++ AUGUSTUS b'RAASS ++ pre-heresy BRASS SCORPION p.247

[DuskRaider]

Aye, it works well. It's REALLY glossy however (obviously it's supposed to look like fresh blood), so I'd suggest a wash of watered down Carrosburg Crimson or whatever. Here's a couple examples, if I'm thread jacking I'll remove them.

 

Edit: it's worth mentioning that I did these with a black primer, basecoat of Leadbelcher, and a drybrush of Runefang Silver. After that, between 3 and 5 thinned coats of Blood for the Blood God effect were applied, after which they received a thinned down wash of Baal Red (or Carrosburg Red as its called now) to bring down the gloss.

 

Hidden Content

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/DuskRaiderXIV/Mobile%20Uploads/20160313_010008_zpso5ejddhr.jpg

Hidden Content

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/DuskRaiderXIV/IMAG0966_zpswgyzehlp.jpg

Hidden Content

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/DuskRaiderXIV/IMAG0962_zpsvbjhixgu.jpg

Edited March 18, 2016 by DuskRaider

[Teetengee]

Would Bloodtreacleletters be out of the question? I think the high gloss might look cool on them.

[Slips]

I recently used Untiluted but carefully applied BFTBG as a red color for a mini:

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a598/stampeeder/2016-02-04%2000.25.56_zpsrpdbfe5u.jpg

 

So that might give you an idea of what to expect.

Edited March 18, 2016 by Slipstreams

[Soldier of Dorn]

 

@ The Psycho: Dude! What an awesome read was that! Thanks! Also:

 

I, Augustus b'Raass, accept the challenge laid before me by The Psycho to build and paint an army of Khorne Daemonkin for this year's E Tenebrae Lux event. In return, He shall also build and paint an army of Khorne Daemonkin for E Tenebrae Lux. [insert interesting text| Ngggghh... huff huff... hnngghhh... BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!!!! SKULLS FOR THE SKULL THRONE!!!!... hnngggh, hngggh.... huff huff.... DEATH TO THE FALSE EMPEROR!!!!!........  [/insert interesting text| and thus reap a great tally for the Lord of Skulls!

 

 

Well, this should be fun. I'll PM you later with some... ideas I have.

 

 

Sorry to hear the original scheme didn't quite work out, but glad that you've found some alternatives.

[Augustus b'Raass]

@ DuskRaider: Thanks for the tip. I would indeed appreciate it if you put your pictures in hidden brackets. [*hidden] pics here [*/hidden], but without the *. :tu:

 

@ Slipstreams: Looks interesting. Thanks for putting the pics betwee hidden brackets.

 

@ Teetengee: HAha, sure. If you lick it. ;)

 

@ The Pycho: Awaiting your PM with glee, buddy! :)

 

 

Edited March 18, 2016 by Augustus b'Raass

[Flint13]

I can totally back up the Ghost inks.

 

The fresh blood is what I used for my word bearers, and it's a dream to work with compared to the Tamiya clear. I even did a little tute on it ^_^

 

The trick I've found to using the clear is to thin it down to about 50/50 with Tamiya acrylic thinner and use 3 suuuuuper thin coats wherever you think one would do. But the ghost inks take 90% of that paint in the ass out of the equation and are approximately 800x more accepting of user error.

[Augustus b'Raass]

FANTASTIC TANK TACTICS

 based on a tale of Augustus' latest tournament exploits 

 

Hi team! Gather round, and let Uncle Auggie tell you about his first tournament with his brand new Imperial Fists army. All good? Right! So last Saturday saw me playing my 1250 points of IFs in a tournament at GW Amsterdam South. I had good hopes of finishing in the top three, but ultimately juuuuuust failed. I did learn a lot though, and even learned a sneaky tactic.

 

The games had the following custom rules:

-All boards were 4'x4'. 

-1st round: Cleanse and Control, plus 1 extra objective in the middle of enemy deployment zone, worth three VPs if you could bring it back to your own DZ. Also, each objective held at end of game is worth 1VP.

-2nd Round: Table quarters. Choose one table quarter as you DZ. Opponent gets other. No setting up closer than 12" from the table centre. Extra objective in centre. Player controlling that objective at end of turn gets 3VPs. Also each table quarter controlled (one friendly unbroken unit completely in TQ and none of the opponent) at end of game is 1VP.

-3d round: Cleanse and Control, plus each VP held at end of game is worth 2VP

 

Scoring was done in the following way:

-Gaming points - Win: 3pts. Draw (2 or less VP difference): 1pt. Loss: 0 pt. Each game also gave +1pt for a wipe out and +1 pt for a massacre (winning by 15 or more point difference).

