The Hildr-Thrall (WIP: Squad 1)

[Guest]

So I got a few days to assemble and prime my Scions. They were rather enjoyable to build and finally learning how to use my airbrush made priming 10 of them only take 8-10 mins.

My first goal is 500 pts/50 PL, which you guys and gals helped me develop earlier. Thank you to those that helped out, still working out the rest of the details (warlord stuff I believe is left).

500 pts/50 PL list:

HQ:

Tempestor Prime (warlord & deep striking)

Tempestor Prime (along side vehicle)

Troop:

Squad 1: Deep Strike

Sergeant: Chainsword & Plasma Pistol

Special Weapon: 4x Plasma Gun

5x Tempestus Scions

Squad 2: Deep Strike

Sergeant: Chainsword & Plasma Pistol

Special Weapon: 2x Plasma Gun (4x for 50 PL games)

2x Tempestus Scions (5x for 50 PL games)

Squad 3: Along Side Transport

Sergeant: Chainsword & Plasma Pistol

Special Weapon: 2x Hot-Shot Volley Gun

2x Tempestus Scions

Transport:

Taurox Prime:Gatling Gun, 2x Hot-Shot Volley Gun

Update to the squad. The original squad had to be scrapped and I started anew. This photo is just 1 of 5 others. The scheme is nearly complete just need highlights. Unfortunately I have doubts now as my wife said it didn't look very good.

Edited February 18, 2018 by Jarl Caldersson

[WarriorFish]

Nice colours and choice of scheme, looking forward to seeing more though I'd much prefer the images to be in the topic ;)

[Guest]

Nice colours and choice of scheme, looking forward to seeing more though I'd much prefer the images to be in the topic ;)

I was going to post more pictures but bit of an issue doing so on mobile. I will have an update tonight when I get some time and maybe get at least another base color down.

[Spyboy]

Two things:

A) squad three you have special weapons listed as hot-shot lasguns. Did you mean hot-shot volley gun?

B) I believe troops deployed in a transport do not count towards drops for the purposes of deep strike, so you would have to deploy them outside the tranport.

[Guest]

Two things:

A) squad three you have special weapons listed as hot-shot lasguns. Did you mean hot-shot volley gun?

B) I believe troops deployed in a transport do not count towards drops for the purposes of deep strike, so you would have to deploy them outside the tranport.

A. Yes.

B. Transport troops will begin outside transport on turn 1 then hop in.

[Spyboy]

A thing to be careful of is if your opponents gets first turn, make sure they don't shoot you off the board before your reserves come in.

 

Looks like a fun list though.

Edited February 5, 2018 by Spyboy

[Guest]

Caught the cold so painting slowed down. I think I went about this the wrong way. On WH TV he does the brass/metal first and then the rest if the armor. I am finding this rather annoying as I can't paint everything without hitting the brass and then fixing it up. A great example is the lip of the helmet should be grey but when I attempt to paint there I hit the brass and have to fix that. I think next time I will do the base coat with a airbrush and then paint the copper by hand. It also allows me to hit part like under the chin and around the neck with grey.

 

I am also trying to figure how to paint the boots a brown leather but it seems like I can only find saddlehide and no dark cowhide leather look for boots. Again WH TV says Dryad bark with druuchi violet, but unsure how purple would look on brown.

 

Hopefully after this cold I can spring back and get stuff done.

[Tallarn Commander]

Yes, most of us would agree the armor filigree on the scions is notoriously fitzly to paint. There really isn't a right way or a wrong way to paint it up because most painters will have to go back and correct their mistakes.

 

Having said that, one way to paint a basecoat on miniatures is to paint from the "bottom up."  By that I mean start with the parts that are closest to the center of the model (this is often the skin) and then work your way up. In theory, this improves your brush accuracy when applying a basecoat. In the case of a scion chestplate, you woould paint the armor first and then you would go back and paint the filigree.

 

Another way, as you noted, is to spray or airbrush a basecoat on the model and then add the filigree using brushwork.

 

With regard to leather, there are numerous paint recipes for painting leather.  Determining what colors to use on a model is one of my favorite parts if the hobby so here are my thoughts:

 

I might be wrong but I think the paint recipe you referenced is:

-Basecoat: Dryad Bark

-Wash: Druchii Violet

-Touch up: Dryad Bark

-Highlight: Gorthor Brown (or another brown)

 

The Druchii Violet is a shade/wash that flows almost like water so when it dries it should be subtle, dark hue that enriches the brown. It shouldn't make the brown look purple. If it does then there might be something wrong with your Druchii Violet wash.

 

For what it's wirth, my preferred leather recipe is

-Basecoat: Rhinox Hide

-Wash: Agrax Earthshade

-Touch up: Rhinox Hide

-1st Highlight: XV88

-2nd Highlight (if the model has sufficient detail to warrant it): a blend of Ushabti Bone abs XV88

 

Note that  I sometimes use Balor Brown as the highlight, depending on what other browns the model has.

