thamier Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 thanks alot BA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Down To Business: I opted for the same caliber weapon as on the resin Baneblade only the turret will house two of them. I chose this instead of increasing the bore of the cannon as to allow for working the two guns inside the turret would be cramped enough without increasing the diameter of the shells which I calculate would be on the order of 16 inches (40,64 cm) on a Baneblade. Guns of a larger caliber begin to take on a comical appearance and stretch credulity. http://i.imgur.com/jH2xUbU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jH2xUbUl.jpg I started by cutting rings of 1/2 inch plastic and filing and sanding them to a millimeter wide ring and slipping them on the 7/16 inch barrel I then cut and sanded two muzzle flash suppressors 5/8 inch long by 1/2 inch diameter (13,0 mm). I wrapped two thin sheets 0.020 inch plastic round the barrel base to thicken the breech end and finally I split a tube of 1/2 inch tubing for the base of the barrel. http://i.imgur.com/PBvXI02.jpg http://i.imgur.com/PBvXI02l.jpg All that is now required is the final step of the breech which again will be of 0.020 inch sheet styrene to bring the barrel to it's final thickness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Main Gun Barrels Phase 2 The main guns require a lot of stepping down from reinforced breach to barrel thickness otherwise the base looks too spindly. This is the best method I have come up with and it's rather simple and effective. Since all the reinforcements are not of the same thickness I vary between 0.040 tubing thickness and 0.020 sheet styrene for the different step downs which seems to add a bit of panache.;) http://i.imgur.com/NjcUI2s.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NjcUI2sl.jpg Once the sheet styrene is fully glued around the barrel the tailing can be trimmed off. It is advisable to leave a long tailing on the wrap until the final gluing so you don't end up with a flat ridge at the seam. http://i.imgur.com/Hndp61q.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Hndp61ql.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Storm Hammer Raison D'être: The French have a phrase for it; "a reason for being" and the main dual cannons of my version of the Stormhammer finally make this vehicle a force to be reckoned with (''A force with which to be reckoned'' for all the grammarians..) http://i.imgur.com/7r9vEaV.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7r9vEaVl.jpg Being of the same bore diameter as the Baneblade albeit slightly longer (6,3 mm) the main guns are, will be when completely detailed, copies of the original FW resin Baneblade. http://i.imgur.com/buJGCsz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/buJGCszl.jpg There was a bit of difficulty in making two reasonably similar cannon and mounting them in the mantlet (We have SDKFZ to thank for that amendment to the Blackadder's education.) http://i.imgur.com/gNMe2tP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gNMe2tPl.jpg So the aerial views dispensed with a ground level image rounds out today productivity........... http://i.imgur.com/axynYrs.jpg http://i.imgur.com/axynYrsl.jpg Next, the Howitzer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 It still amazes me how well you manage to get everything cut square and the details so spot on. I've been trying to do a few basics and seem to keep running into things not being quite square or a mm out regularly. To successfully keep up this standard is jaw droppingly good!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 It still amazes me how well you manage to get everything cut square and the details so spot on. I've been trying to do a few basics and seem to keep running into things not being quite square or a mm out regularly. To successfully keep up this standard is jaw droppingly good!!! Tools of the Trade: There has been a few questions regarding the amount of tools necessary to build my projects. I do have a lot of special tools that I need for work. I have been a mechanic all my adult life but to work on styrene models the material being so soft and malleable I find the most basic hand tools are sufficient to perform any of the work you see here. Aside from the tools pictured here I would add an X-acto razor saw and the small diameter X-acto knife with a goodly supply of the # 11 blades. When I get into the fine detail work I will break out my Jeweler's files as well but aside from that this is all I have used so far on the Thunderhawk. http://i.imgur.com/MVFO2l.jpg You can see that: A good quality combination square is essential. A good quality UTILITY KNIFE with a supply of sharp blades. A medium sized X-acto knife handle with #18 X-acto chisel blade. chisel. A wooden cutting board is essential as opposed to one of those plastic self healing cutting mats. That's just my preference but I'm a creature of habit. A 8" sized single cut file. Home made sanding blocks with coarse and 80 grit sandpaper adhered with double back tape A 6" scale graded in 1/64th inch and millimeters. A calculator Sharp Pencils I use Ambroid ProWeld thin plastic cement but as the brush is so clunky and thick and the bottle so easy to tip over I refill the Tamiya thin plastic cement bottle; it has a much more stable bottle and a very fine tipped brush. When the fluid level in the bottle gets too low I drop in a few glass marbles to raise the level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Self-Taught Tutorial: While we are on the subject this is a good opportunity to demonstrate how I cut clear styrene. The following method I use also for cutting white styrene up to 1,5 mm as well but being softer than 'clear' styrene white styrene does not require as many score cuts to make a separation. Clear styrene is rather more brittle than white styrene so you can save yourself a lot of grief by not trying to cut around corners or curves, chances are the sheet will shatter and always in the wrong way. Plan your work and cut only straight cuts; this