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Blackadder's Landkreuzer P500; Die Wühlmaus


Blackadder

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Thanks for the reply........

 

I have to admit the images above you linked to show a much better version of GW Superheavy than is usually presented, is that a kit or kitbash?

As I'd mentioned, the fuel tanks/exhausts are from Blood & Skulls Industries

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-2-/251088476519 Fuel tanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tank-Engine-/251781374828 Exhaust stacks

They're a very good replacement for the original fuel tanks/exhaust, though they come in resin and I suggest using brass rod to pin the pipes to the main block of the exhaust thingamabob.

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Now I see the aux fuel tanks, much better looking than the four small tanks that come with the plastic kit. 

 

Still I've had some luck with producing drum aux fuel tanks for my various scratch Baneblades so I'll just make them of PVC tubing instead of buying them; thanks for the link to the great images.

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Prognosis Positive:

 

Okay I can with good consciousness put this aside for a while and resume the Reaver.

 

All the treads are completed with seven left over no less that I can utilize for spares including two skull treads.

 

In this first series of photos we'll do a size comparison of the Land Kreuzer P500 and the standard Baneblade tracks

 


http://i.imgur.com/KEbgmU8l.jpg

 

The track is overwhelmingly larger and I hope I haven't diminished the Baneblade too much anymore than the Maus diminished the King Tiger

 


http://i.imgur.com/stBOYuSl.jpg

 

Even with the Kreuzer in the background it is still huge compared to the dainty Baneblade track.

 


http://i.imgur.com/w8pFrE7l.jpg

 

Later, the mistakes........

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Thanks for the link, I'd not seen that rendering before.

 

That tank looks half again larger than the one I am building probably a Ratte P1000 :) yeah one of those was in the drawing boards as well. Seems like the whole of the Wehrmacht was geared to second-guessing Warhammer 40K.

 

http://static.keptelenseg.hu/p/d109569fe5e21c2886079467c1c462f5.jpg

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Kattywompus:

 

Before I put this aside in favor of the Reaver project I think it prudent to present the model as it is at the moment; for nothing less than a record of the mistakes and comparison when the rebuild is effected.

 


http://i.imgur.com/bXJba5yl.jpg

 

I've run into a major structural anomaly that will have to be remedied before I proceed; so rather than subject my readers to the travails of rebuilding I'll work on this in the background until the retracing is completed.

 


[http://i.imgur.com/wTpnsLHl.jpg

 

It started when I first installed the tread assemblies; all looked good from the side elevated view.

 


http://i.imgur.com/xeI2wZgl.jpg

 

and the side eye level view.

 


http://i.imgur.com/E4WF6Ixl.jpg

 

The front eye level is within acceptable limits although the left tread needs to be brought perpendicular.

 

It's only with the rear view that the grievous anomalies manifest..........

 


http://i.imgur.com/6fRNfnBl.jpg

 

The engine compartment is badly askew and the right tread has a bad twist that did not reveal itself on the aligning table for some reason perhaps because there is no upper track run.

 

Also the left tread needs to be brought perpendicular as with the front which is of minor consideration.

 

All of which gives value to the use of photography to review your work because looking at the model itself the eye tends to compensate for the indiscretions.

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It's very true that the camera picks up many things my eye does not. I have always loved getting to see really hi-res pics of other people's models. It wasn't until I started taking my own and zooming way in that I began to deeply respect painters and modelers who are brave enough to show their work in this way. So many table-top ready paint jobs, even really solid ones, quickly break down under that scrutiny. As for scratch-builds, I'm sure it's the same way. What looks great from a foot or two away starts to look very DIY when examined up close.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Treads Redressed:

 

When last we saw the unfortunate Landkreuzer the treads were badly warped and canted askew. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/qDVMc8Vl.jpg

 

I addressed the problem last night with satisfactory results. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/J2A2i1Yl.jpg

 

So satisfactory in point of fact that I shall have to go back to my FW Baneblades and see if I can apply the same fix to them as well.

