The Judgment on Kadeth - Dr. Ruminahui's Slaaneshi CSM

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Here you go - here he is with my Emperor's Children characters, where he is an Exhaulted Lord with 3x pistols (sorrry about all the primed models - haven't started painting my EC yet)

 

 

And here he is with my most commonly used CSM foot characters, who are painted, and where he will be my Cypher stand-in.

 

 

Hope that helps on whether to frill or not to frill.

Edited May 24, 2025 by Dr_Ruminahui

[Teetengee]

I like the frill in the Emperor's children context, but less in the CSM one. Idk if that helps.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Your comment was helpful, and I agree.

 

That said, that kind of works for me.  In EC, the model is part of the base army and its more important that he fit in there.  In CSM as Cypher, he's an outsider hanging out with the rest of the warband, so the slightly different look works with that.

Edited May 25, 2025 by Dr_Ruminahui

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Finally finished doing up the background for my Slaaneshi Battle Goats over in the Killteam "Knives in the Shadows" painting challenge.  You can find it here:

[Tallarn Commander]

I found the background to be both engaging and hilarious, I especially liked the leader’s doubts, the goat names, and the anthropologist’s closing comment.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Thanks!  Yeah, having dubbed them Slaaneshi Battle Goats, I couldn't play it totally straight.  Incidentally, the shaman model actually does have an empty pistol holster despite not carrying a pistol, which brought to mind the character from Arms and the Man who stuffed his cartridge case with candies rather than ammunition - and giving bribes to have him accepted as wise seemed right for the tone I was going for.

 

Naming things what they are but in a different language has been a naming staple of mine for a while in RPGs and background fluff generation like this.  Plus, it seemed particularly on the nose for tongue in cheek tone I was going for.  Google translate is my friend. 

Edited May 31, 2025 by Dr_Ruminahui

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Sadly, I have to report an accidental blinding - he fell off a shelf a couple of weeks ago, and now his eye is loose in his chest cavity.

 

 

So I guess he has a mouth now instead?  Anyway, here's what he used to look like - which is actually the very first picture I ever posted in this thread:

 

 

Anyway, have to figure out if there is any way to fix him - it likely requires cutting a big hole in his chest, which I would like to avoid unless absolutely necessary.  Anyway, that's a job for "post-Call to Arms" me, not "frantically trying to finish me vow" me.

[gaurdian31]

Sorry to hear that, it is always a bummer when a model breaks like that especially a completed and painted one. The maw does look appropriately creepy for CSM at least.

[Tallarn Commander]

Perhaps it is a happy accident.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Thanks guys.  I wouldn't call it a "happy accident", though - I did the eyeball after considering the open mouth, and chose it because I preferred that look.  Plus, having it a mouth makes it too similar to my squidnaught, IMHO.  So, someday I may carve it open to fix it, but in the meantime it will have to do with a mouth instead of an eye.

[Volgon]

I'm so sorry @Dr_Ruminahui, that's a heartbreaker. It definitely had a unique look with the eye. I'm not sure how big the eye piece itself was but I do think you could possibly semi-fix it without cutting the chassis open. Whatever the choice it would certainly be finicky. 

[madlibrarian]

On 9/2/2025 at 5:32 AM, Dr_Ruminahui said:

Thanks guys.  I wouldn't call it a "happy accident", though - I did the eyeball after considering the open mouth, and chose it because I preferred that look.  Plus, having it a mouth makes it too similar to my squidnaught, IMHO.  So, someday I may carve it open to fix it, but in the meantime it will have to do with a mouth instead of an eye.

Get a paperclip / stiffer guitar wire, blob of superglue or tacky glue etc, tack it onto the eye and pull it back into position. If you have fine tip superglue could reglue easily enough with the tacky rod holding it in place?

[Volgon]

On 9/4/2025 at 2:24 AM, madlibrarian said:

Get a paperclip / stiffer guitar wire, blob of superglue or tacky glue etc, tack it onto the eye and pull it back into position. If you have fine tip superglue could reglue easily enough with the tacky rod holding it in place?

