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I didn't magnetise my Warhound weapons because of the wires attaching to the model. I'm not the greatest modeller but it was worth just leaving it glued for me.

 

I did however magnetise the bodies so they can rotate and are easier to store/transport.

 

I'm interested to see what you can do. (Seems everyone is a better modeller that me these days)

I didn't magnetise my Warhound weapons because of the wires attaching to the model. I'm not the greatest modeller but it was worth just leaving it glued for me.

 

I did however magnetise the bodies so they can rotate and are easier to store/transport.

 

I'm interested to see what you can do. (Seems everyone is a better modeller that me these days)

I'm not bothering with magnetizing either, though that has more to do with my plan to just buy a bunch of Warhounds anyway that will end up having every variety of weapon combos I want/need.

 

as for the wires that connect the weapon to the titan, I don't see an issue there, the place the "connect" to isn't visible normally unless you flip the model on it's back, and I've magnetized my Reaver's wired-up weapons by just gluing the cables to the arm and posing it so the connection points meet once it's attached

With regards to names, I'm probably going to stick to the semi-nautical theme. I'm thinking Charon (the ferryman), though his mates name is still to be decided.

 

Great name, no bias here. :whistling:

 

I think I'll just keep consistent with 5x1mms as standard - I think I'm using N35s for strength, as in terms of weight, it should work fine. Will let you know when I've finished though!

Thank you for the advice about magnets folks. I've got some different sizes in the post, so I'll see what works. I've also ordered a Reaver, so that should turn up next week.

 

I'm hoping to spend a few hours on my Warhounds tonight to see if I can get the basic assembly and cleanup sorted.

 

Dallo

Evening all,

 

I've made a bit of progress on my first Warhound. I've mocked up the arm and head assembly with blu tack to get a feel for the pose.

 

NUuZGKNh.jpg

 

I've also started painting some of the amour panels. I like the fact that there are lots of choices for the Warhound's armour. 

 

It means I can test out a paint scheme and use it if I like, but if it doesn't look great, I can just give it another go on a different piece.

 

yQu9QgXh.jpg

 

One of the things I wanted to do with this project (besides actually finish it) was to challenge myself to try new things. One of the new things is painting white and another is trying to improve my freehand. To this end, I've attempted a freehand white stripe down the back of one of the carapaces. It needs some tidying up, but for a first go, I think it went OK. For the white, so far I've painted on one coat of Administratum Grey, with some chunky highlights in White Scar. I'm planning to tidy up the highlights with a second coat of Administratum Grey.

 

As an aside, has anyone else had problems with their White Scar separating into multiple different layers? I've given mine a good shake, which seemed to mix it, but it was a bit lumpy. It was a new pot bought last week. 

 

I get the feeling Captain Semper might be a little happy with the colour scheme I've chosen. :tongue.:

 

Quick question, I was looking through the instructions for making the guns and from what I can see, there are four sets of cables and four gun types, but you can't use all four? The Plasma Blastgun uses either C17 or C18, while the other three guns share C15 and C16. Has anyone had success using C17 or 18 on the other guns? It would be a shame to include so many different gun options, only to have to leave one out because of the cable type.

 

I posted over in the list building thread with a 1250 point list I'm provisionally aiming for. It's basically all four Titans I own so it's nothing overly complicated, but it's nice to have a list to work towards. I'll be planning to fully magnetise the guns anyway, so it should make future list building easier.

 

C&C Welcome.

 

Dallo

 

 

White sucks. I’ve returned two Ceramites for having a big chunky, chaulky mess in them and White Scar covers as evenly as milk. I bought some off brand whites so I’ll let you know what I find, I’ve heard good and bad things about Vallejo’s.

 

One thing I’m trying is a Sigma Micron marker for free handing, if nothing else it lays down a super thin line to paint other colors over. I’ve heard a very soft pencil is also a good way to block out designs before painting so long as you don’t press hard.

Edited by Fajita Fan

last night I was trying to fix my white warlord head, decided to use ceramite white that was not opened yet and it was a one solid block.... straight into the bin.

 

tried a mix of celestra grey and vallejo game air white, rubbish result.

 

tomorrow i will build the last head I have, spray with corax white, gloss varnish it, recess wash, metallics and done! :)

I'd probably also work up from Ulthuan Grey, or another light grey - and start working that to white. It just means a few more layers, but it'll make the coverage of the lighter whites easier, as well as hopefully providing that gradient of colour for depth. This will depend slightly on your base colour of course, and so you might need to go for a darker grey for coverage, and then keep going lighter...

 

In terms of cables Brother Dallo, I've basically just left these off having just magnetised all my Warhounds. I might add them in later, but I'd need to look at where they'd fit etc. and if that adds enough to be considered in addition to the versatility offered.

I also left the cables off for now. Maybe some could be magnetised, but I haven't gone much further into thinking and planning. Using electric wire could be an alternative but not sure if it is worth the effort nor how to optimise their use (not too keen on drilling holes here and there)

Thanks for the tips folks, the white has been a bit of a challenge, so I'll keep trying on some practise pieces.

 

As I tend to neglect these logs, I'm trying to post lots of little steps, in the hopes that they keep me enthusiastic about the project.

 

Speaking of little steps, I've been working on fixing up the Warlord's base. When I got it, he was resting his foot on a pile of chalk like bricks.