 

But this is probably a warmer leather than what you are looking for.nu

 

 

I hope this helps!

[Guest]

I appreciate the feedback. I decided to attempt to do a few models with the airbrush as it would be quick and see how that goes. I got done with cleaning the models up and priming before exhaustion/medicine hit and I went to bed before I messed up a model.

 

Your scheme seems like it is more like how I was planning on going. Leather is a bit new as I never had thought about it with marines.

[Guest]

New update. The original squad was almost all scrapped due to a bloody nose incident. Finally felt better and nearly recovered from what ended up as a sinus infection. So I painted up 5 more models. 1/6 of what I need but it's a start. Unfortunately my time is consumed by studying for a promotion still. After March my time frees up a lot.

 

Still looking for input on the scheme.

Edited February 18, 2018 by Jarl Caldersson

[Major_Gilbear]

It's looking pretty good - well done! :)

 

Still looking for input on the scheme.

 

It's the basic Studio Scheme as far as I can tell...? What sort of input are you after exactly?

[Guest]

It's looking pretty good - well done! :)

 

 

Still looking for input on the scheme.

 

 

It's the basic Studio Scheme as far as I can tell...? What sort of input are you after exactly?

Hmm maybe my camera isn't showing the right color. I was trying to go with the HH wolf with the armor. It's Mechanicus Standard Grey with Dawnstone. Now I am wondering if I am using the standard scheme. Have to find a video soon to see. If so I am sorely going to be disappointed as I was trying to make a SW Lost Company thrall army.

[Major_Gilbear]

The Studio scheme is Thunderhawk Blue > Nuln Oil > Fenrisian Grey.

As your photo looks a little blue, that's why I thought it was the official scheme.

The reason that the Studio scheme works is that the armour has some blue, and the fatigues have some yellow, and these are complementary colours. There is also a good amount of tonal contrast between the light fatigues and the darker armour.

If you greyscale both your photo and one of the official scheme from the GW website, you'll see that in yours everything has a similar level of grey which indicates low tonal contrast. However, the Studio scheme has better distinction between the lighter fatigues and the darker armour, and therefore has better tonal contrast.

To give your own scheme a more eye-catching effect, you need to improve the colour balance between the colours on the model, and also exaggerate the tonal contrast between the different areas a bit more. Whilst this may not be "realistic" (and is in fact pretty much the opposite of how Camo actually works), for small models on the tabletop these are important things to consider if you want them to look good and stand out.

If you highlight the fatigues up a bit more, and you both darken and add a little colour to the shading of the grey armour, you should be able to improve the appeal of your model. If you want to avoid blue tones in your grey, you could consider adding a little red-brown instead.

Finally, the third main "area" of the model is the weapon. This can also be an opportunity to add a colour that compliments and contrasts another on the figure, and can also be used to leave an existing area in a neutral tone. So you could darken the grey armour a bit, lighten the fatigues a touch, and then add a black weapon with some blue-tinted highlights to give you a subtle colour contrast as well as good tonal variation between the other areas of the model.

Below is an example with your model on the left, and the Studio scheme on the right. The first pair of pics is original, the second has been over-saturated to enhance the colours and show what colour tones may be in them, and the third is the original image grey-scaled to show tonal contrasts between the different areas of the model.

Hopefully I've explained the ideas behind a colour scheme well enough, and maybe given you a few ideas on how to tweak yours to make it more appealing.

[Guest]

I was going to respond earlier until my little one came out of bed and proceeded to use my arm as a pillow. The blue light I believe comes from my phone trying to compensate for the "warm-yellow" LED bulbs that cover my house. I really need to find a painting light for my desk to have a more true color and ease of painting.

 

I did look up the complimentary color of dawnstone and it ended up being a different variant of grey, like skavenblight dinge. A kinda brownish tinted grey. I suspected this might have been too much grey and underwhelming.

 

 

I am suspecting since I use airbrush that maybe mix some Mechanicus Grey with Dawnstone to darken it up (maybe 1:2?) and instead of base coat and then layer, to simply base with my mixture. This would darken the armor pieces.

 

As for cloth instead of zandri dust, to use Celestra Grey and highlight with ceramite white. That way it keeps with a grey theme but lightens it up for contrast.

 

The gun was going to be Abaddon black highlighted with dark reaper. Simple and low maintenance. The only other color was the left pauldron being all red and the right having squad marking in red.

 

Your advice was insanely useful. Painting humans is much harder than Marines. SM is simple, especially my single color wolves. Hopefully I learned a lesson today

 

 

Edit: I would almost pay someone to move paint from GW bottles to dropper bottles. Please GW go to dropper bottles!

Edited February 19, 2018 by Jarl Caldersson

[duz_]

Ottlite are reasonably priced and offer full specturm light.

https://products.ottlite.com/c-168-crafting-lamps.aspx

 

Yes I do wish the GW air was in dripper bottles too. Part reason I'm phasing over to vallejo air.