 

Now all that needs be done is to true up the engine compartment

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Utilizing a razor saw I separated the rear links from the bottom run. I then pried the bottom tread run from the bogies.........

 

Checking the bogie alignment I found they were canted slightly outboard so I removed the offending bogies and re-glued them using strips of battening and clamps to insure alignment; we're talking only a degree or two but it was enough to compound the error over the six inch run giving a pronounced twist to the tread. 

 

Once dried and correct I re-installed the bottom tread run and clamped square with the upper mount block which I knew to be true in squareness.

 

I then dry fit the assembly into the tread well and shimmed to 'true' fore to aft.

 

I glued the aft two bogie wheels to the bottom run tread and track block and insured alignment with the rear of the track well and allowed to dry.

 

I then squared the rear links with the drive sprocket by cutting the glue seam and shimming slightly to square.

 

I installed the rear drive sprocket assembly whil the track block assembly was still in the track well, tack glued and allowed to dry overnight.

 

This morning I removed the dried track assembly and glued in fillets to reinforce the tack gluing with the 'above imaged' result.

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Your work continues to impress!

 

I just went back and looked at all the work you put into the tracks. Given all the work you put in, I can see why you'd want to square up the tracks. At the same time, I would be horrified to take something hand made apart for fear it would break.

 

Are you deliberately working your way up the model for adding detail? Is this generally advisable? 

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I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by "Working your way up the model for adding detail" , What I am attempting to do is turn this rather pitiful specimen into a full blown Lucius Baneblade style Super- superheavy tank.

 

Truing the Engine Compartment:

 
I first removed the styrene sheathing for the ribbon cartridge frame. When I first built this frame years ago I was not as practiced as I am now and discrepancies weren't as bothersome/
 
These days I am more particular.  
 
Using the naked utility knife blade as a draw plane I shave down the cartridge casing alternating between sanding and drawplaning to remove the millimeter or so extra material to true up the top deck.
 
http://i.imgur.com/NKsrFiYl.jpg
 
Once the frame top is true I'll apply a sheet of 0.020 styrene to the shaved frame and proceed to re-frame the beveled panels on the side.
 
http://i.imgur.com/xHAECIJl.jpg
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The Mathematical Precision:

 

There is something extremely satisfying about the faceted structure of the Lucius Pattern vehicles to my mind's eye. Something that is lacking in the Mars versions....

 

The image below with it's crisp, no nonsense angles just bespeak pent up strength even in its undetailed state.

 


http://i.imgur.com/E92AphEl.jpg

 

The engine compartment has shaped up rather well from it's previous distorted construction being now less than a fraction of a millimeter out of true.

 


http://i.imgur.com/MLRxP2Cl.jpg

 

It's irksome that the image below came out fuzzy......... 

 


http://i.imgur.com/9eDDZ54l.jpg

 

Next, the turret..........

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  • 3 months later...
Forced Summer Hiatus

 

After being incapacitated for most of the Summer I'm back with a bit of an update on the Landkreuzer

 


http://i.imgur.com/34RfS57l.jpg

 

The superimposed turret is only for scale to demonstrate the size of the Landkreuzer vis-à-vis the standard resin Baneblade turret. The model will not actually have an aux Baneblade armament (I don't think)...........

 


http://i.imgur.com/bCRNGhkl.jpg

 

Of course my camera is still acting up so after one decent image the rest are blurry for some reason but no matter as it is just to show the overall size more than the detail.

 


http://i.imgur.com/MGmTlKdl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/9Xl7oHkl.jpg

 

So if I can manage to keep my heart rate above 30 BPM and my blood pressure above 70 over 40 I'm hoping to be updating all my threads. :)

 

More to follow...........
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Time To Start Detailing:

 

With the last major component completed it's time to start applying the details and the first order of business is the twin main cannon which is the raison d'être of the Storm Hammer/ Landkreuzer P500.