-Tournament points - The following points were added to your gaming points after the tournament: 1pt for being prepared (rulebook, relevant codices, tape measure, objectives, dice, templates), 1pt for a completely based, painted and WYSIWYG army, and each player could give 1pt to one of his opponents for sportsmanship.

 

My results (Sorry, no pictures!   My phone died at the beginning of the day!)

-1st game against an Eldar jetbike spam list. A tense game which I dominated in the first half, but when his bikes came on he got back seriously, wiping out one of mine squad with each of his each turn. I lost this game because we both forgot/didn't read the rules about the extra 1vp for controlled objectives at the end of the game, and he happened to be on four of them because of his objective draws! Result was (without the objectives it would've been 9-11 so a draw) but with the four objectives he was on and the two I was on it was a score of 11-14, so 0 points for me. Great game though!

-2nd game against a Tau Battlesuit spam list, including two riptides. One riptide was dead by the end of turn one, and I managed to tank shock his commander and a unit of battlesuits, both off the table.  I had him wiped out by turn four, controlled all table quarters and the central objective. The result was 21-2, plus a wipe out, so 5 points for me. The lost game earlier saw me against a somewhat weaker opponent, so yeah...

-3d game against a super-original Necron Decurion Detachment with two units of six wraiths. I tank shocked both of the Wraith units to death in turn two, after which it was down-hill for him. He did manage to score a lot of objectives though! The result was 23-19, so 3 points for me. A close, and exciting game, in which we both had great fun!

 

In the end, The winner of the tournament had 14 points (He had a massive cheese list, which included a non-scattering Tantalus with a unit of wraithguard with D-scythes, the template kind. And it wasn't even his army, nor had he designed the list himself.  Oh well... ). The runner up with 13 points was the guy I lost to in the first round. And number three with 11 points (another Eldar jetbike spam list) had lost to #1. I too had 11 points, but had scored 55 VPs overall, while #3 had 59 VPs - so I came in fourth. There's a good chance I might have gotten into the last three positions if I'd remembered the 1vp-per-objective-in-the-end-condition of the first game! DOH!  

 

In the end, we all had fun, it was a great day and an awesome tournament. I'll definitely be bringing this list again.

 

And now it´s time for some 

FANTASTIC TANK TACTICS

 

First off, let me repeat my Gladius Strike Force list:

 

First Demi Company

-bare bones captain

-3x 5-man tac squad with lascannon

-1x 5-man dev squad with 2 lascannons

-multi melta attack bike

-4x free Razorback with heavy bolter

Second Demi Company

-bare bones chaplain

-1x 5-man tac squad with lascannon

-1x 5-man tac squad with missile launcher

-1x 5-man tac squad with missile launcher with flakk missiles

-1x 5-man dev squad with 2 missile launchers with flakk missiles

-heavy bolter attack bike

-4x free Razorback with heavy bolter

10th Company Task Force

-3x 5-man scout squad with missile launcher

 

A picture of the army:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/WP_20160213_014_zps4xtxdooo.jpg

 

OK, so you might have noticed -or there's something wrong with your eyes- there's a lot of tanks. Free tanks to boot, but that's not the point. My hobby buddy Ruben advised me to look up the tank shock rules before the tournament. I read them and I read them well. And boy did it help. 

 

You see, Tank Shock allows you to wipe out entire squads without any saves of any kind. The relevant rules are  found on page 92 (Tank Shock) and on page 58 (Trapped!). The way I employ use these rules to my advantage are as follows:

 

I park my tanks in between units in my gun line. As I'm playing on a 4'x4' table, this is actually the only way to deploiy everything without interfering with your own lines of sight. The army relies heavily (solely) on shooting and overwhelming firepower. On their own, the quads are all but defenseless against dedicated assault units. This works to my advantage.  

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/Tank%20Shock%201_zps1job1fvd.jpg

 

As soon as a squad is assaulted, it usually gets destroyed, or flees because I've lost by so many wounds. It'll consolidate, and then there's a dedicated assault squad right in front of my little tanks:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/Tank%20Shock%202_zpskkvg2phr.jpg

 

What I do next, is wrap the units in the vicinity around the enemy assault squad. Basically I create a little box, making sure there's enough room for the rhino to fit into the box with 1" between my men and where the rhino will end up.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/Tank%20Shock%203_zps132bjqss.jpg

 

 

Next, I turn the rhino so that it can drive in a straight line into the box, and move. VROOOM!

