Legion Rising

[Augustus b'Raass]

Yo dawg, I heard you like to armour your armour so we armoured up your armour so you can armour while you armour. Dang. That looks cool.

 

@The_Chaplain: be ready to start prying off some sponsons then.

[JeffTibbetts]

Oh man. That looks like it's shaping up very nicely. :D Also, I like your updated graphics in the sig. Working on some site redesign while you're at it? 

[Olis]

Brother, it's a wonder what you can do with plasticard and a cropped image. Now we all really want to know more! :lol:

[Subtle Discord]

Augustus b'Raass is indeed correct The_Chaplain, there is no clearance to fit the sponson base under the armour plates, they are designed to only accept the sponsons from the outside. Just take care to do the majority of damage to the hull and not the sponsons (if you can) during removal, and the armour plates will completely cover any surface scarring.

 

You bring up a good point disease, there are a few projects and ideas that didn't make the list; either they are still too far out there, or I just plain forgot them. The Storm Raven extension kit mentioned earlier is one example (it's still on the board), and the Havoc Launcher is another. I really want to revisit the Havoc Launcher and make several variants; it's one of those projects that I suspect they will come together suddenly, when the right mix of motivation, open schedule, and inspiration, hit together. They are small parts, but missile racks are actually quite tricky to build and even tricky to properly cast. The Havoc launcher I produce now has taught me quite a bit that I will take forward to any future missile weapon systems builds.

 

Thanks all for the positive response. It took longer to get finished then I had hoped, but it came together nicely once I had the time to focus on it. Maybe I'm being too critical, but there is a minor issue with how some of the parts are casting, and I'll talk about that more later to look for some feedback. However, this update was going to be a single post, but as I was compiling pictures, the moulds for this kit kept getting more-and-more complete, giving me more pictures to add, and so this will mutate into 2 or 3 updates to cover everything. But first...

 

"And now, for something completely different!" On occasion, I have mentioned my desire to work my way up to scratch building a Chaos Titan scale vehicle of some description. For many years the Chaos Defiler kit had planted the seed of an idea that would blend a traditional Imperial titan with an up-scaled Defiler. Now, this is a long-term idea that I'm planning for after a nice formation of my Black Legion army is complete; in isolation, it would be an amazing build, but too lonely. You need an army to surround something of this scale to do it justice, in my personal opinion. Now that said, my brain is always processing ideas and looking for inspiration and/or materials, and this opportunity was just too perfect to pass up.

 

The original idea, many years ago, was always to build this mostly from scratch. But without anything to use as a starting substructure, the idea was (is) very daunting, to say the least. Now, with the release of the Lord of Skulls and the Imperial Knight kits, I figured they might become a good base to start with, but the scale seemed a bit too small for what I really had in mind. I still have my ideas for those kits, but Hasbro was kind enough to solve my problem in one go; enter the Terradrone. Now, knowing how short-lived some products can be in our fast-paced modern times (especially with toys), I got one of these before they almost inevitably stopped making them; even if it has to sit on a shelf for a while, it's now just waiting to go.

 

∙ Easily large enough to properly stomp on a Rhino; Santa brought me this for Christmas with strict instructions that it be transformed into a Chaos war machine, so who am I to argue?

 

As a proper toy, it's actually a little underwhelming; it's not very fast moving and its rate-of-fire is somewhat slow. But, it is surprisingly accurate in its movement, nicely articulated in the legs, plus reasonably solid feeling in its build construction. Ultimately it's going to be used mostly as a static model that will have the benefit of being able to change pose, and the added novelty of being able to walk, even if it won't likely do it very often.

 

Who am I kidding, once it's done I'll play with it all the time! "Die Imperial lap-dogs!" *stomp stomp stomp* "Cannon charging!"... Errr... did I say that out loud? *smiles sheepishly*

 

It's still a massive build, but having this to use as a substructure will greatly reduce the design work needed to make it real. I've got a good idea of how I'll be adding armour plates to skin the legs and totally transform the look of the bottom; it only has two legs (each repeated 3 times) so I can build limited prototypes and cast enough to go around. The upper 'body' is another story completely, and will require much more consideration; it does tilt to shoot farther (indirect fire!) but I'm not sure if or how I will take advantage of that.

