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Stobz'z Legends.... Hello Darkness, my old friend...


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Thanks EPK dude! I've been away from the interweb for a couple of days, I really apprieciate your kind words :thumbsup:

 

Arkley, Bad Arkley :tongue.:

 

 

 

Should be Have been able to post a pic of the second to last RWBK late tonight (all going gone well...)

 

Brother Dominiq.

 

25969029803_22e242f5aa_b.jpg

 

26545782256_53f8099c9a_b.jpg

"In restless dreams I walked alone"

 

Log, log, log

:biggrin.:

stobz

Edited by Brother Stobz
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Hey thanks man, nice to get some cool feedback, black is kind of horrible to paint so I'm glad he turned out alright. :thumbsup:

 

I'm not a big fan of painting black either. Do you only use highlights or do you paint different shades of black/gray?

 

For the Black:

I base coat with Chaos/Abaddon Black, I then wash the undersides etc. with Nuln oil to flatten it; I then paint everything else and come back to it once I've tidied up any misses.

Then I edge highlight in Fortress Grey (and ad a little very watered down colour to some top areas), and finally I use the lightest dry-brush ever to bring up the top aspect areas (like the zenethal concept with spraying) and to weather a little to make it seem like he's moving forward. I then hit the rivets etc.

The true weathering is coming when I've done the bases, that way they get base colours 'splashed' up an onto them.

This guy is a little rough, but he'll do as a basic elite dude, a step or two above the tactical marines paint-job.

 

Hope that helps,

Stobz

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a question for you.  jbaeza94 and I were discussing priming Forge World resin models. Since you have a lovely squad of Tempests in your painting queue, we were wondering if you have any experience with priming them and what you intended to use for primer for them.

 

Thanks in advance!

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Hey Epher, no sweat.

 

I just did that job over the last couple of days.

Firstly I cleaned all the bits with an old tooth brush in warm water with dish washing liquid. That removes the annoying coating left over from their casting which prevents paint sticking properly. 

 

After they are fully dry (yesterday) I just use a can of matt black spray from a local supplier (I can't remember the brand but it is a quality car enamel). I keep the coats very light, they are only there to cover the minis so other paint can go on top,  not to clog up the details.

 

I hope that helps...

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Hey stobs, is there a way to know if you got all the mold release off? My resin felt kinda slick before the wash, but it was still a little slick, not much though, after. Is this just a quality of the resin or residue?
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Simple green will do it too :thumbsup:

 

Hey stobs, is there a way to know if you got all the mold release off? My resin felt kinda slick before the wash, but it was still a little slick, not much though, after. Is this just a quality of the resin or residue?

Not too sure, mine were all matt resin after my wash and prior to the painting, and they took the paint really well.

 

If there is still shine I'd just repeat the process to make sure. Better that than paint bubbles and other messes.

If not, FW resin is immune to damage from many petroleum products and simple green etc.; if you give those a light brush on with that toothbrush you should remove the mold release.

 

BS

Edited by Brother Stobz
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I use methylated spirit or alcohol to remove stubborn release agent but normally soapy water and a toothbrush work well enough. The problem is that you cannot really tell until you spray. :(

 

Spray primer handles residue far better than brush on too. I use either GW Chaos black (RW/HH) or Army Painter matt black (all the rest).

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Erhmahgerrd: I'm not too sure how to take a less in focus pic, but here is WIP 1 of my ETL16 vow....

(my cat was 'helping' take the pics)

26994988982_d846e76c68_z.jpg

 

Sweet Tempests, you are my storm in the night :tongue.:

Edited by Brother Stobz
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