StrayCatt Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have a suggestion on how you could recreate that level of detail on the rivets when you get to that point. Micromark has a line of 3D rivet decals available that would recreate that riveting effect perfectly. micromark rivets -Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHunters Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 The attentio to detail on this still baffles me, excellent work chap and a great looking colourscheme you have chosen. And those rivets look very interesting, if only they were sold in the UK! FTE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrayCatt Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 The attentio to detail on this still baffles me, excellent work chap and a great looking colourscheme you have chosen. And those rivets look very interesting, if only they were sold in the UK! FTE They will ship ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Not much going on to this date I did some work on the lower portion of the engines and stated detailing the #3 engine upper half. The biggest change is the following image which was the first taken with my new Rebel T3i Canon DSLR which Egad! is fully manual, I'm actually going to have to learn how to take pictures again. My old Kodak 290 (in the background) was having trouble extending the auto zoom lens (Getting it up as it were. ) so I guess it was time to retire it but this new camera will take some getting use to. I may have to read the manual though I did manage the image below right out of the box. http://i.imgur.com/rja78l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rja78.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Styrofoam04 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 fantastic work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Another bunch of blurry images but I figured out what I am doing wrong. I need to set the camera to Macro I just gotta find how to do that. Of course I could just read the damned manual but wheres the fun in that? Yeah Blackadder you'll have the damned thing for 20 years and never find half of what it's capable of. Gee I'd didn't know it could do that. Waddaya expect from someone whose VCR flashes 12:00 all the time. The black tape keeps peeling off. http://i.imgur.com/OnLKyl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OnLKy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0jMp4l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0jMp4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/W1Cj0l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/W1Cj0.jpg VCR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Wow, ten days since I posted on this thread! Sorry I've been busy. For those of you that have been following my Warlord thread I have not forgotten this project but I did need to update the Warlord thread as well. I ran into a snag on the engines which stymied me until I found a solution and strangely enough it was in my medicine cabinet namely the exhaust cones. While innovative the thread cones never satisfied me as a viable material. This morning while brushing my teeth infrequent as tha may be I noticed that my Shoprite mouthwash had the precise requirements for a plastic exhaust cone. So now I have a lifetime supply of cheap mouthwash (if I forgo opportunities for osculation) and three ready made exhaust cones as well Of course you realize that the above tale is a complete prevarication; I've had this idea in my pocket for six months or more. http://i.imgur.com/JRU0bl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/JRU0b.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dG9L6l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dG9L6.jpg Confession is good for the soul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Looking good, I am as always in awe of your ability! Regarding the camera, putting it in macro mode is very straightforward, there's a little dial on the tip right, just behind the button to take a photo, turn that to the 'flower' symbol and it's in macro mode. Failing that, if you want decent depth of field I'd suggest ditching macro entirely, use the 'Av' setting on the top and turn the dial behind the button until the screen says f22 or higher (bigger is better here). This mode is 'aperture priority', the camera will select its own shutter speed to correctly expose the photo so I would recommend using a tripod or other stable platform and the self timer setting to avoid camera shake! Hope that's helped! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Great work Blackadder. As always, it's great to see the progress of this project. Failing that, if you want decent depth of field I'd suggest ditching macro entirely, use the 'Av' setting on the top and turn the dial behind the button until the screen says f22 or higher (bigger is better here). Actually, you're half right, but you got the F-stop mixed up, and he'll want it the other way around. The 'Av' Setting is correct, but on my camera you can enter 'Av' mode with the dial and turn on the Macro mode with another button. Naturally, it may be totally different with his camera. High F-stop = Large lens aperture (Lots of light) = Small depth-of-field (Depth of focus in the picture) Low F-stop = Small lens aperture = Large depth-of-field The F-stop always mixed me up when I was learning photography, because it always seemed backwards to my brain. I was usually thinking about the depth-of-field (which I usually wanted more of), and forgot that it refers to the aperture size. I still mix them up sometimes. The 'Av' setting is correct. The camera will give the 'aperture priority' (read: leave it alone) and adjust the shutter speed to let enough light in to get a good picture. And as you said, with a small aperture giving a large depth-of-field, the shutter speed is going to be slowed down considerably to let enough light in to the camera. Therefor a tripod, or very well braced hands, will be needed to take a steady photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 You've mixed them up again then, higher the f-stop, the smaller the aperture and the less light hits the film/ccd. The tighter angles required for this result in an expanded depth of field, which when photographing miniatures up close is really what you want. F-stop is worked out by f/D (where f in the equation is the focal length, and D is the diameter of the entrance pupil, or aperture). I'm not going to get into a big debate about this (or get butthurt for being incorrectly corrected), it's a common and easily made mistake as f-stops and exposure are completely ass-backwards on first look, but once you get your head around how the f-stop number has been reached it makes more sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Agreed, I don't want to make a debate of this, but now I'm trying to figure out if my camera is ass-backwards, or if it's my brain. I had to actually check an old 35mm camera lense. :angry: You're right, I got confused again. (I think I need to avoid posting early in the morning) Low F-stop = large aperture. High F-stop = small aperture. But, it doesn't appear to change the advice. A picture is worth a thousand words in this case... http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/SubtleDiscord/WIP%20Thread%20Photos/DOF_01.jpg