How to paint 30k Space wolves

[Anamnesis]

So following the tut base, i've been working on the tut for the marine, it's quite hard to do since i'm 100% sure on the process http://heresy30k.invisionzone.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.png and the grey implie quite a bit of back and forth (the other colour should be easier to do)

 

Anyway, i'll try my best to show you how to do it (it's explain quite in detail and with much more talent in this

)

 

Part 1 - The grey armor

 

0. I start on a black basecoat out of lazyness mostly, and to gain time, i use the airbrush to pass the first basecoat with graphene grey from scalecolor.

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170206_212804_zpsyoyukigj.jpg

 

1. I blacken the area between armor panel and the "soft" cable part quickly so i can correct mistake after if i need to.

For the armor, i usually start by tracing a fat line of my highlight color (in this case neutral grey from vallejo, with a tiny bit of graphene grey) on the part where the light should reflect.

 

As i'm not doing NMM, the highlight don't go to white. Just think about your light, i'll add more neutral grey to a part which have a direct zenithal light, and less for a part reflecting the ground (if that make sense).

The highlight on the upper body are lighter than the bottom.

 

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170206_232143_zpsslcufuyh.jpg

2. I'll then proceed to blend the highlight with glaze on the jonction between colours following the video linked a the beginning.

After shading (step below) I'll blacken all the rivets and then paint them neutral grey, then add a point of white at the top. (there is a bit too much progress on the photo sorry for that.)

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/shading_zpszcitrupa.jpg

3. When i'm happy with my lights, i start doing the shading, i just add black to my base colour and with a glaze consistency start glazing in the direction of the strongest shadow (it's quite important to direct your brushstroke to finish on the strongest part).

I've highlighted the area in red (top and bottom), you don't need a big shade to start seeing the effect, usualy a light shadow make for a more interesting middle tone.

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/Shade2_zpskyhxnyjx.jpg

4. When the shadow and light are good, i'll do the edge highlight always thinking about the intensity of the light hitting them. Meaning edge in shadow won't go to almost pure white.

 

I usually start with neutral grey with a touch of base colour or pure neutral grey depending on the edge, For the most exposed edge i'll add a touch of white to make i lighter.

In this case, you can see that the edge of the kneepad is in the middle of a reflection so it goes into white in the center of the reflection.

Remember that the light will mostly it the upper edge of the different ridge.

 

You can also see that not all the blending are perfect, in fact very far from it. I'll correct some and other less important will be hided by scratches and weathering.

Part 2 - Black cables and parts

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170209_083411_zpsgfqpngsd.jpg

1. As unimpressiv as it is, just paint the part black http://heresy30k.invisionzone.com/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif (though if you're doing a big part in black, and would mix it with a bit of light colour so you can shade it with black)

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170209_230043_zpsuk1n3nne.jpg

2. Now to hightlight the black, i'll start with vallejo dark sea blue thinned down, always in a zenithal light way

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170209_231102_zpsn83yjqs8.jpg

3. Push the highlight mixing white in your dark sea blue, in a few step, every steps smaller than the last one and you should arrive too something like the pictures

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170209_235139_zpsk2unw5up.jpg

You can see the same principle painted on the left shoulderpad

Part 3 - Red

 

I'll show you how i paint my red on the legion symbole on the spaulder, and how to have a bright red.

 

The main problem with red is doesn't matter how many layer you do, the red pigment will always be a bit transparent and show the undercoat.

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170215_225403_zpsreiis26q.jpg

1. First in basecoat the area with a neutral grey (usually what's left on the palette this case in was neutral grey with a tiny bit of white)

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170215_231429_zpsqh4rjzrz.jpg

2. Then i highlight to pure white where i want a strong red and shade with a bit of black in the lower corner. I also redefine the border with pure black and mark the eye and the little point on the snout.

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170215_231907_zps5ptu4gnz.jpghttp://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170215_233008_zpsa5yn6rqi.jpg

3. That's where the fun begin, i glaze the whole area with scalecolor mayhem red, in a few layer, on the first pice you'll see the result after the first go, it's not clean but just let it dry then to a few more layer until your happy with the result (second pic).

[Anamnesis]

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_205510_zpsexazelrf.jpg

4. I then proceed to edge highlight what a need with the red mixed with white, we'll correct the strongness of the edge in next step.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_205654_zpswhhu9qxa.jpg

5. If like me your edge are to strong, just glaze your edge highlight with a bit a red to dampen the white, insisting on the side of your edge highlight.

