BA Today

[Vermintide]

Watch out for the bikes - it's best to prime/basecoat the main body before attaching the side plates/legs/exhausts sections.

 

Damnit. You could have told us this 24 hours sooner :D

[Warhead01]

Very well done white robes!

 

 

Thank you.

 

 

One think I had though about doing and didn't was a silver white halo but went with gold. 

This set of colors to me seems like it looks nice but is hard to look at. 

Should I change the color on the halo? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[momerathe]

Am I hallucinating or did GW/Forgeworld used to sell BA repulsor doors? I could have sworn I’d seen some but now I can’t find a trace of them.

[Warhead01]

Today in BA.
Work from yesterday.

Built primered and base coated red 3 more eradicators and 10 assault Intercessors. I had meant to leave that 10 black and turn them into death company but I have 10 more unbuilt and Will do that with those later on. 
I've just got the Captain and nu-Biker left to build. 

 

[Spagunk]

Am I hallucinating or did GW/Forgeworld used to sell BA repulsor doors? I could have sworn I’d seen some but now I can’t find a trace of them.

You're not wrong. But they removed them when they reopened the FW store. Not sure why but it did happen.

 

Here's a link to a good number of kits that were removed when FW reopened: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/364666-several-item-apear-no-longer-available-on-fw/?p=5551411

[Charlo]

I'm not sure if he's quite going to be for the BA yet, but my Easy To Build Redemptor arrived today and I originally hated the kit, but after having a Dread I can build in 10mins with no glue in my hands... 

 

[momerathe]

 

Am I hallucinating or did GW/Forgeworld used to sell BA repulsor doors? I could have sworn I’d seen some but now I can’t find a trace of them.

You're not wrong. But they removed them when they reopened the FW store. Not sure why but it did happen.

 

Here's a link to a good number of kits that were removed when FW reopened: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/364666-several-item-apear-no-longer-available-on-fw/?p=5551411

 

 

At least I'm not losing my mind! Fingers crossed that some of these kits come back once some semblance of normality returns.

[Warhead01]

Today in BA.

The Captain is coming along.

[Jolemai]

New Unit of the Week entry:

• Termite Assault Drill

[Vermintide]

Repurposed the Justice Chap as a very spiky Sanguinary Priest.

 

 

I rather like the pose.

[Warhead01]

Today in BA.

I think it's "done", there's so much to look at on this mini.

[Indefragable]

Repurposed the Justice Chap as a very spiky Sanguinary Priest.

 

 

I rather like the pose.

That came out quite well.

[Thoridon]

Honestly the new push fit stuff is very well designed. Easy for those who find gluing a million tiny bits tedious and no lack of quality for those of us who enjoy the building side.

 

The monopose nature of them does make it trickier to make the same model look different but as Vermintide showed they can still be the basis of an effective kitbash.

 

Given the lower prices for push fit kits they make a good base for building an army. Obviously we still like the full kits as well for all the bits and customisation, but I’m very happy to mix both styles.

[The Unseen]

 

Just a simple Techmarine for my new 9th list, built as a break from transferring all my citadel paints into dropper bottles. His jump pack is still in the mail, the mk3 double jet ones from the angels tears kit looked suitably heavy and complicated for him. Sliced my thumb cutting the original pewter bolt pistol off to make way for the combi-melta, hence the bandaid. And the girlfriend is responsible for keeping the first aid kit restocked, hence the hello kitty pink.

[Dont-Be-Haten]

It's been a while.

 

I finished apothecary school. And I was just informed I am eligible to take my boards.

 

Soon, brothers and sisters i will truly be an Apothecary of these hallowed halls!

[Warhead01]

Today in BA.

I've spent from 10 to 12 hours on this one. Yikes, it looks way better in person from about 18 to 20 inches away. Not thrilled with the chalky look the white has for some reason. maybe it's the 1080P. who knows.
Which is an unforgiving mistress.


At least I only have to paint one of them.

[Majkhel]

This is a lovely model and it's great you tackled it. Smooth white is not that easy to achieve sometimes. Shake your paint well and thin it a bit down with water for added smoothness. Even if it increases the number of coats needed. This often goes for many bright colours (like yellow which we brush-users so often love to have and hate to paint). 
You may try to conceal the chalkiness of the surface with battle damage applied with the sponge method. It will help blend it and give the overall weathered look.

For inspiration, I would heartily recommend ST.Lazarus thread on heavily weathered Fists. An excellent example of deliberately raw paint job creating an advantage.
Keep painting! :)

[FormelyKnownAsSmashyPants]

Probably late now, but I'm lead to believe that you can use an opaque white ink in lieu of white paint and it will go on a great deal smoother than white paint and you won't get that chalky finish you sometimes do with paint.

[Dont-Be-Haten]

More than likely paint was thinned, but wasn't dry enough before you added the next layer.

 

The consistency of paint could also be off.

 

If I'm painting white these days, I prime corax, then do an all over layer of grey seer. It's the best.

[Warhead01]

Thank you for the advice it is helpful, although too late now. 

More than likely paint was thinned, but wasn't dry enough before you added the next layer.

The consistency of paint could also be off.

If I'm painting white these days, I prime corax, then do an all over layer of grey seer. It's the best.