 

For now, it's enough to have a solid starting form to work with, and I can just concentrate on doing the legs; there's plenty of time to give proper consideration to how the top will look and function. The top is actually totally modular and easily removable (useful for storage and transport) so it can really be considered separately; it might even open the door to having different upper bodies for different variations of the final model.

 

I have no idea at what pace this will take form but expect it to turn up, looking considerably different, at some point in the future. It's going to be an ambitious build, even with such a wonderful starting substructure, but it's also going to be such a great centerpiece to the army I'm looking forward to the challenge it will be. It's one of those projects that has such a great metal image, I'm driven to see it made real. Until I can start a proper build, it will be an excellent sketching subject, so expect to see some of those soon enough; I can make them part of my college sketching requirements, so the effort can be useful in more than one way.

 

∙ Funny thing about finishing a prototype. Once the parts are complete, it's still not really complete. Now it needs to be setup for moulds.

 

The swapping plates to move the sponson between the from and rear positions is added complexity to the build, and that will add to the number of moulds; but, it's a straight forward idea that's worth the effort to explore. Time to take the parts and wrap them in some rubber. But first, vents, lots of vents.

 

∙ The Chop-It and Sand-It from Micro-Mark are perfect for making the many repeating bits needed for making lots of vents.

 

The double doors of the center armour components create a dead zone between them; as you fill the object in the mould, bubbles can get caught in between the doors. Without vents, there's nothing to keep the bubbles moving to force them out. Even with the vents, it can be a spot prone to catching annoying bubbles.

 

∙ Ooo... pink. Slaanesh should be proud. I've changed the rubber that I've been making my newest moulds from, and that's a subject unto itself for another post.

 

Some in-progress pictures of me making moulds. As always, I make my moulds with generous wall thicknesses; the thicker the mould, the more resistant to warping it is. Deep locking pins mean the mould locks together very tightly, and with just a rubber band to wrap and hold the mould together, it's ready to cast with.

 

∙ Resin casting is an almost addictive process; it's always a downright gratifying experience to see what was once parts and pieces held together with glue and epoxy turn into solid pieces of clean plastic.

 

The very first casts of a new mould. Mmm... yeah, that's the good stuff. As each new mould was completed the kit was finally able to take form...

 

∙ Loricatus Mk.II Pattern Heavy Armour kit - The Dark Works 2015.

 

So, the moulds are complete, and have now cured for a few days so they can start producing soon... but, there's an unexpected catch. There seems to be a small issue with how the parts are curing and it's affecting the fit of the modular center plate used to swap the sponson; where it was quite tight in the styrene prototype build, it is slightly looser in the final resin cast. As I said earlier, while there is a slight change in the fit, maybe I'm being too critical. It took me very little effort to fix it by physically altering the part, and it could also be filled with the greensuff that will be inevitable to make the parts seamless either way.

 

So, maybe I need some outside perspective and input; I'll take some pictures of the issue and see what the public thinks of it. There are solutions, but with the labour and materials invested in the kit so far, I want to temper my desire to produce top quality kit with being realistic. Let me get my next article worked up, and you'll better see what I'm talking about. A picture (or several) is worth a thousand words, and all that.

 

On a related side note; once this kit is finished and photographed for The Dark Works product shots, I will be finally assembling and painting this Land Raider model. After being in my collection for 3+ years and being used to make three different resin kits, I think it's done enough work and deserves to go to pasture, as it were. I'm very pleased with the idea of even priming this model after seeing it grey for all these years; it will be downright surreal to see it with colour on it. I can't wait. And once it's done it will give me an excuse to do some Terminators to put in it... someday...

 

Thanks for reading. As always, speak and be heard! Comments, questions, input, and feedback are always welcome.

 

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Studio Silvernale]

Do want....

[The_Chaplain]

Sweet Emperor, it's beautiful...

 

Conservative estimate, how long do you think it will take for the Loricatus mk ii to hit your webstore? 

[Chaeron]

Superb, as ever. If you ever do (or have done) a tutorial on how you cast so effectively, I'd be extremely interested. It's something I've always wanted to do - but it's quite daunting!

