Father Mehman Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I'll put this to you as an idea. We used to wear black BDU pants with a camo BDU shirt. If you find the pale brown pants still lack contrast, you could always try that and adjust your armour colour accordingly. Just a thought ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulrik_Ironfist Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 When I play Airsoft, I wear a grey top with multicam pants, and multicam gear and it does just fine out in the woods, and fine in urban too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MithrilForge Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 all the idea's here are good but the transference from real life to table top never goes as well as we like...good camo will make your models look like hidden lumps on the table..even though up close they are cool...the table top view of a model needs a good sharp contrast to make it pop but still be viable as representing a camo type pattern... on 54mm it wouldn't be a problem but in our scale ... look fwd to seeing some comparison models though...i'd love to be wrong on this Mithril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morroccomole Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 I'm in agreement with Mithril. I want my army to look cool from where the opponent is standing, six feet away haha. I have loads of respect for you guys who do bangup camo jobs on guardsmen, but personally, I try to just batch-paint the footsloggers and detail the bigger models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vel'Cona Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 For my money, I think a solid camo scheme for tanks/fatigues in an IG army can be a really great look, but you're going to want some solid points of color for your force to really "pop." For me, it was to use an alternating camo scheme on my tanks and leave my infantry as similar solid colors. The end result is a force that has a lot of countershading and consistency but doesn't blend in on most tabletops. I'm no pro painter so for me it's all about getting a consistent scheme that I can maintain across 50+ models. I prefer darker colors with a single lighter contrasting or complimentary color, as darker colors (grey, blue, green) tend to work better with black undercoats and are more forgiving with washes. The secondary color will always have a bit more attention and highlighting to make it stand out more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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