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Thanks guys, I'll know next week if I can go to the next round.

 

If you're looking for trucks for your loading bay: https://kore.ecwid.com/Epically-scaled-6-8mm-Vehicles-c33153403

Cool! Some interesting stuff there.

Thanks! Fingers crossed. Worst case scenario, I'll become a servitor :biggrin.:

Very little progress today, more planning and trying, here is the second attempt at a roof for one of the spires buildings, my first attempt was a bit too big. I used a toothpick to add the angel at the top.

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The angel at the spire is nice, there's always more room for gothic decor in these buildings. Like the one on the old BFG battleship, which was like a few hundred meters tall :D

 

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Edited by Sherrypie

I wish I could go back in time and order a dozen plastic Chaos and Imperial cruisers for that game, I'd go nuts with 3d printing conversions and hopefully finding people to play.  I have a little Dark Angels fleet but I never thought to mount that icon on my battle barge!

I wish I could go back in time and order a dozen plastic Chaos and Imperial cruisers for that game, I'd go nuts with 3d printing conversions and hopefully finding people to play. I have a little Dark Angels fleet but I never thought to mount that icon on my battle barge!

Check out Mkhand industries and Italianmoose on thingiverse... You can have a fleet right now!

Thanks a lot!

Cereal cardboard, very useful and super cheap :biggrin.:

Patience and precision are a must, thankfully it seems I am both patient and precise (and a bit crazy probably).

Today I added a few more bits and bobs to my work-in-progress stuff and I put some down on the table to get an idea. The total area (first picture) is roughly 90x90cm. Reaver and Acastus for scale comparison.

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It would be better that the midsection that becomes pointed towards the top would be straight instead, it just looks weird and toyish in my personal oppinion. The rest of you terrain looks great, I specially like the spire tops and the platform wit its cute microsteps.

Thanks. Yes, I see clearly now. I agree it looks weird. I have also been toying with a straight version, which I like better, I still need to fine tune it as the actual footprint on the roof of the other component is 25x25mm and 30x30mm would be better in line with the upper part. I think the answer will be to go for a straight orthogonal segment.

I was not planning to, maybe at some point but don't hold your breath.

So, yesterday I received my new goodies: Shadow & Iron, a warbringer nemesis and 2 boxes of industrial terrain.

I have started building the warbringer. There are 3 sprues, organised in a similar way as for the other titans. It should be quite easy to have a second version of the warbringer with the belicosa and the remaining two arm weapons. I believe it will be a full plastic kit because the arm weapons are slightly different from their previous versions.

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The difference with the previous versions is that now both the weapons' mounts and the actual weapons have been designed to insert 5x1mm magnets (you can certainly use 4x1mm or 3x1mm magnets). So no more drilling there I'm afraid, but there are still plenty of other drilling opportunities elsewhere I think :biggrin.: Although I personally had no problem drilling to insert magnets, this is a welcome change as it makes the built a bit easier. This is also why I believe a second version of the warbringer would be a full plastic kit (that remains speculation of course).

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Another nice change is that some of the components now come with markings to help differentiate each other. The left and right feet are identified with L and R markings, the legs' armour plates also have markings as do the feet pistons' armour plates. When reading the instructions It is not immediately obvious. Nothing indicates there are markings in step 10 (feet), and steps 12 (pistons' armour plates) and 14 (legs' armour plates) show the back of the pieces but you can barely "read" the pieces. So it is only when having a close look at the pieces that you'll notice the markings.

For the armour plates, the first letter indicates left or right and the second indicates if the piece is front, back, outer or inner.

LF = Left Front

LO = Left Outer

LB = Left Back

LI = Left Inner

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As for other models, there are quite a few pegs that you can easily remove for more flexibility.

Here the legs are standing without any help, no glue, no blue tack, just thanks to the pegs. It is a bit of a static pose.

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Now the question is: how much flexibility is there in posing the legs?

You must take into account the very low tolerance built into the feet pistons. Contrarily to the Reaver where the pistons were complete ones, here they are divided into the lower part embedded at the back of the armour plates and the upper part embedded into the leg. Their respective length will determine how much flexibility you have to angle your feet. My first estimate is that tolerance is quite low for a front-back angle, and slightly higher for lateral angles.

You also need to take into account the tolerance built into the legs' pistons connecting the lower and upper parts of the leg. The leg's upper part as a peg on which to put the piston's end, while the lower part has a slot. This allows for some flexing.

Another constraint is the cables connecting the legs to groin. It is likely that they'll to be extended if you go for some more dynamic poses.

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That is where I am at the moment. Next steps will involve looking at magnets in more detail.

Edited by Mendi Warrior

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