[Quixus]

Wow the upcoming land raider kit looks great, if a bit bland compared to the chaos stuff, but that was to be expected. It could really use some ornaments like the arrows in the corners of the chaos kits. But somehow arrows seem to be chaos only, even when they are not part of the eight pointed star.

 

Do those bits replace normal land raider parts or can you add them to a normal land raider, possibly with magnets to use as extra armour?

Edited January 7, 2015 by Quixus

[Lexington]

Sweet jeebus, man. Fantastic build and cast. Can't wait to see it up on TDW - my Chaos army has Needs!

[Augustus b'Raass]

Aw mah GAAAWD! I am *so* looking forward to that six legged walker. The possibilities! Perhaps you could even field it as a Reaver titan - which would require that it takes three weapons on top, but hey, the possibilities with that thing are endless. I love this idea and I love this project. If I wasn't a fan of this awesome thread already, I'd hit the subscribe button for that thing alone.

 

Now, as for the LR extra armour: I really like that you're making two versions -back and front mounted weapon options. My question is did you do that for the chaos version too or not? And to take away some concerns by Quixus, I think the banding alone is pretty ornamental already. It really would add an extra layer to the in-itself-bland LR. 

[Quixus]

Now, as for the LR extra armour: I really like that you're making two versions -back and front mounted weapon options. My question is did you do that for the chaos version too or not?

I don't think there are two kits. It looks like he just switched the door with the lascannon, just as you can with the normal kit. The door ornaments are different for the left and right side door though.

[JeffTibbetts]

I'm eager to see the pics of the fit gap you mentioned. I think it'd have to be pretty severely off to consider recasting at all, bud. I love how transparent you are about it, and your commitment to quality above all else is laudable as always. I think this kit looks stellar, and I'm eager to see it in full production myself. Not like I have a ton of money for this kind of thing, but eventually I'd love to add some of your loyalist armor kits to my forces as they continue to grow. 

 

Inspiring as always to see your process in action. I simply can't believe how consistently flawless your builds are. 

[Subtle Discord]

Ok, first up, to answer some questions...

 

Conservative estimate on this kit being available? How about, now? I've got a first batch cast up and they've cured for 36+ hours, so they're ready to go. I like to let my resin cure for 48 hours at the minimum before I consider packing or shipping so it's reached full hardness. Resin goes through distinct stages as it cures; first, it's soft like toffy, then it goes hard with a bit of flex/bend (best time to de-mould an object), then it reaches full hardness but becomes very brittle (very easy to break items), and then it cures to the final blend of tough, rigid, and slightly flexible. 24 hours is usually enough to get a full cure, but I like the extra time as the material data literature takes all its measures (flex strength, harness, shrinkage, etc.) after 48 hours, so it seems a safe bet there's a reason, and I use the same window as an acceptable cure time.

 

I do want to do some more articles about mould making to expand on what I have already done on Page 15-16, and then get to the actual resin casting with the moulds Chaeron, but there are always so many things I want to do, and never enough time. Trust that it's planned at some point, hopefully, this spring and summer. In short, the largest factor to good casts (after making a good mold like those on 15-16) is vacuum and/or pressure. Vacuum is used to boil bubbles out of the resin while it's still liquid, and when normal pressure is restored and the remaining bubble will shrink; high pressure (40-50+ PSI) is used to simply crush bubbles down. Small enough bubbles will literally dissolve into the resin. In fact, without pressure 90% of the rivets in my designs hold a bubble and are ruined; the pressure makes almost every rivet form perfectly every time. It is totally possible to do great casts with much less, but results will be hit-and-miss; fine for hobby production, but you'll quickly become frustrated if you want any serious consistency in the results.

 

I'm glad that my efforts at transparency are obvious JeffTibbets, it's a very conscious effort on my part. I know exactly what I want to produce, and it's nothing but the best that my skills can muster, so I have nothing to hide. So, if I've got nothing to hide, why not show what I'm doing to enlighten those who might be interested? Some might want to know because they want to try for themselves (I know I'm always looking for well-presented 'how it's done' content, I can't be alone) and some might just want to see how it's done out of more casual curiosity. Either way, I have a knack for it, people seem to appreciate it, and I like the progressive documentation, so I have no problem letting you all peer in on my workbench.