 

This was my first thought as well when reading through the post! I think it can be done.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Thanks, @madlibrarian and @Volgon for the suggestion.  That said, given the fiddliness of the proceedure and the difficulty of applying glue to the surfaces I want to stick together (both of which are inside the model), I'm not sure I would get a solid enough bond that I wouldn't just knock the eye loose again at some point in the future.  As such, I'm more inclined to open the thing up, glue it back in place and then reinforce the join to try to prevent a reoccurance.

 

That said, I'm not currently playing my CSM (as I'm currently working on and trying out my new EC army), so there's no hurry for me to do so - maybe it will be a project to work on over the winter if I run out of primed models to paint.

[Teetengee]

maybe a more flexible cement instead of superglue plus blustuff on a stick to draw it in?

superglue is very shock vulnerable in ways some other adhesives aren't, which might help

not sure if you could use a vacuum seal as well once it's in place, to pull it tight to the glue (not sure what I'd use to create the vacuum though)

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Painted my Cypher stand in:

 

 

The concept was originally as the "meme" 3-pistol Exultant conversion, which I decided to convert mostly for the LOLs - then decided he would actually make a pretty good Cypher if I gave him a hooded head and a sheathed sword.  When not being used as Cypher, he'll probably see some play in my EC army - for now, as a twin screamer Lord K until the actual GW model becomes available for sale again, possibly as an Exultant after that... that's the main reason why I went with the split colour scheme with my EC's purple.

 

The model is more static than I might like (more Last Man Standing than Hard Boiled, for those familiar with those movies), but I'm still pretty happy with him.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

While building some more Emperor's Children, I opened up my combat patrol and reminded myself that I have a second Lord Exultant model.  Not wanting to have 2 identical (or identical except weapon and head swaps) characters in the same army, I decided to build it for my Chaos Space Marines instead. 

 

 

Pretty happy with the result.  The model is pretty stock (I cut the tassels off), just with a few parts swaps - left shoulder pad, backpack and icon from the legionaires kit, hammer made from the Chosen power axe with the head replaced by the head and shaft from an Old World chaos warrior hammer, and the head from the AoS chaos warrior kit.

 

I've been wanting another thunderhammer/plasma lord for that force, and again didn't want to double up on the GW model, so I'm happy to have this one now.

[Tallarn Commander]

Nice Thunder Hammer!

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Thanks!  I find that most GW hammers don't fit the slanneshi aesthetic of finer, more curved and more elaborate weapons, and felt this was a pretty good compromise.  I really lucked out finding the chosen power axe gripped near the head - the fantasy hammer really doesn't have a long enough shaft on its own to make a convincing demon/thunder hammer, and splicing shafts from two weapons is kind of nightmare, in that its very difficult to get them straight.  Using the chosen shaft at least let me go into the build knowing that everything from the hand down was all lined up, which made matching the portion of the shaft attached to the hammer much more doable (though still fiddly).

Edited February 15 by Dr_Ruminahui

[Dr_Ruminahui]

I've finished my demon prince - must say I'm pretty happy with him.  This is a bit of a milestone for me - I now have 6000 points in painted models.

 

 

I did him quartered, with my EC magenta and a metallic purple that I intend to use for my raptors - the main reason it took so long to paint this guy was it took forever for me to find and decide on a metallic purple I liked for the raptors and him.  This scheme was chosen (like with my Cypher stand in) so that he would look like he belongs when I use him in either force.

 

Here are some pictures of his back (I did the reiklander wash for all the flesh except the inside of the wings, and I didn't want to make that portion of the model too dark) with each of the other weapon options - I magnetized them in case they ever become separate options again.  The weapon options don't really show up well from the front, so I figured this was the best way of showing them.

 

 

And here is a picture with the old demon prince - the new one is a huge glow up.

