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@Luna - I'd prefer that you didn't. >_>

 

@molotov - I plan to keep working on them, but progress might slow with this new idea making waves in my head.  Ok, slower than normal.

 

@Stabby - I'll do my best!

 

Did some work on a test paint scheme today for the X guys, but it didn't quite come out how I had hoped.

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Very nice stuff mate, you got some real skills with the GS. A handy tip for fabrics, get a towel and hang it from your waist then look in the mirror. The heavier material of the towel exaggerates the folds and gives you a better idea of the proportions.

Another handy tip is to flatten out some GS on a plastic flat surface like a blister pack. Make use that you have vasalene under it then flatten the GS out making sure it is smooth and evenly flat. Once it's dry cut it to a rectangle then you can sculpt the folds on either side, it means that you can have free hanging material rather than clinging to the model all the time.

Dry fit it by putting it on the model, I tend to super glue it in place once I have done the underside then do the outer later while it is on the model.

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@KBA - Yeah, and I think it's kicking my butt. Four attempts and the only one that I was mildly happy was not only really difficult to do, it was practically impossible to see the blue highlighting/blending I had done unless you were looking at it under a couple of high watt light bulbs. I might have made the pronouncement of my project idea a little prematurely. >_<

 

@Doghouse - Thanks, man, the compliment means a lot coming from you and that's a good idea for for fabric I will have to try.

 

I spent the last couple of hours futzing around with the BaC contemptor and after getting a good look at it all the way around, there's a few things I don't like. First, the knees are terrible in comparison to the FW model and is going to make reposing the legs a hell of a lot more involved. Second, is the extremely limited range of motion and posing options you have with the arms. Having bought multiple weapons when I got the resin contemptor, I had some spare parts left over and set about trying to graft the resin arm mount into the plastic shoulder. 

 

http://i.imgur.com/zQSi5E7.png

 

 

I think it worked out well. :D

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Alright, here's the little tutorial on how I did that first arm. You will need:

 

*One poorly engineered and difficult-to-modify Contemptor from the Betrayal at Calth box set

*X-Acto or other type of hobby knife with a sharp blade.

*Files or other sanding instruments

*Shoulder sub-assembly from the resin FW Contemptor - the two parts that connect the weapon to the shoulder

 

Step 1) Remove the weapons from the shoulder assembly.

 

http://i.imgur.com/DYINRST.png

 

Cut straight across where the red lines indicate. I'd suggest a sharp hobby blade over a saw so there's less material removed. If you cut it correctly, you won't need to modify the plastic weapon to fit with the resin arm assembly.

 

Step 2) Remove this area from the backside of the shoulder piece.

 

http://i.imgur.com/g6LjSOZ.png

 

It doesn't have to be real pretty because we'll be modifying the new flat edge in the next step.

 

Step 3) Cut the new flat edge in the following area.

 

http://i.imgur.com/gbrLMSZ.png

 

It should look something like this when done:

 

http://i.imgur.com/xT4Fvoq.png

 

Use some files to clean up the rough areas and smooth everything out.

 

Step 4) Remove the upper arm sub-assembly from the front half of the plastic shoulder, marked out in red.

 

http://i.imgur.com/urP6w0a.png

 

We will not be cutting it from this side, though. Why? Because if you put a lot of pressure on the blade while the piece is sitting like this, you could damage the 'walls' that it's sitting on. Instead, flip it over and make the cuts like this:

 

http://i.imgur.com/WFYsWSL.png

 

You can see where I already made the cut on the left, and on the right, the X-Acto blade is currently deep into the plastic. And you want this to be one single cut on each side... don't saw at it.

 

Here's how it looks after both cuts have been made, and I've marked in red how far up they should reach.

 

http://i.imgur.com/yZalIFj.png

 

Step 5) Remove the plastic upper arm sub-assmbly.

 

Flip the piece back over and we'll using the blade on the area marked out in red.

 

http://i.imgur.com/KWoVhz3.png

 

You can see how the finished one looks to get an idea. Now, previously I said we wouldn't be cutting it in this position because we don't want to risk damaging the plastic, right? Well, we're not going to be cutting it, but scribing a line where it's marked in red. What's the difference? Anyone who's done some scratch building with sheet plastic will already know what I'm talking about, but for those who haven't, you're going to turn your hobby blade upside-down and use the topside tip of the blade to score, or scribe, a groove where indicated. You only need to use enough pressure to feel it digging into the plastic, and it might take 10-15 passes to get the groove deep enough. Take it slow so you make sure your blade stays straight, as it's very easy to get it out of alignment if you're going too fast.

 

Without an extra pair of hands it's difficult to photograph how this should look while you're doing it, but here's the best I could do with just me.

 

http://i.imgur.com/ZLsX7gr.png

 

Every five passes or so I'd give the piece a gentle wiggle to see if it moved, because the point here isn't to scribe all the way through the plastic; you're going to get the groove deep enough to let you bend the plastic and snap it off from the shoulder. Once done, you should be about here.

 

http://i.imgur.com/1O9ooaP.png

 

At this point, the resin one probably won't fit in yet, and I did it this way on purpose so I can slowly trim those inner walls down until the resin fits in there snugly. Like so:

 

http://i.imgur.com/kx2wFn6.png

 

Once the resin gets close to fitting, start cleaning up the inner walls with files.

 

Step 6) Profit!

 

Since I left enough of the little ring on top of the plastic multi-melta, it fits snugly into the new resin part. Now you can magnetize the parts at this point if you choose to, and have fun with all the new posing and weapon options you just opened yourself up to.

 

Come at me bro!

 

http://i.imgur.com/DqBCUYD.png

 

Moar!

 

http://i.imgur.com/qb8UCQf.png

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I finally got around to trying out the new BaC tac squad and decided to compare it against some of the FW resin bits I have from a Red Scorpions upgrade kit.

 

http://i.imgur.com/OvtA9xD.png

 

Pretty good, but there's been something about the plastic Mk IV helmet that's bothered me and I could never figure out what it was - why it looked so different from the resin one - until I had them side by side.

 

http://i.imgur.com/7suIFUK.png

 

The plastic one has a good bit less depth to it than the resin.

 

I think I've also thrown in the towel on the Iron Hands idea. The paint job I had in mind, while it probably would have looked great on something like a vehicle, didn't work out how I was wanting on a marine figure. So, with the first place choice now disqualified, the winner goes to...

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/ngqOOTn.png

 

Besides, the Dusk Raiders were constantly whispering from the back of my mind and would have won out eventually, I'm sure.

 

On that subject, I happened across a figure originally destined to be an Imperial Fist and I think he will now become a proud member of the XIV Legion (Terran).

 

http://i.imgur.com/zPlApIX.png

 

 

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Flint... gotcha. :wink:

 

Hydra - I think from the perspective of telling a story, I think the Dusk Raiders idea will work out better anyway, but not to worry, other Legions will most definitely make appearances.

 

And now we have the traditional Mixing of the Marks!

 

http://i.imgur.com/lyIxt96.png

 

None of those flimsy, fragile Tigrus bolters for my guys! No sir, no Dusk Raider worth his salt would be caught dead with a bolter that couldn't bash in the skull of a xenos or traitor marine and still maintain its expected levels of performance.

Edited by Brother Chaplain Kage
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