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/Tank%20Shock%204_zpsttnobh17.jpg

 

The unit being tank shocked may then make one automatically hitting shooting or assault attack with one model. If that stuns, immobilizes or destroys the vehicle, the tank shock stops in base contact with the attacking model. So all models that are run over before the tank comes into contact with the Death or Glory dude, are normally tank shocked. The entire unit being tank shocked must then make a morale check. And here we come to the most important part. The morale check will yield two different scenario's:

1. If the unit being tank shock unit fails its morale check, it falls back. But wait! It cannot fall back because it's Trapped! The unit is destroyed.

2. If the unit being tank shock unit passes its morale check, it lets the tank move through as if it was not there, and all models that end up under the tank when it reaches its final destination, move out of the way by the shortest distance, leaving at least 1`between them and the vehicle. But wait! There´s no room for them, as there are enemy units all around the tank now. All models that are trapped (lower case) in this manner, are removed from play with no saves allowed. Crunch!

Either result sees the unit destroyed. Only Jetbikes, Jump and Jet Pack units will survive a failed morale check, as they can hop over the units. But then there's a broken unit right in the open, ready to be shot at by everyone.

 

Now, you might say something to the effect of "But Augustus, that is highly situational!". To that I say "perhaps, but I used this method in five times, in two out of three games. It killed a total of five units, at critical times in each game. (two Necron Wraiths, one unit of Scarabs, a Tau commander in a battle suit, and unit of battlesuits). It certainly won me the last game against the necrons.

 

The thing about tank shock is that it's one of the least known rules of the game, and people don't generally take it into account in their tactics. This is a great advantage, as you can practically lure your opponent into position. 

 

Alright chaps and chappettes, I hope you enjoyed this little update. Have fun!

Edited March 25, 2016 by Augustus b'Raass

[Quixus]

It is not really new and you cannot move first and then perform a tank shock:

When moving a vehicle with the Tank type, the player can declare that it is going to attempt to Tank Shock or Ram instead of moving normally.

 

[Pearson73]

Sounds like some fun games and your force looks great all together.

[Augustus b'Raass]

@ Quixus: I know the tactic isn't new  It is not well-known, however, nor have I ever seen it explained in the context of a razorback-spam Gladius Strike Force list. My intent was to do just that. :) You're right about the tank's movement, I've edited the post accordingly. :tu:

 

@Pearson73: Cheers buddy!

[MrBear]

Sounds like a fun tournament buddy! Too bad that you didn't finish in the top but there's always a few things one forgets in those situations. I hope that it wasn't  Sgt. Bernad Jakin and his squad who wasn't up to the task though, I wouldn't like to start the weekend with entering the Pain Glove. 

Edited March 25, 2016 by MrBear

[Teetengee]

I love tank shock. My very first game with my own models (way back in 3rd ed) I used a similar strategy for the same effect. Glorious.

[GhostMalone]

Buddy I love the run through, I figured out how to make my militia grenadiers so much more effective

[Knight of the Raven]

Sneaky sneaky tank shock trick

Are you sure you're not a shadow captain disguised as an Imperial Fist?

[sockwithaticket]

Man that's a lot of Razorbacks, force looks great all together like that and congrats on doing so well at the tourney (just outside the top 3 seems pretty good to me) with a fairly novel tactic going well. I love the idea of tank shock, used to try it all the time when I first got into the hobby and was gaming around 3rd ed.

[Augustus b'Raass]

I made another -far more successful - attempt at painting red. I took a lot of advice from you guys, and bought not only all FW reds, but also all clear ghost tints from Miniaire. I also bought the Mephiston spray paint from GW, although I quickly regretted that. 

 

I methodically set to work on strips of plasticard, which I coated GW Mephiston Red, AP Red, GW Chaos Black and GW Corax White. I then tried a plethora of techniques, ranging from straigh-out-a-the-pot to mixing, as well as the candy technique using the Minitaire and FW candy paints. I numbered each and wrote them all down for future reference Here's what I had in the end:

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsqzjev6ku.jpg

 

This was a learning experience for me for sure. I've found that whatever recipe you use from forge world - using the airbrush technique - it'll come out as looking quite pastel-like in colour. I would appreciate any advise on this, because I am at a loss how to do a proper deep red using only GW paints.

 

Anyway.

 

I did start off with another Khorne Berzerker. I was quite satisfied with the colours and especially the paint scheme. Mind you, I was a bit sloppy with everything, as I was trying to see if I could get the right red to work with the rest of the scheme. I might go a little brighter red on the next one, but we'll see.

