Silent hunters project

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

Hello I'm currently in the process of planning out how i will be making my miniatures for my homebrew chapter known as the silent hunters but require assistance with one thing i seek to add water to their bases with the miniatures standing in it or even submerged in it but from what I've heard it appears that realistic water would backfire with both super glue needs the following requirements

1.it needs to not react badly to super glue or miliput

2.it needs to not react badly to vallejo matte varnish and citidel paints

3.it needs to be cheap

This diorama has inspired me

I thank your time and hope you have a nice day

[Bung]

For standard infantry bases you could use vallejo still water. For deeper water you would need to go the 2 part clear resin way.

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

Have any resins you would recommend?

[Semper Fortis]

I've used Castin'Craft and Alumilite two part epoxies over superglue for large terrain features and never had a problem. Both are good. Having said that, I can't imagine needing that stuff just for bases unless you're basing a titan. Heck, not sure you could mix that small a batch in the right proportions. It has nasty fumes, a working time in minutes, and is a pain to use. If you do go this route, make sure you get fresh stock. It has a really short shelf life.

 

I concur with Bung. Vallejo Still Water is easy to use, not horribly toxic, stays good in the bottle, and is all I can imagine needing on a base. AK Interactive makes a similar product. I've never had trouble with either over superglue. You create your depth by shading your paint darker in the deep area before you pour.

 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Edited because auto-correct

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

The cheapest resin I've found so far is magic water as far as I'm aware is magic water but I'll first give still water a shot but is it a bad idea to dye it with guiliman blue?

[Semper Fortis]

I've never tinted resin with paint. You could try tinting a small amount and pour it on some scrap. I suspect it would cause the resin to be cloudy. You could google for tinting instructions for that product. Keep in mind that stirring in coloring will create bubbles and resin is so thick that the bubbles don't disperse.

 

Usually I do all the coloring and shading on the surface under where you'll pour the resin.

[Subtle Discord]

If it's a 2-part polyurethane resin be careful about adding a water-based paint to attempt to tint it. If it's a very small amount you'll be fine (I've done it to add a tiny bit of white translucence to clear resin) but polyurethane reacts in strange ways to water, bubbling and frothing as it cures, so you can't add very much. As suggested, do some research to be sure. Using a tinting product specifically intended for polyurethane is the best/safest way to go if you want a strong tinting effect, and you can get those that are meant to create a tint colour without causing the clear resin to go cloudy.

 

I highly recommend you also test your process before you try and commit it to an actual model. Creating simulated water of a substantial depth for models to stand in isn't that simple of a technique to get really good results, especially on a small scale. It can be very striking when done right, but it's tricky to pull off well.

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

Understood I'll do some research into it I'll go with still water first

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

I have a few questions though I'm planning on painting the chapter with camo as most if not the whole army will be using a converted scout armor i plan on painting aquatic tiger stripe camo using three blues (necron abyss, caldor sky, kantor blue) the darkest blue being the main colour on the cloth along with chaos black while a dark red (khorne red mixed with chaos black) is the main colour on the chest and gauntlets with all of the blues and black painted on the armor all of the highlights will be done via drybrushing the metal parts will be painted black with silver highlights done by dry brushing thier faces will be painted with grey skin blond hair and blue eyes which will glow and bear an appearence akin to cat eyes any lenses will be painted blue with a glow effect but theres several problems I've come across 1st i have no idea on how to make the black more noticeable with painting it on any dark blue 2nd I'm uncertain on what paint to use as a dry brush to dry brush the dark red 3rd i haven't found a turtorial on making glowing blue lenses as all i get led to are ones for green or red glowing lenses

As for a product to simulate water I've found no australian sites with a product like citadel water effects

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

I have a few questions about this product if anyone can answer

I'll start with the first

Is it true that the product reacts negativly to varnish and super glue?

[Semper Fortis]

I have a few questions about this product if anyone can answer

I'll start with the first

Is it true that the product reacts negativly to varnish and super glue?