 

To clarify a bit Quixus and Augustus, these kits were very originally intended to be over-the-top Extra Armour with blatant Chaos design styling; but with the addition of newer variants and things like Relic vehicles, I think they can be used more broadly. They could be magnetized, but I think it would be more trouble than it would be worth; the Sponsons are intended to attach to (not through) these plates, and would have to move from the plates to the vehicle, and vice-versa when you swapped the plates on-and-off. Why not just attach them and make the vehicle badass all the time? Rule of cool and all that. I promise your opponent won't mind.

 

∙ The new Mk.II kit uses a modular plate to select the orientation of the door and sponson. It's also the feature that's teaching me a lesson in resin casting.

 

This idea came to me after I made my first Land Raider Armour kit, so it's only available on the new kit. As the Mk.I moulds age it's only a matter of time before they need to be replaced; I might add a second center plate to add this option to that kit in the future, but for now the Mk.I kit only comes in the single (Sponsons forward, doors back) configuration. I've also already got a good idea for a Mk.III that I really like, but that's getting ahead of myself.

 

∙ I always build with accuracy and precision in mind and in this case, I was very particular about the fit of the swapping center plate.

 

Every detail of a prototype, good or bad, will be replicated in the copy; time and care taken in the build will pay off in the final product. In this case, I knew that a slight gap between the plate and trim was inevitable. I still tried to make it as tight as possible so it will take as little effort as possible to fill to make it seamless. The idea was that it should fit so snugly that the part would align itself with little effort.

 

∙ Not all parts are created equal when you're casting in resin, and these parts prove the point.

 

After casting everything looks good, but the fit has changed ever-so-slightly. Where the plate was very snug in the prototype, it's become slightly looser in the casting. From what I can tell the change in thickness of the area where the plate sits compared to the plate itself made the parts cure and shrink differently; the base was much thinner (0.75mm) so it shrank very little and the plate is thicker (2.25mm) that part shrank more during curing. In the end, the gap is a fraction of a millimeter wider, so it's not a huge deal but it's annoying when I was trying so hard to make it to a tighter tolerance.

 

∙ Not my preferred solution, but dealing with the gap isn't that difficult.

 

After sleeping on it and considering some of the fit issues I've had with Forge World models, I've come to the conclusion that I am being critical. I want to make top-notch kits, but I need to temper that with being realistic. Since a bit of greenstuff will be needed even if the fit is really good, it could easily fill the gap with no modification. I've been able to close the gap by making a few cuts in the base plate, filing a bit of resin away, and gluing it down as normal. With the top plate in place, you'd never know the difference.

 

∙ Much more clean-lined than the Mk.I Armour kit, the open areas of the Loricatus Mk.II Armour kit is just begging for some freehand mural painting.

 

Beyond that minor unexpected issue that I've shown here the rest of the kit is casting near flawlessly; sharp details, perfectly straight lines, absolutely flat panels, and wonderfully tight fit, all as it should be. I'll be flipping the switch on them for my shop in the next day or two after I get a few last things sorted out. Thanks as always for the interest in my work, everyone.

 

It also dawned on me over the last few days, as I was looking at some pictures of vehicle variants, this kit would make a perfect base for my take on an official FW Mk.IIb Land Raider. The modular plates could easily be changed into sponson enclosures like that of the FW Mk.IIb; and it wouldn't even require a change in the base armour plate to make them fit. Yep, I think the Mk.III might just have to consider that...

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[The_Chaplain]

Simply beautiful Subtle Discord.  I absolutely agree that the surfaces of the mkII are begging for murals.  Well done man, I'm at a loss for words. 

[Augustus b'Raass]

Stunning work as always and your transparency is hugely appreciated. It is also good for business, as it gives you a huge personality bonus in my book.

 

About the fit, I'm glad you told yourself you're being too critical. I had to really look carefully to spot the ever so slight gap you were talking about and I've worked with FW kits that have almost 5mm gaps between parts. I have and still am building using your awesome stuff and I am very confident to say that your products are better than FW. Hands down.

[Finn]

This is one of my favourite Chaos threads. Your vehicles are just perfect, they have a distinct chaotic feel without all the silly spikes.