I think your probably right I just opened the paints a few days ago, they had been in storage for nearly 10 years but seemed to be in as new condition to my surprise.
I had thought maybe there was a problem with the under coat or the first color mix of two different brands of paint. But it could be I needed to leave well enough alone longer for the paint to dry properly. I also used a transparent white airbrush paint later after the above post to try to smooth things out but it didn't seem to really help, I thinned my paint with both thinner medium and water. Probably should use filtered water in the future for challenging colors like yellow and white. 
I use craft paint, vallejo, pr, some GW and ceatex paints. Depending on what part of the model I am working on. Models are primed by hand with a brush using folk Art flat black which is a mat black. My go to for everything now days. 
It could have also been something on the model, dust maybe or something on my pallet or in the brush. I goofed up somewhere probably. 
at least I only need the one of them.  

[appiah4]

Today in BA.

I've spent from 10 to 12 hours on this one. Yikes, it looks way better in person from about 18 to 20 inches away. Not thrilled with the chalky look the white has for some reason. maybe it's the 1080P. who knows.

Which is an unforgiving mistress.

At least I only have to paint one of them.

Almost certainly a case of too few coats, too thick. I made the same error when I painted my Apothecary (but in my defense I was using craft paints at the time..) Regardless, painting white without an airbrush is a fairly difficult affair.

Lately, I've started doing something different instead, painting a basecoat of Payne's Grey. I don't have any finished models to show, but it was less of a torture.

[Warhead01]

Today in BA.

I've spent from 10 to 12 hours on this one. Yikes, it looks way better in person from about 18 to 20 inches away. Not thrilled with the chalky look the white has for some reason. maybe it's the 1080P. who knows.

Which is an unforgiving mistress.

At least I only have to paint one of them.

Almost certainly a case of too few coats, too thick. I made the same error when I painted my Apothecary (but in my defense I was using craft paints at the time..) Regardless, painting white without an airbrush is a fairly difficult affair.

Lately, I've started doing something different instead, painting a basecoat of Payne's Grey. I don't have any finished models to show, but it was less of a torture.

I do have a good airbrush but am hand painting this whole project. I think I should have coated all the cloth grey and done the white as you say with more thin coats and just suffered through waiting longer. It's funny that other colors are so much more forgiving, as far as I have ever seen anyway.

The temptation to strip him ans do it again is there but not the will power. Maybe early next year after I have more complete models I'd do it, or if I buy another. I recall getting this one second hand more than a year ago. Not that that matters beyond having the missing bits that it didn't come with that are clearly missing.

Do you think more thin coats would save it?

[Arkhanist]

 

 

Do you think more thin coats would save it? 

 

No. Thin coats helps stop it going on chalky in the first place, but once it has, more layers will exacerbate the problem, not improve it alas, as paint naturally accumulates more on existing imperfections.

 

Pure white is a notoriously hard colour anyway (the titanium oxide pigment is a huge molecule), and ceramite white is also notorious for being especially chalky, yet poor coverage. . I literally thew away all the 'free' pots i got of ceramite with conquest and the base paint set, it's just a terrible paint. I haven't tried the corax white base paint, its recent replacement, but it couldn't possibly be worse.

 

My usual brush white is army painter matt white, which is fine.

 

When hand painting white or near-whites though, flow aid is an essential for me. It breaks the paint down so it literally flows better (i.e. less chalky) and also slows down the drying time slightly, giving an altogether smoother finish. Flow aid is also mostly water, though you may need a bit of additional water as you shouldn't use loads of  flow aid or paint won't dry properly. Flow aid lets you do a less translucent layer without sacrificing smoothness, and makes painting whites so much easier.

 

You can dilute winsor and newton or liquitex artist flow aid concentrate with 90-95% water into a dropper bottle (which will last many years), or vallejo do a pre-mixed one that works just fine with brushes as well as for airbrushes (a little flow aid is a lifesaver when airbrushing acrylics to reduce tip dry)

 

The best best option is multiple layers of white ink (such as daler-rowney FW ink, or scalecolor inktense white) through an airbrush, but that's not always doable! If you're patient, you can also use it by brush.

 

I wouldn't strip the model. Maybe when you've run out of other things to paint. As long as it looks ok on the table, stripping stuff cos it's not perfect means you can easily spend months and months painting with very little to show for it. I speak from bitter experience as I'm awful at following my own advice on this.

Edited August 12, 2020 by Arkhanist

[Father Mapple]

Trust me, that apothecary looks great on the tabletop and on your display shelf. When we blow up miniatures in pictures 3 to 5 times their actual size, it's too easy to be critical of it. I think it looks good.

 

My original white death company looked similar, and I help getting compliments on them because even when people pick them up to look, they're not holding it as close to their face as this picture would be representative of.

[Warhead01]

All of you have been very helpful. I thank. 
Just felt like a total noob. haha. Happens I guess.

Today in BA.
I painted a single Intercessor. Just have to paint the eyes.
I have 4 more for the squad base coated and waiting. 

Right not the holster and pouches are black but may paint them light brown. haven't decided yet. 
Kinda like the black kit. 
I'm pleased that these troop dudes are easier to pain than the heroes so far progress should happen soon. Huzzah! 
Pictures when the whole squad is ready.