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@Soric - You got me. I'm pretty much blatantly ripping off the Horus pose, though the mace was planned and purchased long before I ever settled on a pose. I was wondering if anyone would mention it. :thumbsup:

 

@Augs - I know not everyone is crazy about the balteus, and I wasn't even sure the first night, but it's grown on me and it will be staying as it is. That said, I still appreciate the feedback from everyone who comments, as I know for a fact it's helped me make better models over the course of this thread. :D

Quick question for you, Kage: you mix in a small amount of milliput into your GS, don't you? Or is that someone else?

 

Also, apologies for asking a question that I remember having already asked. I can't find where it was or what the answer was :sweat:

Quick question for you, Kage: you mix in a small amount of milliput into your GS, don't you? Or is that someone else?

 

Also, apologies for asking a question that I remember having already asked. I can't find where it was or what the answer was :sweat:

I use a miliput/green stuff mix for a lot of my sculpting. Its not as good on organic shapes like fur but for things that need to be straighter and crisp it's better imo. Also dries stronger in my experience so I've used it on lots of capes etc.

I've tried mixing miliput with GS and I didn't care for it. It's extremely slick and I had trouble getting it to stick to the model, as well as drying as hard as a rock, which can be problematic if you don't like the end result of the sculpting and want to remove it and try again. Which I do... all the time.

I've tried mixing miliput with GS and I didn't care for it. It's extremely slick and I had trouble getting it to stick to the model, as well as drying as hard as a rock, which can be problematic if you don't like the end result of the sculpting and want to remove it and try again. Which I do... all the time.

That's fair enough,I normally use 1/4 to 1/3 milliput because i find it can go funky using more than that. I often end up ripping bits off and touch wood have been fine with it coming away from resin or plastic. Only issue I've had is remnants left on greenstuff but then I sand/scrape them back.

I've tried mixing miliput with GS and I didn't care for it. It's extremely slick and I had trouble getting it to stick to the model, as well as drying as hard as a rock, which can be problematic if you don't like the end result of the sculpting and want to remove it and try again. Which I do... all the time.

I had the same experience mixing milliput with gs. Didn't like the results. I keep meaning to order some pro create to try though.

I've tried mixing miliput with GS and I didn't care for it. It's extremely slick and I had trouble getting it to stick to the model, as well as drying as hard as a rock, which can be problematic if you don't like the end result of the sculpting and want to remove it and try again. Which I do... all the time.

Personally, I've had great success with a 50/50 GS/milliput mix - however, I am using the yellow/grey milliput now, not the finer white - occasionally I get a crumbly mix with the yellow/grey, but the white seemed to crumble all the time!

I don't have sticking problems but you have to smear it on without lubricant first - any lube (vaso or water) between the mix and the plastic any the mix just slides off.

It does dry hard, but I like that (mostly) because I do a lot if post-sculpting like sanding and scribing.

Haven't tried pro-create.

 

Love the new Marine btw - your sculpting is exceptional.

 

Happy New Year all!

Edited by lamby

Lamby, iirc I was using superfine white milliput at a 50/50 ratio, and just mixing it up and trying to stick it on the model with no lubricant and it was still like teflon. Two of the three tests I did with it, I had to secure it to the model with a dot of superglue first, and the only reason I didn't have to do it on the third was because I was able to anchor it by stuffing some of it in a gap left by sawing and re-pinning a limb.

Managed to get a little work done the last few days.

 

http://i.imgur.com/LxDKueh.png

 

I didn't realize until I put the shield back on him to take this picture that the raptor icon on his left shin probably won't be all that visible. D'oh!

Fantastic work once again. To me it's the hidden details that make a model a thing of beauty.

The hidden details draw the viewer into the model if the sculptor goes to all that effort for this hidden detail what else has he hidden.

Can't wait to see more.

I agree with Jokaero, those little details that are hidden away make the model, little pieces that your find as you admire it. Also it's not all that hidden, it's not like you spent ages sculpting a symbol only to place a bolter covering it up completely like I once did. Edited by The Hydra

Also it's not all that hidden, it's not like you spent ages sculpting a symbol only to place a bolter covering it up completely like I once did.

Are we not all a member of that club. And for some reason we never back down and use the torso anyways ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

The job has kept me busy with more mandatory overtime, but I have been working on my Venator here and there, but I'm not ready to show the progress just yet.

 

A couple days ago I had something show up on my doorstep.

 

http://i.imgur.com/t94eVGD.png

 

(It's a Fire Raptor if you don't recognize it.)

 

In those two days, I've been trying to straighten out some of the parts, these two fuselage pieces in particular. I thought I'd done a good job of it until I started dry fitting and realized I was still way off, and I'm beginning to understand the build reputation these things have.

The accident wasn't as bad as I initially thought, but this thing really is a nightmare. It's not going well and I'm not happy at all with its current state.

 

http://i.imgur.com/IkhVMwn.png

 

The wings and rear upper fuselage thing aren't attached yet.

You should never use any sort of greenstuff for gap filling; it's terrible for that sort of thing. If you're filling a gap to blend it with an armor plate, fur, scales, or something like that, it's different, but automotive filler putty (Bondo), or other stuff like Milliput, or Tamiya filler putty should be used for things like this.

Edited by Brother Chaplain Kage

I salute you for building a Fire Raptor. I have been wanting one but after building a Storm Eagle to the best of my abilities (fueled by tears) I am hesitant to do so. However, seeing all of you other work I think you will bang out this puppy without a hitch.

 

I also need to find some of this Tamiya Filler putty as I had tried to do some gap filling on my flyer with GS but I didn't like it.

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