[JeffTibbetts]

Wow. The level of insight you provide is fascinating. It's like talking to a big company's head of production who takes every aspect of their craft deadly seriously. You never come across as a hobbiest who's just messing around. I don't mean that in a negative way at all, it's just that you're on another level completely. I, for one, really appreciate the insight and find it wonderful to read. I also love "how it's made" type shows but yours happens to focus on jaw-dropping kits for my favorite hobby. And this latest is the best so far. I want this LR kit so badly it's not even funny.

[Rift Blade]

I keep checking on this thread simply because as has been said by others, you are simply on a whole different level. Your stuff is amazing. Hell, I'm tempted to order one or two of your casts & I'm a Wolves player. Keep up the work. Really looking forward to your next piece of art because that's what it is. Art.

[rhodry]

Wow that is a great bit of kit.As others have said you are on another level with what you make and sell and the openness you show is brilliant,I know it takes time from your hobby but it is great for your customers and fans.

[Subtle Discord]

Aw jeez, *kicks at the dirt* how could I not write articles and posts when I get feedback like this? Most times it's just pure positive energy that gives me a boost and motivation to keep at it. Sometimes it's a more unexpected insight that I get from reading between the lines, or a change in perspective from the right input/feedback. I've learned that I have great ideas and the ability to make them real, but I'm just me, and there's an entire world of experience out there. I'm better at what I do because I share and seek input, without a doubt.
 
So, as one last serious article before I get swamped under by school for the next 14 weeks, I've got a mix of tools, techniques, and materials to ramble about. Get comfy, it's going to be a big one. First up, a bit of homemade kit...
 

∙ The Easy-Bake Oven has nothing on this simple setup; I give you the Greenstuff Oven. Or maybe it should be called the Kneadatite Kiln so it sounds more sophisticated.
 
I like to use standard arm lamps around my studio, especially at my painting bench. They're a low-cost lighting solution that is useful with how adjustable they are. They're also prone to wearing out and breaking since they're not exactly expensive; easy to replace, but now I also have a use for the leftover lamp. By adding an incandescent light bulb and combining it with a coffee can, it produces and stores just enough heat to speed the cure of epoxy putty, without endangering any resin or plastic.
 
The foiled cardboard of this coffee can makes it perfect for the task. Any properly size container will do, but the reflective nature of this type can help improve the effect. The bulb is 25w, and that is the perfect strength; I also tested a 15w bulb which didn't generate enough heat, and 40w which was enough to cause styrene to start warping. I've used it with the 25w bulb on several objects (some very delicate) with no adverse effects to the styrene or resin.
 
I would estimate that this little oven cuts the cure time of Greenstuff in half, and helps to alleviate one of the things I hate about working with it; to do Greenstuff sculpting work well, many times you need to work in layers. And I hate waiting for layers to cure so I get discouraged to even start some projects. It's far from instant, but it certainly helps.
 

∙ A simple trick for improving the pins used to hold a build or conversion together, I've been meaning to show this tip for a long time.
 
Pins are essential to help certain builds stay together, it's as simple as that. any pin is good, but there's a super simple way to make them better; add texture.
 
1) I consider a good set of pliers an all-around must-have tool for any bench; sometimes you just need the gripping power. I make sure mine have very well-defined teeth in the jaws of the pliers for just the following purpose.
 
2) By gripping the pin wire in the pliers and twisting it several times you can score some texture into the pin. You want to grip it tightly so that the teeth bite into the metal a bit but don't go overboard. Work your way down the wire to make a good length of textured wire.
 
3) With this added texture on the wire, super glue will have something much more substantial to lock into as it dries. This simple change takes just a few seconds to do, but it will make pinned joints much stronger against both twisting and pulling forces. I actually dread the idea of trying to dismantle anything I've assembled with these pins; they work so well that many times the only way to remove something mounted with one is by destroying it.
 

∙ I've mentioned adding a second metal point to a compass and using it to cut circles, and here's how I use it to do just that.
 
