Look at what landed on Depth's doorstep

[depthcharge12]

Fellow 1st legion enthusiast Ser rudijetz sent me these, which arrived today:

 

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/treacyjohn2/5987455ed1cea818883e40e04470f71c_zpse6d2103e.jpg

 

What do you guys think about these cool transfers? :D

 

 

Lol I think my next thread will be titled, "Depth gets his butt in gear with modeling"

[deathspectersgt7]

Now Get Cracking.

[GhostMalone]

Bet you 5 bucks you get distracted :D

[depthcharge12]

Bet you 5 bucks you get distracted :D

Ooh 5 bucks!!!

 

 

...wait what were we talking about? :P

 

 

Astute viewers (or those who put up with my grainy picture) will notice that these are custom made as the First has no transfers yet and the Dark Angels ones from forgeworld are not the same with the pattern of the wings. Also, my company's numbers are displayed - the XVth Cataphracts.

 

After I burn through my 3 projects and study for finals (and work and a girlfriend) then this will be top on my list to do.

 

What is the process for using Micro Sol, Set, and 'ard coat?

 

Are these available in the US for sale?

[Millicant]

You just looking for general decal application advice? Here goes:

 

1. Gloss coat over area to have decal

2. Apply decal

3. Apply solvaset over decal immediately after application (or microsol, but personally I hate the stuff. Solvaset is where it's at)

4. Wait for it to dry

5. Apply gloss coat over decal

6. Profit

[Marshal Rohr]

I'm always wary of the gloss technique. It makes your army shiny to hide the transfer layer, but it doesn't quite fit in with an army that is supposed to be matte, like mine.

[Brother Tyler]

Nice old-school 1st Legion decals. Did you make those yourself, or did you download them? We already have a set of Legion-era 1st Legion decals (here), but yours would be a nice addition (if they're yours and if you are willing, of course).

[Millicant]

I'm always wary of the gloss technique. It makes your army shiny to hide the transfer layer, but it doesn't quite fit in with an army that is supposed to be matte, like mine.

The gloss is necessary for the decal area to hide the edges. You can always matte-coat over the top of my described process. I do.

[Marshal Rohr]

It's just a personal preference of mine. Because I do sponge weathering and oil washes instead of color shading or washes, the effect looks awkward, like when you get mud on a muscle car. It's just a personal preference tho. The matte coating is something I avoid after 'frosting' 50+ Templars and having to strip and start over.

[Millicant]

So you don't put a gloss coat down before oil washes?

 

Also, are you saying that you put NO clear coat on your models whatsoever? That's crazy.

[Marshal Rohr]

I tend to use a very small amount of metal bits which cuts down significantly on chipping. The light weight of the resin and the matte medium I mix with my paints has it's own sealing effect. I give the metal pieces a extra layer of pure medium if they protrude. It's far more controlled than a simple spray varnish.

 

I also free hand almost everything. If I use a transfer at all I shave off the excess that comes with it and use it as an outline to paint over. Things like the fists legion symbol are too complex for that, so I free hand it.

 

There is an example in the group log that I did on the test model and practice sergeant.

[deathspectersgt7]

Have used Microsol on 1200 decals with only 20 not coming out well.And yes you can get it in the US at many fine hobby shops nation wide.