 


http://i.imgur.com/dRd1pIkl.jpg

 

I started with the gun mount shield moulding the curve overnight by wrapping the 0.020 inch thick sheet plastic around a pen barrel and clamping. The result is a permanently curved panel of plastic ready to be re-enforced with laminated curved stiffeners 0.020 by 0.25 inch strips.

 


http://i.imgur.com/6t3Z5Ghl.jpg

 

While applying the strips I continually re-bent the sheet plastic in excess of the actual curve I require so the shield will maintain it's malleability throughout the manufacture. This will give the smoothly graded curve reminiscent of the Lucius Baneblade gun shield.

 


http://i.imgur.com/i7TxSdOl.jpg

 

I opted for a twin cannon turret instead of two single gun turrets which always appeared too clumsy to me. also a single pair of sponsons albeit with more powerful weapons seems a better way to go..... 

 

http://i.imgur.com/m04T8nw.jpg

 

In this I am departing from the conventional Storm Hammer. 

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Turret Hatch Ring:

 

One feature I covet is the FW design for the raised turret hatch. This is a relatively easy component to duplicate and looks so good compared to just plunking a hatch down on the barren hull armour.

 

I started by cutting the three circles in various thicknesses of styrene The base ring being 0.030" the upper ring 0.040" and the top ring with the rivets 0.020".

 


http://i.imgur.com/RgItgLOl.jpg

 

I used the arc compass technique to square the lines on the top plate for the placement of the rivets and subsequently to find for the ribs on the bottom plate.

 


http://i.imgur.com/QWaVSWDl.jpg

 

I installed a crude raised inner ring for a butt plate for the ribs. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/GZsM0Dxl.jpg

 

The Mantlet for the main cannon is ostensibly done except for the gun mount lugs and the fine detail.

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Embarrassing:

 

I should be ashamed to post this as an update but I was busy with other pursuits this week.

 

On the plus side I did manage to make the cryptic mechanical devices to go on the turret top and accomplish some of the wiring.

 


http://i.imgur.com/rQ31fTfl.jpg

 

Things should go a lot faster now that those are made.

 


http://i.imgur.com/sIgKWIkl.jpg

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Thanks,

 

Lawn Care Flags:
 
Suddenly they are everywhere and a bloody(by our lady) nuisance but here's a tip to recycle some of the d*mned things:  
 
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71RgxzzCwsL._SX425_.jpg
 
The plastic staffed ones have an eighth inch staff/ 3,0 mm (approximately)and are extremely flexible and adequate for bundles of conduit whathaveyou. Certainly cheaper than four bucks a pop at your local hobby shop for similar Evergreen/Plastruct rods. Plus they are plastic glue compatible.
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Turrets Syndrome 

 

Damn me! I like how this has turned out. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/cfJZWwnl.jpg

 

It's a pity I put off building this tank for so long but I feared the work was beyond my capabilities. I'm happy to say that it appears satisfactory so far.

 

Detailing the turret as just a larger Baneblade seems to be adequate; it just requires plugging away at the detail bits until done. (Well Duh! Blackadder)

 


http://i.imgur.com/zGrpT4Vl.jpg

 

The rear view shows that I still need to find an Aquila.

 


http://i.imgur.com/2Mkwpb1l.jpg

 

The right side is rather plain compared to the busy left side.

 


http://i.imgur.com/5R68kaPl.jpg

 

The front elevation reveals the lack of the business raison d'etre of this behemoth. That is to follow hopefully this weekend. 

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a bit off topic but got the feeling you might know BA.

 

do you know what the chaos mars pattern warhound have under its toes? chaos symbol or same as loyalist warhound?

 

 

You have been reading my mind; I have just dusted of my Chaos Warhound to update the thread now that the legs are fully articulated so what better way to get my feet whet again than to show the bottom of the toes which BTW are fully flexible...........

 

http://i.imgur.com/7kmJkny.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7kmJknyl.jpg

 

Incidentally my Chaos Warhound built (Sorely neglected until now) Will resume updating today.........

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/265840-blackadders-fw-chaos-warhound-build/page-4?do=findComment&comment=3888120

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