1) Tilt the compass and gently scribe the circle into the plastic. Take your time, it will cut rather well with modest pressure and several passes. This can work on surprisingly thick card to get very accurate circles; here I'm cutting a 1.5mm styrene sheet. Start with the first circle at the size you want. It's best to cut the circle slightly larger than what will be needed; the edge of the cut will be a bit rough and you'll want to file and/or sand to finish, and that will shrink it a little bit.
 
2) Use a fine pin to poke the center point through the plastic. All you need is a point to use as a guide on the other side, so it doesn't need to be rammed through, but it will depend on the thickness of the material and what kind of pressure you'll need to get at least a small point to work with.
 
3) The act of cutting the circle can force the compass out of alignment, be sure to test that it's still the right size before you flip and cut a second circle on the other side of the plastic. Naturally, you want to closely match the first circle. How deep you need to cut will really depend on the thickness of the material, but you'll be surprised that it doesn't need to be very deep for the next step to work every time.
 

∙ The great thing about styrene, it loves to bend and snap on a cut line, even if it's not that deep. The break will even usually be a clean 90 degrees many times.
 
1) Simply bend the sheet firmly but carefully to split the scribed line into a proper break. Do it gently in both directions to get an even break from both sides.
 
2) Work around the circle and weaken the grip it has on the sheet with the bending action. Stiff areas near the edge of sheets can be stubborn to do with fingers, just use your handy-dandy pliers to help with the job.
 
3) Once you've worked around the circle it will reach a point where it will all but fall out of the sheet. It will be a bit rough around the edge, but still very clean and accurate.
 
4) It's already marked with a perfectly centered point for drilling for all sorts of purposes if it's useful. Great for adding magnetic plates to tank turrets, for example.
 

∙ Used to carefully apply super glue, I managed to break this little tool cleaning it after using it during the Decimator build, so I'll take the opportunity to show how to make one.
 
I was turned on to this wonderful little tool idea by the thread A Detailed Quality build of a Storm Eagle. This tutorial in general is a wealth of insight into the experience of assembling an advanced Forge World model. Not only does the author detail the problems and fixes for the model and build, but also many extra efforts are taken to add many extra details to the kit. Truly inspiring and informative, and this tool is a perfect example.
 
You'll want somewhat larger needles to make one of these. A few different sizes for different jobs is never a bad thing. A pack of needles will cost a few dollars, and the extra needles you don't use will always be useful as actual needles.
 

∙ You can buy these tools already made from some hobby suppliers, but making them is so easy, it seems silly to spend more than $2 for some needles.
 
1) You'll need to nip off the end of the needle to get the desired forked shape. Be aware that needles are made from extremely hard steel (A jeweler saw-blade in my jigsaw would not cut this needle) and will most likely leave divot marks in the clipper's cutting blades. I have a set of cheaper clippers for doing such potentially damaging jobs.
 
2) Take care when you clip off the end, the bit will fly like a tiny missile; safety goggles are advised. This is what you want, but it's going to be rough and need some cleanup.
 
3) I start with a sanding block with 320 grit sandpaper to clean and shape the ends. Again, because the needle is so hard you'll need to use black silicon carbide sandpaper. Once I have the shape I work up to higher grit to smooth the finish.
 
4) With some loose sandpaper the inside of the tines are cleaned up and shaped a little.
 
5) To finish them, I work up to 600 grit and then 800 grit to get a nice finish on the surface. you want them to have a clean finish so they are easier to clean. Since they're used with super glue it's inevitable that the glue will build up on them and need to be removed while in use; a smooth surface will avoid buildup in the first place, and scrape clean easier when you need to.
 

∙ Behold the amazing power of... Capillary Action! It happens so quickly it can be tricky to photograph so the middle shot is a bit out-of-focus.
 
Just touching the tool with a drop of liquid glue will cause the capillary action to pull a small measure of glue into the tool. Again, the photos for this are a little tricky; clear glue doesn't photograph well. Give it a try and you'll quickly see; touch the tool to a gap or join that you want to apply glue to and capillary action will pull the glue from the tool and into the gap/join.
 
By placing the hoses for the Decimator in drilled holes first to test and adjust the fit, and then carefully applying glue with this tool, I was able to lock these hoses in place without any messy glue buildup or mishaps. I've even carefully glued some of these hoses together to help lock them tight, and the light touch of this tool helped keep it very clean.
 