 

What do you think?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zps54r9lna2.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsrqvxvbhn.jpg
 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsmkvqkq11.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsmpdtxusx.jpg

 

 

Replies:

@ Mrbear: Top 25%, as it was a 16 man tournament. I believe Jakin pulled through in all games ;)

 

@ Teetengee: Glorious indeed. I can't remember the rules for 3d edition tank shock, but in this one I love 'm. ;)

 

@ Kurama: Glad you like it! And let me know how it goes :)

 

@ Knight of the Raven: Yup. Pretty sure. How so? Killign things with tank shock doesn't quite strike me a sneaky Raven Guard tactic...

 

@ sockwithaticket: Ha! you should talk to Teetengee!

[KrautScientist]

Buddy, I hate to be that guy, but the new 'zerker just seems to lack in colour contrast a bit, if you ask me: I think the red is quite a bit too dark brown for my taste, and the different colours seem to blend together too much. In all fairness, though, the picture itself seems to be slightly desaturated, so maybe the red is better when seen firsthand. But if it's a choice between this or your earlier World Eaters recipe (not the one with the Clear Red, mind you, the one before that), I think your earlier models were much cooler, with a richer red to boot.Sorry :(

 

I'll also come out and say it: I am a bit disappointed that you won't be painting these as World Eaters, by the look of it ;)

[Dagoth Ur]

Gotta agree with Krautscientist. While the paintjob is neat and beautiful, I think the model lacks contrast but I don't know how to add some more...
Anyways, you asked for techniques for painting red. I've posted a Blood Angels tutorial in my thread, maybe it can be of use to you.
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319941-amidst-brethren-we-bleed-amidst-ashes-we-prevail/
The tutorial itself is on page two. Now, if you don't feel comfortable with drybrushing your red, my moritat-prime in the very same thread has been airbrushed with GW Airbrush colours.
Black undercoat, a coat of Airbrush Khorne Red and a dab of black, zenithal highlight with Mephiston red, last highlight with 1:1 mix of Mephiston red and Wazdakka Red. The washing and weathering process is same otherwise.

Hope it helps

[oldschoolsavant]

I think the fact that the reds are at the end of the test cards is an issue - surely they should be in the middle ?

 

Shade - Base - Highlight, no ? I dunno (being no great painter who rarely highlights) but it seems wrong.

[Dragonlover]

I like the more muted look on the berzerker. Feels like it would transfer equally well to vehicles as well.

 

Dragonlover

[Augustus b'Raass]

Buddy, I hate to be that guy, but the new 'zerker just seems to lack in colour contrast a bit, if you ask me: I think the red is quite a bit too dark brown for my taste, and the different colours seem to blend together too much. In all fairness, though, the picture itself seems to be slightly desaturated, so maybe the red is better when seen firsthand. But if it's a choice between this or your earlier World Eaters recipe (not the one with the Clear Red, mind you, the one before that), I think your earlier models were much cooler, with a richer red to boot.Sorry

 

I'll also come out and say it: I am a bit disappointed that you won't be painting these as World Eaters, by the look of it

Precisely because you are 'that guy' is why I always appreciate your feedback. you're always very constructive, and you are one of those Frater whose feedback I always take into good consideration. So thanks! On to the feedback itself: the picture is very desaturated. I was in a bit of a hurry today (had to leave to paint easter eggs at a friend's place (you will not believe what we did)) and will take new ones tomorrow. Suffice it to say the red is in actuality brighter than it looks in the above pictures. But still I agree it could be brighter. That being said I think we just have a different taste in the red of a Khornate army. You're more of the Red Period bright red taste. I'm shooting for a deep, almost crimson colour. 

 

Also: what made you think these aren't World Eaters? They are. Very much so. They belong to a World Eater warband that calls itself the wrath and they adorn their armour in black to signify their hatred of the Imperium, their extremities in red to portray their devotion to Khorne, and their helmets and weapons in bone to show their dedication to bringing death to their enemies in His name. Remember: there are plenty regiments in your and my country that are hundreds of years old. hell, there are even active regiments in young countries like the US that are over a century old. Look at the difference between their colours then and now. Then think of what a hundred times that time can mean to an army's colours. Don't worry: these will be World Eaters.

 

Gotta agree with Krautscientist. While the paintjob is neat and beautiful, I think the model lacks contrast but I don't know how to add some more...

Anyways, you asked for techniques for painting red. I've posted a Blood Angels tutorial in my thread, maybe it can be of use to you.