 

I've since clipped and filed them flat(ish).

 

C5WWNN8h.jpg

 

I've also roughly cut a piece of MDF to size to see how it looks. I'm not 100% sure on what I want it to represent, apart from a higher level. I'm toying with cutting out a section and building up steps with plasticard, but I'm open to suggestions.

 

7gWUjx3h.jpg

 

Until next time.

 

Dallo

As I tend to neglect these logs, I'm trying to post lots of little steps, in the hopes that they keep me enthusiastic about the project.

 

I think they're all keeping each one of us enthusiastic - so please do keep on!

 

I like the different levels, even if it's like a sort of highway or larger curb sort of thing, but I also believe the levels are a nice way just to evoke movement in terms of the pose. Perhaps having those steps up would be good in tiny scale!

I used a Cities of Death floor to achieve a similar result for one of my warlords, kind of an elevated plaza, I plan on adding plasticard to make a stairway. It would also help convey the sense of scale.

 

Completely agreeing with Chaeron, it is very nice to see all the projects going on, very emulating

I think they're all keeping each one of us enthusiastic - so please do keep on!

 

 

Completely agreeing with Chaeron, it is very nice to see all the projects going on, very emulating

 

Thank you both for the kind words. They really help me to keep going with this project.

 

In the interest of keeping up momentum, here is what I've done on Tertio Aestus' base tonight.

 

I spent about 30 minutes tonight with my jeweller's saw and one snapped blade later, I'd managed to round off the MDF.

 

23mxVaHh.jpg

 

Here you can see an Epic Ork vehicle for scale. I'll definitely be putting it in a different spot when the base is done.

 

It's not quite an elevated highway overpass (Sorry Fajita Fan), but I think it looks not bad. I'm really lucky that the previous owner didn't glue the knee joints, so I still have a good degree of posing options with my Warlord.

 

gsFnHL5h.jpg

 

Here you can see the rear of the base.

 

Finally, here's some Epic orks for scale. They're still on the sprue for painting, but hopefully this gives people some sense of scale. They put the ledge around the 6ft scale in real life. Might make a ramp a more sensible option over steps. 

 

Fzljj5ph.jpg

 

I still haven't worked out exactly what the raised platform will represent. Possibly a road of some kind? Maybe a parking lot?

 

Dallo

Edited by Brother Dallo

Either option would work Dallo - you could then have the lower edge as more of a dusty, desolate level - and perhaps even a chainlink fence demarcating the edge of the 'car park' or with a road barrier perhaps? Might give a nice contrast and focal point to boot!

Either option would work Dallo - you could then have the lower edge as more of a dusty, desolate level - and perhaps even a chainlink fence demarcating the edge of the 'car park' or with a road barrier perhaps? Might give a nice contrast and focal point to boot!

I agree with this idea, though I'd point out that you should keep in mind how the Titan stepped up onto the ledge and thus likely kicked/crushed some part of the fence while doping so.

Thanks for the suggestions folks. One option is to have the top level be some kind of refinery/chemical plant, which I would build up with 40k bits like vehicle flamer tanks. The lower level would be "earth" of some kind, though I'm not too sure how to paint it. One option is GW's Martian orange texture paint, which should go nicely with green, though it's likely to stand out on my Realm of Battle board.

 

Tonight I got a few more mold lines cleaned and have been playing with magnets. I've got 2mm and 5mm rounds, but only a 2mm drill bit. I'm currently experimenting to see if the 2mm magnets are strong enough to hold the Warhound guns. If so, I'll just drill a hole into the end of the arm socket instead of clipping off some plastic for the 5mm magnet, which will be exposed.

 

I'll report back on my progress. If nothing else, I know I'll magnetise the hounds at the waist for ease of transport.

 

Dallo

So there was a cardboard box waiting for me when I got home.

 

Here's a teaser for my newest Titan Aes Minos.

 

j46GFzQh.jpg

 

As is appropriate for a teaser, the photo quality is suitably potato like. :tongue.: I wanted to do something a little different with this Engine. I've got a little fluff for him rolling about in my head and I think it's suitably grimdark.

 

I'll be making a start on building the skeleton tonight. I hear it can be a bit of an experience.

 

Wish me luck. :happy.:

 

Dallo

Thanks for the suggestions folks. One option is to have the top level be some kind of refinery/chemical plant, which I would build up with 40k bits like vehicle flamer tanks. The lower level would be "earth" of some kind, though I'm not too sure how to paint it. One option is GW's Martian orange texture paint, which should go nicely with green, though it's likely to stand out on my Realm of Battle board.

 

Sounds great to me Dallo! You could still do the cracked earth (with Agrellan, or by painting the Martian texture) - which might help to tie into your RoB Board?

 

In terms of magnets, you should be fine in terms of the the sizing - it's more the strength that'll contribute to that too. Be a fun experiment in any case!

 

Looking forward to seeing the Hounds unleashed!

Thanks for the comments gents. Not sure if you two are referring to the teaser picture when you mention Warhounds, but that's not a picture of a Warhound sprue. ;) The Warhounds are definitely a nice kit to build. While the fixed leg limits you somewhat in posing, it's quick and simple to assemble.

 

Chaeron, you may have hit the nail on the head with your basing suggestion. I'll have a think about it.

 

Dallo

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