I assume you're asking about Vallejo Still Water. No, it doesn't react to varnish. As a matter of fact, Vallejo recommends using it on rough surfaces before applying the product. Per Vallejo's product information:

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/m/en_US/model-paints/faqs/3

 

9.12 .... Still Water should be used only on a non-porous surface, or on a surface sealed with varnish.

From my personal experience, it also won't react to super glue, Milliput, Citadel or any other acrylic paint used for miniatures, small dried sticks and stones from your yard, or anything else I can imagine you might put on a model base. However, it doesn't like moisture so make sure everything you pour it on is really dry or the bottom of the layer will turn milky. It doesn't like to be stirred or shaken, or it will pull in tiny air bubbles you won't get out. It doesn't like to be poured quickly or from far above (see bubbles previous). It doesn't like to be poured in a thick layer. 2.5mm is as thick as I would go.

 

And because you asked earlier-

9.7. How do I color Still Water Ref. 26.230?

We recommend you use Model Wash or Model Air. Use sparingly to maintain the transparency of Still Water, and ad color gently in order to avoid bubbles caused by rapid stirring. For more color and a more realistic shade, modelers paint the bottom of the area to be covered before adding Still Water, this gives more depth and a more realistic tint to the surface. Please also see 9.5 and 9.6.

The Model Wash and Model Air to which they refer are their specific products, (Note, these are not their Game Air or Game Color washes... different chemistry.) I wouldn't use anyone else's products. Just make sure you gently fold it in so as not to create bubbles. Hard to do so, again, I would recommend painting the bottom. See item 9.5 in the link.

 

As far as purchase in Australia, I just googled it and came up with quite a number of Aussie retail sellers with websites.

 

I'll leave it to someone else to answer your color questions.

 

Edited to correct typos

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

 

I have a few questions about this product if anyone can answer

I'll start with the first

Is it true that the product reacts negativly to varnish and super glue?

I assume you're asking about Vallejo Still Water. No, it doesn't react to varnish. As a matter of fact, Vallejo recommends using it on rough surfaces before applying the product. Per Vallejo's product information:http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/m/en_US/model-paints/faqs/3

9.12 .... Still Water should be used only on a non-porous surface, or on a surface sealed with varnish.

From my personal experience, it also won't react to super glue, Milliput, Citadel or any other acrylic paint used for miniatures, small dried sticks and stones from your yard, or anything else I can imagine you might put on a model base. However, it doesn't like moisture so make sure everything you pour it on is really dry or the bottom of the layer will turn milky. It doesn't like to be stirred or shaken, or it will pull in tiny air bubbles you won't get out. It doesn't like to be poured quickly or from far above (see bubbles previous). It doesn't like to be poured in a thick layer. 2.5mm is as thick as I would go.

And because you asked earlier-

9.7. How do I color Still Water Ref. 26.230?

We recommend you use Model Wash or Model Air. Use sparingly to maintain the transparency of Still Water, and ad color gently in order to avoid bubbles caused by rapid stirring. For more color and a more realistic shade, modelers paint the bottom of the area to be covered before adding Still Water, this gives more depth and a more realistic tint to the surface. Please also see 9.5 and 9.6.

The Model Wash and Model Air to which they refer are their specific products, (Note, these are not their Game Air or Game Color washes... different chemistry.) I wouldn't use anyone else's products. Just make sure you gently fold it in so as not to create bubbles. Hard to do so, again, I would recommend painting the bottom. See item 9.5 in the link.

As far as purchase in Australia, I just googled it and came up with quite a number of Aussie retail sellers with websites.

I'll leave it to someone else to answer your color questions.

Edited to correct typos

Thanks mate but i have a question how similar is vallejos product to ak interactive because i found a site where aks product is cheaper

[Semper Fortis]

I have found the two products behave exactly the same. But Google is your friend if you want to look up AK's product descriptions and FAQS.

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

Thanks i just thought I'd check with you first

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

Update

Ignore what i said previously I'll still give it a shot

[Naoki the curseblood 99]

I have a question though how clear is still water?

[Semper Fortis]

Glass clear.