Tabgoi's WIP Thread

[Tabgoi]

Okay, since I kind of got into the habit of posting pics when I finish a mini for the ETL I figured I may keep it up a bit. As a warning, under normal cercumstances I have complete ADD when it comes to mini projects. During the ETL I was working on my vows, magnatizing a Storm Raven (still working on that one), fixing up devastators for their magnets, prepping 10 sternguard, 30 terminators, 10 Vanguard vets, stripping down my orginal BA Honor guard, and working on a Land Raider Crusader. Actually the Land Raider may have just gotten in the last few pieces I ordered for it so there may be a pic relatively shortly. Corbulo will be using it a lot so I put on the forgeworld doors already and I have some stuff from Scribor coming to further deck it out.

But my main project right now is another ten Sternguard, all with magnetized combi meltas. Bits came in, but I ran out of magnets. The main thing I wanted to work on with these guys is reposing the legs. It seems straight forward, looks good, and I am probably going to make a mess of it. To start with I decided to work on some bases for them that would justify reposing, which is what is displayed below. Standard GW 25mm bases with some plaster bricks I got from Pegasus. I picked them up for some terrain I am doing and on a lark decided to try them for basing material. They cut easy with a hobby knife, but as they are some form of plaster they do not glue down so well. I fixed it by using a thick layer of almost straight PVA glue applied like mortar on the top of the base and set them in like bricks. Once that dried I carefully coated them with watered down PVA glue, about four parts water to one part glue. I wanted to make sure it would not fill in the gaps, and this seems to have made them very secure, and when I am done and they are primed, painted, and ard coated I do not expect any issues. These bricks are going to add a little bit of hieght to the minis, but since it is only a few mm I do not expect a very big impact on LoS on the battlefield. I like the control you get, and at around eight bucks a bag, each bag having enough bricks for at least 40 bases it may end up a good way to add detail cheap.

[The Milkman Of Baal]

Just a quick one. If you coated them with pva what's the bond going to be like with the minis? Look forward to see what you do with then.

[ASSASSINAWOKEN]

I have used these bricks with my Devastator squad. I added after painting the models though. They do add nice details and to add a bit more depth I used weather powders as well. Funny I add weathering powder to my bases, but not the models, lol.

 

Here are some pictures if you would like a look at what I did. I am interested in what other ways you may try. I am not all for having the brings under the models, but there are many ways modelers can surprise eachother. I have some washes to try with the next squad I use the bricks on to perhaps show a bit of age, modl, growth on them.

 

http://ststh.blogspot.com/2013/04/further-progress-update-on-devastator.html

 

I think you have magnets down to a science, but I am interested in how you magnetize your flyer. I cram some 20+ magnets into my Baal Predator and got every option it has useable without altering any of the plastic.

[Tabgoi]

Just a quick one. If you coated them with pva what's the bond going to be like with the minis? Look forward to see what you do with then.

I just did that to solidify the bricks. Since it soaked in pretty well I could probably get away with just super gluing them on, but I will be running a pin thru the legs and down thru the bricks into the plastic GW base and then bending the pin in an L shape to run along parallel with the plastic. A little bit of green stuff around it and the mini should not have any problem holding itself on top under gaming conditions.

@Assassinawoken

I am interested in how I am going to pull it off as well. There has been a lot of me staring at the thing with not a lot of luck on a break through on how to make the magnets work on it. The big problem is the doorways. There is not enough plastic there to fit any kind of magnet to hold on the doors or hurricane bolters. I could expand them with plasti card but then you would barely be able to see the interior. Which means why waste the time on the interior? Just fill the whole gap in with plasticard and no problems making it work, but then it would be a pain to get the doors off if humidity cases the ard coat to form a new seal. I was thinking if I am going to close it anyways just permanently attaching the doors and then I can just modify the hurricane bolters to clip on over the standard doors. I am just not sure which way to go yet. The turret was really easy to finish, but I chopped the top down, removed most of the pod for the servitor, and stuck magnets where the bar normally goes thru. It needs some green stuff work, but should come out pretty decent. And I cannot wait to get my new Baal off the sprues and start playing with magnets on it, swapping out every option should take no time at all on that tank, and I want to put the hunter killer missle's mounting point on the turret. Actually for that tank many of the potions are going to have spots on the turret for them.

And some pics, here is my DC Razor backs I finished during ETL, but I did not vow it before painting it due to the large vow. I would have posted it sooner, but I had left it at my brother's place last time we gamed. Forge world DC doors and the assault cannons are from the master of the raven wing. I added some magnets to the inside so it will hold on the turret and let me swap weapons packages. I have all the extras painted up as well (smoke launchers, search light, etc) and they are magnetized to attach to the hull, but I forgot to pick those up. Overall there are six different mounting points for options on the hull just in case I want to move the existing options around, or in case GW adds some more. The top plate attaching the turret to the hull has four magnets in it so even inverted it will stay in place and I have a plain door to make it usable as a rhino as well, I would just have to paint the door first, though it does have its magnets.

A little close up on the turret.

I could not get a good interior shot, but the benches are dark red on the bottom and bone on top, hard to get enough light in there.

A decent shot of the command console in there.

Some of the areas that have a lot of glare from the camera is probably just the glare amplifying the edge highlighting. Each rivet was picked out with two layers of metal and a wash. I went with more brass than gold to let the black pop a bit more. And the white spot on the front blood drop is the camera having a rough time filtering glare from the butt load of red layers I put on that thing so in natural light it looks like it is shining.

Land Raider crusader is mid basing, but here are a few shots with its extras added on

Front, plus a view of the six hull attachment points for magnets.

And I had put this door in the wrong spot originally and broke off some of the hinges when I removed it. So I hit it with a little bit of green stuff to make some new hinges, which hopefully will not look too bad when done.

I decided to close the center troop bay for two reasons. One, my first landraider was done open with functional doors and all the goodies, and when someone dropped it all kinds of things broke off and I have not had the where with all to fix it yet and repaint it. So this will be simpler and hopefully easier to fix if dropped, though sponsons will pivot as normal, and are actually already painted along with the tracks. Oh, reason two is I wanted the interior door panels for some terrain work I am going to be doing this winter when it is too cold to prime outdoors.

And I got two of the legs positioned, though there is a balance issue with the one on the left. The pin will fix that, and I need to do some green stuff work with the gaps.

[Tabgoi]

Got tied up, but I have been playing around with a few things lately. I decided to assemble Raphen's DC as listed, because why not. With how many I have, a few that are set in stone will not hurt. I just played around with the bases a bit, and I had to do a bit of shifting on the legs. Well, one of them required a bit more green stuff work than I usually am comfortable with. I.E. it went beyond filling in cracks.

A quick view of the bases

Blue tack to hold hammer in place, this guy is my favorite. Hammer needs to be painted separately though or I would never get to the chest piece.

different look at the base

This one just required some removal of the nid thing to make a foot fit in there. Not sure sticking your foot down a feeder organizer is a good idea, but these guys are not exactly in their right minds.

Different look to show footing.

I also kit bashed five libbys and three tech marines, but the pics came out like crap. I need to take some new ones, that and figure out how to paint nids. There may be a reason I have a couple hundred of them sitting around unpainted. That will have to wait until I can prime again though, too cold right now.