Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Well, I guess Monday is almost as good as the weekend.  Forgive the glossy look, again I'm waiting for the new Gryphonicus decals to come out before I hit them with the dull cote. Without further adieu, I give you Lupis Belli.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warhound2Front.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warhound2Left.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warhound2Right.jpg

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Lord-Uglor/Warhound2Rear.jpg

 

With Lupis Belli, I tried to give it a running forward posture, as opposed to the normal stride.  I think from the front it works best, but I'm not sure I can accomplish the look I really want without cutting up the legs.  Let me know what you think!

Alrighty then!  I have not finished any new titans as of yet, but I have made progress.  Warhound #3 has been built, based and primed black.  This is not the best part though.

 

My first 2 Warhounds, Canis Belli and Lupis Belli, both have fixed armaments.  This was because I had not found a way I liked to magnetize the arms.  This has changed.  I found a file on Thingiverse that meets with my satisfaction.  It is a surrogate arm, printed in two pieces, designed for a 1/8" cylinder magnet to fit within.

 

126f66a4-2798-4920-92d2-a1de59844b06-ori

 

I just print off the parts, and then superglue them into the arm sockets.

 

1a72255c-4eb3-4a63-8aff-fc7c2c54a13f-ori

 

Into the weapon socket.

 

a70b23ac-6d14-4464-93f2-de2d8c947aa3-ori

 

 

And as simple as that, I now have easily swappable weapons for my next two (or however many I end up with) Warhounds.

 

I have oriented the poles so I can use the Vulcan Mega Bolters on the shoulders of my Warlords until such time that either FW or Thingiverse provide me with a better alternative.

 

Let me know what you think of this.

Interesting alternative there... They seem somewhat longer than the originals in the box... and the connection point might require a bit smoothing, so the connection will not be so visible?

 

But it certainly solves the magnetising issue for the Warhounds - not an easy problem to solve admittedly. :tu:

@ Captain Semper:  Thanks!  I think they look long due to the fact that the Warhound isn't built.  It is barely noticeable on my mostly painted Warhound#3.  I'll post pics once finished.

 

@ Chaeron: Thanks!

Update time!

 

Warhound #3, Venator Ex Malo, is done!  This one has fully magnetized weapon options.  There was concern with how long they were in previous posts, and while longer than the standard attachment arm, I don't think its that bad.  Enough rambling, on with the pics!

340be04c-d769-4974-aa0c-5bd8cbdcc2ba-ori

 

e98cb152-1912-4e2d-93d4-f183c61336c9-ori

 

479bc735-d42c-48e1-9bb3-c86c4498401a-ori

 

A few to show some of the other weapons.

 

797c49be-5d22-4915-b9e8-9c96f0cb3799-ori

 

7821b033-daa2-456b-a3c7-fe741f772be3-ori

 

a62a5d19-1aa3-4981-889c-22d67c296c65-ori

 

The 4th Warhound has bee started, but I really want to take my time in the posing of that one.  I will have to cut the legs apart to get the pose I want, and that will take time.  As well, I'm working on my third Reaver, one that will have a convertible fist/chain fist as standard.  Also, and this one will take a lot longer, I'm starting the design process for my true beetleback-pattern Warlord, including retro fist and circular Apoc launchers, redone leg plates and of course, the all important carapace.

 

Let me know what you guys think!

washes & glazes.

 

the now discontinued FW clear paints were ideal for this.

 

I think one of the Battle Bunnies made a tutorial how to do it.

 

edit: cant find it, maybe it was someone from 30k forum...

 

only found this pic

 

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4fxFI6tZKDQ/V34c6mNFQzI/AAAAAAAABaU/dxJtoew41sIhAymcDEb11Yxh3mEyzvLsgCLcB/s640/20160707_105158.jpg

Edited by Parweke

 

Try a search on YouTube, I think Duncan or Peachy did a tuto on how to paint such a thing

I rather not. :smile.:

 

 

Why not? 

 

In the meantime, I found the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIKEfVoqC5U It comes under "muzzle burn"

 

To Lord Uglor, it is indeed extremely well done. Once again.

 

 

Try a search on YouTube, I think Duncan or Peachy did a tuto on how to paint such a thing

 

I rather not. :)

 

Why not? 

 

In the meantime, I found the link 

It comes under "muzzle burn"

 

To Lord Uglor, it is indeed extremely well done. Once again.

how to put it in a nice way.... I learn nothing from those videos. they dont teach "right methods" in those videos.

 

like not to paint straight from the pot, dont use tab water to thin your paints, the list goes on.

 

I get it that they are meant for beginners but still....

I sometimes watch them to see how new models look.

 

atleast they are doing those videos thats a good thing.

maybe one day FW guys will do videos where thay show us airbrush tricks and weathering with pigments etc. but most likely not as they dont use GW paints on their models.

 

and no, im not a great painter I hope one day I will be when I grow up :)

I like that they’re a whole lot less pretentious than other YouTube painters plus they don’t make every video with “hey guys here’s the link to my Patreon page and now I’m going to just take out my $300 airbrush to just spray this in 8 seconds and then use my perfect brush technique to fill in the details now make sure to hit like, subscribe, comment, PayPal...” with generic metal music playing the whole time.

So do I, just not the same riff for 20 minutes because they don’t want a copyright takedown. Bolt Thrower \m/

 

Now the more I look at the mottled gray armor Uglor did the more I think I should break up my planned white panels with a simple pattern. Maybe I should do Ulthuan gray then stiple on some of the garbage Ceramite white I keep ending up with to make a random pattern. It’ll look aged or dirty without being too dramatic.

Thanks for all the replies!  I use a method very similar to the one in Duncan's video above.  The colours I use, and the order from the tip, are:

 

Drakenhof Nightshade

Druchii Violet

Carroburg Crimson

Fuegan Orange

Casandora Yellow

 

I used to use the old, and I mean old (first generation) GW inks for this but I'd have to thin them down a little.  With the new Shades, straight out of the pot.  Its a little time consuming, waiting for each tiny band to dry before the next one is applied, but I usually do several items that need the heat staining at a go, so I just make an assembly line out of it.  In addition, there is ALWAYS something else on my desk to paint or build while I wait for things to dry.

 

Hope this helps with heat staining.

 

Now, with the recent Community announcements about new Warlord and Reaver kits to be released, I have amended some of my projects.  The small conversion parts for my true Beetleback Warlord and reposing of Warhound legs has moved to the fore, while my next Reaver is being pushed back a bit.  I feel as though I'll get the new Warlord with all its official weapon options and lovely new heads.  The body of that one forming the basis of my Beetleback.

I had my reservations about the length of the arm but it seems to be working very well! And the burned metal effect: very successful! :tu: this is a great project indeed!

 

Now on to the beetleback (whatever that is! :lol:)

@ Fajita Fan- I'm not sure as of yet.  My hope is that I'll be able to design sometrhing in either a 3D program or the old fashioned way, make a buck and use my vac-former.  No matter how I do it, it'll be very time consuming.

 

@ Captain Semper- Thanks!  As for the Beetleback…

dd0ade07-b235-4f0d-b614-ab0233f7c230-ori

 

In my opinion, the true Mars variant.  I plan on hitting the broad strokes, removing the reactor/void shield units on the shoulders, making a larger, rounded carapace, changing the shin leg plates, and of course, that huge power fist.  I've finished re-designing the feet, a first version, anyway.  I'm just waiting on the 3D printer to finish and I'll get some pics out.  Super basic design right now, but the print will allow me to check tolerances, proportions and all that.  With the new heads being released later this month, I will now have the perfect head without having to scratch build it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.