It may seem long, but in reality, it's quite fast and give you a really nice red

Part 5 - Brass part

As for the rest, it's important to dilute your paint on metalic, since it's reflect the light a lot (specially those scalecolour metalic) if you have lump in your paint, it will show.

Also i've have to apologies for the pictures, it's really hard to photograph metalics.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_210702_zpsuhguwfua.jpg

1. On black base, i start painting all my brass part with ScaleColor (SC for the rest of the tut) Decayed metal.

2. And since i was a bit the eader, i've also done part 2. I highlight with SC Victorian brass on the most exposed part.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_210836_zps0mqej34r.jpg

3. Lighter highlight of SC Amber alchemy (very yellowy metalic); on the rivets on the knee it's represented with a light point a the top.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_211223_zps5afgbjrb.jpg

4. Last highlight on very small part with Amber alchemy mixed with SC white alchemy. I would also use this mix if i have edge to do.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_211657_zps5gbio9ve.jpg

5. Last, i shade with black mixed with a bit of decayed metal and just quickly glaze the bottom part.

Part 5 - Steel metalic

As always i start the metalic on a black base, again i apologies for the pictures, it's really hard to photograph metalics.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_214223_zpshrjbxwsn.jpg

1. I paint all my steel part with SC Black metal, leaving the crease in black just to make it faster (i don't have to go back to do black lining).

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_215203_zpsk8srtqvn.jpg

2. I start highlighting my steel with SC Heavy metal in layer almost like a glaze, usually metal reflect the light a little differently than other surface, try to keep it in mind when you do it.

I sometime push the highlight with a bit of speed metal added to the heavy metal.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_223625_zpsegpi9iqx.jpg

3. i shade with black metal mixed with black in glaze on the upper part.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_224847_zps10brsz9i.jpg

4. Edge highlight is done using SC speed metal, then speed metal with White alchemy on the upper upper edge to give it the final shine.

Part 6 - Metalic Rust and small weathering

I've been a bit faster than expected, so i've done a bonus picture of the weathering on the bolter, i've also added a red line following part 3.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170220_234236_zpseiwwgdos.jpg
I painted the black part on the bolter, and then proceed to add a bit of weathering with my lightest highlight colour and just make some random fine stroke to mark some scratches.

On the red part line, i've made a few dot with my black color to look like scratch on the paint.

For the rust, i use Vallejo Armour brown diluted and make a few glaze on the darkest part of the metalic and between crease until i'm happy with the result.

Part 7 - Weathering brass, scratches and mud

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_203851_zpsoko6i9ur.jpg

1. So to make some scratches i use GW Rhinox Hide and do some randoms spots and line

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_205352_zpszrlpr17y.jpg

2. I underline all the rhinox hide marks with white with a touch of grey, just the bottom part to make them look like 3D. I also make some randome line to mark some lighter scrachs and impacts marks.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_211650_zpsdymqg5jf.jpg

3. I glaze the bottom of the boots with rhinox hide heavily diluted, being careful to "pull" the paint to the bottom of the boots, I also glaze the shadows and where armore plate meet to mark some kind of dust. I second lighter glaze with Scale Walnut is made lightly at the lowest part of the boots and really light.

It's important to do this after you've made your scratches.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_213607_zpspgehoh5c.jpg

4. I start the verdigris on the brass part with two mix, one is nihilake oxyde diluted, the second is nihilake oxyde with a bit of vallejo emerald green to have a stronger green. And i start marking joints with the diluted mix and where i want my effect stronger (usually in the middle on the "line") i apply a bit of the second mix.

In really bright spot, i add a bit of white to nihilake to lighten it.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_214243_zps0vpw514r.jpg

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_214256_zpsnki1qjfm.jpg

5. I use my rust mix and verdrigris mix to make some streaks where you imagine there some, usually under rivets and such. start with a diluted mix and just draw some light line, armour brown for rust and nihilake with emerald green for verdigris.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_214846_zpsh8kvigm9.jpg

6. To finish the effect and make it more interesting, lighten your streaks with a lighter colour, in this case Scale kalamari orange for rust and nihilake oxyde with white for verdigris.

And if you followed all the steps, you should arrive to something like that

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/Anamnesis_corp/20170228_215038_zpsudbm1rgs.jpg

A tut on the face should come next time i'll do a face !

Hope you'll find this usefull

Cheers!

Anamnesis

[Runefyre]

Bookmarking this!

 

 

Great tutorial brother, I hope to employ at least some of your techniques when I fully start my 30k Wolves project.