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Imperial Fists 3rd and 4th Battle Company


nortran11

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I actually found a pretty easy way to do yellow, Dosjetka.

 

I spray a white primer, then I brush on a light coat of Warpaint "Daemonic Yellow"...that first layer kind of "tints" the primer...once it dries I brush a second thin coat of Daemonic Yellow. That second coat really brings the yellow out and makes it pop.

Another is to just slap on coats of Lamenters Yellow over White Primer. Pretty much the same method you described, but with a rather transparent paint.

 

image1 (4)

30kh5

 

 

As seen here. Second Image is me trying to get a Golden Yellow by drybrushing Gryphons Gold and layering Lamenters Yellow over it. Worked out quite well as a test.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ah, I gotcha. I've got a couple test subjects I can try that out on.

 

In the meantime, I've been working with photoshop to make custom decals. Here is the WIP of the 3rd Company standard.

 

Imperial Fist 3rd Battle Company Standard

 
It will be printed on clear paper, and the standard itself will be painted white so the IF logo and checkers come out correctly.
 
Thoughts? Suggestions? Improvements?
 
I've also made properly colored unit designators for my transports, various size Fists, the little right shoulder insignia for tactical, assault, dev squads in black and some other goodies. I tried making decals with the Testors kit on my ink jet printer.....SUCKS! So I purchased a 25 pack of 8.5x11 clear decal paper for laser printers from decalpaper.com. After I get the standard nailed down, I am going to print a test run.
The banner looks great. Have you thought of trying to get the 4th Co. banner from the codex? Scan it and get it to your transfer paper? I've thought about it, but haven't tried it. If you do, lets us know how it comes out.

Not a painting update, but a decal update!

 

I just got back from Kinkos with my new decal sheet in hand. I tried the Testors decal system and was very unsatisfied with the results. Making usable decals was a very lengthy process, once you print the decals you need to let the ink set for 24 hours, then spray with a clear coat to seal in the ink. Before you can apply them the clear coat has to set for 24 hours. Once applied the decals were very transparent.

 

So, I ordered laser printer decal paper from a website ironically called "decalpaper.com". I purchased a 20 pack for 19.99. While it was being shipped, I spent an afternoon creating the graphics I wanted for my company.

 

Decal sheet

 
This is a 8.5x11 sheet and as you can see, I could have crammed a lot more crap on there. I've got squad indicators for all 10 squads, various size IF insignia, properly colored company roundels for vehicles, etc. The squad indicators also have roman numerals on them to indicate what squad they are in. Factoring in the cost of the sheet and printing, this decal sheet cost me a grand total of $1.65! Take that Forge World!
 

Applied decal

 
This is a test decal applied to my companies Predator. As you can see, the decal is in perfect registry with no shadowing (that was a common problem with the ink jet) and the graphic is very opaque.
 
So far VERY satisfied with my results.

 

Not at all. I gave the clerk a sheet of paper and my thumb drive with the artwork. The only thing she said was "Oh, it looks like a job is just finishing on the color machine so it might take a minute".

 

As I was checking out so did ask that I limit it to one sheet at a time because really glossy paper like that can cause toner to build up in the machine, but then said one sheet here and there is no problem.

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