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319941-amidst-brethren-we-bleed-amidst-ashes-we-prevail/

The tutorial itself is on page two. Now, if you don't feel comfortable with drybrushing your red, my moritat-prime in the very same thread has been airbrushed with GW Airbrush colours.

Black undercoat, a coat of Airbrush Khorne Red and a dab of black, zenithal highlight with Mephiston red, last highlight with 1:1 mix of Mephiston red and Wazdakka Red. The washing and weathering process is same otherwise.

 

Hope it helps

Thanks for the help buddy! However Blood Angels have a brightness to them that I just don't fancy. I'm trying to get a deep, dark red. Blood Angels red is - sorry - for fancy space vampires. ;)

 

I think the fact that the reds are at the end of the test cards is an issue - surely they should be in the middle ? Shade - Base - Highlight, no ? I dunno (being no great painter who rarely highlights) but it seems wrong.

Cheers. Highlighting red with anything lighter than red will almost always end up making the whole surface look either pink, yellow or orange. The thing with red is to highlight with the colour you're aiming for. At least when you're doing traditional colour buildup. The base colour should be darker. It's exactly the reason why I and many other painters have such difficulty getting the red they aim for. I also don't use washes for base colours, but rather aim for an airbrushable technique for them.

 

EDIT: Dragonlover ninja'd me. 

I like the more muted look on the berzerker. Feels like it would transfer equally well to vehicles as well.

 

Dragonlover

Thanks buddy! Yeah - the thing with red is it has to work both on small rounded surfaces and on large flat large surfaces. I hope this will be achievable with the colour I got.

Edited March 28, 2016 by Augustus b'Raass

[Doctor Perils]

I have to admit, I agree with the guys that the Red is a tiny bit too dark, and you may have made the legs a bit too dusty.

 

I'm also not 100% on the bone colour. I'd make that a bit lighter, and liberally add blood splatter.

[Soldier of Dorn]

 

This was a learning experience for me for sure. I've found that whatever recipe you use from forge world - using the airbrush technique - it'll come out as looking quite pastel-like in colour. I would appreciate any advise on this, because I am at a loss how to do a proper deep red using only GW paints.

 

I feel ya man. The best dark red I've managed looks something like this, but the quality might have less to do with the paints and more with my low skill level at painting :P I'm thinking that using the Bloodletter glaze might work wonders, but I haven't actually tried it yet.

 

Hidden Content

http://i.imgur.com/Icn6Q3P.jpg

 

(he's also not complete yet, so... yeah.)

 

I think the specific problem with your test model isn't so much the red itself, as it's rather a pretty shade (IMHO), but the fact that the model lacks contrast between all the colors. The red has very little contrast against the black, and the bone is a wee bit too similar to the gold. In essence, there's really not any single color that pops on the model, and it looks a bit muddy. Unfortunately, I don't really know what you could do to change this while preserving the color scheme's overall dark theme, but I'm certain other people would have tips.

 

I think my favorite of your test strips is the third one from the right in the bottom row. It really appeals to me quite a lot. What's the recipe?

[Augustus b'Raass]

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I have to admit I'm a bit surprised at the quite strong opinions. I don't mind them (!), I'm just surprised by them, as the mini doesn;t look perfect, but still quite good in my opinion. So I made some different pictures, because I have a feeling the previous pics where a bit washed out. 

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsaeopjk3n.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zps2rnkr00v.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpsqhtya2xz.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/World%20Eaters/temporary_zpse6u1mfzr.jpg

 

I'll probably be using WE transfers (the ones on the 'new' Chaos Vehicle sheet) on their right shoulder. This transfer has blue and green in them, to add contrast. In addition, I think I'll be using the FW Dark Sand or FW Bone Dust...

 

Are opinions changed or do you guys still think the colours don't contrast enough. I'm already committed to a brighter red (ie more white highlights below the candy). Also, I might change the base's colours to make it look more like this: 

Hidden Content

 

Replies:

 

@ The Psycho: Funnily enough the recipe I used for this guy ^^ is the third from the left in the bottow row.... the third from the right is the same, but without a satin varnish... What do you think of him now - in the pictures with more contrast?

 

@ Lord Thorn: How about this ^^ enough contrast or not? And would you say the bone should be whiter?

Edited March 29, 2016 by Augustus b'Raass

[Atia]

What do I think? GW really should release new plastic Berzerkerz ....  

 

Besides that, love the painting the boney helmet fits very well  

Edited March 29, 2016 by Atia