may seem wasteful but much less so than failed angled or curved cuts. First I measured the width of the strip I required; in this case 17 MM. I scratched a small marker where I wanted the cut to be: http://i.imgur.com/BGEmQY5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/BGEmQY5l.jpg Employing my utility knife and a fairly accurate combination square I scored a fine line on the surface of the clear styrene. I would suggest a hard surface and not a foam cutting mat as shown here but the cutting mat shows the scored line better. http://i.imgur.com/B8RsdlW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/B8RsdlWl.jpg Once you have the scored line, you can either remove the square or chance deepening the score with repeated passes with the knife but bear in mind that each pass increases the possibility of slipping or cracking the styrene. I removed the square after the second pass and then after relied on the depth of the score to keep the knife from slipping. I made half a dozen more passes until the score was deep enough to attempt snapping the line. Try to snap the line gently and evenly apply pressure along the length of the cut instead of a localized point. If it seems you need undue pressure score the line deeper rather than applying more pressure which could shatter the sheet. http://i.imgur.com/e2268W3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/e2268W3l.jpg The result is a cleanly cut strip that will require little or no final sanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Thanks for the info. I have most of the kit and have been using a green mat. I'll try moving over to a wooden chopping board (I just happen to have replaced the one in the kitchen all of a sudden ;) ) and I need to make some sanding blocks. The chisel and large file are the only bits I'll need to buy. What does your more fine detail kit look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 What does your more fine detail kit look like? That is my fine detail kit except for a #11 Xacto tip and handle: http://xacto.com/Xacto/images/products/product%20large%20images/cutting-solutions/knives/_0042_X3201_A.jpg?ext=.jpg and a cheap set of fine needle files. https://www.google.com/search?q=needle+files&oq=needle+files&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Firewalker Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Impressive work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Excellent. I have the same thing but in swann and morton blades. :D Do you find the 80 grit fine enough or do you use finer stuff? I was looking at nail buffing sticks as a possible finishing sanding pad. Sorry for derailing the thread a bit with my questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 I have two diamond/steel nail buffing files each about six inches long including the handles one flat and one curved: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31kTvYX4iWL.jpg http://www.pudra.by/pic/catalog/sallyhansen/item15386_1.jpg That I use infrequently but usually I find the fine side of the "Farmer's" file sufficient. No problem with the questions, that's why I post WIP's; to share the techniques. I'm more than pleased to answer any questions about, "How do I.........?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andvarr A Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 You blackadder, are just creatively insane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
librisrouge Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 You blackadder, are just creatively insane Fixed that for you. I kid, I kid. Its inspiring stuff really. I'm saving up to purchase a titan soon(ish) and thread like this really inspire me to make the model look its best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Excellent. I have the same thing but in swann and morton blades. Surgical Blades! Seems like a bit of overkill in that usually the Xacto blade tips break off before the blades dull sufficiently to warrant replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Pushing The Limit: Wrapping the tubes is a good way to increase the diameter and/or wall thickness of Evergreen tubing and in this case 1/2 inch tubing is the largest available and I need almost 5/8ths. First I split and filled two lengths of 1/2 inch tubing but for the final breech reinforcement I needed a 0.040 inch step so I cold rolled a sheet of 1,0 MM styrene. One millimeter styrene is about the limit that I can cold roll, i.e. without resorting to a heat gun; I fastened the initial edge in the image below and allowed to dry overnight. http://i.imgur.com/1GVDQs3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1GVDQs3l.jpg This morning with the glue completely dry I prepared to file the glued edge on a bevel so the thickness is maintained when I glue the rest of the layer to the cylinder. http://i.imgur.com/pagDVxi.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pagDVxil.jpg Employing a "Farmer's file to make the bevel, I'm now ready to glue the tailing to the breech: http://i.imgur.com/HYayINB.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HYayINBl.jpg More to follow....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Excellent. I have the same thing but in swann and morton blades. Surgical Blades! Seems like a bit of overkill in that usually the Xacto blade tips break off before the blades dull sufficiently to warrant replacement. Lol ... I got the option to buy them almost at wholesale prices so thought why not. Helped out a local hobby shop while I was at it. He wanted to stock them but wouldn't shift enough to make it worthwhile. So I bumped up the order to a point where it became cost effective for him and really cheap for me. ;) That was a year or more ago and I've only just started to make a dent in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Not All Beer and Skittles: What I had intended was a demo of how to wrap and glue the tailing around the barrel but instead I am forced to show what to do when things go awry. Cold wrapping styrene is limited to 1,0 mm at best but this industrial quality styrene is not as forgiving as the more expensive 'Evergreen' brand material. I also made the mistake of using full strength cement instead of the old stuff that is less potent. As soon as I began wrapping the cement ate through the 0.040" sheeting and it developed a running crack and I had to make an impromptu clamp to repair the gaff. http://i.imgur.com/afja7yp.jpg http://i.imgur.com/afja7ypl.jpg All's well that ends well and I managed to save the work and finish the wrap without further incident albeit not quite the demo I had in mind. http://i.imgur.com/D7LnlrF.jpg http://i.imgur.com/D7LnlrFl.jpg Hence the title of this post..