∙ I've been using the pictured Mold Star 30 for years, and while I like how it performs I was interested in improving my moulds.
 
Put simply, resin casting moulds (all moulds, really) wear out. The plastic while it is in liquid form is actually very volatile and will actually attack rubber little-by-little as the mould is exposed to the plastic over-and-over. The plastic also produces a significant amount out heat while it cures, and I'm sure that can't help. And then there's the simple act of the object being pulled free from the mould's surface, slowly wearing away at the rubber. Many times you also need to bend and flex the mould to free an object, which is also hard on a mould, especially as it gets older.
 
It's no wonder moulds will dry out like the one pictured here; the pale colour of the left mould is an indicator of the age of this mould. At first, the discolouration has no effect on the cast quality, but as it expands it will make the surface so brittle that it's only a matter of time before defects start to appear.
 

∙ So, in the spirit of exploring my options I chose to try some new products to see if I can improve my the lifespan of my moulds.
 
Mould Max 30, as the name might suggest, is rather similar to Mould Star 30, but it boasts a better tear strength, a long mould life, and it's bit stiffer once cured which helps to ensure items don't deform during casting work. Where the Mold Start is a 50/50 mix, Mold Max 30 is mixed 10-to-1. Mould Max 30 also takes 24 hours to fully cure opposed to just 8 hours for Mould Star 30. Mold Star 30 also pours noticeably faster (it's less viscous) than the Mold Max 30, so it doesn't catch bubbles as easily; Mold Max 30 benefits from being vacuum degassed before pouring a mould.
 
Both rubbers perform very well, but it seems like the Mold Max 30 is in fact aging better. It will take more use to see how it holds up over the long term. Its tear strength and stiffness is also noticeably improved, but all of these improvements come with the need for equipment to get the most out of it, and a longer curing time. I would still recommend the Mold Star 30 as the better general-use rubber for the average hobbyist, but if you can do it right, Mold Max 30 can be worth the effort.
 
Finally, a few words about the mould release I use. Mann Release 205 is a general-purpose release that I've been using for years, and it does a great job, but it's not perfect. It's very thin and requires a separate spray bottle that never works as well as it could. I still rely on 205 during my mould making because of how good it is for treating the split for the mould.
 
But for actual casting I'm really liking the Mann Release 200 that I have started using in the last few months. It's a canned aerosol product that goes on very lightly and smoothly, and it even treats the surface of the mould so that the castings have a wonderfully smooth surface. The only downside of this release agent is how quickly it gets used up. It doesn't need to be applied heavily, but if you're doing lots of casting it will gobble up a can in no time at all, even if you use it sparingly. The good stuff never lasts as long as you'd like.
 
And on that note, thanks for reading. As always, things are brewing in the background as I'm grinding through my college work and I'll be ready to jump on things once I can get back in the studio. Classes finish at the end of April, so expect some garbled ramblings to emerge sometime shortly after. Hopefully, I'll be able to squeeze something in before then, but time will tell.
 
"Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast." ~ Ace Rimmer

 

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

I made a putty kiln out of a lamp and an empty one gallon paint can I bought from a local hardware superstore, since I don't know anyone that buys coffee in such volumes for a suitable can. Instead of trying to cut out a door in the side, as a lot of the putty kiln tutorials on the internet suggest, I just removed the bottom of the can with a can opener instead of trying to cut a door into the side as a lot of the tutorials out there suggest.

 

The molding tutorial is awesome, and I want to try this soon with some custom sculpted helmets, so thanks for taking the time out of your schedule for this.

[The_Chaplain]

A very interesting insight into your work as a modeller and cast maker SD!  Looking forward to what emerges in this thread once your classes are finished for the semester, best of luck on your classes btw.

[Augustus b'Raass]

Awesome as always. I've tried casting and know how difficult it can be - I'm amazed by your skills. Also, your vacuum chamber helps. ;)

[JeffTibbetts]

Great tips! These are the kind of tips that one might reasonable never expect to leave your own workshop. I think a lot of us have little tricks like this and we never bother sharing. Thanks so much! 

[Chaeron]

Out of interest SD - what would a vacuum chamber set you back nowadays?