Bryan Blaire

Missed this originally, but you may find this video helpful:

Just realize that if it’s reposting of GW IP (such as a scan of a GW model part), even if not for the use that GW puts it to, that would violate the rules here. If it is distinct enough to not infringe on GW’s IP, it will probably be okay to post. Current Moderators would know more and should probably be consulted before posting links like this.

So if you have the space, here’s two different versions of a similar idea - I would probably make the top drawer for tools, personally: I currently use two small wire mesh three drawer racks for tools and extra kit and basing materials under my desk, and a couple of the make-up organizers for on desk storage of tools. I haven’t upgraded to full under desk options, mostly because my leg space is sort of limited as it is, and I use my desk for both work and painting/hobbying at times during the week, so I can’t fully commit to just the hobby desk ATM. Hope those give you some ideas!

INKS, are you wanting something like a mobile painting station set up, or like an under desk storage option?

Good God it would be amazing to get a new Wolf Priest that aped that particular figure near-identically.

Jason/Slowfuse actually did a good discussion on mixing of colors all the way through to almost 1:32:00 - I like the concepts involved and doing my own color mixing now, getting away from GW’s triad system, so I think that if anyone is interested as well, give at least that chunk of this video a watch.

INKS, saw on the Monument Hobbies stream yesterday someone asked a specific question about edge highlighting a purple Nid carapace, so thought you might be interested (assuming it wasn’t you and you haven’t already heard this): Time stamp is right round 1:11:00 for the question and answer (ends about 1:13:30) - thought it was applicable and a neat discussion on the color thought behind selecting some highlight colors. One thing I’ve done starting in the last year and a half or so is to always have my paint journal (an actual physical heavy off-white ring-bound paper set) when I’m mixing my paints to record mixes that I really like and want to repeat - I fill the square with the mid-tone, record the mix, and then paint my highlighting colors (with recorded mixes) and my shadow color(s) in the block above (or I will fill two squares with the mid-tone and paint across both) so I can see practically exactly what the colors do over each other. I was painting some zombies and really like using Rakarth Flesh for that, and ended up stumbling across a mix that looks enough like Rakarth Flesh for me to use it with ProAcryl - 1 Red Grey:2 Warm Flesh:1 Bright Neutral Grey. I then highlighted it up with a 1 drop White Blue and shaded down mixing in a drop of Mahogany (for zombies, I like the cold highlights, but warm shadows to give it more of a dead tone). I like the ProAcryl results better than mixing with GW paints because I feel like the results are more consistent over all from being able to predict what a mix is going to look like better to the actual consistency of the paint itself. Hope that helps and if my ramble at the end was interesting, cool ( and maybe someone likes the paint recipe)!

Monument PA Blue Alien Skin Tutorial: https://monumenthobbies.com/blogs/methodologies/methodology-26-blue-alien-skin There may be a short or stream with that in it on YouTube, but can’t find t off-hand. Purple metal short might be of interest, but you would probably want to tone down the specularity/reflection/bright points for a more living material, unless you wanted to give a more metallic or super high gloss feel to the carapace:

The new weaponry looks great on the Dias, but I would definitely consider strongly removing the rectangular housing - it doesn’t mesh as well with the remainder of the vehicle and weapons to my eyes.

Teetengee, it really depends on which details you’ve been struggling with. Fine points are only part of it, but proper paint consistency and brush loading (which may involve actually draining paint out of the belly, depending on what you are doing) for what you are trying to do is also key. Brush care is also critical, especially for your finer point natural hair brushes, it will help them retain that point and proper belly to give you better results.

I mean, a Basilicanum is going for $499 US on eBay right now (there might be cheaper, but that’s the first one I saw), so while I don’t agree with GW’s current pricing, it will have to be better than that, right? It is an unfortunate time of the year for these to show up though, and I’m glad I have what I have already, but couldn’t they have pushed it like three months - I could have actually purchased then…

Why ancient Egypt - it just looks like Japan? They are fantastic sculpts, but definitely hit the aesthetic a little on the nose.

I use actual Silly Putty and it works great - I knead it a lot before use and if it looks greasy, I use a new microfiber towel (so I don’t get any fibers or bits from paper towel) to run it around until it doesn’t look greasy any more. After that, just smush it around what you want to mask off and you’re good. It’s also very reusable and if it gets to the point where you just have too much paint in it, the eggs of putty are pretty cheap.

It looks fantastic, Ace Debonair, really glad you could get it to work out!

My only thought is I might trim the outer element/pedipalp of Lhykis’s mask into a more curved only shape. Also, those Snarlfangz with the gobbos look like they would make great Fenrisian wolves if you could adjust the models and give me some hope for what comes out of the Space Wolves release.