All settings equal on my Canon A540 - set to 'Av' in Macro mode. The shot on the left was set to F2.6, and the shutter speed auto corrected to 1/13 - nice deep depth of field. The shot on the right is set to F8.0, and the shutter speed auto corrected to 1/80 - very tight depth of field. Where my brain is having a stroke is why the lower F-stop (larger aperture) appears to need a slower shutter speed to let more light in. With the aperture open, more light should be getting in, and the shutter speed should be faster. Is there something with digital cameras that's different to film-based SLRs that I'm not aware of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Thanks for the advice and the accolades; ya know if I'd just take the cellophane off of the manual and read the d-mned thing I just might learn how to take a decent picture with it I've had it for close to a month and only taken 12 images! What a colossal waste of money I coulda bought a real FW t'hawk instead but then I'd have to go to the beach with that dinky DC290 zoom lens instead of that humongous T3i ZOOM, ARRR, ARRR, ARRR! Manual? we don't need no stinking manual. Question: If you are nearsighted and you are looking into a mirror at an object say 10 feet behind you, and you can see perfectly well at the distance you are from the surface of said mirror; why does the background image look as blurry as it would if you are looking at it directly? I mean, you are looking at the relatively close surface of the mirror; how does the mirror know you are nearsighted? Ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbabyjesus Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have no explanation for that subtle discord! It should be completely the other way around, higher f stop should (and in every case I have ever encountered does) result in a far greater depth of field, though the difference between 2.6 and 8.0 isn't all that significant at shorter focal differences, try going way up to f22+ and the difference should become more apparent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonewall Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I should have some pulsing LED circuit boards around somewhere that I designed years ago. Let me know if you are interested and I will dig them out. Just drop me an email stonewall78 at gmail.com As to you work it looks great so far, can't wait to see it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Sorry no email notification thanks for the offer I'll do that. Meanwhile: I overcame my malaise this weekend and took up the T'hawk again. I extended the wing roots 13mm each to accommodate the larger diameter engines, cured the negative dihedral, cut out the notch to receive the lights and glued the wing engines in place. In all not a bad amount of work. http://i.imgur.com/30Wgy.jpg http://i.imgur.com/30Wgyl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hkgm3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hkgm3l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/O94R1.jpg http://i.imgur.com/O94R1l.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Rivets can also easily be obtained by cracking open a used water filter, like in the Brita or Pur series, and dumping out all the little pellets. Simply cut them in half (or drill a small hole in the model), place it, and presto you're done. I got that trick from the Forgeworld painting guide (a really handy book!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Thanks for the tip but do I need to buy a Brita water filter or do I have to luck into one whilst searching through the recyc bin?:unsure: What diameter are the pellets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konskrypt Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Gotta say Blackadder, this work is frikkin amazin!! Keep up the good work, for the hopes it inspires us lesser mortals to attempt and replicate (badly) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Man I am hot today, I popped this together with one hand and a Martini in the other. It's a good thing I don't have a third hand, I'm feelin' that good. http://i.imgur.com/806Dc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/806Dcl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/d0W8a.jpg http://i.imgur.com/d0W8al.jpg And you can't replicate doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Nice. Sounds like you got a second wind on this. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 What diameter are the pellets? I've turned to Brita filter 'beads' as a low cost solution to round rivets, and they're not too bad as long as you're willing to sort them. All I can say is, invest in a set if very fine tipped tweezers. You'll need them. They range in size from less than 0.5mm to about 1.5mm. But, there are so many of them that it can be tricky pick out a bunch that are a consistent size. I find it's best to pick out a bunch that are close to what I'm looking for, and then when I have a lot that are close, remove the ones that are too big or small. It's a bit labour intensive, but they really are a very good low-cost alternative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GalaxyChief Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 You could use a small piece of wire mesh to help in sorting the larger ones out of the pile. Might make work a little easier for you. This build looks really nice thus far. Are you wing engines going to have two nozzles on them or just one? Just asking because of the shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Are your wing engines going to have two nozzles on them or just one? Just asking because of the shape. The engines have a central cylindrical core and have these two front and back drum like affairs giving them an oval shaped appearance. http://i.imgur.com/7sKjo.jpg I don't know what the designer of the model had in mind but I rationalize that they gather in rarefied oxygen in the extreme upper atmosphere (Bussard Ramjet fashion) to augment intake air in orbital space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Haduwig Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Is this project still ongoing? Would love to see how it turns out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irwit Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Where my brain is having a stroke is why the lower F-stop (larger aperture) appears to need a slower shutter speed to let more light in. With the aperture open, more light should be getting in, and the shutter speed should be faster. Is there something with digital cameras that's different to film-based SLRs that I'm not aware of? You're forgetting ISO. F-stop, low number = blurry/more out of focus and more light high number = shaper, more in focus, less light Shutter speed. Slow = more light in, more motion blur Fast = less light in, less motion blur ISO high number = brighter image + more grain/lower quality image low number = darker image, better quality image/less noise In aperture mode you are automating shutter speed AND ISO. Therefore depending on your camera logic shutter speed can change either way depending on what it sets your iso to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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