 

 

Once I figure out how I want to highlight the magenta, I'll come back and highlight the armour, but for now he's done.

Edited March 7 by Dr_Ruminahui

[Tallarn Commander]

He looks great! What was the base coat color on the inside of the wings? The Reiklander Wash looks nice with that color.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Thanks, @Tallarn Commander - the base colour is Ungor Flesh.  For the bit with the reiklander wash, it also has a wash of my magenta colour .  And I agree, the 3 together look nice together as demon flesh - I've used it on all my demon engines and stuff like my possessed.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Next build on the plate for my Heretic Astartes is a conversion project I've had sitting on my desk for about a year.

 

 

As weird as it sounds, I'm kitbashing a vindicator with a rhino - a 2nd ed vindicator with the current rhino.  I hope to use as many of the metal pieces as possible, then will have to work out how I do the front shield/bulldozer and if I do a rear grabber claw like the current vindicator model.  Oh, and it will get trim and such.

[Dr_Ruminahui]

Well, this is probably going to have way more pictures than is strictly necessary, but I do like to over explain my kitbashes, so here goes.

 

 

Back plate glued on fine - I didn't bother gluing on the original ramp, but just glued it directly over the hole,

 

 

Top plate was slightly too wide, but fortunately the notches for the hinges on the rhino kit were just the right size, so it was just a matter of widening the rest of the hole to the same width as the hinge portion.  This also made a nice lip for the plate to rest on.

 

 

Here's the top plate - fits perfectly now, asides from it being a bit shorter than the rhino top hatch.

 

 

I then plasticarded over all the larger holes and depressions I didn't want.  I also built back the front raised area to accommodate the metal top section, which extends back further than the raised hatch structure on the current kit.

I then glued on the front gun plate, which I had bent slightly with some pliers so it better conformed to the geometry of the newer rhino kit.

 

 

After gluing the gun hydraulics in place, I found I needed to raise the top portion to make it work, so I cut out a plasticard riser.  The photo also shows a gap in created by the shape of the metal original.

 

 

I glued on tracks that I had ordered a few years ago from a third party, but kind of botched it for one of them, which I repaired by filling in the resulting gap with greenstuff - as its on the bottom of the model, that's all that's warranted.

 

 

The current rhino is wider than the original, leaving a gap on either side between the gun plate and the track portions (which you can see on the left).  On the right is how I filled that gap - plasticard on top, greenstuff on bottom (well, the greenstuff isn't in this picture, but is in the one below).

 

 

Here is it is from the front with both gaps filled, as well as other gaps between the various components.

 

 

And here it is from the side.

 

Okay - decision time.  Basically, I have to decide how best to mount the side plates, and would appreciate your opinions.

 

Option 1(a) - Sticking off the side, both plates together

Option 1(b) - sticking off the side, plates apart.  I would then need to fill the gap between the plates.  I don't have a picture of this - but like below, but seperated with the space between filled with plasticard/greenstuff.

 

 

Option 2(a) - resting on the top, plates together.  Don't have a picture of this, but like below but together.

Option 2(b) - resting on the top, plates apart.   As per the above, I would then fill the space between the plates.

Incidentally, resting on top like this is how they are on the original vindicator model.

 

 

Whatever option I go with, I'll need to use plasticard to extend the plates downwards and to cover gaps on the sides (or behind the top portion if top mounted).

 

That above photos also show how I put plasticard on the sides of the top portions.  Please ignore the top hatch in  - its just a place holder from another model I have there to make sure I attach the magnet in the right place (to hold the eventual hatch).

 

So let me know which side plate option you like best.  Once that is done, its on to doing the trim and detailing, including bolts on some of the now flat plasticard pieces shown above.

Edited March 16 by Dr_Ruminahui

[RolandTHTG]

Looking good Dr! The plasticard blends the new and old together nicely. 

I think either of the resting on top looks (2a or 2b) would be fine. I'm leaning towards 2b, just because the battle damage doesn't continue across the metal plates.