious how they did that

  • 1 month later...

You all have been quite an inspiration. New year = new alpha legion army. So, I've been trying out a few schemes now. Tamiya clear blue and green was very time consuming considering set up, mixing prep, and dry time between coats. After a number of experiments I'm not sure the extra effort gives me a better result than just simply using Tamiya metallic blue by itself (I like a more blue than green look). For a dirtier look, Sotek green, stegadon scale green and temple guard blue seem to be a good direction to go. In the end there's a balance I haven't figured out. On one hand I like the metallic look on troops (examples in this thread really look great), but I'm worried about how it'll apply to tanks... and I love tanks. At the same, I really want to try and improve my skills and tabletop top quality drybrushing might not be the answer. A lot of this test work below was done with my new badger krome airbrush. 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/CaptainKarlean/1455a288-452e-43ed-8bba-7af711bbf76a_zpsig9kv5zd.jpg

You all have been quite an inspiration. New year = new alpha legion army. So, I've been trying out a few schemes now. Tamiya clear blue and green was very time consuming considering set up, mixing prep, and dry time between coats. After a number of experiments I'm not sure the extra effort gives me a better result than just simply using Tamiya metallic blue by itself (I like a more blue than green look). For a dirtier look, Sotek green, stegadon scale green and temple guard blue seem to be a good direction to go. In the end there's a balance I haven't figured out. On one hand I like the metallic look on troops (examples in this thread really look great), but I'm worried about how it'll apply to tanks... and I love tanks. At the same, I really want to try and improve my skills and tabletop top quality drybrushing might not be the answer. A lot of this test work below was done with my new badger krome airbrush. 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/CaptainKarlean/1455a288-452e-43ed-8bba-7af711bbf76a_zpsig9kv5zd.jpg

How did you do the (nearly) finished Terminator (3rd model from the left)? Add a few lightning bolts and it would be a perfect Terminator from the VIII Legion Alpha Legion operative posing as a Night Lord.

 

I have to ask something else here, so that I don't derail the Red Sorcerers of Prospero Thread further:

 

 

Great work, I assume the metallic red is the Tamiya red colour over runefang?

Is it really that easy? Would it also work with clear blue over Vallejo metallics?

 

I believe thats how the FW Alpha Legion were done

 

Is the painting done with an airbrush? Would it also work with normal brushes?

Edited by Quixus

 

Is the painting done with an airbrush? Would it also work with normal brushes?

 

 

 

I think the second post in this thread has the full FW scheme, they did it with an airbrush, but I assume you could do it with a normal brush, it will just take longer. I attempted it with drakenhof, and got a different result, which you can see in my AL thread, here.

 

For the FW scheme, I'd go with runefang base, with think coats of guilliman glaze thickened with lahmian medium.

Alpha Legion's paint scheme has always intrigued me and been my white whale.  I haven't been able to get it anywhere near where I felt like I could paint an army with it.  I tried this scheme out quickly to decide if I liked it and oddly it matches the artwork pretty well.

 

Apologies for bad lighting and camera.  Cloudy here in Vegas!

 

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Slightly%20Darker.jpg

 

 

 

Slightly brighter color:

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Slightly%20Lighter.jpg

Very cool stuff! i painted one of my dreads with that pure blue. It took me a LONG time to paint multiple things with some consistency due to the chaotic nature of most of their schemes haha


You all have been quite an inspiration. New year = new alpha legion army. So, I've been trying out a few schemes now. Tamiya clear blue and green was very time consuming considering set up, mixing prep, and dry time between coats. After a number of experiments I'm not sure the extra effort gives me a better result than just simply using Tamiya metallic blue by itself (I like a more blue than green look). For a dirtier look, Sotek green, stegadon scale green and temple guard blue seem to be a good direction to go. In the end there's a balance I haven't figured out. On one hand I like the metallic look on troops (examples in this thread really look great), but I'm worried about how it'll apply to tanks... and I love tanks. At the same, I really want to try and improve my skills and tabletop top quality drybrushing might not be the answer. A lot of this test work below was done with my new badger krome airbrush. 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/CaptainKarlean/1455a288-452e-43ed-8bba-7af711bbf76a_zpsig9kv5zd.jpg

I personally love the first marine and the termie second to the end, that one is near perfect. The blue termie in the middle with the painted metal feels a bit too UM for me, but great job all around

 

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/CaptainKarlean/1455a288-452e-43ed-8bba-7af711bbf76a_zpsig9kv5zd.jpg

 

What method did you use for the 4th from the left? The pointing chainfist termie? That's a great colour.

 

4th from the left: I wanted to try a more green look so I used the recipe of tamiya clear blue, green and thinner in thin layers over vallejo steel. Betrayer41 was right, Vallejo thinner wasn't the best choice, I think I need to match thinners. Tamiya seems to take some getting used to, and it worked better in my Iwata hp-cs. I think the others are right that it could be brushed on. (Of course the real test will be if I actually have the patience. Using thin layers it's hard to see subtle changes.) The 5th from the left was similar, but I went with a lot thinner coats, and less coats. 

 

The third from the left is just tamiya metallic blue with some Guilliman Blue.

 

The one all the way to the right was just drybrushed with some nuln oil. 

I gave it another shot tonight and this is how it finished up.

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Alpha1_1.jpg

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Alpha3_1.jpg

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Alpha2_1.jpg

 

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww199/Olaf_Tharand/Alpha4.jpg

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