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Split and Fill: I received a few questions about what I meant by split and fill: Take a length of half inch tubing and split it lengthwise at one place on the circumference. The right side of the image above the scale shows what I mean.......... http://i.imgur.com/OeqARUL.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OeqARULl.jpg Slide the split half inch tube over an intact half inch base tube to add a 0.030" layer to the base tube. Naturally there will be a gap to fill as the cut will be spread about 0.188" which is then filled with either a strip of 0.030 styrene 0.188 inches wide or a segment of yet another piece of half inch tubing. http://i.imgur.com/Dn24SWq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Dn24SWql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gnLylbb.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gnLylbbl.jpg Meanwhile the Howitzer proceeds at a snail's pace............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Callow Youth: Back in the days when I was a callow youth I did so covet a FW Baneblade and to that end I started this scratchbuilt version. I also attempted to convert an Armorcast Baneblade (Note that it still sports the original Armorcast tank treads) model into the more aesthetically pleasing and highly detailed version of the Forgeworld model with the result seen below: http://i.imgur.com/qZtg7eo.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qZtg7eol.jpg The large caliber mortar on that model was my first attempt and building from scratch and I was extremely proud of that singular accomplishment. http://i.imgur.com/vAEkTlM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vAEkTlMl.jpg In those days I used straight pins for rivets and I wasn't all that comfortable at making thin cuts in styrene. http://i.imgur.com/TkQhyT5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TkQhyT5l.jpg Today I take such work routinely in stride without a second thought which goes to show that by continually pushing the envelope you will be amazed what you can accomplish. Go ahead and surprise yourself............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Poetic License: Might I be excused for a bit of poetic license for whilst the flavor of the Demolisher cannon is still intact, the oversized dimensions required a bit more detail. http://i.imgur.com/RDXTwow.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RDXTwowl.jpg The photos reveals that my work isn't very symmetrical but it will do. http://i.imgur.com/7les40Y.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7les40Yl.jpg Onward to the trunnion mount........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andvarr A Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Wow....just wow ....I should have stuck in better in technical and design class Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 They have schools for that now???? :D Thanks for the reply........ Truncated Trunnion Mounts: Or as I call it, "An exercise in perseverance." http://i.imgur.com/2xbwdq8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2xbwdq8l.jpg I started with five 1,0 MM discs (Same as the one pictured here) and glued them together with the plastic cement (red labeled tube above the disc. When dried I rough sanded the edge of the stack round. I then penciled a smaller circle so I had a line I could sand down to taking care not to cut into the larger diameter outer disc edge. Progressing from rough sandpaper, to file, to diamond emery file, until the bevel is smooth; perhaps 10 to 15 minutes of filing. I then gave the edge a coat of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and set aside to dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Blank Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Wow! Your work is tremendous and the techniques for wrapping the barrel has a very broad application to a wide variety of projects since, well, most things in the 40k universe tote some sort of gun. You do make all of this look easy, even if it's not - the end results are so stellar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Thanks for the reply, the work is relatively easy because of the modular nature of the components. Approaching the model as a series of small kits to be manufactured is much less daunting and it is much easier to lay aside and work on some other aspect of the vehicle than to tackle the project as a whole. Split and Fill: I received a few questions about what I meant by split and fill: Take a length of half inch tubing and split it lengthwise at one place on the circumference. The right side of the image above the scale shows what I mean.......... http://i.imgur.com/OeqARUL.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OeqARULl.jpg Slide the split half inch tube over an intact half inch base tube to add a 0.030" layer to the base tube. Naturally there will be a gap to fill as the cut will be spread about 0.188" which is then filled with either a strip of 0.030 styrene 0.188 inches wide or a segment of yet another piece of half inch tubing. http://i.imgur.com/Dn24SWq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Dn24SWql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gnLylbb.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gnLylbbl.jpg Meanwhile the Howitzer proceeds at a snail's pace............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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